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E34 (1989 - 1995)

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  #26  
Old 11-02-2013, 04:34 AM
clj72 clj72 is offline
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Location: Beaudesert. QLD
 
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Mein Auto: e34 535
e34 bible

Wow heaps of info nice work!
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  #27  
Old 11-17-2013, 04:31 PM
E34ZombieHunter's Avatar
E34ZombieHunter E34ZombieHunter is online now
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Location: Lillington NC
 
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http://www.scribd.com/doc/80785425/15/Moonroof This may be something to add very interesting.
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Gotta love an E34!!:thumb up:
If you want to get junkyard parts remember one thing, if it was wrecked you know it was running/driving. You may not know how well, but it was.
Quote:
Originally Posted by BMR_LVR View Post
So a synopsis of a normally operating fan clutch:

Engine stone cold - fan clutch engaged
Engine at normal operating temp - fan clutch disengaged (easily stopped with the newspaper)
Engine above normal operating temp - fan clutch engaged
STOMP TEST

OEM Approved brands
READ ME IM THE BIBLE
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  #28  
Old 11-27-2013, 03:16 AM
clj72 clj72 is offline
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Location: Beaudesert. QLD
 
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Mein Auto: e34 535
Thanks heaps 540 sport. Will give me some reading when I get time I did find out I don't have a head gasket problem and it is a leaking oil pressure sending unit a the back of engine. So I got a miller WAR MAF combo this week and I have a list of thing to do. Wheels off to do brakes new discs and pads all round.
Replace front struts already did rear with lowered spring set.
Picked up a set of e32 16inch wheels to go on they look like whats there now.
New exhaust mounts/hangers.
Diff oil and check centre bearing[little bit of shudder at crusing speed when off gas].
Replace seal form problem oil sender at rear of engine check and if needed replace heater,fuel lines what ever looks bad.
Then put in chip and maf and cross fingers
Hoping should do alright put a e28 single mass fly when I did the clutch last year, new rebuilt injectors 19pounds, probably leave it at that I need to get the paint touched up then. This is my first BMW and I am really pleased at the build quality. Took abit to get used to getting the most out of how you drive it very reavy engine I had a Maloo ute before with the 5.7 + mods and having it on tap form the get go was cool but the e34 goes around corners a lot better
Any ideas from you guys would be cool and please excuse any cockups with this post/reply??
I don't know what I'm doing I'm new here joe dirt..
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  #29  
Old 12-27-2013, 07:29 PM
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E34ZombieHunter E34ZombieHunter is online now
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Location: Lillington NC
 
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http://bmwe32.masscom.net/johan/obc_...c_secrets.html
http://home.iae.nl/users/bts/obc.htm
Check these out
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Gotta love an E34!!:thumb up:
If you want to get junkyard parts remember one thing, if it was wrecked you know it was running/driving. You may not know how well, but it was.
Quote:
Originally Posted by BMR_LVR View Post
So a synopsis of a normally operating fan clutch:

Engine stone cold - fan clutch engaged
Engine at normal operating temp - fan clutch disengaged (easily stopped with the newspaper)
Engine above normal operating temp - fan clutch engaged
STOMP TEST

OEM Approved brands
READ ME IM THE BIBLE
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  #30  
Old 01-02-2014, 12:42 PM
ZenitramNaes ZenitramNaes is offline
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Location: Tallahassee, Florida
 
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Mein Auto: 1989 e34 535i
Great info, it looks like my bookmark page! Well done indeed. Quick question about the afm adjustment, my 535i is idling at 11.4, super rich, and adjusting the afm to stoich had no affect on it. Now, I believe this is due to the PO wiring in a different DME (long story), but in a normal situation, would this method change the AFR shown on a wide band gauge?
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1989 e34 535i/5 k27 turbo

Last edited by ZenitramNaes; 01-02-2014 at 12:46 PM.
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  #31  
Old 01-03-2014, 01:01 AM
MySatinDoll MySatinDoll is offline
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Mein Auto: 1995 e34 S52b32/5
Quote:
Originally Posted by ZenitramNaes View Post
Great info, it looks like my bookmark page! Well done indeed. Quick question about the afm adjustment, my 535i is idling at 11.4, super rich, and adjusting the afm to stoich had no affect on it. Now, I believe this is due to the PO wiring in a different DME (long story), but in a normal situation, would this method change the AFR shown on a wide band gauge?
What's up bro. Glad to see you on this side of the fence.

