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6 Series
The BMW 6 Series builds on BMW's sporty heritage with aggressive lines and an incredible motor to back the design up. Available in coupe and convertible trims with a standard 4.8 liter engine producing 360 horsepower and 360 lb-ft of torque, the 6-series is a popular choice that exceeds expectations.

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  #1  
Old 01-22-2014, 08:32 AM
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Question about a sticky transmission?

This has happened to me twice so now im a little concerned and thought i would consult this knowledgable group, before I go to the dealer and let him try to blow smoke up my well you know what.
here is the scenario Im on the highway and driving around highway speed 55 ish. The vehicle in front is a little slow to my right I see an opening to pass, but as usual some jackass want to try to speed up for no reason to try to block me, so I just step on it and pass in front of him while doing so my vehicle seem to get stuck in a gear. During the move I generated more than enough torque to go around and get out in front of both vehicles, but the transmission warning came on and the car seemed like it wouldnt shift gears just keep increasing revolutions. So I pulled to the side of the road put car in park and warning went away then re-entered highway and no more problems, though I didnt try to step on it again. Fast forward one month same scenario, I have nt had any transmission issues so didnt think twice before doing the fast get around again transmission warning, which suggest moderate driving and go to BMW center. I pull over put in park warning doesnt go away. This time turn off engine and re-start then warning goes away and Im able to continue driving. Havent had problems since, but dont drive very often just once a week. Im wondering could this be the beginning of a real problem or is it a problem now and I just dont know. Any help is appreciated.
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  #2  
Old 01-22-2014, 01:39 PM
HerbP HerbP is offline
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It sounds like your fluid & filter might need changing? Even though BMW says lifetime fluid, it usually needs changing at 50k miles. It sounds like your valve body might be sluggish, & might also possibly need cleaning. Fluid, & filter run around 275.00, for the parts. This is a fairly easy DIY. While you are in there, the Mechatronic's seal should probably be changed. The fluid & pan must be removed to get to this, & the seal is less than 20.00.

Hope this helps!
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Old 01-23-2014, 02:04 AM
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Michael
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Try doing an auto transmission reset as a starter, couple of recent threads to explain how. One of the things with these cars is that if they are not used often and sit around then they get sluggish in so many ways.
I do not know if you have done it yet but go for a really good run, lots of miles and push the tranny through its paces lots of changes and and some stress, this will really get the transmission working hard and if any of the valves in the transmission are a bit sticky then it can release them, it takes a good while for the transmission oil to get really hot, either way better to do this as a starter to see if you really do have a hard transmission fault.........by the way you can give it some pain as the cars thrive on being driven !!!!
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Old 01-23-2014, 06:10 AM
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Thanks for the advice. While I don't drive it much especially now with the weather we have been experiencing on the East Coast. I have driven the car two hours and more, one way a few times. And unfortunately this past weekend I did push it a little. I say unfortunately because I got a speeding ticket. Took it to 100, and was virtually coasting at 80 (that's how I got caught). I didn't step on the gear changes much just a couple time a stop light, but I did clear myself from the rest of the traffic on the highway.


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Old 01-23-2014, 07:43 AM
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Bad about the catch!!! But pushing through the gears on manual mode and sport, not using the full auto, when the weather is better and if you have the time, is a way to go, long motorway cruises get the oil upto temp but do not push through the gears,
Hope this helps???
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Old 01-23-2014, 08:36 AM
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roseng roseng is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 2BAGolfer View Post
This has happened to me twice so now im a little concerned and thought i would consult this knowledgable group, before I go to the dealer and let him try to blow smoke up my well you know what.
here is the scenario Im on the highway and driving around highway speed 55 ish. The vehicle in front is a little slow to my right I see an opening to pass, but as usual some jackass want to try to speed up for no reason to try to block me, so I just step on it and pass in front of him while doing so my vehicle seem to get stuck in a gear. During the move I generated more than enough torque to go around and get out in front of both vehicles, but the transmission warning came on and the car seemed like it wouldnt shift gears just keep increasing revolutions. So I pulled to the side of the road put car in park and warning went away then re-entered highway and no more problems, though I didnt try to step on it again. Fast forward one month same scenario, I have nt had any transmission issues so didnt think twice before doing the fast get around again transmission warning, which suggest moderate driving and go to BMW center. I pull over put in park warning doesnt go away. This time turn off engine and re-start then warning goes away and Im able to continue driving. Havent had problems since, but dont drive very often just once a week. Im wondering could this be the beginning of a real problem or is it a problem now and I just dont know. Any help is appreciated.
I had not had a chance to start a thread yet about Trans fluid but I was about to. My '07 650 just turned 60k miles. Occasionally the trans would feel a bit "Notchy" almost jerky. I tried the trans reset but no big change.

My indie told me that 100k is the fluid change mark and unless there is an issue don't change it. I decided that this was enough of an issue and to give it a try.

