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E46 (1999 - 2006)
The fourth generation 3 Series (E46 chassis) was introduced in 1999 and set the standard for engineering and performance during it's years of production including being named to Car & Driver's 10 best list every one of those years! ! -- View the E46 Wiki

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  #51  
Old 12-17-2013, 10:04 PM
e46_platform e46_platform is offline
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Originally Posted by smolck View Post
Ok, I did a fresh oil change today with just plain oil. Penzoil high mileage 10w40 dino oil.

I ran 250 miles, mostly interstate at 3200rpm. I didn't burn a drop! The plan is to run this for 2000 miles as a final "cleanse" cycle and then back to synthetic.

I honestly think this worked! I'm expecting to use 1qt per 2500 miles or so, I'd consider that a MAJOR win.

This is smolck approved as a way to reduce oil consumption safely and effectively.

Anyone want to help me trademark "smoil" ?

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that's great news!
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  #52  
Old 12-20-2013, 02:53 PM
Madlow Madlow is offline
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i think an engine flush helped me alot

i did a engine flush, changed to amsoil 5w40 and then added lubro moly oil saver and so far i havent burned any oil.... im at 2100 kms

I used to burn a quart every 1000km
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  #53  
Old 12-20-2013, 04:10 PM
shadow 2 shadow 2 is offline
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I plan to do this in February.
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  #54  
Old 12-24-2013, 07:02 AM
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Just another update, I have about 600 miles on just plain dino oil. NO CONSUMPTION! Nada, zilch, zero!

I would have more miles on the car but due to the cat problem I am not driving it much. But so far, so good. In the past, I have never gone 600 miles without some loss of oil. Impressive!

And while I know oil color isn't necessarily a good way to gauge its condition, the oil still looks almost like when I poured it into the car. Before all this (and the catch can) it would look black after a few hundred miles.

The catch can also seems to be helping this problem!
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now, go burn your Man Card, and buy yourself a Camry....

Last edited by smolck; 12-24-2013 at 07:04 AM.
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  #55  
Old 12-25-2013, 07:43 AM
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Cool! Yesterday I topped mine off with half a quart and changed the filter. The old one didn't look too bad after 3.5k miles, still could tell it started out yellow. I'll monitor and see when I need to add again. This is typical for me... but seems to have gone longer with GC than it does with BMW Synthetic - about 1k more.

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  #56  
Old 12-25-2013, 09:30 AM
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Re: Not your normal oil change

You running 0w30 castrol?

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  #57  
Old 12-25-2013, 10:32 AM
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yup
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  #58  
Old 12-26-2013, 01:05 PM
drummr8 drummr8 is offline
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This thread is extremely informative.

I am burning about 1qt every 1500-2000 miles. What process would you recommend I do? I was thinking I would do just 2 or 3 cycles with 6qts dino, 16oz of seafoam and 1/2qt trans fluid.

Where's the best place to pick up the catch can?
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  #59  
Old 12-26-2013, 03:07 PM
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Not your normal oil change

Quote:
Originally Posted by drummr8 View Post
This thread is extremely informative.

I am burning about 1qt every 1500-2000 miles. What process would you recommend I do? I was thinking I would do just 2 or 3 cycles with 6qts dino, 16oz of seafoam and 1/2qt trans fluid.

Where's the best place to pick up the catch can?
If I was you, I'd do a lubro moly pro line engine flush (Napa carries it in my area). Then I'd do 3 cycles of oil/seafoam. I also highly recommend using either Penzoil yellow bottle or high mileage dino. The detergents in it are really good, it works great.

As for the catch can, it all depends on your budget. How much do you want to spend?


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  #60  
Old 12-26-2013, 04:03 PM
PerfectStorm01 PerfectStorm01 is offline
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This post is great and I've been reading it regularly. A few questions: What does GC stand for? In Australia, we can't get seafoam and I've never seen Penzoil, can you suggest any alternatives? Or should I just use the FB trans fluid flush?

Currently, I do 7500 OCIs, but was thinking about going 3750 OCIs as I get better mileage with fresh oil. Oil is pretty much black as soon as I put it in. No sludge, engine is spotless (I just did my vanos).

Smolck, I read that you oil looked "new" after adding fresh oil and driving a bit-I'm looking for that "new" look too

Thanks for the great info.
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  #61  
Old 12-26-2013, 05:34 PM
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Originally Posted by PerfectStorm01 View Post
This post is great and I've been reading it regularly. A few questions: What does GC stand for? In Australia, we can't get seafoam and I've never seen Penzoil, can you suggest any alternatives? Or should I just use the FB trans fluid flush?

