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E34 (1989 - 1995)

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  #76  
Old 02-18-2014, 05:07 PM
MySatinDoll MySatinDoll is offline
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Mein Auto: 1995 e34 S52b32/5
Quote:
Originally Posted by mda185 View Post
ASC was an option on 525i. My touring has it also. If you putting a turbo on it, the ASC will have to go. You will have to recode the ASC/ABS computer at that point or it will constantly throw error codes. Another option is to just swap in the ABS computer from my parts car. I am pretty sure it does not have ASC.

525i came with 3.23 diff if it had a manual 5 speed. If it had an automatic, the diff was a 4.10. Good idea to swap in the 3.46. That is a great performance ratio for this car and if it has ASC, it probably does not have limited slip diff.
Yeah the 3.23 kicked out a little in the snow but the asc also brought it back to a stable state.
Removing it will definitely help.

Truth be told when you have a moment. I do need to see what's under there.
The job the po did feels spot on. Just out of my own curiosity I want to see what he did
under the car.

Quote:
Originally Posted by imae34driver View Post
Well i sorta agree.. Sorta not..

3.46 is probably like ideal on the street and overall yes. Until he has boost, then the longer ratio is better to keep it in the spool zone. 3.23 is probably then perfect.
Not exactly. Tall gearing like a 3.23 works better for the V8s than the I6 cars.
a more match made in heaven diff would be the 3.46LSD to move the land yacht around.
IE. Zaraki's perfect ratio would have been 3.73 or a 3.91. for first and second came too quick
Making third and 4th the sweet spots on a 3.46.
Now Ms snow is no slouch but I think it would be a better rev match with the 3.46 for it's already a hi rev engine. I should be able to take advantage of the same sweet spots and achieve higher results.

Quote:
Originally Posted by mda185 View Post

In my experience with the E34, ASC is really good to have with new or bad drivers in the family but a good driver with limited slip diff will be just fine without it. Given that my daughter turns 16 in another month, I will be leaving ASC on my touring.
^ this. I resemble this remark... the good driver part.
Quote:
Originally Posted by E34ZombieHunter View Post
Turn ASC off with the button, or take out the secondary butterfly so it thinks it is doing something, but is not.
I've had it off for the most part only to put it back on when the family is with me.
But yes I will be removing it soon. I have another ABS computer from the 535i. It's just checking to see if it's compatible (I doubt it.)

BTW I just realized that the name Brooklyn Snow sounds a bit porno / 007 ish.

I just won't tell the commissioner.
__________________

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Every once in a while the Lion has to show the Jackals who he is...
- Christopher Walken "The Lion Speech"
95 e34 525 5 spd S52 Swap... The new Garden State Grocery Getter projekt.

Last edited by MySatinDoll; 02-18-2014 at 05:11 PM.
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  #77  
Old 02-23-2014, 04:22 PM
MySatinDoll MySatinDoll is offline
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Update...

So far Brooklyn has been pretty solid.
I just completed 98% of the tune up by doing the oil, plugs, both air and oil filters, finally changing out the head gaskets.
Found out the intake hose was the original one.
For it started to crack and break while moving it to pull the air box and MAF out to do the filter.
Yes!!! the PO put in a K&N drop in. A simple clean and recharge will bring it back.

Everything is still a bit foreign to me. I chalked it off to my history with m30s and m20s.
I told a friend of mine that I'm acting like a e34 noob when it comes to the new car.
Trying to be careful with everything and keeping an eye on what I'm moving about.

However I did make some swap progress (pics to come I promise)

I've already swapped the rear tails and rear euro filler plate.
As well I put the memory sport seats and rear seats with headrests and e32 arm rest.
Next is the headlights and suspension goodies.
I'm waiting to do the center console, m5 shift surround and VDO/AEM gauges till I delete the ASC.

Unfortunately I did a bone head move. Well not actually but it was stupid none the less.
With the thule rack on I decided to give her a wash from the local automated car wash.

Someone's oversized taillight fell on the track which my car ran over and raised it in the air.
High enough to snatch the rack off the car.
Long story short the roof and rack were damaged.
On a good note the car wash is paying for the damage.
She goes to the body shop tomorrow.

The bad part (though the damage was bad enough) was the mgr.
He tried to play the tough guy roll and begin arguing with me of the cuff.
So I did something I normally wouldn't do.

Before the urge to wrap my hands around the guy's throat and commence to strangle the life
out of him in public in broad daylight (I have anger management issues).... I called the cops.
(more or less for me not for him)

The cops mediated the situation and found the wash in fault for not stopping me from entering the wash and for not adding (No roof racks) to their receipts and flyers.

When it was all over with I reminded the mgr that he and I know each other from my old body shop days. Embarrassed he apologized for his actions.

Next maintenance is trans fluid change.