2 weeks ago I had him do the fluid change. There are 2 ways to do the change. You can simply drain and refill. This method will replace about 60% of the fluid since a lot gets left in the pan and filter. You can also drop the pan and filter and do the full pop. Normally since the pan is plastic it is best to replace it. Also if it's not put on when the car is completely cold it will likely warp and leak.

I did the fluid change only, to see if it would help, and immediately the trans felt smoother and overall tighter shifting.

The bill was under $300.00 and was a good investment. I would recommend you consider either route and do the reset and see how it goes. Since you are having some more serious issues than I did you might want to to the full pan/filter route.

I would not wait too long as something is going on, and you could save a lot of money by being pro-active now.
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Old 01-23-2014, 09:51 AM
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Hi ! great that a transmission oil change made a real difference and dropping or replacing the pan only changes 5.5ltrs on the automatic box, the rest sits inside the Torque converter about 4.5ltrs approx 9ltrs total.
Not many have the tools to drain the total system so only end up doing the 5.5ltrs.
Many others will do multiple drains on the principle of mix old and new till it is more new.
Given that the price of BMW transmission fluid is very very expensive, most just stick with the 5.5ltrs and this seems to make a big difference.
Those that do the multiple changes probably do not use BMW transmission fluid, this I would consider is a risky practice ?????
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Old 01-23-2014, 10:19 AM
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This was very helpful thanks. I will do this when weather breaks. I don't trust myself in sport mode though. I accessed it one time and the responsiveness was so good I wanted to see how fast or quick I could go. Lucky for me my daughter was in the car so I shut it down. I could see me getting a lot of tickets driving in sport mode.


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Old 01-23-2014, 10:25 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by roseng View Post
I had not had a chance to start a thread yet about Trans fluid but I was about to. My '07 650 just turned 60k miles. Occasionally the trans would feel a bit "Notchy" almost jerky. I tried the trans reset but no big change.

My indie told me that 100k is the fluid change mark and unless there is an issue don't change it. I decided that this was enough of an issue and to give it a try.

2 weeks ago I had him do the fluid change. There are 2 ways to do the change. You can simply drain and refill. This method will replace about 60% of the fluid since a lot gets left in the pan and filter. You can also drop the pan and filter and do the full pop. Normally since the pan is plastic it is best to replace it. Also if it's not put on when the car is completely cold it will likely warp and leak.

I did the fluid change only, to see if it would help, and immediately the trans felt smoother and overall tighter shifting.

The bill was under $300.00 and was a good investment. I would recommend you consider either route and do the reset and see how it goes. Since you are having some more serious issues than I did you might want to to the full pan/filter route.

I would not wait too long as something is going on, and you could save a lot of money by being pro-active now.
Thanks for your input Gary! I plan on getting this done soon.


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Old 01-23-2014, 10:29 AM
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To the OP, here is a website where you can get the fluid and oil pan.

http://www.thectsc.com/products/oil-...ce-186-50.html

The kit does not include a pan gasket or sealing sleeve, so you will need to purchase those separately. I also believe that you may need new bolts for the pan as well.


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Old 01-23-2014, 10:41 AM
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Since the pan/filter is listed as lifetime would this be considered a warranty item/repair and covered under extended warranty?
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Old 01-23-2014, 10:44 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 2BAGolfer View Post
Since the pan/filter is listed as lifetime would this be considered a warranty item/repair and covered under extended warranty?
That's a tough one.

When the transmission fails, it will be covered under warranty. Question is when will it fail?


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Old 01-23-2014, 02:46 PM
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The pan generally fails because it is plastic and eventually cracks leading to leaks. they change the sleeve at the same time because it is also a source of leaks and can only be changed when the pan is off. Plus the filter is built into the pan........
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Old 01-23-2014, 05:11 PM
HerbP HerbP is offline
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The fluid & filter change would be a maintenance item, & not a repair. If your seal or pan are leaking, then they will pick up most of the cost. The tranny will shift a lot smoother with a new filter & fluid.

Good Luck!
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Old 01-23-2014, 05:14 PM
Skarv Skarv is offline
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In my pursuit of total maintenance and tightening up the shifting on my car when I bought it, I changed the fluid... about 20k mi ago. I did a double drain to try to get as much of the fluid out as possible, and as mentioned above, if you do this with BMW fluid at $20 - $30 per quart, it gets expensive. So I researched a bit and found out that BMW tranny fluid is nothing more than Ford MERCON SP which cost around $6 per quart. Car has run like a champ for all those miles so you can add that experience to your decision.

There are many threads discussing fluids, and this one gets almost religious, but given that BMW is not the only maker using ZF transmissions, I didn't think it was a risk in the same class as changing their coolant.. where they are the maker of the engine.

Anyway, thats my experience.
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