Welcome to Bimmerfest -- The #1 Online Community for BMW related information! Please enjoy the discussion forums below and share your experiences with the 200,000 current, new and past BMW owners. The forums are broken out by car model and into other special interest sections such as BMW European Delivery and a special forum to voice your questions to the many BMW dealers on the site to assist our members!

Please follow the links below to help get you started!

Go Back   Bimmerfest - BMW Forums > BMW Model Discussions > 5 Series > E39 (1997 - 2003)

E39 (1997 - 2003)
The BMW 5-Series (E39 chassis) was introduced in the United States as a 1997 model year car and lasted until the 2004 when the E60 chassis was released. The United States saw several variations including the 525i, 528i, 530i and 540i. -- View the E39 Wiki

Reply
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
  #1  
Old 11-10-2013, 10:59 PM
mpx mpx is offline
Registered User
Location: Columbus,OH
 
Join Date: Nov 2013
Posts: 10
Mein Auto: Explorer
Question Engine diagnostic - where to start?

So I entered the BMW world with a project. I'm happy about that, I enjoy working on a car and learning. I'm excited that the car is this 528i.

It's an 97 528i (03/96) that I don't know anything about. The inner belt was shredded, probably because of lack of maintenance, as the last few owners seemed busy to get rid of it rather than maintain it. The engine turns but doesn't start. With ignition on there seems like a pump cycling somewhere under the air duct. It hums for a few minutes, stops, then whirs again. There are 4 codes stored:
P0500 Vehicle Speed Sensor Malfunction
P0505 Idle Air Control System
P1421 Secondary Air Bank 1
P1423 Secondary Air Bank 2

When the belt breaks and the water pump stops running, does the engine stop to prevent overheating? How can I estimate at this point the damage to the engine? I remember one post mentioning that '96 models would be less likely to have a warped head, another post recommending an engine swap over a repair if the heads are warped. The engine oil is dark but seems ok.

The 2 last codes seem to involve the exhaust check valve or secondary air pump. If these were bad, would they prevent the engine from starting? Where do you suggest I start?

Thank you.

Last edited by mpx; 11-10-2013 at 11:03 PM.
Reply With Quote
Advertisement
  #2  
Old 11-11-2013, 12:54 AM
mjalloul11's Avatar
mjalloul11 mjalloul11 is offline
Officially Welcomed to the 'Fest
Location: Lebanon
 
Join Date: Apr 2012
Posts: 784
Mein Auto: 1996 528i 1999 MB c240
The sound you hear is probably the ICV , It buzez with ignition on. You have the iron block but even that can get the head warped, take the plugs off and see if water is present. Air pump does not stop the engine, it makes for a rough one. Start with the basic, AIR,FUEL and SPARK.
Reply With Quote
  #3  
Old 11-11-2013, 05:23 AM
Fudman's Avatar
Fudman Fudman is offline
Officially Welcomed to the 'Fest
Location: Sudbury, MA
 
Join Date: Apr 2007
Posts: 6,296
Mein Auto: '02 530i Sport auto
Ignore the SAP for now. It has no impact on engine performance. It throws a code when it doesn't function because it is an emissions system. However, if your car does not start, you have much bigger issues. If your car had overheated badly, then the engine is toast. Belt failure does not cause the engine to stop so overheating is a definite possibility. +! on above. When it doesn't start, check for air, fuel and spark. THEN check the head gasket and then fix the SAP.
Reply With Quote
  #4  
Old 11-11-2013, 06:10 AM
JimLev JimLev is offline
Officially Welcomed to the 'Fest
Location: MA
 
Join Date: Dec 2003
Posts: 3,754
Mein Auto: 540/6, S60 Volvo, Tribeca
Do you know when the last time it was running? Was it weeks ago or years ago? Do you hear the fuel pump running when you turn the key to position 2? It will only run foe 2-3 seconds so you need to have someone turn the key while you have your head stuck in the trunk listening for it.
Have you tried spraying some starter fluid into the intake manifold?
__________________

2000 540/6 Slightly tweeked...everywhere
Reply With Quote
  #5  
Old 11-11-2013, 07:48 AM
bluebee's Avatar
bluebee bluebee is offline
Seek to understand,^Value
Location: San Jose, California
 
Join Date: Mar 2008
Posts: 21,806
Mein Auto: 02 BMW 525i M54 auto 130K
Gas, air, spark, compression, and finally timing, in that order (as noted above).
__________________
Please read the suggested threads, where the best always add value to those threads, either by pictures or by descriptions, so the next person with the same problem stands on your shoulders.
See also: E39 Bestlinks & How to easily find what you need
Reply With Quote
  #6  
Old 11-11-2013, 10:05 AM
edjack edjack is offline
Officially Welcomed to the 'Fest
Location: San Jose, CA
 
Join Date: May 2007
Posts: 9,518
Mein Auto: '97 540i 6 speed
I believe your engine has a Schrader valve somewhere on the injector manifold. Get a fuel pressure tester at Harbor Freight, and measure it. S/b 50+ psi.
__________________


Ed in San Jose '97 540i 6 speed aspensilber over aubergine leather. Build date 3/97. Golden Gate Chapter BMW CCA Nr 62319.
Reply With Quote
  #7  
Old 11-11-2013, 10:46 AM
poolman poolman is offline
Officially Welcomed to the 'Fest
Location: martinsville va
 
Join Date: Nov 2005
Posts: 3,997
Mein Auto: 525i station wagon
Check all the vacuum ports and hoses--most of your code problems can and will occur because of vacuum leaks--haveing a big one can also keep the engine from starting.
Reply With Quote
  #8  
Old 11-11-2013, 11:16 PM
mpx mpx is offline
Registered User
Location: Columbus,OH
 
Join Date: Nov 2013
Posts: 10
Mein Auto: Explorer
Question update #1

Thank you for the quick replies.

