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Go Back   Bimmerfest - BMW Forums > BMW Model Discussions > 5 Series > E39 (1997 - 2003)

E39 (1997 - 2003)
The BMW 5-Series (E39 chassis) was introduced in the United States as a 1997 model year car and lasted until the 2004 when the E60 chassis was released. The United States saw several variations including the 525i, 528i, 530i and 540i. -- View the E39 Wiki

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  #1  
Old 04-02-2011, 08:25 PM
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ztom ztom is offline
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Location: Thousand Oaks CA
 
Join Date: Sep 2007
Posts: 844
Mein Auto: 1997 528i
Hood release cable broke...

...got the cable out, here are notes, may help others. Will post pics.

)) (Bowden) Cable fatigued and broke at lever on kick panel.
)) Remove screws under dash enough to bend under-panel away from kick panel.
)) Turn hood lever & remove plastic screw
)) See curved plastic along door runner, pry up along runner, use flashlight to see 3 plastic pins to pop up to remove piece
)) Pull kick panel towards rear, enough to get fingers in to unplug trunk release cable
)) Pull & twist to get kick panel out
)) Grab using pliers on what's left of cable to release hood
)) In engine bay remove drivers side cabin air box via wire clamp
)) In bay along where hood closes, drivers side, find & undo cable junction box, then disconnect cable coming from cabin
)) On firewall find very soft grommet, use screwdriver to push grommet in, remove cable including sheath by pulling it from cabin

)) I removed the rods on the hood that secure the hood when dropped to close, for now, to make sure I didn't close the hood all the way until I replace cable, about $30

BMW should have done better on this cable design in my opinion, should be beefier.

Last edited by ztom; 04-02-2011 at 09:30 PM.
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  #2  
Old 04-13-2011, 10:21 PM
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ztom ztom is offline
I gotta have more cowbell
Location: Thousand Oaks CA
 
Join Date: Sep 2007
Posts: 844
Mein Auto: 1997 528i
update - new cable installed, went easy except in reinstalling the kick panel, got it done but took a long time to figure out how to position the panel to insert. Here's what I did, may help others:

Reinstall the kick panel, drivers side:
>Make sure the trunk release cable that you disconnected is out of the way, don't want to break it as the plastic is pushed back on
>Try to get the bottom of the kick panel in first. This requires tilting the top of the panel to the right, then you need to bend the panel a little as you push the top of the panel back to the left.
>The panel should be about 1" sticking out (rearward), enough to get your fingers in to connect up the trunk wires to the switch on the panel.
>Wiggle, push, etc to get the panel to move in (ie towards the front of the car). I sat in the seat and used my foot to push. Near the end of travel, take a screwdriver to bring the rubber moulding out and over the kick panel.
>The under-dash panel will sit on top of the kick panel. Bend the panel at the corner towards the front of the car and get it to sit between plastic tabs at the top of the kick panel.

Last edited by ztom; 04-13-2011 at 10:24 PM.
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  #3  
Old 04-13-2011, 11:35 PM
bobdmac bobdmac is online now
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Thanks, ztom. Those niggling re-assembly problems are always so frustrating because you feel like you've done the repair, and there shouldn't be any more issues.
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  #4  
Old 04-14-2011, 12:13 AM
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bluebee bluebee is offline
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I started to put this excellent step-by-step hood-release cable R&R DIY into the bestlinks when I realized there were already a few hood-release DIYs listed.

So, taking a look at what's already there (put there by others so I'm unfamiliar with them) simply by doing a quick /hood(F3), I find 5 references:
Hood Release Cable Maintenance
Hood Release Cable Replacement
Hood Release Cable Maintenance DIY
Hood Release Cable Replacement DIY
Hood Release Cable Replacement (2) DIY

Then, culling out the duplicates and checking to see if they're all alive ... we end up with three useful threads for this topic in the bestlinks:
Hood Release Cable Maintenance DIY (1998 528i), by cnn
Hood Release Cable Replacement, by larinah
Bowden cable replacement guide, by edwin
To which, we can add this thread:
Hood release cable broke..., by ztom

It turns out each of these listed hood-release DIYs has tons of closeup pictures of the job from every angle (both from the engine compartment and from the inside cockpit).

So that this effort is leveraged to all future users, I'll add this to the existing keyword-rich line for the hood:
- How to understand the BMW E39 EWS alarm drive-away protection system (1) (2) & troubleshoot the alarm & hood switch (1) (2) (3) (4) or replace the siren (1) or disable the unlock chirp (1) (2)

To make that line:
- How to understand the BMW E39 EWS alarm drive-away protection system (1) (2) & troubleshoot the alarm & hood switch (1) (2) (3) (4) or replace the siren (1) or disable the unlock chirp (1) (2) & how to maintain (1) and repair your hood release bowden cable (1) (2) (3).

