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7 Series - E38 (1995 - 2001)

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  #1  
Old 11-01-2013, 05:21 PM
watersnake watersnake is offline
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Location: mudgee
 
Join Date: Nov 2013
Posts: 8
Mein Auto: bmw 730i/l
Slow auto kick in

My 1995 730i/l auto takes a long time to kick in once the drive gear is selected . Is there any way this can be adjusted or is the transmission kaput . once it takes off all is fine.
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  #2  
Old 11-01-2013, 06:14 PM
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ebida3 ebida3 is offline
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Location: High Point, NC
 
Join Date: May 2010
Posts: 555
Mein Auto: 2001 740iL
Classic tranny slip. I would say replace fluid as a final 'Hail Mary' save in a last chance attempt to salvage it, but the damage usually is done. Tranny time.
And I'm not referring to dressing as a chick either!
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  #3  
Old 11-04-2013, 06:28 AM
ou18 ou18 is offline
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Location: Boca Raton FL
 
Join Date: Sep 2010
Posts: 804
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Mein Auto: 1997 740 IL
+1 on replacing the fluid... How many miles are on the car. The process isnt terrible...Messy, but not terrible.

here is a link to the bmw manuals tranny oil change for your model....

http://bmw.workshop-manuals.com/7_Se...ex.php?id=1085
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  #4  
Old 11-05-2013, 01:59 AM
Podmore Podmore is offline
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Location: Adelaide South Australia
 
Join Date: Feb 2008
Posts: 151
Mein Auto: 2001 BMW 735i
Slow engagement is usually due to either leaking valve body seals or sticking valves, worn clutch packs, or all of the above (low trans oil pressure leads to inadequate clamping pressure on the clutch plates, allowing them to slip excessively and hence wear). There is no adjustment possible - wear is automatically compensated for up to the point where there is no compensation left.

Take a sample of the trans fluid (loosen the oil cooler line and allow a bit of fluid to bleed into a clean jar). If it is black or smells burnt, generally there will be little to be achieved by replacing 12 litres or so of expensive fluid and attempting to flush the problem away. Any metal flakes in the fluid will indicate that the clutch packs are toast and a rebuild is in order.

Unfortunately here in Oz (and especially out there in Mudgee) ZF gearbox specialists are a bit thin on the ground. Expect to pay upwards of $5,000 for a rebuild which includes the 'A' clutch drum (a known weak point in the ZF 5HP24 but you probably have the 5HP30 which is, I understand, more robust and not prone to this particular failure where the circlip retaining sprags break off), all the clutch packs, a valve body rebuild (seals and 'o' rings), gaskets, 'F' clutch piston and various other bits and bobs (and having the torque converter split and cleaned).
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