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E90/E91/E92/E93 (2006 - 2013)
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  #1  
Old 11-30-2013, 05:56 AM
notanotherbmw notanotherbmw is offline
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Adaptive headlights not working. New module or recode?

As usual, my adaptive headlights are throwing a ' malfunction'. I checked under the wheel and they look ok. Took the headlights out and it looks like the motor is connected, although it could be burnt out. Undid the module and it was caked in mould (see pics below) . I used bleach to clean the mould and they came up well. Let them dry off, but they still dont work and the 'malfunction' light is still on.

Is there a chance the mould could have thrown the code or is it likely the module is stuffed? Ive read that BMW can just recode to remove the warning light. But how can I check if the module is working or not before forking out for a recode?

What does BMW charge for a recode? Can a noob buy a diagnostics cable and do it?
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  #2  
Old 11-30-2013, 07:02 AM
hondo402000 hondo402000 is offline
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Appears to look ok. Do you see any solder joints that look loose You could get a solder iron and heat each joint. Use flux an if any have broke free it would resolder them. I have done it on other boards and it ended up solving the problem. At this point you have nothing to loose. And you cant damage it
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  #3  
Old 11-30-2013, 07:06 AM
notanotherbmw notanotherbmw is offline
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Ive heard you can put them i the oven for 30mins or so to resecure the joins. Is that true?
Still, the malfunction code is showing and the tests dont my ve the headlights.
Could the module be stuffed, or just need a recode?
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  #4  
Old 11-30-2013, 07:22 AM
fdriller9 fdriller9 is offline
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I doubt the module can be recoded. Most likely, if you pull faults from the frm, you will have a comm fault with the SMCII module.

You can buy used modules off eBay for around $100 and swap it in. It may need recording, depending on what country it came from and which side of the vehicle it came off of.

Your first move is to find the leak though. Water that enters the top, outer side of the housing will find its way down to that module. Turn signal is a common area for water to enter. The pressure vent can also take in water if the splash guard is missing from the fender liner.

When I cut open and modify these headlights, I silicone the harness for the SMCII module. It's in a really bad location and easily exposed to water.
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Last edited by fdriller9; 11-30-2013 at 07:24 AM.
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  #5  
Old 11-30-2013, 07:41 AM
notanotherbmw notanotherbmw is offline
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Ill go with the second hand module. The only ones I could see were overseas, which is a pain.
What about using a reset tool? Ive seen them from $20-$250. I would rather reset the error code than pay to fix it, thrn it stuffs up again.

What about replacing the headlights with non-adaptive? Will this get rid of the code? Ive seen some cool projector lights on ebay for $500/set.
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  #6  
Old 11-30-2013, 08:14 AM
fdriller9 fdriller9 is offline
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You can code the adaptive system out if the vehicle without having to remove or alter any hardware.

Remove the adaptive option code from the VO (I think it's $524). Code cas and frm with expert profile.

Read up on bmwcoding.com. There is also a coding section on this site to.

Cable is available through one-stop-electronics
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  #7  
Old 11-30-2013, 08:29 AM
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CALWATERBOY CALWATERBOY is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by notanotherbmw View Post
Ill go with the second hand module. The only ones I could see were overseas, which is a pain.
What about using a reset tool? Ive seen them from $20-$250. I would rather reset the error code than pay to fix it, thrn it stuffs up again.

What about replacing the headlights with non-adaptive? Will this get rid of the code? Ive seen some cool projector lights on ebay for $500/set.

YO! If you're throwing the old board away, I'll prepay freight to my location - love picking things apart.

Also, looks like a conformal coating might be on the chip side; none seen flip side. A problem. If coated, will block contamination from moisture & dirt.

Bleach might not have been the best thing for electronics, but hey....sure is clean.
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  #8  
Old 11-30-2013, 10:41 AM
fdriller9 fdriller9 is offline
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Originally Posted by CALWATERBOY View Post
YO! If you're throwing the old board away, I'll prepay freight to my location - love picking things apart.