The saga continues
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Every once in a while the Lion has to show the Jackals who he is...
- Christopher Walken "The Lion Speech"
95 e34 525 5 spd S52 Swap... The new Garden State Grocery Getter projekt.
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  #78  
Old 02-23-2014, 04:52 PM
mda185 mda185 is online now
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Mein Auto: 95 525iT w/S52, 03 530i
Bump in the road. It seems we all have a few of them in E34 world. You still got a what looks like a good car with great motor. Hopefully, the body shop will take good care of you. Is the car wash replacing the Thule rack? They aren't cheap.
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  #79  
Old 02-23-2014, 07:30 PM
MySatinDoll MySatinDoll is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mda185 View Post
Bump in the road. It seems we all have a few of them in E34 world. You still got a what looks like a good car with great motor. Hopefully, the body shop will take good care of you. Is the car wash replacing the Thule rack? They aren't cheap.
Honestly except for the fairling it's in good shape.
two clips popped and broke. The other two are ok.

Actually glad you responded.
pm coming your way.
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Every once in a while the Lion has to show the Jackals who he is...
- Christopher Walken "The Lion Speech"
95 e34 525 5 spd S52 Swap... The new Garden State Grocery Getter projekt.
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  #80  
Old 03-06-2014, 05:59 PM
MySatinDoll MySatinDoll is offline
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Today I went and picked up Brooklyn from the shop.
(Will take pictures tomorrow)
They did a pretty good job. The dents and scratches are gone on the roof.
But after inspection of the rest of the body there are some imperfections which
only I noticed. So instead of a 1ft car it's about a 7ft car. Which is ok.
It's way better than what I had to start with went I dealt with Zaraki.

I did find some small rust spots, 1/4 " spot on the a pillar by the windshield, 1" spots on the lower part of the front doors, 1/8" spot around the gas door.
Which I will Sand out, prime once it gets warm. Actually for other reasons, I will be removing the front left door and replacing it with Zaraki's door.

Heading out to A&W Ferrari and import auto parts tomorrow to pick up some diff and trans fluid.
Then the plan is to remove the KW coilovers and enlarged sway bars from Zaraki and begin to clean them up.

I have two cans of left over Red caliper paint and a few prime cans. Thinking of repainting
them red just for the contrast.

Finally my rotors and pads came for the brembo 4 piston calipers. Got to love JCwhitney.

Now before the flames rise, a little info.

JCwhitney has brembo,and Stoptech Rotors. You just need supply the Brembo and Stoptech part numbers....And they are cheaper.

I will wait till there is zero snow or chance of snow before I put them on.
Only because I will be required to fit 17 and/or 18 inch rims on the car.
Considering I was planning to put them on in april fitting my rondells on isn't going to happen now.

As well I decided to upgrade my stereo system. I purchase a few goodies.

One old school favorite Alpine CDA-7998 and I purchased another soundstream amp to push the near fields.

As I dismantle Zaraki, I will also remove the 3.64lsd which from what I've been seeing is the more optimal diff to use.

But first things first, head over to A&W and pick up the go-go fluids.
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Every once in a while the Lion has to show the Jackals who he is...
- Christopher Walken "The Lion Speech"
95 e34 525 5 spd S52 Swap... The new Garden State Grocery Getter projekt.

Last edited by MySatinDoll; 03-06-2014 at 06:01 PM.
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  #81  
Old 03-06-2014, 06:05 PM
E34ZombieHunter's Avatar
E34ZombieHunter E34ZombieHunter is offline
Nothin like an E34
Location: Lillington NC
 
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Mein Auto: 95 540i B/B
Ok you seem to know a lot about the E34 brakes, out of the many E34's i have driven mine stops quicker by far, no comparison even to the other 540i's i have driven.

I can go 55 to 0 in a few seconds. When i slow very fast it sounds like an airplane going overhead.
How can i tell aside from names on the rotors/pads what they are?
I have driller and slotted rotors. But have not noticed any names, p/n when i had the wheels, but have not looked yet specifically what they are.
The only others i have seen for mine were amazon and they were dimpled not drilled, and were 300$ a rotor.
BTW so far i have only looked at the normal auto stores, not checked other places like JCW
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  #82  
Old 03-06-2014, 06:29 PM
MySatinDoll MySatinDoll is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by E34ZombieHunter View Post
Ok you seem to know a lot about the E34 brakes, out of the many E34's i have driven mine stops quicker by far, no comparison even to the other 540i's i have driven.

I can go 55 to 0 in a few seconds. When i slow very fast it sounds like an airplane going overhead.
How can i tell aside from names on the rotors/pads what they are?
I have driller and slotted rotors. But have not noticed any names, p/n when i had the wheels, but have not looked yet specifically what they are.
The only others i have seen for mine were amazon and they were dimpled not drilled, and were 300$ a rotor.
BTW so far i have only looked at the normal auto stores, not checked other places like JCW
Truth betold out of all the e34s, 540s have probably the best front to rear braking bias. I forgot the actual numbers. Check out this link for specifics bmwe34.net Brake upgrade
But as a reference, to get a perfect bias using 4 piston calipers. It is said to use the rear brakes of the 540 model. So you have a winning set there zombie.