The AFM adjustment like mentioned earlier adds more air via vane and changes the mixture.
It changes the mix on idle and during normal driving. Just not as much during driving.
When this is performed a sniffer gauge in the tail. The change in the mix is evident.

That said I would think you could see it using a wideband. But that's a guess based on the similar capabilities of both the wideband and a sniffer gauge.

IMO the dme issue and the fact that your running rich seems like a compounded issue.
I would check all the usual suspects before ruling the DME as the cause.
If you can't prove anything else to be the culprit. Then look into what's going on with your DME.

Furthermore You have a boosted M30!!!!
Please give ME..excuse me... us the low down on the build.
There aren't many if any e34 force induction builds on this board (except for tim, a few other SC 540s and one 540 on Nos)
I'm one of a few boosted builds in process here.

Speaking of which I can't remember your thread over on BF.C. So I'm up to subscribe as soon as you decide to write one up.

Now with a boosted e34 you have other factors to hunt and mull through most of which depend on your build.
FWIW I've heard that boosted m30s tend to run rich.
That's not to say that your reading on the wideband is normal.
I don't want to steer you in the wrong direction until other aspects have been checked.
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  #32  
Old 01-03-2014, 05:22 PM
ZenitramNaes ZenitramNaes is offline
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Location: Tallahassee, Florida
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MySatinDoll View Post
What's up bro. Glad to see you on this side of the fence.
This post actually made me want to join up believe it or not. Also had to make an account to ask the previous question. Glad to be here!

Quote:
Originally Posted by MySatinDoll View Post
The AFM adjustment like mentioned earlier adds more air via vane and changes the mixture.
It changes the mix on idle and during normal driving. Just not as much during driving.
When this is performed a sniffer gauge in the tail. The change in the mix is evident.
That said I would think you could see it using a wideband. But that's a guess based on the similar capabilities of both the wideband and a sniffer gauge.
I don't doubt the ability of a exhaust sniffer to be able to detect the changes, but as for my wide band, Innovate MTX-L, it didn't detect any changes.

Quote:
Originally Posted by MySatinDoll View Post
IMO the dme issue and the fact that your running rich seems like a compounded issue.
I would check all the usual suspects before ruling the DME as the cause.
If you can't prove anything else to be the culprit. Then look into what's going on with your DME.
I don't actually suspect that my DME is the culprit, but the wiring of my engine harness to the DME shouldn't be trust. The culprit for all I know could lie in the mess of wires for all I know. Mega squirt will solve it hopefully..

Quote:
Originally Posted by MySatinDoll View Post
Furthermore You have a boosted M30!!!!
Please give ME..excuse me... us the low down on the build.
There aren't many if any e34 force induction builds on this board (except for tim, a few other SC 540s and one 540 on Nos)
I'm one of a few boosted builds in process here.

Speaking of which I can't remember your thread over on BF.C. So I'm up to subscribe as soon as you decide to write one up.

Now with a boosted e34 you have other factors to hunt and mull through most of which depend on your build.
FWIW I've heard that boosted m30s tend to run rich.
That's not to say that your reading on the wideband is normal.
I don't want to steer you in the wrong direction until other aspects have been checked.
I don't have a build thread because I bought it turbocharged. Not to mention from a guy that had no idea what had been done to it. So, over the months I slowly found out what had been done with it by finding old adds of the original builder and what not. I'm actually in the process of discovering EXACTLY what block and head were used with this build. As of now there are some of us how believe it is an m106.

Here is the thread I made in the 7 series, e23, section about identfying the engine.
http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum...tifying-engine

As for a build thread, I've taken this thing apart so many times that I could make one. However, I do plan on making a thread and the process of mega squirting the engine. Coming within a month or two! I know the member Goat Thumper has pretty good write ups on BimmerForums, but by now they are four to five years old. I would love to help clear things up with other users planning, or attempting to run MS in their own cars.

