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Go Back   Bimmerfest - BMW Forums > BMW Model Discussions > 3 Series / 4 Series > E30 (1982 - 1993)

E30 (1982 - 1993)
God's Chariot. The E30 was produced primarily from 1982 through 1991. The cabriolet was the one exception which was produced through 1993.

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  #26  
Old 12-13-2013, 06:03 PM
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hornhospital hornhospital is offline
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Re: Calling all E30 people!

You mean the pump doesn't stop RUNNING until you turn it off. You've got something wired wrong or the wrong relay. And there's WAY too much draw on that circuit if it's blowing 15amp fuses. Figure that out before you go any further.

You need to check the fuel pressure. It should be 35-42 at idle. 45+ when revved, and well above that (~90) if you clamp off the return line with the ENGINE OFF and the pump running

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Last edited by hornhospital; 12-13-2013 at 06:06 PM.
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  #27  
Old 12-14-2013, 02:34 PM
DailyDrivted DailyDrivted is offline
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I will get a fuel pressure check gauge today, thank you for the help. Also, I know this is very frowned upon but what if I took a wire with an inline fuse and ran it from the fuel pump, to the battery and have it controlled with a toggle switch?..
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  #28  
Old 12-14-2013, 02:35 PM
DailyDrivted DailyDrivted is offline
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Also. What would cause so much draw on that circuit?..
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  #29  
Old 12-14-2013, 08:29 PM
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hornhospital hornhospital is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DailyDrivted View Post
I will get a fuel pressure check gauge today, thank you for the help. Also, I know this is very frowned upon but what if I took a wire with an inline fuse and ran it from the fuel pump, to the battery and have it controlled with a toggle switch?..
Then it's your responsibility. It's dangerous.

Quote:
Originally Posted by DailyDrivted View Post
Also. What would cause so much draw on that circuit?..
I would be real suspicious of that generic pump you put in.
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Quotes to live by:
guessing gets expensive...drivinfaster
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buying a ratty example (of a BMW) is a parasitic relationship.(and you ain't the mosquito) 7pilot

Ken Kanne, Silverhill, AL, E36 Forum Mod/Craigslist addict/Hoarder of all sorts of stuff
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1995 318is "Bebe"; 1993 325is "Elvira" 1985 635CSi "Katja" 1984 633CSi "Sylvia"
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  #30  
Old 12-15-2013, 08:09 AM
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Can you say FIRE ! I hope your also planning on installing a Halon/racing fire extinguisher in your car (a regular household one will kill you if you use it while your also in the car) remember you rigged up a high pressure fuel pump that's 2 or 3 feet from where you sit in the car,not under the car or in the trunk in the car with you.Trust me I've seen an E30 burn they go quick ,think single wide trailer a couple of min and it's gone.

Last edited by toybuilder; 12-15-2013 at 08:11 AM.
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  #31  
Old 12-15-2013, 04:55 PM
DailyDrivted DailyDrivted is offline
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I really don't know what to do. I'm gonna check something on the pump, I have a feeling that the positive connector and ground are touching, in return blowing the fuse. And is having a high pressure pump as the in tank pump a bad idea? Sorry for all the questions, I don't know much about fuel systems.
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  #32  
Old 12-16-2013, 04:45 AM
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The in tank pump is a high pressure pump that's not the problem,the problem is hot wiring the pump ,that's why it keeps priming. Do you have 12v at the in tank pump? (without your rigging).
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  #33  
Old 12-16-2013, 08:37 AM
Ken@BavAuto Ken@BavAuto is offline
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Sounds to me like the pump you put in is drawing way too much power and blowing the fuse. Not surprising considering it isn't intended to be used on your car. Purchasing and installing the correct pump will probably fix it up just fine.
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  #34  
Old 12-16-2013, 09:35 AM
DailyDrivted DailyDrivted is offline
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Well like I mentioned before, when I put in the new relay I ordered, it keeps priming, but when I put in my old relay it primes normally for half a second. I think the new relay I got is the wrong one. And I didn't really hot wire anything. The only "rigging" I did was fit the pump to the fuel pump base, and redo the connectors so they would fit on the fuel pump. So I know the wiring is correct.

BUT, I took the pump out last night because I'm re wiring it again, and I think that I had a very faulty ground. That may have been grounding out the positive connector.

Thanks for the reply ken. You may be right.