Currently, I do 7500 OCIs, but was thinking about going 3750 OCIs as I get better mileage with fresh oil. Oil is pretty much black as soon as I put it in. No sludge, engine is spotless (I just did my vanos).

Smolck, I read that you oil looked "new" after adding fresh oil and driving a bit-I'm looking for that "new" look too

Thanks for the great info.
GC = "German Castrol" (full synthetic)....which is what is sold at BMW dealers in US and A. It offers superior shear strength compared to many other synth brands.
Can you get Lubramoly down in Oz ? Castrol GTX (dino) would be an excellent alternative for Pennzoil, and you might want to try just changing the filter at 3750, and keeping the OCIs at 7500 until you compare the difference after a couple of changes.
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  #62  
Old 12-26-2013, 05:43 PM
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Another form of "German Castrol" is the 0w30 stuff. But the new 10w40 and 5w40 weight Castrol Edge oils also meet LL-01 BMW spec.

if you can't get seafoam, can you get marvel mystery oil?

It works slower (it's less solvent, more petroleum), but might work. You could also try Rislone. If you can order Kreen I would say that stuff would be ideal too. Won't need near as much though, it is STRONG!

Keep in mind, if your car doesn't use a lot of oil, my method is likely not needed. If my motor didn't burn oil I would do a Lubro Moly flush every other oil change and call it good. Remember, color isn't a good way to judge the condition of an oil. But in my case, it would look black after just a few hundred miles, that coupled with 1qt per 400 miles consumption was enough to spur me to drastic action.

Lastly, the top of my engine also looked spotless. But my oil rings were still so caked up they weren't doing their job.
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now, go burn your Man Card, and buy yourself a Camry....

Last edited by smolck; 12-26-2013 at 05:45 PM.
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  #63  
Old 12-26-2013, 09:22 PM
PerfectStorm01 PerfectStorm01 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Fast Bob View Post
GC = "German Castrol" (full synthetic)....which is what is sold at BMW dealers in US and A. It offers superior shear strength compared to many other synth brands.
Can you get Lubramoly down in Oz ? Castrol GTX (dino) would be an excellent alternative for Pennzoil, and you might want to try just changing the filter at 3750, and keeping the OCIs at 7500 until you compare the difference after a couple of changes.
Thanks FB! Before DIYing the first oil change was at a bmw dealership (2 weeks post purchase), the tappet noise was horrendous so I went back to M1. I can get lubramoly and Castrol GTX so I will try that next OCI. I bought an oil filter last week so I will just change that next month once I hit the 3750 mark.

Quote:
Originally Posted by smolck View Post
Another form of "German Castrol" is the 0w30 stuff. But the new 10w40 and 5w40 weight Castrol Edge oils also meet LL-01 BMW spec.

if you can't get seafoam, can you get marvel mystery oil?

It works slower (it's less solvent, more petroleum), but might work. You could also try Rislone. If you can order Kreen I would say that stuff would be ideal too. Won't need near as much though, it is STRONG!

Keep in mind, if your car doesn't use a lot of oil, my method is likely not needed. If my motor didn't burn oil I would do a Lubro Moly flush every other oil change and call it good. Remember, color isn't a good way to judge the condition of an oil. But in my case, it would look black after just a few hundred miles, that coupled with 1qt per 400 miles consumption was enough to spur me to drastic action.

Lastly, the top of my engine also looked spotless. But my oil rings were still so caked up they weren't doing their job.
I could be mistaken but I thought the 0w30, though LL01, was for 4 cylinder engines here in Australia. I will need to double check. Hmmm MMO, I may need to score that on ebay or have my local auto shop get it in. I was always hesitant to add these oil flushes, but if you can put your name on smoil and get some results it is worth a try even if it's once every 15K or so. I'll try the lubro moly stuff with FB's recommendation on Castrol GTX next change.

Thanks for the info and keep the updates rolling
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  #64  
Old 12-30-2013, 02:38 PM
nike001 nike001 is offline
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Been following your progress on ZHPMafia and I'm thoroughly impressed!

I'm definitely going to try what you've been doing as I've been apart of the 1qt/1,000 miles club for quite some time now. Keeping my current oil clean for a follow-up analysis by Blackstone Labs, but after that I'll definitely be trying to follow your footsteps.
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  #65  
Old 01-11-2014, 08:43 AM
shadow 2 shadow 2 is offline
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Any update on your oil consumption?
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  #66  
Old 01-11-2014, 09:00 AM
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I'm testing my theory of cleaner oil = less consumption. As noted, I went 1000 more miles with 0w30 German Castrol before needing to top off.