The car hasn't run in over a year, at least. The title history shows the previous transfer last year with the same odometer reading. I can't tell if there were any attempts to repair it, I would say there were none.

I took the MAF sensor out and I sprayed starting fluid in the remaining segment of the duct. No spark, but it didn't seem to crank fast enough, either, I'll try again with a better battery.
I took out spark plugs #1 and #2. I smell gas and they are fouled, based on charts I'd say dry carbon. At 160k, they seem to be the original Bosch F8LDCR.

How can I check the crank/cam position sensors, if they are next? I see many posts to read through, please let me know what you think I should do next. I'm trying to go through all your suggestions and I'll update the thread.
Reply With Quote
  #9  
Old 11-11-2013, 11:28 PM
mjalloul11's Avatar
mjalloul11 mjalloul11 is offline
Officially Welcomed to the 'Fest
Location: Lebanon
 
Join Date: Apr 2012
Posts: 784
Mein Auto: 1996 528i 1999 MB c240
Only the crank sensor is important but it will throw a code. You seem to be getting fuel, next is spark! Fresh plugs and a good battery is next i think.
Reply With Quote
  #10  
Old 11-15-2013, 11:52 AM
mpx mpx is offline
Registered User
Location: Columbus,OH
 
Join Date: Nov 2013
Posts: 10
Mein Auto: Explorer
After many other hours spent reading this forum, I found the numerous posts about engine diagnosis. I want to thank you for the patience you had to answer my questions, even when similar threads were already available.

I purchased a new battery and checked that I have spark. I have fuel, I can hear the fuel pump running when I short the pins on the relay ( and the relay is good) and I always have gas squirting whenever I release the Schrader valve on the fuel rail after I crank the engine. But the engine wouldn't start even with starting fluid.

I only have compression in cylinder 6. I measured: 1(30),2(20),3&4 almost zero,5(30) and 6(120)psi. I figured the cylinders must have been flooded on several occasions while cranked so I added some transmission oil in each cylinder. That increased compression by at least 20 psi in all except for the middle ones. #6 increased to 200psi.

Given that the engine most likely overheated when the serpentine belt broke, should I start shopping around for a new engine after what I found out? But I should still take the heads off and see what I find, right? The engine should have the iron block, what is the best scenario I can hope for and what special tools would I need?
Reply With Quote
  #11  
Old 11-15-2013, 11:21 PM
bluebee's Avatar
bluebee bluebee is offline
Seek to understand,^Value
Location: San Jose, California
 
Join Date: Mar 2008
Posts: 21,806
Mein Auto: 02 BMW 525i M54 auto 130K
Quote:
Originally Posted by mpx View Post
should I start shopping around for a new engine
These threads have been prepared to help people with similar problems once an engine has overheated to the point where the question needs to be asked ...

- Summary advice to provide users who suspect a major engine repair due to overheating (1) (2) (3) (4) & how to test an engine for a blown head gasket, cracked heads, a warped block, stripped head bolt threads, cam seizures, contaminated bearings, coolant hydrolock, or piston, ring, or valve damage (1) (2) & what are the major factors in deciding whether to rebuild the engine, replace the engine, or sell the car (1) & a DIY for replacing the I6 M54 head gasket (1) (2) & replacing the V8 M62TU head gasket (1) & why these engines are so prone to heat-related damage in the first place (1) & welding the crack between cylinder #3 and the water jacket on the exhaust side (1) & what engine swaps are most recommended (1) (2) (3) & where to obtain a new or rebuilt head (1) replacement short block or long block (1) (2) & how to lift & remove the engine (1) & the most recent real-world results from the last 50 people faced with similar blown engine problems from which this advice came from (1) (2) (3) (4) (5) (6) (7) (8) (9) (10) (11) (12) (13) (14) (15) (16) (17) (18) (19) (20) (21) (22) (23) (24) (25) (26) (27) (28) (29) (30) (31) (32) (33) (34) (35) (36) (37) (38) (39) (40) (41) (42) (43) (44) (45) (46) (47) (48) (49) (50)
__________________
Please read the suggested threads, where the best always add value to those threads, either by pictures or by descriptions, so the next person with the same problem stands on your shoulders.
See also: E39 Bestlinks & How to easily find what you need
Reply With Quote
Reply

Bookmarks


Forum Navigation
Go Back   Bimmerfest - BMW Forums > BMW Model Discussions > 5 Series > E39 (1997 - 2003)
Today's Posts Search
Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is On



Forum Jump


All times are GMT -7. The time now is 09:22 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.7
Copyright ©2000 - 2014, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.
© 2001-2011 performanceIX, Inc. All Rights Reserved .: guidelines .:. privacy .:. terms