For drilled and/or slotted rotors you have to really search.
I like to do things perfect the first time which does sometime places dents in the commissioners weekly allowance (meaning what she allows me to buy per week).
However I like... no love to find deals on stuff to save that coin.

Searching for my rotors I went to all the normal spots, pelican, BMA, Autohauz, FCPeuro,
ECS tuning, Bavauto, BMP, even my old supplier Schmiedmann.
I'd got a ball park of what I should pay retail. In my case for plain brembo blanks,
My ballparks figure was 180-190 for the pair shipped.

Not a bad price for them but I didn't want to pay that. So I visited manufacture sights which offer online stores. Stoptech is one of them. They had the pair for 160-170 shipped under their brand.

Last I hit the wholesalers Rock auto, Parts geek, and JCwhitney.

JC whitney by far had them the cheapest under the brembo brand for 120-130 for the pair shipped with the pads making delivery free.( the cost of the pads made it free ship)

Being there are so many dimpled/slotted, and drilled rotors out there We could play go fish unless you see a brand stamp on the inside of the rotor.

I opted out of the slotted and drilled rotors. I don't do enough hard driving to validate buying them.
The brembos was purchased for increased stopping power once I boost it.
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Every once in a while the Lion has to show the Jackals who he is...
- Christopher Walken "The Lion Speech"
95 e34 525 5 spd S52 Swap... The new Garden State Grocery Getter projekt.

Last edited by MySatinDoll; 03-06-2014 at 06:35 PM.
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  #83  
Old 03-06-2014, 06:35 PM
MySatinDoll MySatinDoll is offline
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Found that info for you from the above link.

Brake balance: front/rear:

The type of brakes you install on your car has a large influence on how the car feels and handles, especially when driven hard. BMWs with semi-trailing-arm rear suspension tend to have some squat under acceleration and a certain amount of dive under hard braking.
For example, certain choices of front or rear brakes will increase the front brake bias over stock, which will obviously exacerbate the brake dive problem--not a good thing! Changing the bias will also affect the car's susceptibility to having the ABS kick in prematurely on the front or rear axle. Finally, it affects pedal travel--a lower-torque brake setup will require more pedal travel for the same amount of braking force compared to another setup. Even if you change the front and rear brakes simultaneously and maintain something close to the stock bias, if the new brakes are lower torque than the stock brakes you'll end up with more pedal travel. With some cars this can even mean having to change the master cylinder to a higher-volume unit.



To give an example, the E34 540i brakes develop 686 lb-ft of torque on the fronts at 500 psi line pressure; the rears produce 313 LB-ft, so the f:r bias is 69:31 (as a percentage). Adding the M5 front brake (rears are the same on US E34 M5's), which generates 720 LB-ft, changes the bias to 70:30. The '95 Euro M5 brakes generate 646 LB-ft front and 336 LB-ft rear, giving a bias of 66:34. Everyone raves about this setup, which is interesting as the front brakes actually generate LESS torque than the earlier E34 M5 (or the 540i, for that matter)! Chances are that this perception of awesome brakes has more to do with the better balance front-to-rear than the massive cooling capability, which only comes into play when you're driving the piss out of the car and the brakes are generating many kilowatts of heat. Unless you go to the track, you'll never encounter that aspect of their performance

Here's where it gets interesting: the 850i single-piston front brake (like I have) generates 737 LB-ft, the highest of any BMW brake I know of. I assume you put the 540i rears (313 LB-ft) on your car, so the bias is 70:30, same as the US E34 M5. However, if you instead use the later 840i/850i (not CSi) brakes, which generate only 593 LB-ft of torque, the bias would be 65:35--very close to the Euro '95 M5 brakes. I believe, though haven't proven it yet, that this might be the ideal setup for the majority of E34 owners who don't want to spend the huge bucks for the '95 M5 brakes. It's still not cheap, but it's half the price of the alternative.
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Every once in a while the Lion has to show the Jackals who he is...
- Christopher Walken "The Lion Speech"
95 e34 525 5 spd S52 Swap... The new Garden State Grocery Getter projekt.

Last edited by MySatinDoll; 03-06-2014 at 06:37 PM.
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  #84  
Old 03-06-2014, 06:51 PM
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E34ZombieHunter E34ZombieHunter is offline
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Location: Lillington NC
 
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Mein Auto: 95 540i B/B
Yea you lost me LOL.