One other thing I've noticed since changing to this oil is suspiciously quiet engine starts in cold weather. Since the car was new I'd have this horrid screeching when starting the car after it sat for a few days in cold weather. By cold, I mean 40f or under as I live in a mild climate. Formerly thought to be a screeching belt, tensioner or pulley... apparently it wasn't! Thing is, I replaced all those things around 30k miles ago and the screeching problem didn't go away. I've just been living with it... of course when it was under warranty I complained to the servicing dealers and they, everyone together now, couldn't duplicate the problem.

I'm going to do a UOA (used oil analysis) when I do my next change and compare to the previous one. My engine has always showed higher than normal wear, so I'm curious to see if the numbers go down.

Interesting experiment!
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  #67  
Old 01-11-2014, 10:19 AM
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Thanks for bumping this, I need to update. After 1500 miles my car started to consume oil again. Not at the crazy rate as before, but it did eat some. And since it didn't use any in the first 1100 miles or so, it has used about 1/2 qt maybe in 400 miles.

I am going to shock flush it with Lubro Moly again and order some Kreen. I think my rings are just pretty badly gunked. Kreen is supposed to be amazing stuff. So I am about to H-bomb my motor.

At least I no longer have cats that can be clogged by using oil. I will say, it is possible that some is just leaking because I have a pretty wicked rear main leak and an oil pan gasket leak. We shall see.....More to come.
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  #68  
Old 01-11-2014, 11:21 AM
davidmaria1 davidmaria1 is offline
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How will those solvents affect the pan gasket and rear main? Not meaning the seal material, but maybe any sludge built up?
It seems difficult to accurately measure oil usage with those leaks.
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  #69  
Old 03-21-2014, 03:33 AM
celsdogg celsdogg is offline
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Hey smolck, can we get an update on your progress with this?

Thanks.
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  #70  
Old 03-21-2014, 06:28 AM
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Hey smolck, can we get an update on your progress with this?

Thanks.
Sure. Continues to improve now that I am using Penzoil Euro Ulltra 5w40 (has a ferrari emblem on the bottle). I am averaging 1qt per 1000 miles or so. It tends to burn it faster when I take long trips on the interstate and the car spends a long time at 3400rpm or so (my cruising speed is about 80mph and that is the rpm with the 3.46 diff).

I do have a massive leak on the rear main though. So I could very well be using less than that. I am close to another oil change, I plan to flush it again with the Lubro Moly and go back with the Penzoil again. I'll be interested to see what that does.

But all in all, the catch can and the flush did a good job and I am pleased.
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now, go burn your Man Card, and buy yourself a Camry....
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  #71  
Old 03-21-2014, 10:05 AM
celsdogg celsdogg is offline
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^^^ thanks man.
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  #72  
Old 03-21-2014, 10:40 AM
Nadir Point Nadir Point is offline
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This is what you need:

http://www.auto-rx.com/



It's the only oil additive engine cleaner I've ever found that is actually safe and works. It is well documented on sites like BITOG and other places on the Internet.
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  #73  
Old 03-21-2014, 12:53 PM
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This is what you need:

http://www.auto-rx.com/



It's the only oil additive engine cleaner I've ever found that is actually safe and works. It is well documented on sites like BITOG and other places on the Internet.
Actually, lots of guys on BITOG don't like it. The BEST additive is Kreen from Kano Labs, period. I didn't go autorx because they won't tell you what's in it.



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  #74  
Old 03-21-2014, 10:20 PM
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Actually, lots of guys on BITOG don't like it. The BEST additive is Kreen from Kano Labs, period. I didn't go autorx because they won't tell you what's in it.



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They do. It's a patented blend of three aliphatic esters and the only thing I'd put in a BMW or any engine for that matter apart from oil. BITOG members want cheap and fast and it's neither.
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  #75  
Old 03-22-2014, 07:34 AM
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They do. It's a patented blend of three aliphatic esters and the only thing I'd put in a BMW or any engine for that matter apart from oil. BITOG members want cheap and fast and it's neither.
Yea, because a BMW engine is somehow "special" from a ford, chevy, or anything else for that matter. Saying "I wouldn't put that in a BMW" is kinda funny. An internal combustion engine is an internal combustion engine, period.

And I had excellent results from my seafoam/atf/lubro moly treatments.

AutoRX might be amazing, but I have seen before and after photos and it made no difference in varnish and build up. They have more negative reviews than positive. To me it is akin to Marvel Mystery Oil. It is well known, and used quite often, but does very very little.
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