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E60 (2004 - 2010)
BMW 5-Series (E60 chassis) was first seen in the Unites States in the fall of 2003 with a 2004 Model Year designation. The E60 is now available as a 528i, 528xi, 535i, 535xi, 550i and a 535xi sports wagon! -- View the E60 Wiki

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  #26  
Old 08-29-2012, 06:09 PM
Kalil147 Kalil147 is offline
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Thank you very much. I am replacing my Water pump. Hopefully, everything works out. Thanks again for your tip
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  #27  
Old 08-30-2012, 06:53 AM
mikeyoung mikeyoung is offline
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Mine went at 167K if I recall. Replace all Hoses at same time. You will usually have some warning on the E60 as they have metal impellers in the pump its normally the seals that start to fail and you get overheating and loss of coolant issues. The ones that seem to go catastrophic are the 3 series with the plastic impellers.
For longevity in automatics..change the trans fluid !
100K is just getting broken in for a 545 !
you next milestone will probably be the alternator bracket seal...thats a good one..that hit me at around 190K.. should be hitting the 200K mark next month and installing another set of plugs at this point im just seeing how long it lasts.
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  #28  
Old 08-30-2012, 08:35 AM
bimmerfan52 bimmerfan52 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mikeyoung View Post
Mine went at 167K if I recall. Replace all Hoses at same time. You will usually have some warning on the E60 as they have metal impellers in the pump its normally the seals that start to fail and you get overheating and loss of coolant issues. The ones that seem to go catastrophic are the 3 series with the plastic impellers.
For longevity in automatics..change the trans fluid !
100K is just getting broken in for a 545 !
you next milestone will probably be the alternator bracket seal...thats a good one..that hit me at around 190K.. should be hitting the 200K mark next month and installing another set of plugs at this point im just seeing how long it lasts.
Good to hear your 545i has lasted a long time. I love mine and hope to put many miles on it.

I changed my water pump recently at 85K (preventive maint) and I think it was the original. It had a plastic impeller.

I was lucky in that just before I bought my 545i the previous owner had a leak in the lower timing case cover, so under a third party warranty a dealer pulled the engine and all gaskets on the entire top of the engine were changed, including the upper and lower case cover gaskets, alternator bracket gasket, upper and lower oil sump gaskets, head gaskets, water pipe, valley pan gasket and valve cover gaskets. The challenge now is to keep those gaskets as fresh as I can with frequent oil changes.

You're right on the auto trans - I drained and refilled twice at 80K and will continue doing so every 50K.
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  #29  
Old 08-30-2012, 09:45 AM
Kalil147 Kalil147 is offline
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Yea. I have no warning lights coming on what so ever. My 545i is making a screeching sound in the mornings, it goes away after about 5 minutes. Well I am hoping it is the water pump because I already purchased it. Other than that, I replaced the alternator, alternator bracket gasket, valve cover gaskets, oil sensor plug, battery (original stealer), software update, thermostat. I only have 72k miles on mine.
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  #30  
Old 08-30-2012, 10:49 AM
bimmerfan52 bimmerfan52 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kalil147 View Post
Yea. I have no warning lights coming on what so ever. My 545i is making a screeching sound in the mornings, it goes away after about 5 minutes. Well I am hoping it is the water pump because I already purchased it. Other than that, I replaced the alternator, alternator bracket gasket, valve cover gaskets, oil sensor plug, battery (original stealer), software update, thermostat. I only have 72k miles on mine.
Try one of these to help zero in on the noise before you pull out the pump. You'll want to do the water pump anyway eventually as preventive maintenance, but if you can squeeze another 10K miles that wouldn't be bad.

http://www.harborfreight.com/mechani...ope-41966.html

Might want to check your alternator (can't believe how many new alternators are put in that have noisy bearings), and serpentine belt tensioner.

Some of the auto stores will check a water pump for free. It might also be worth having it checked before installation. If it is a squeeker then you can send it back for another.
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  #31  
Old 08-30-2012, 06:54 PM
drcomp drcomp is offline
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I just purchased mine at 90k. I overheated the first weekend I got her. Was forced to do the w/p and thermostat. A month later an ignition coil went, had that replaced as well as plugs. Indy said plugs were really nasty and suggested doing all coils.... I'm approaching 94 right now and she drives like a dream. I haven't heard any mention of trans/diff fluids. Is it possible you all are driving manuals? That will be my next service. I don't think I'm waiting til 100k. Glad to hear some of us are committed to driving well into the 100 - 150k range
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  #32  
Old 08-30-2012, 09:17 PM
bimmerfan52 bimmerfan52 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by drcomp View Post
I just purchased mine at 90k. I overheated the first weekend I got her. Was forced to do the w/p and thermostat. A month later an ignition coil went, had that replaced as well as plugs. Indy said plugs were really nasty and suggested doing all coils.... I'm approaching 94 right now and she drives like a dream. I haven't heard any mention of trans/diff fluids. Is it possible you all are driving manuals? That will be my next service. I don't think I'm waiting til 100k. Glad to hear some of us are committed to driving well into the 100 - 150k range
I bought mine at 76K and the trans pan had been replaced at 74K so I thought I was OK. But I had heard of dealers draining the pan when doing repairs and then putting the drained transmission fluid back into the pan and then topping it off. I thought, no way ... they wouldn't be that stupid. But when I had my car in at a dealer in Phoenix for extended warranty work I asked the service rep and he confirmed that they do keep the drained trans fluid and then put it back in. Of course these are the same idiots that recommend 15K engine oil drain intervals.