I have done no brake work to the car aside from a line.
ABS kicks in immediately if i have to stop quick as if there is too much stopping power being applied, obviously.
Tires are AA traction, and the roads here have just been paved with some new rough stuff that aids in traction.
Example
A girl pulled out in from of me two days ago, i was doing ~60 and she was 30ft or less from me when she started out(I'm not good with distance but know the area well), i jammed the brakes and it stopped exactly at the spot she pulled out at with a little skid just as i stopped. ABS working the entire time.

I am not into the technicals yet i just know the basics, it stops FAST and when i start having to replace the items i want to know what i should be doing, not lie the cheap stuff i throw at my jeep.
I know some stuff on my car was upgraded to nicer performance products and I'm wondering if the brake components are on that list. Calipers are also rather large if that makes a difference in helping explain this to me.

Also seems my Parking brake only works on driver side, sound like worn shoes to you?
I ordered the rebuild kit anyways, but have not gotten it yet to rebuild both sides.
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Gotta love an E34!!
If you want to get junkyard parts remember one thing, if it was wrecked you know it was running/driving. You may not know how well, but it was.

READ THE STICKIES AT THE TOP OF THE PAGE!!

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READ ME IM THE BIBLE

FAN CLUTCH

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  #85  
Old 03-06-2014, 06:54 PM
MySatinDoll MySatinDoll is offline
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After speaking to MDA185 another e34 s52 owner. We concurred that because this is a new animal to me and I have no prior records. It would be best to get the immediate maintenance parts installed so I can begin at point zero.
So I ordered new pulleys, tensioners, thermostat and water pump.
My radiator seems to be unmolested or damaged and the hoses seem to be new.
So these items were seen to be the first to replace.

From our conversation, and other m5x/s5x owners can probably relate.
The water pump is one of the more failure prone due to the fact they have either metal or plastic compound propellers. Being the m30 had the same issue I ordered the metal propeller for I didn't want the water pump to fail prematurely due to plastic meltdown.
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Every once in a while the Lion has to show the Jackals who he is...
- Christopher Walken "The Lion Speech"
95 e34 525 5 spd S52 Swap... The new Garden State Grocery Getter projekt.
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  #86  
Old 03-06-2014, 07:09 PM
MySatinDoll MySatinDoll is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by E34ZombieHunter View Post
Yea you lost me LOL.

I have done no brake work to the car aside from a line.
ABS kicks in immediately if i have to stop quick as if there is too much stopping power being applied, obviously.
Tires are AA traction, and the roads here have just been paved with some new rough stuff that aids in traction.
Example
A girl pulled out in from of me two days ago, i was doing ~60 and she was 30ft or less from me when she started out(I'm not good with distance but know the area well), i jammed the brakes and it stopped exactly at the spot she pulled out at with a little skid just as i stopped. ABS working the entire time.

I am not into the technicals yet i just know the basics, it stops FAST and when i start having to replace the items i want to know what i should be doing, not lie the cheap stuff i throw at my jeep.
I know some stuff on my car was upgraded to nicer performance products and I'm wondering if the brake components are on that list. Calipers are also rather large if that makes a difference in helping explain this to me.

Also seems my Parking brake only works on driver side, sound like worn shoes to you?
I ordered the rebuild kit anyways, but have not gotten it yet to rebuild both sides.
Oh. Oops

Our cars have some of the best stopping times of most sedans on the road.

I will say this if you change your own brakes (which I'm pretty sure you do) As long as the pistons and guides do not seize up your good. Which leaves you with your rotors and pads to worry about.

Again I'm a frugal buyer. I am the guy who will go to pepboys or autozone for pads for they are wear items and the general lifespan is exactly the same as the more expensive stuff.
And unless your tracking your car like Ima, or you've begun to build a monster build with insane RWHP. It's all preference. I've used hawk, EBC, Ray bestos, etc. All providing the same end result... replacement after wear down. Asbestos pads are good (if you can find them), semi metallic pads are good also (the majority of pads).
When you get into the more expensive compounds again ask the question "Are you racing the car or just daily driving?"

Now rotors... not so much. Rotors really depend on the quality. As well they last longer so the replacement value is a little higher.
As far as manufacturers go... I'd recommend staying around OEM. Brembo, Zimmermann, Meyle, and BMW factory replacements.
You can cheap out on them.(which sounds a little contradictory) but I'd go no further down than centric. Meaning you can go with retail aftermarket but no ebay rotors.
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Every once in a while the Lion has to show the Jackals who he is...
- Christopher Walken "The Lion Speech"
95 e34 525 5 spd S52 Swap... The new Garden State Grocery Getter projekt.

Last edited by MySatinDoll; 03-06-2014 at 07:11 PM.
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  #87  
Old 03-28-2014, 08:55 AM
MySatinDoll MySatinDoll is offline
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Ok. Failed inspection again.
After some thought I'm going to change out the plugs.
They are NGKs but the dual prong not single prong.
Being the issue is running rich. I'm thinking the plugs may not be doing the job
of burning the fuel completely. So considering today is a nice day.
I'm going to add new plugs to may to do list.