But I'm going to try a couple more things before I go and replace the pump.. Kinda slackin' on money right now.
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  #35  
Old 12-16-2013, 09:36 AM
DailyDrivted DailyDrivted is offline
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And I will check today to see if I have 12V to the pump
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  #36  
Old 12-16-2013, 10:51 AM
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I said before there are two relays for a 318i early and late production after 12/84 they look totally different though so you should have noticed.
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  #37  
Old 12-16-2013, 06:07 PM
DailyDrivted DailyDrivted is offline
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I believe I fixed the problem! I wired the pump up to a switch using a relay and an inline fuse, a lot of wiring, but I fired it up and it stayed running for a good 10 minutes, idling correctly. I'm gonna check the fuel pressure tomorrow and post then! Thank you everyone for all of your help and info!
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  #38  
Old 12-17-2013, 05:02 AM
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Nick323 Nick323 is offline
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Exclamation Fuel & spark- only inside the combustion chamber

DD I have a feeling you are playing with fire
You have a short near a fuel source
you jerry rigged a unknown in-tank pump on your system &...

I do not want to harp on about this, but maybe re-read Toybuilder's thread about the Halon extinguishers
Please be extra careful when working near fuel vapours
It can get really ugly if your clothes get sprinled (or soaked) with fuel & then...
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  #39  
Old 12-18-2013, 06:25 AM
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DD almost all the race cars I've built have had a switch and relay for the fuel system but they also had a fire extinguisher system, my street car has a separate harness on a switch that controls the engine a switch for fuel and a starter button, but it's a complicated system that still requires the key to unlock the steering and turn on the acc. .Basically the whole car has been rewired, Oh and yes I keep a SCCA legal Halon extinguisher in the car.Any time you start altering the wiring in a 25yr old car you need to be concerned about fires. My last comment on this is make sure your seat belt release is working properly is case you need to leave in a hurry.
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  #40  
Old 12-18-2013, 09:43 AM
Ken@BavAuto Ken@BavAuto is offline
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I don't have an ETM in front of me for this year but I suspect that one 15 amp fuse was for both stock pumps. Put a second pump in that probably draws more power than both stock pumps combined and poof! I understand needing to get your car running with what you've got on hand (especially during the holidays) but it really would be the best idea to fix it properly as soon as possible. I've converted a few old cars from mechanical to electric fuel pumps myself running new wiring (with a relay triggered by the ignition, not with straight current through a switch) and have never had an issue. But i've also heard of fires from this kind of stuff too.
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  #41  
Old 12-18-2013, 11:53 AM
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That's kinda what I was trying to say to do what DD's done correctly it's a bit more complex than what he's done .Even after that it's still basically a race car, wiring wise and should be treated as such .
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  #42  
Old 12-18-2013, 01:07 PM
Ken@BavAuto Ken@BavAuto is offline
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Yeah I've even seen people run the circuit through an oil pressure switch to make sure the pump shuts down when the engine isn't running. On the opposite end I've seen hot wires run through firewalls without grommets, things like fuel pumps and electric fans wired straight to battery power through a $2 toggle switch, and low pressure fuel line and those cheap plastic see-through filters used on fuel injected cars. There's never a lack of potential fireballs sharing the roads with us.
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  #43  
Old 12-19-2013, 03:41 AM
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When my oldest daughter Liz turned 16 I gave her an 87' 325is with a rebuilt motor and trans (auto she hadn't learned stick yet) and really nice paint and interior and it was just to much car for her at the time .So I sold it to a friends cousin ,my /employee was a BMW tech his cuz was a wantabe tech ,so after a year or so the fuel pump relay went out ,dimwit cuz calls me I tell him what's wrong with the car over the phone and tell him I have one if he's willing to drive up to my house to get it about 30 miles.The next day my friend tells me oh he fixed it ,I ask how, well he put in a switch with a relay from a light kit and a 30amp fuse.OK so about a week later he still hasn't bothered to put in the right relay ,he starts the car drives maybe 50 feet smells burning wire,so he pulls over gets out of the car as he's walking to the passenger side he notices the back seat is of fire. Being a dimwit he opens the door then the whole back seat is on fire he burns the $#!^ out of his hand before he backs of to watch his car burn to a shell ,then the Fire Dept arrives and puts out the molten hull of a once pretty nice car ,that all he had to do was not rig it up and he'd probably still own it.
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  #44  
Old 12-19-2013, 07:19 AM
Ken@BavAuto Ken@BavAuto is offline
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Hopefully that doesn't happen to the OP's car. My first E30 actually wound up going up in flames. Long after I sold it though. I never did hear if they ever figured out why. I had sold it to a customer's kid up in northern Maine and he was going to college in Canada. About 2 years later a coworker sent me a couple photos of it burned to a crisp. Apparently he came out of a shopping mall to the fire department putting the fire out. It was a nice car too.
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  #45  
Old 12-19-2013, 07:36 AM
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Yeah this one went out in a blaze of dumb ass!Hope DD is reading this and goes back to trying to actually fixing his car.

Last edited by toybuilder; 12-19-2013 at 07:38 AM.
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