As always, if you know of better references, please improve (so that all benefit from every action).

In case those websites go down, here are the pictures, shrunken to 640x480 pixels.

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  #5  
Old 04-14-2011, 12:17 AM
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bluebee bluebee is offline
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There were so many pictures in those hood-release DIY three reference threads that I had to split them among two posts.
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  #6  
Old 05-20-2011, 11:28 AM
gakavaar gakavaar is offline
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Location: Tucson
 
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Mein Auto: 2006 760Li
Hood release cable broke 760Li

Any idea out there for 2006 760Li. Our hood release cable broke last August, the car has been sitting in the garage with little to no oil in it, the car has less than 40,000 mile. Help anyone.
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  #7  
Old 05-20-2011, 11:47 AM
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540 M-Sport 540 M-Sport is offline
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Mein Auto: 01' 540 M-Sport cdn, F355
You have a car that cost over 100k when new. The hood cable breaks, you continue driving until the low oil light comes on...and since you cannot add oi, and are apparently too cheap to fix the cable, you parked it? Remind me never to buy a car from you....
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  #8  
Old 05-20-2011, 01:14 PM
gakavaar gakavaar is offline
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Location: Tucson
 
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Hood release cable broke

WOW! Thank-you for putting it all in perspective for me. Nice to know there is someone out there who has not suffered from the recession and a medical disaster. To bad it was you ! Good Job Buddy
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  #9  
Old 05-20-2011, 02:12 PM
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540 M-Sport 540 M-Sport is offline
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Location: Seattle, WA
 
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Mein Auto: 01' 540 M-Sport cdn, F355
Trust me, I have suffered plenty, (the depressing details are not relevant) but I have "hung in there" by trimming back and staying within my means. That is why I continue to drive much older cars that yours....

My (insensitive) point is why risk ruining the motor, over a $300 bill to fix the hood cable so you can get some oil in the engine? Easily $35k to replace that V12.
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  #10  
Old 05-20-2011, 03:03 PM
gakavaar gakavaar is offline
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If the bill had been 300.00 I would not be asking for help ! Hopefully someone out there gets it. Simply put the HOOD RELEASE CABLE SNAPPED. Went to get my oil changed pulled on the latch to no avail. Took it to BMW, so sorry they will have to drill through the hood, because sir there is FOUR LATCHES connected to that cable ! My husband has spent hours trying to figure a way to get the hood open. I hope to get a solution or a worthy suggestion. For those who think they may be able to help I look forward to your response. You 540M-Sport have wasted enough of time and need to get a life !
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  #11  
Old 05-20-2011, 04:24 PM
cn90 cn90 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gakavaar View Post
... Simply put the HOOD RELEASE CABLE SNAPPED. Went to get my oil changed pulled on the latch to no avail.
The hood cable has many sections/junctions.
It always starts in the cabin. Check to be sure it does not become disconnected from the cabin lever.

Check also www.realoem.com for the diagram of your car.


Browse these photos and see what you can get out of it:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/2810754...n/photostream/
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  #12  
Old 02-15-2013, 09:05 AM
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bluebee bluebee is offline
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For cross reference, a decent hood-release broken-cable repair was discussed in this thread today:
> 5 Series > E39 (1997 - 2003) > Hood won't open

EDIT: Here's another one today:
Quote:
Originally Posted by L0F View Post
So I lubed up all the Bowden cables, blasted T-9 through the full length of all three housings. Pulled the latches out, degreased and cleaned all the grime and filth off and out of them, and then re oiled.

Everything is properly aligned, the hood release lever pulls super smooth and easy, but the hood doesn't pop. I think the springs on the male part of the latches aren't as springy as they should be. So if I pull the lever I need someone to pull up on the hood simultaneously to get her open.

Anyone else have this problem? If so how did you fix it? I'm thinking ill track down some heavy springs and swap em with the current ones and see what happens.

Just to reiterate, all Bowden cables are I good shape and properly routed, also hood pins and latches are properly aligned. I think that the springs just are sprung anymore.
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Each repair should invariably add to our knowledge base by the process of inexorable incrementalism.
Your job, in return, is to read the suggested threads, where the best people will always add value to those threads, either by pictures or by descriptions, so the next person with the same problem stands on your shoulders.
See also: E39 Bestlinks & How to easily find what you need

Last edited by bluebee; 03-31-2013 at 08:46 PM.
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  #13  
Old 01-26-2014, 10:25 PM
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bluebee bluebee is offline
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Location: San Jose, California
 