Today I'm expecting some stuff to come in.
I decided to run with the ECS Tuning SS brake lines for they were cost effective and I haven't heard any complaints about them.
A&W didn't have the Super Blue due to the recall.
So I bought went with ATE Gold which is said to be identical to super blue just gold.


Finally the KWs are done (well the front struts) The darn adjustable perch seized.
I took everything to it except fire and C4. After a quick thought it's not a big deal.
They work and I have no plans to raise it. F'it rock out son, rock out.

The only anticipation of performance are the new springs. I eliminated the KW helper spring
from the front and opted for some Hypercoils. The helper springs will go on the rear struts to help with the rear softness.
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Every once in a while the Lion has to show the Jackals who he is...
- Christopher Walken "The Lion Speech"
95 e34 525 5 spd S52 Swap... The new Garden State Grocery Getter projekt.
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  #88  
Old 03-28-2014, 11:30 AM
mda185 mda185 is online now
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Mein Auto: 95 525iT w/S52, 03 530i
What are your HC and O2 numbers at idle and at the higher rpm they test at? If your engine is like mine, it only fails for HC at idle. I am beginning to wonder if the advice I got about vacuum leaks causing the high O2 may not be the root cause. It might be a combination of too much fuel scheduled by these aftermarket chips and that the S52 cams have too much overlap at idle. I don't know if you realize this but the OBD II control for these engines has an O2 injection pump for the exhaust gas to promote more complete burning on cold start and get the cats up to temp quicker. I am wondering if that is part of the problem too. I don't know anyone in NJ that has an OBD I converted S52 on the street to ask.

One suggestion. Put an OBD I 525i chip in the DME and see if that passes inspection. I have one on my parts car you can borrow. Just check it out with a test drive to make sure it does not make the car run so bad that it is pointless. For that matter, just swap in the complete DME.
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  #89  
Old 03-28-2014, 01:19 PM
MySatinDoll MySatinDoll is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mda185 View Post
What are your HC and O2 numbers at idle and at the higher rpm they test at? If your engine is like mine, it only fails for HC at idle. I am beginning to wonder if the advice I got about vacuum leaks causing the high O2 may not be the root cause. It might be a combination of too much fuel scheduled by these aftermarket chips and that the S52 cams have too much overlap at idle. I don't know if you realize this but the OBD II control for these engines has an O2 injection pump for the exhaust gas to promote more complete burning on cold start and get the cats up to temp quicker. I am wondering if that is part of the problem too. I don't know anyone in NJ that has an OBD I converted S52 on the street to ask.

One suggestion. Put an OBD I 525i chip in the DME and see if that passes inspection. I have one on my parts car you can borrow. Just check it out with a test drive to make sure it does not make the car run so bad that it is pointless. For that matter, just swap in the complete DME.
At Idle:

Hc:634
CO: .57
CO2:13.4
O2: 1.2

At HighRPM:

HC:174 Passed
CO: .63 Passed
CO2: 13.7
O2: 0.9

Only person I know with a S5x swapped e34 other than yourself is a ZenOne from Bf.c.

I've read that swapping the chip if not the DME tricks the car into thinking it's a normal M5x. I think it was in your thread on Revlimited. So I'll take you up on that.
Will you be around this weekend?
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Every once in a while the Lion has to show the Jackals who he is...
- Christopher Walken "The Lion Speech"
95 e34 525 5 spd S52 Swap... The new Garden State Grocery Getter projekt.
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  #90  
Old 03-28-2014, 02:14 PM
mda185 mda185 is online now
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Mein Auto: 95 525iT w/S52, 03 530i
Joe, you have same situation as me although your idle HC is even higher than my S52. I should be around all day tomorrow working on my E39. It is leaking coolant and I am replacing all hoses, water pump, expansion tank etc in the garage assuming it will be raining. The DME is still in the black car but I will pull it in the morning if the weather holds off. I am not sure this will work. The injectors on the S52 flow more so this may not work without swapping in M50 injectors.

I just bought a cheap M52 out of a 97 328i to replace the blown S52. I'll tear down the bad engine and decide if it's worth fixing it. I still have the other S52 engine in back of my garage but now that I understand what can go wrong with an abused engine, I am checking the bottom end bearings before I do anything else with it. The clutch on that engine was severely burnt and blackened and I believe whoever owned it beat the **** out of it. I am assuming the bearings are going to need to be replaced. These experiences have really made me think twice before buying another used performance engine.

Last edited by mda185; 03-28-2014 at 02:24 PM.
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  #91  
Old 03-29-2014, 09:55 PM
MySatinDoll MySatinDoll is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mda185 View Post
Joe, you have same situation as me although your idle HC is even higher than my S52. I should be around all day tomorrow working on my E39. It is leaking coolant and I am replacing all hoses, water pump, expansion tank etc in the garage assuming it will be raining. The DME is still in the black car but I will pull it in the morning if the weather holds off. I am not sure this will work. The injectors on the S52 flow more so this may not work without swapping in M50 injectors.