Since then I did a trans drain and fill at 79K miles and will be doing another at 85K. Then two drain and fills every 50K in the future.

I did the rear diff fluid at 78K and it came out black. I will do it every 75k from now on.
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  #33  
Old 08-31-2012, 09:47 PM
drcomp drcomp is offline
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i can't believe the dealer would do that..... i'm making my appointment this coming week!! from a reputable indy of course. his charge is $650 whereas another guy wanted 1600, and another 1100 wtf??? not to change course of thread but if the mechatronic sleeve isn't leaking should i still have them replace?
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  #34  
Old 08-31-2012, 10:54 PM
bimmerfan52 bimmerfan52 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by drcomp View Post
i can't believe the dealer would do that..... i'm making my appointment this coming week!! from a reputable indy of course. his charge is $650 whereas another guy wanted 1600, and another 1100 wtf??? not to change course of thread but if the mechatronic sleeve isn't leaking should i still have them replace?
What is he charging $650 for?

The first level of service is a drain and fill, which should be done in two parts (the torque converter retains fluid and not all can be drained). Drain and refill once. Drive a week or two and then drain and fill again, replacing about 6 quarts each time so that about 90% of the trans fluid is replaced.

Next level would be replacing the pan (which has a built-in non-removable filter) during the first drain and fill and then doing a second drain and fill in a few weeks.

Third level would be pan, two drain and fills and the sealing sleeve. If upon examination the sleeve looks OK then replacing it would be purely preventive maintenance and would save labor over changing it later. However, if it leaks later the pan doesn't have to be dropped and relatively little fluid is lost changing it.

You can see from link below that a pan kit plus 6 additional quarts of fluid is total around $360 (plus shipping).
http://www.thectsc.com/index.php?p=p...=187&parent=43
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  #35  
Old 09-01-2012, 06:57 AM
Kalil147 Kalil147 is offline
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Thanks again for the info. I just replaced the water pump on my 545. And FML! It was a pain in the ass!! I was having a lot of trouble putting the ac belt back on the pulley! But finally got it fixed. There was play on the water pump pulley. But now it's all back together and running strong. Last project is the control arm bushings. But I don't know if I will be able to replace those myself
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  #36  
Old 09-01-2012, 08:59 AM
bimmerfan52 bimmerfan52 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kalil147 View Post
Thanks again for the info. I just replaced the water pump on my 545. And FML! It was a pain in the ass!! I was having a lot of trouble putting the ac belt back on the pulley! But finally got it fixed. There was play on the water pump pulley. But now it's all back together and running strong. Last project is the control arm bushings. But I don't know if I will be able to replace those myself
You are right, the water pump itself is a PITA, and having to pull off the harmonic balancer so you can get to the last bolt adds insult to injury. I got a SES light after I finished it up so I have to read some codes and see if maybe I have an intake or vacuum leak.

However, I would replace two water pumps in trade for having to replace one alternator. The space is very tight, the alternator is heavy and getting the alignment right so you don't strip the mounting bolts is dicey.

The thrust bearing replacement looks involved. Luckily the previous owner of my car did his just before he sold it.
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  #37  
Old 09-03-2012, 11:19 AM
Damon54 Damon54 is offline
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I am going to be beyond pissed if I find that the dealer recycled my tranny fluid.
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  #38  
Old 09-03-2012, 01:27 PM
bimmerfan52 bimmerfan52 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Damon54 View Post
I am going to be beyond pissed if I find that the dealer recycled my tranny fluid.
There is that old tradition that if the transmission is too old then putting new fluid in will disturb the grit that keeps the transmission from slipping.

Also, they can keep up the mantra that it is a "lifetime fluid" and not have to pay for new fluid, especially under warranty.

I wouldn't have believed they were using the old fluid either until I heard it directly from the SA at a dealer in Phoenix, a guy who has been with them 12 years.