Didn't mean to thread jack, carry on!
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1989 e34 535i/5 k27 turbo

Last edited by ZenitramNaes; 01-03-2014 at 08:31 PM.
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  #33  
Old 01-03-2014, 07:40 PM
MySatinDoll MySatinDoll is offline
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Mein Auto: 1995 e34 S52b32/5
Quote:
Originally Posted by ZenitramNaes View Post
This post actually made me want to join up believe it or not. Also had to make an account to ask the previous question. Glad to be here!
Me too. The fest isn't as intense as BF.C. Which for me was good. Not to say the people I've met over the years at BF.C weren't beneficial to my growth. I still have love (brotherly that is) for many of them and hold close ties to them. But after a few bad incidents on my part. As well as the changing of the atmosphere there. I tend to log on once in the blue.

That said "Welcome to the Family or Party, or just plain welcome.


Quote:
Originally Posted by ZenitramNaes View Post
I don't doubt the ability of a exhaust sniffer to be able to detect the changes, but as for my wide band, Innovate MTX-L, it didn't detect any changes.
So let's say (just for now) that the dme and the wiring is ok.
I would definitely check the easier of the common issues which cause a m30 to go rich.
I say easier for one of the more involved issues could be the injectors.
It's not an easy task to physically check if they are dumping more fuel than needed.

However you can run through your tune using tunerstudio to see what your settings are.
(opening my tunerstudio app) I would check your engine constants, injector characteristics,
(damn thing is updating, cool but f'up when trying to explain or assist others)
VE fuel map and AFR map. (this is without looking at TS...nevermind it's back up)
Also maybe a good idea to check your ignition map as well.
These should let you know where you are as far as what you got going in the build.

One places I learned the most for my build is on mye28.com.
Though we have e34s, mye28 shows the most love for the m30 cars.
There you'll see a section for force induction.

The good thing about them is no one there is holier than thou.
Everyone will help without the politics and BS usually found on BF.C.

Quote:
Originally Posted by ZenitramNaes View Post
I don't actually suspect that my DME is the culprit, but the wiring of my engine harness to the DME shouldn't be trust. The culprit for all I know could lie in the mess of wires for all I know. Mega squirt will solve it hopefully..
I don't either. But as I think about it, and knowing a little more about your build, your tune may be a possible culprit.
Use megaviewer while driving around town or whatever and see whats going on. As well check out as mentioned mye28.com they have tons of threads talking about MS and its related issues.


Quote:
Originally Posted by ZenitramNaes View Post
I don't have a build thread because I bought it turbocharged. Not to mention from a guy that had no idea what had been done to it. So, over the months I slowly found out what had been done with it by finding old adds of the original builder and what not. I'm actually in the process of discovering EXACTLY what block and head were used with this build. As of now there are some of us how believe it is an m106.

Here is the thread I made in the 7 series, e23, section about identfying the engine.
http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum...tifying-engine
Oh. Ok well I understand that. Unless you've pulled the head already check the casting numbers on the side of the head. That's a sure fire way to find out if it's a m106 or a regular b35. IIRC the m106 has a few differences in the block. The heads... well I've heard both sides of which is better. I think both are solid and can make some serious RWHP on the cheap and if you have a huge budget.



Quote:
Originally Posted by ZenitramNaes View Post
As for a build thread, I've taken this thing apart so many times that I could make one. However, I do plan on making a thread and the process of mega squirting the engine. Coming within a month or two! I know the member Goat Thumper has pretty could write ups on BimmerForums, but by now they are four to five years old. I would love to help clear things up with other users planning, or attempting to run MS in their own cars.

Didn't mean to thread jack, carry on!
No thread jack. It's good to have a m30 boost build on the subforum. You have a valid question that I'm sure someone will ask eventually. So you're good.

I too have read GT's threads and yes they are old. I built my MS2 using bnib stuff and parts from a salvaged MS1 unit built to GT's specs.
Using his info, what I found in my research and asking a few people. I was able to track down most of my issues. I don't have it anymore. But I do have the documentation ready for my next MS build.

I can send you the documentation I used to build it. If you need I will scan it all tomorrow (Saturday) and shoot a link here for it.
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  #34  
Old 01-05-2014, 03:01 AM
MySatinDoll MySatinDoll is offline
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Added Megasquirt documentation I gathered over the years to first post.
Its 2 RAR files. The one titled Megasquirt II doesn't mean MS2 info only.