I just bought a cheap M52 out of a 97 328i to replace the blown S52. I'll tear down the bad engine and decide if it's worth fixing it. I still have the other S52 engine in back of my garage but now that I understand what can go wrong with an abused engine, I am checking the bottom end bearings before I do anything else with it. The clutch on that engine was severely burnt and blackened and I believe whoever owned it beat the **** out of it. I am assuming the bearings are going to need to be replaced. These experiences have really made me think twice before buying another used performance engine.
I believe your right. Nothing seems to be out of place when it comes to the engine.
I've tried to get an idea of how a failing s5x would sound via youtube but nothing audible is similar.
I still find it funny that the car failed with low numbers the first time.
I mean I had a failing valve cover gasket leaking oil into the plug cylinders, mediocre plugs,
nasty air filter and it only failed because it was twice the limit not 3 times the limit which it is now.

So I wonder.

I've read about the guy pulling a plug to make it pass. I've tried GTP with failing results.
Maybe the dirtier it is the better?!?

I keep reading that the HC count is because of it running rich. The turner chip I have seems to be for OBD1.
I also have a hose on the left side that has been blocked off. I'm thinking that was for the secondary pump.
Now in theory, if it's running rich I need to add more air to even it out.
I say that for I'm guessing from what you said that's what the secondary pump does. Add more air.
As well driving aggressively not only heats up the cats but introduces more air flow into the intake
which is why I think we pass at high rpm for the car is pulling air in.

That said I wonder if it would pass if I threw on my old CAI from zaraki, crack the throttle plate a tad for emissions.
I came up with this from my experience with zaraki. Due to the reverse intake and the extension of the hoses.
I had to crack the throttle plate via accelerator to make it idle correctly on cold start.
Thus introducing more air into the system. With the occasional blip of the throttle He'd idle out fine.
Saying this and using this theory, bump it up from 550-600 rpm to 700-750rpm via throttle cable/plate.
Add the CAI and throw in some 108 (octane booster) just to help the clean burn process.
In theory it should bring it down to a good number if not get close to passing.

I stated 108 for that's what I used in ATL when I needed to pass emissions there
(along with the tech allowing me to put the CAI in the air) And it worked.
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Every once in a while the Lion has to show the Jackals who he is...
- Christopher Walken "The Lion Speech"
95 e34 525 5 spd S52 Swap... The new Garden State Grocery Getter projekt.

Last edited by MySatinDoll; 03-29-2014 at 09:58 PM.
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  #92  
Old 04-06-2014, 01:36 PM
MySatinDoll MySatinDoll is offline
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Since yesterday was a nice day I began the search for vacuum leaks.
Without using any additives like carb cleaner and such. I did it with a spray bottle filled with soap and water, a cfew cigarettes and used a little visual inspection.

Now I know some of you are like "WTF is Joey doing now? What's with the spray bottle with soap and water? And why are the cigarettes so important?!?"

Well Zaraki taught me a lot about looking for leaks on these cars.
Most of the time when I had a leak be it oil or vacuum I'd see some crap/oil/crap where it was leaking. The car would idle funny, or it would shake like crazy.

Well I didn't have a idle shake or funny idle.
Not knowing how a healthy M5x/S5x is supposed to sound, I couldn't tell audibly if if there was an issue.
Except that there was a hissing noise coming from the middle of the intake.
So I visually inspected the bottom of the intake. There I found one leak.
It was the idle valve hose (ICV to Manifold).

I removed the ICV with both hoses attached (PITA BTW).
Cleaned the ICV, hoses, connector, and reinstalled everything but clamped the hose going to the intake connector with a screw clamp.

Done, I lit up my trusty cigarette(s) and blew smoke through the intake and vac hoses.
Doing this I didn't find anything and was a little light headed.

Not satisfied, I then took the soap and water mix, started the car, and commenced to spray everything.
I sprayed the intake, throttle body, the injectors, the vac lines, around the valve cover, you get the picture. I sprayed everything.
The soap and water trick works like the car cleaner without the risk of fire.
I didn't find anything else, but I did refasten the vac hoses with zip ties.
I'm expecting some goodies in the mail to clean the valves (liquid moly) and a new boot to delete the ASC+T. I plan to do the emissions again this week. (fingers crossed)

After hitting a unseen and enormous man size crater going throught my local Wendy's drive thru.
I have a noise coming from the right front side.

So glad the weather has changed for the better.
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Every once in a while the Lion has to show the Jackals who he is...
- Christopher Walken "The Lion Speech"
95 e34 525 5 spd S52 Swap... The new Garden State Grocery Getter projekt.
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  #93  
Old 04-06-2014, 02:34 PM
imae34driver imae34driver is offline
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IMO the cig idea is great in theory but in practice has never worked for me personally..