I believe this practice, and 15,000 mile engine oil drain intervals are going to catch up with them eventually, affecting their product reputation.
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  #39  
Old 09-04-2012, 06:43 PM
drcomp drcomp is offline
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thank you for this info i never knew there are 3 different tiers for replacing the trans fluids. I guess I should ask more questions. How long does it take to basically drop the pan, drain and replace fluid? And does this process service the differential as well?
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  #40  
Old 09-04-2012, 08:42 PM
bimmerfan52 bimmerfan52 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by drcomp View Post
thank you for this info i never knew there are 3 different tiers for replacing the trans fluids. I guess I should ask more questions. How long does it take to basically drop the pan, drain and replace fluid? And does this process service the differential as well?
It is an involved process to drop the pan. First the pan is drained. Then depending upon the model, exhaust hangers usually need to be removed in order to remove the pan. Pan bolts are then removed and the pan dropped (discarded if being replaced for new filter).

The gasket surface needs to be cleaned and then the new pan (or old pan if reused) and gasket held in place and 21 bolts installed and torqued in a strict sequence so the gasket is properly compressed.

Then an initial fill is done, the engine started and a second fill done until fluid runs from the fill hole. The trans fluid temperature is then brought to between 40c and 50C (while the engine is running) and when just a thin stream of fluid is escaping the fill hole the fill plug is replaced.

The fluid is brought to a lower temperature (so fluid can be handled without burns) in order to allow the fluid's coefficient of expansion to raise the level of the fluid to the bottom of the fill hole. The fluid under higher actual operating temperatures raises even further, and having an exact level prevents an overfill from causing damage to the transmission (a common failure mode where transmission fluid can be added via a transmission dip stick neck).

Then exhaust hangers, heat shields, splash pan, etc. are replaced.

I have never inquired as to the standard hours for a dealer, but my guess is they would charge between 3 and 4 hours labor. An Indy could probably do it in 2 to 3 hours total.

Again, because it is standard procedure for some dealers to put the used fluid back into the transmission, if the objective is to refresh the trans fluid then fresh fluid must be demanded, a second drain and fill must be done to put about 90% new fluid in the transmission.

The differential fluid replacement is a separate process and is very easy to do - if you work slowly and carefully it can be done in about an hour.
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  #41  
Old 09-05-2012, 07:27 AM
drcomp drcomp is offline
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wow great info thank you
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  #42  
Old 11-13-2013, 04:42 PM
68ice 68ice is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WJGreer View Post
^ Two great, well-informed responses so far. I'm surprised, frankly. I don't find a lot of people on this forum to be long-term-hold types, and I think you're going to get a lot of "OH-MY-GOD-GET-RID-OF-IT-WHILE-YOU-STILL-CAN" responses from people talking out of their asses.

I am in the same position as you. 70K on my 545. Runs like butter, and I'm trying to decide how to handle the maintenance for the next 30 to 40K miles. Premptively replacing the cooling system is an interesting idea. I wonder how much something like that would cost.
I have an 05 545i,bought it used so far i have had to replace water pump,alternator,front and rear brakes and now valve cover gasket & spark plugs, water pump was $500,alternator was under my ex-warranty and valve cover gasket will b $500, brakes i did myself only paid $120 for brakes and sensors.
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  #43  
Old 11-15-2013, 09:16 AM
Cattani Cattani is offline
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I replaced my WP this past weekend. Bought the GRAF one from PartsGeek. I got it put in in about 2.5 hours or so. Once I did, I started the car and it was squealing really badly. Took off the belt and pulley and re-installed. Same noise. Thinking it is a bad bearing inside the WP...?
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  #44  
Old 11-15-2013, 09:35 AM
schpenxel schpenxel is offline
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Sounds like it--did you replace any of the idler pulleys or tensioner at the same time? I'd pull the belt off and see how each thing turns first
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  #45  
Old 11-15-2013, 10:03 AM
bimmerfan52 bimmerfan52 is offline
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It happens that sometimes they come out of the box with noisy bearings.

I bought an off brand when I changed my water pump (Beck Arnley) so I made sure I spun it with a drill before I installed it. Seems to be OK after about 15 months.

The Beck Arnley thermostat I installed at the same time failed in a week with a burned out heater coil and I had to change that out, but the thermostat is simple to swap out compared to all the crap you have to pull out to do the water pump.
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  #46  
Old 11-15-2013, 11:19 AM
BayAreaE60530i BayAreaE60530i is offline
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Im at 135k miles and did my cooling system as preventative maintenance about 5000 miles ago. Replaced water pump, thermostat, hoses, and expansion tank. Dont want to risk over heating at all. Car is running great. Do your spark plugs sooner than later.
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