Also, looks like a conformal coating might be on the chip side; none seen flip side. A problem. If coated, will block contamination from moisture & dirt.

Bleach might not have been the best thing for electronics, but hey....sure is clean.
I have one laying around I think.

I also have a TVandNAV2Go video interface that has some water damage. If you can figure out what components fried and get it working, I'll pay you!
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  #9  
Old 12-05-2013, 12:28 PM
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its either module or ballast, try to switch the D1S bulbs around firstly
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  #10  
Old 12-05-2013, 12:53 PM
fdriller9 fdriller9 is offline
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The ballast has NOTHING to do with the adaptive system. Nor do the D1S bulbs.
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  #11  
Old 12-05-2013, 02:25 PM
notanotherbmw notanotherbmw is offline
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I just bought a coder, so Ill check it out this weekend. If that doesnt do it, Ill replace the modules and recode.
It seems this is a very common issue. Unfortunately, you cant even replace the headlights for stajdard because the code will keep going off without the modules : (
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  #12  
Old 12-05-2013, 03:35 PM
fdriller9 fdriller9 is offline
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You have the option of disabling the adaptive system.

Remove the option code from the VO. Code CAS and FRM (NFRM).

Then code FRM with an Expert Profile in NCS.

If the projectors are facing to one side, you will need to manually apply power to the stepper motors to center the projector.
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  #13  
Old 12-05-2013, 03:49 PM
notanotherbmw notanotherbmw is offline
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Boom! I've searched everywhere for that answer. I'm using a Autel Maxiscan. Can i do it using that?
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  #14  
Old 12-10-2013, 05:22 AM
notanotherbmw notanotherbmw is offline
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Tried the Autel Maxiscan... Useless. It brought up no codes. I should have bought the PC scanner?
Any suggestions? Should I try new modules or just get new headlights?
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  #15  
Old 12-10-2013, 05:19 PM
fdriller9 fdriller9 is offline
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Generic scanners will not pull shadow faults.

You need a scanner made specifically for BMW, such as the BavTech Tool or a coding cable from one-stop-electronics with a BMW Standard Tools setup, or ISTA with an ICOM setup etc.

Your best bet is the coding cable but the software isn't exactly straight forward and there is no support other than online forums. It's well documented but not completely.
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Last edited by fdriller9; 12-10-2013 at 05:20 PM.
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  #16  
Old 12-10-2013, 08:10 PM
bimmertech113 bimmertech113 is offline
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Adaptive headlights not working. New module or recode?

That's corrosion on the stepper motor controller you have pictured. I'm sure that one is junk now and needs to be replaced. Also check for leaks in the headlight or the same thing will happen again


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  #17  
Old 12-13-2013, 06:15 AM
notanotherbmw notanotherbmw is offline
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How can you tell it is corroded? Im not doubting you as the lights still do not work. For $500, Ill just buy a new module and get it working. I dont want to play with coding. I have a feeling my car will never start again.
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  #18  
Old 12-13-2013, 06:16 AM
notanotherbmw notanotherbmw is offline
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If I put the boards in the oven (like they do with ram), could this reseal the points? Or if it is corroded, is it completely stuffed?
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Old 12-13-2013, 07:11 AM
fdriller9 fdriller9 is offline
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The water has most likely shorted components on the board. Reflowing the solder will do nothing.

I would hate to see you spend $500 when you can spend half and repair the issue.

Pm if you want me to remote code your car. You will need to purchase the cable. I will take care of the rest.
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Old 12-22-2013, 03:37 AM
notanotherbmw notanotherbmw is offline
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Thanks. Do you mean code the warning out? I might just pay the $500 and get them working. They are pretty cool.
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Old 01-12-2014, 01:55 PM
big_cg big_cg is offline
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So, I had the same issue. My adaptive module was full of water and broken pins/ corrosion because of condensation that was left alone for so long.

I ordered a new seal door, and am looking to buy a used module on ebay. Anyone know how I can make the second hand module work with my car? Some posts suggest a NFRM reset, others are add vin info, etc.