If it did work i feel the leak would be so obvious id be unnecessary.. Idk.. Hi rpm with low throttle angle generates the most vacuum so idea is strong vacuum but not quiet enough to suck in noticable levels of smoke...

May just be me,.. Anyways goodluck
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1995 540i /6 speed.Black on black. C.A.I/JBR LWFW/ Dinan tune/hi flow exhuast /545 SSK /3.15 with LSD / rev-shift racing motor mounts/stage 4, 6 puck clutch/ K Sport coil overs / 19" BBS LM's / suede sparco 368 steering wheel, Recaro bucket seats, sparco 4 point harnesses, NX wet kit, M/T drag slicks
"Skill can only get you so far, then comes money!"
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  #94  
Old 04-06-2014, 10:05 PM
capricornbmw capricornbmw is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by imae34driver View Post
IMO the cig idea is great in theory but in practice has never worked for me personally..

If it did work i feel the leak would be so obvious id be unnecessary.. Idk.. Hi rpm with low throttle angle generates the most vacuum so idea is strong vacuum but not quiet enough to suck in noticable levels of smoke...

May just be me,.. Anyways goodluck
How do you create a high rpm with a low throttle angle ?

Last edited by capricornbmw; 04-06-2014 at 10:42 PM.
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  #95  
Old 04-06-2014, 10:31 PM
MySatinDoll MySatinDoll is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by imae34driver View Post
IMO the cig idea is great in theory but in practice has never worked for me personally..

If it did work i feel the leak would be so obvious id be unnecessary.. Idk.. Hi rpm with low throttle angle generates the most vacuum so idea is strong vacuum but not quiet enough to suck in noticable levels of smoke...

May just be me,.. Anyways goodluck
It's the same premise as the smoke machine method for finding vac leaks. Just you're the smoke machine.
The car wasn't on but I did crack the throttle plate to allow the smoke to creep in there.
I wouldn't suggest it if your a non smoker though. If you smoke the other tobacco maybe. Sounds like a advertisement

Marijuana... the other Tobacco

(I plead the 5th)
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Every once in a while the Lion has to show the Jackals who he is...
- Christopher Walken "The Lion Speech"
95 e34 525 5 spd S52 Swap... The new Garden State Grocery Getter projekt.
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  #96  
Old 04-07-2014, 06:37 AM
imae34driver imae34driver is offline
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Originally Posted by capricornbmw View Post
How do you create a high rpm with a low throttle angle ?
Haha, stationary you do not...

Say you where cruising at high rpm on the freeway... And let off the throttle in gear on a MT car... Thats high RPM with no throttle angle... So thats the highest vacuum available right?

As for other forms of smoke, i can attest it being heavier helps keep it in the engine bay better... But you need a small controlled stream of smoke.. Simply littering the bay with one big puff wont allow you to focus enough in one area at a time...

So your eyes cant see where it happens..
In most causes sound and the wiggle test gets me my answer.
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1995 540i /6 speed.Black on black. C.A.I/JBR LWFW/ Dinan tune/hi flow exhuast /545 SSK /3.15 with LSD / rev-shift racing motor mounts/stage 4, 6 puck clutch/ K Sport coil overs / 19" BBS LM's / suede sparco 368 steering wheel, Recaro bucket seats, sparco 4 point harnesses, NX wet kit, M/T drag slicks
"Skill can only get you so far, then comes money!"
R . I . P Paul Walker - 1973 - 2013

Last edited by imae34driver; 04-07-2014 at 06:38 AM.
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  #97  
Old 04-07-2014, 07:08 AM
mda185 mda185 is online now
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Mein Auto: 95 525iT w/S52, 03 530i
The idle valve hose and connector between it and the OBD I manifold is a PITA design. Mine was leaking badly on my 525iT before the S52 swap and I managed to break the new one during the swap. Is the ~ 1 1/2" diameter plastic fitting between the intake manifold and the ICV hose on your car still in good condition? There is an o ring to seal it to the manifold and they leak when they get old. If you did not replace the o ring and/or the plastic part, you may still have a leak. That plastic fitting is extremely hard to remove without breaking it. I always try to have a spare one around when I am doing intake manifold work. That was a lesson learned from my first OBD I intake manifold conversion on an OBD II car.
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  #98  
Old 04-07-2014, 08:23 PM
capricornbmw capricornbmw is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by imae34driver View Post
Haha, stationary you do not...

Say you where cruising at high rpm on the freeway... And let off the throttle in gear on a MT car... Thats high RPM with no throttle angle... So thats the highest vacuum available right?

As for other forms of smoke, i can attest it being heavier helps keep it in the engine bay better... But you need a small controlled stream of smoke.. Simply littering the bay with one big puff wont allow you to focus enough in one area at a time...