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Mein Auto: 02 BMW 525i M54 auto 130K
Another one was reported today, this one with pictures:
> E39 (1997 - 2003) > E39 hood/bonnet release lever/gear
Quote:
Originally Posted by brandonscott11 View Post
Whats up everyone, i want to know how do i get the cable back into the gear thing that turns when you pull the lever seen in below pics

__________________
Each repair should invariably add to our knowledge base by the process of inexorable incrementalism.
Your job, in return, is to read the suggested threads, where the best people will always add value to those threads, either by pictures or by descriptions, so the next person with the same problem stands on your shoulders.
See also: E39 Bestlinks & How to easily find what you need
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  #14  
Old 05-13-2014, 11:06 PM
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bluebee bluebee is offline
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A related thread popped up today:
> E39 (1997 - 2003) > Hood Pops itself open at high speeds!
Quote:
Originally Posted by blackontan View Post
1999 E39 540i Sport

When driving at high speeds, sometimes 60-70 but more often above 100 the hood pops itself open!
The safety latch does hold it, but this makes me extremely nervous! I had a cutlass supreme that did this, one or twice and the third time the hood completely opened, smashed against the windshield and immediately ripped the hinges off, the hood then almost hit the car behind me!
Is this a common thing or how do i fix it? I guess i could go about wd40 or greasing certain areas but i figured I would turn to the gurus prior to my own guess of fixing it.
thanks in advance!
Quote:
Originally Posted by QSilver7 View Post
There are 2 latches that must be released under normal circumstances...for those whose hood is lifting up at speed...can you tell us which latch is failing? Once you pull the hood release handle inside the cabin...can the hood be lifted up without releasing the safety release lever (that sticks out of the grill)? Or can the hood be lifted up by only releasing the 2nd safetylatch (in the grill) without using the 1st release inside the cabin?

Is there enough familiarity with the hood catches (bowden cables, catches' & release levers) to deduce which or if both catches are failing to do their jobs?
Quote:
Originally Posted by cn90 View Post
I wrote some info on hood cable maintenance below, HTH:

http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/sho...d.php?t=441868
Quote:
Originally Posted by djmjd View Post
Check the latch strikers in the core support. Make sure the wire catches move freely. Lube them liberally with spray grease.

Look at the latch projections on the hood. Each projection threads into a plate that is attached by two torx screws. The torx screws can be loosened to adjust the axial alignment. If they are loose this may be the, but I would expect they are tight, in which case the axial alignment is probably fine. You can test the axial alignment by marking it with some paint (white out) and seeing where it deposits on the latch striker. Again unless the torx screws are loose this is unlikely to be the problem. Check the lock nut holding the projection depth adjustment. I've seen far more of these loosen. To adjust this I like to do one side at a time (completely unscrew the projection on the other side - note the slot in the end of the projection fits a screw driver) It's a trial and error thing to set the depth, once you figure out what the correct depth adjustment is (by counting exposed threads) you can do the other side. When you reassemble, make sure the lock nuts are tight.

Also, if you're driving "above 100" on public streets, go F*** yourself.
Quote:
Originally Posted by blackontan View Post
I tried to use the cabin hood latch release and it worked but made a snapping noise... now the cabin latch moves freely and now I cant get the hood open.....
I assume I need to see if its broke near the cabin latch.
Secondly how do i open the hood now.
third where to source the cable if it is not the latch.. ebay... which one of these would goto the cabin latch....
http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_trks...at=0&_from=R40
Quote:
Originally Posted by QSilver7 View Post
Item #12 is the hood release mechanism and cable attached to the release handle in the cabin that runs into the engine bay. Item #22 is the bowden cable that continues around to the lock. Click the link below to get the 11 digit BMW part nbrs which you can search the internet for vendors & check with your local BMW dealership (may be price competitive or cheaper w/local tax vs shipping charges). Once you have the 11digit BMW part nbr...just type "BMW xx xx x xxx xxx" (where x=bmw part nbr digits) into a google search box...can't get any simpler now days. :

Quote:
Originally Posted by blackontan View Post
QSilver7,
THANK YOU, I ordered part #15 from the following listing:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/130935892518...84.m1439.l2649
This listing crossref's to my 1999 540i sport. So i ordered it.

Thank you, I will post a reply with my progress...

Part #12 in QSilver's previous attachment is the same as my ordered part #15 from:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/130935892518...84.m1439.l2649

Otherwise, please elaborate if this cable is different(assuming all E39 cabin latch to boden rig cable are the same For all years or variants) for future enthusiasts.
__________________
Each repair should invariably add to our knowledge base by the process of inexorable incrementalism.
Your job, in return, is to read the suggested threads, where the best people will always add value to those threads, either by pictures or by descriptions, so the next person with the same problem stands on your shoulders.
See also: E39 Bestlinks & How to easily find what you need

Last edited by bluebee; 05-13-2014 at 11:07 PM.
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