It's just the second RAR file.
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  #35  
Old 01-08-2014, 03:39 AM
tauhira tauhira is offline
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E mode problem

Hi Joey , firstly thanks for all ure wonderful info ...
honestly i just need to find out if in E mode only when u reach like 120 speed the car gives a kind of back an forth reaction...like not getting enough power to move forward properly. but when u put it in S mode it work great.

Please any suggestions of what might be problem?
NB : i`m a young lady so please bare with me.....my car has a lot of sentimental value was in the family more than 15 years.
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  #36  
Old 01-08-2014, 06:05 AM
MySatinDoll MySatinDoll is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tauhira View Post
Hi Joey , firstly thanks for all ure wonderful info ...
honestly i just need to find out if in E mode only when u reach like 120 speed the car gives a kind of back an forth reaction...like not getting enough power to move forward properly. but when u put it in S mode it work great.

Please any suggestions of what might be problem?
NB : i`m a young lady so please bare with me.....my car has a lot of sentimental value was in the family more than 15 years.
No worries and welcome.
You have an auto correct? E and S are essentially Economy and Sport transmission program modes.
When in E, the car will determine the best or optimal gearing for the best fuel usage.
Sport mode is just that. It is a more aggressive gearing program. It's not the best for fuel economy but it does provide the driver with a more responsive ride.

What I don't know is if it works with those having self leveling suspensions or SLS. But I would guess it does at some rate.

Now if your experiencing transmission shifting issues that can be something else. Best to write up a thread and give us as much detail as possible to assist you.

Again welcome to the Fest.
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  #37  
Old 01-08-2014, 06:29 AM
tauhira tauhira is offline
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E mode problems

Thanks Joey !
Well I will write up a thread but I don't know much ...
Well car went to get a paint job and was there parked up for about 6 weeks.... I had to replace bumper so took awhile to locate a good one in my country ..
Anyways we scraped the car interior ... I had to change roof upholstery cus the fury one was loose out ... And a few rubbers on doors windows etc ...
They gave brand new paint job original black 303 ... Looks great have to carry it bac in week time to give it final buff after we allowed paint to settle properly.
So with all the dust etc .. They had to clean engine etc ... I was thinking maybe water got somewhere ...
When I first got back car it was idling like it was can I use the term "missing" or jumping not smooth .... But gave it a couple runs an noticed it running more smooth on idle .... Hoping problem goes away on E mode .
Carried my Fren bro who basically help me bring the car bac to proper working condition ie road worthy ... He said he not sure .. Give it some time and it it get worst it might be transmission because engine still powerful and when it on S mode it works great.
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  #38  
Old 03-16-2014, 07:53 PM
E34ZombieHunter's Avatar
E34ZombieHunter E34ZombieHunter is online now
Nothin like an E34
Location: Lillington NC
 
Join Date: Feb 2013
Posts: 1,595
Mein Auto: 95 540i B/B
OBC Info
http://bmwe32.masscom.net/johan/obc_...c_secrets.html
http://home.iae.nl/users/bts/obc.htm
__________________

Gotta love an E34!!:thumb up:
If you want to get junkyard parts remember one thing, if it was wrecked you know it was running/driving. You may not know how well, but it was.
Quote:
Originally Posted by BMR_LVR View Post
So a synopsis of a normally operating fan clutch:

Engine stone cold - fan clutch engaged
Engine at normal operating temp - fan clutch disengaged (easily stopped with the newspaper)
Engine above normal operating temp - fan clutch engaged
STOMP TEST

OEM Approved brands
READ ME IM THE BIBLE
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  #39  
Old 03-17-2014, 12:02 AM
MySatinDoll MySatinDoll is offline
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Location: Next door bring tools and beer.
 
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Mein Auto: 1995 e34 S52b32/5
Excellent add for I forgot how to do it to check my battery voltage.
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  #40  
Old 03-22-2014, 06:24 AM
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M4rl3y M4rl3y is offline
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Mein Auto: 1989 BMW 525i
Fuel pump fix easy does it
http://www.bmwe34.net/E34main/Mainte...e/FuelPump.htm


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