So your eyes cant see where it happens..
In most causes sound and the wiggle test gets me my answer.
Great, so I'm supposed to do this with the rear end jacked up? No thanks, not practical, and if you could hear the vacuum leak at that high rpm it should be severe enough to be heard very clearly at normal idle.

MySatinDoll, this would be the best vacuum leak testing trick I encountered from the archives :

http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/sho....php?p=4519113

It has certain advantages over smoke and takes less than 15 minutes to set up especially if you have a cig lighter powered portable vacuum cleaner. Vacuum leak sounds are very loud indeed when you use a hose or a mechanic's stethoscope to spot listen.
In fact I'm going to put it in einstein's thread now too.

Last edited by capricornbmw; 04-07-2014 at 08:25 PM.
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  #99  
Old 04-07-2014, 09:11 PM
MySatinDoll MySatinDoll is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by capricornbmw View Post
Great, so I'm supposed to do this with the rear end jacked up? No thanks, not practical, and if you could hear the vacuum leak at that high rpm it should be severe enough to be heard very clearly at normal idle.

MySatinDoll, this would be the best vacuum leak testing trick I encountered from the archives :

http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/sho....php?p=4519113

It has certain advantages over smoke and takes less than 15 minutes to set up especially if you have a cig lighter powered portable vacuum cleaner. Vacuum leak sounds are very loud indeed when you use a hose or a mechanic's stethoscope to spot listen.
In fact I'm going to put it in einstein's thread now too.
I saw that as well. It's the same premise as a smoke machine but...

Well played.

Hell I need a good laugh at my expense... instead of Blowing, your sucking.
In a more compromising position with a significant other or cheap date it's the same thing.

Quote:
Originally Posted by mda185 View Post
The idle valve hose and connector between it and the OBD I manifold is a PITA design. Mine was leaking badly on my 525iT before the S52 swap and I managed to break the new one during the swap. Is the ~ 1 1/2" diameter plastic fitting between the intake manifold and the ICV hose on your car still in good condition? There is an o ring to seal it to the manifold and they leak when they get old. If you did not replace the o ring and/or the plastic part, you may still have a leak. That plastic fitting is extremely hard to remove without breaking it. I always try to have a spare one around when I am doing intake manifold work. That was a lesson learned from my first OBD I intake manifold conversion on an OBD II car.
You nailed it Mark.
That POS connector was covered in dirt and oil, the aux vac hose connection which runs to
the valve cover was loose and the main hose from the connection was inching off the connector.
It was the first thing and only thing that showed fouling via smoke and spray tests.
My confidence in it is low so I ordered a new one with the O-ring from pelican.

I also found three oil pan bolts which needed retightening as well as the front right corner bolt on the pan needed replacement.
Seems the PO must had been busy fixing something via oil pan removal.
Buttoning everything back up, he put too much crap (RTV or something)
along the surface.
Some of which bled into the hole filling the threads and stripping the bolt.
So I ran over to Home depot matched the thread pitch and bought a longer bolt.

The car runs noticeably better and I have a Mishimoto intake boot on the way to eliminate the ASC. What still baffles me is this one hose which is capped off with a screw. I'll take a picture of it tonight and post it. IDK wtf it goes to. My thoughts is it is for the SAP.
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Every once in a while the Lion has to show the Jackals who he is...
- Christopher Walken "The Lion Speech"
95 e34 525 5 spd S52 Swap... The new Garden State Grocery Getter projekt.
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  #100  
Old 04-07-2014, 11:31 PM
MySatinDoll MySatinDoll is offline
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Here's the pic of the blocked off hose I've been speaking of:




And...

A few others just for a little show and tell thus far.

First the e31 Brembo 4 pot calipers:

When I bought them (ebay was good this time)



Come to find out the seller didn't know what he had... or didn't care. But I sure did.

The rebuild. They weren't that bad just needed a good cleaning, some new seals, and paint.
I was a messy job short of a diff or trans rebuild but needless to say I got it done.





One of the brake pistons.


The new seals. Now here's the thing with these that you need to know incase you happen to find a set of theses unicorns.
The rebuild kits are considered NLA. I got this kit from the UK.


One of the brake pistons getting ready for new life.


Now off to paint




No more ugly all now nice


With new pads, huge rotors, and ECStuning SS brakelines everything came together nicely. OK I scratched one caliper. but that's an easy fix:


While at it, I went ahead and begun to repaint the KWs.
Being the calipers are red. What the heck lets keep it going.




Ok the last pic was crappy. It was done a few days after installing them. But you get the idea.

Now some quick small changes:

Before:

After:


Before:

After:
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Every once in a while the Lion has to show the Jackals who he is...
- Christopher Walken "The Lion Speech"
95 e34 525 5 spd S52 Swap... The new Garden State Grocery Getter projekt.
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