I have a INPA cable coming now...but it's my first time coding BMW and I'm a bit nervous on it. If someone can explain what to do it would be highly appreciated. Im going to follow the DIY video to get it set up with my car. I have experience coding VW /Audi, but nothing yet on the bimmer.

Thanks
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Old 01-13-2014, 09:00 AM
fdriller9 fdriller9 is offline
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Originally Posted by big_cg View Post
So, I had the same issue. My adaptive module was full of water and broken pins/ corrosion because of condensation that was left alone for so long.

I ordered a new seal door, and am looking to buy a used module on ebay. Anyone know how I can make the second hand module work with my car? Some posts suggest a NFRM reset, others are add vin info, etc.

I have a INPA cable coming now...but it's my first time coding BMW and I'm a bit nervous on it. If someone can explain what to do it would be highly appreciated. Im going to follow the DIY video to get it set up with my car. I have experience coding VW /Audi, but nothing yet on the bimmer.

Thanks
If it's off the same side of the vehicle and same country of origin, it's plug and play.

If it doesn't work properly, all you need to do is code the module with an Expert profile in NCS. This will set the module to default values according to your vehicle's VO. Modules are LSMC and RSMC, left and right SMC.
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  #23  
Old 01-13-2014, 11:00 AM
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BB_cuda BB_cuda is offline
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Quite a while back in the thread, OP mentioned using bleach. Future repairers, don't do this. Use isopropyl alcohol as it will evaopate with no residue. Don't know what bleach might leave behind. Perhaps lightly dry with blow dryer to evap all of liquid away quickly.

Cal mentioned conformal coating. You need to chip this stuff away bfore reflowing a joint. I wouldn't put whole board in an oven. You could potentially mess up other perfectly good solder joints and theres the conformal coating everywhere else. Focus on what needs repair and redo it only.

This advice is fairly generic with regard to working on any electronic boards on this car or other places. Best practice is to use an ESD strap so as to not zap a sensitive part especially in cold dry parts of the country. Its hardly a problem here in the humidity capital of the country. I leave the coding advice to others. best of luck
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Old 01-15-2014, 10:08 AM
big_cg big_cg is offline
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Originally Posted by fdriller9 View Post
If it's off the same side of the vehicle and same country of origin, it's plug and play.

If it doesn't work properly, all you need to do is code the module with an Expert profile in NCS. This will set the module to default values according to your vehicle's VO. Modules are LSMC and RSMC, left and right SMC.

Awesome. Thanks.

I'm trying to get one from the correct side now, but might have to settle for the wrong side and figure out the recoding deal. It would be my first time coding so a bit nervous about screwing something up. I have the cable though and am downloading the software pack now
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Old 01-15-2014, 10:11 AM
big_cg big_cg is offline
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Originally Posted by BB_cuda View Post
Quite a while back in the thread, OP mentioned using bleach. Future repairers, don't do this. Use isopropyl alcohol as it will evaopate with no residue. Don't know what bleach might leave behind. Perhaps lightly dry with blow dryer to evap all of liquid away quickly.

Cal mentioned conformal coating. You need to chip this stuff away bfore reflowing a joint. I wouldn't put whole board in an oven. You could potentially mess up other perfectly good solder joints and theres the conformal coating everywhere else. Focus on what needs repair and redo it only.

This advice is fairly generic with regard to working on any electronic boards on this car or other places. Best practice is to use an ESD strap so as to not zap a sensitive part especially in cold dry parts of the country. Its hardly a problem here in the humidity capital of the country. I leave the coding advice to others. best of luck
I think the bigger issue on mine was that the pins corroded and broke two off. I had to recover them from the connector with needle nose pliers and clean the connector with QD cleaner, brass brush, and carb valve cleaning needles. Hoping no permanent damage to the connector.

About half an ounce of water poured out of the module and an ounce from the angel eye bulb cover. Damn PO that let the condensation issue go on for so long



If anyone wants my toasted module for $10 to cover shipping, let me know
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