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E34 (1989 - 1995)

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  #51  
Old 02-18-2014, 09:05 PM
Trurock Trurock is offline
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Did the battery fix it? I'm kind of in the same position you're in right now.
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  #52  
Old 02-20-2014, 10:50 PM
Volcom1600 Volcom1600 is offline
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Any fix updates? Same issue as above in thread

Good evening. I too am experiencing this same issue. Have a 1994 530i e34 and have serviced the Tranny with fluid flush and believe that the oil level is topped off. Have slipping/trans program error flag when the car is cold only on down shift from 2nd to 1st and the flag will go off and into limp mode (stuck in 3rd). Once the car is up to operation temp. I can cycle the error with a restart and wait for 5-10 mins. and the code is cleared and all is well. I can drive fin with no shift issues or error messages (trans program/limp mode). I have pulled the code and get Code 8 shift lever L2 fault, and error code 53 relay to MV. So next step will be to replace the relay. I took apart Center shifter and cleaned the neutral gear shift selector and it seams to work fine with correct shift positions on instrument cluster, as well as on gear shifts, so I feel like it is something else here. The funny thing is it works fine when the car is hot and will shift fine when temp it normal, thus I;m lead to think that its not the tranny and is electrical, like a false positive from DME to EGS on pin 53 or 54 or something to do with L2 or something altogether. This is driving me crazy. So any help and feedback would be most helpful as well as then the solution to the start of this Thread.

For any one interested here is some good read that I have done thus far:

1. http://www.bmwe34.net/E34main/Trouble/TransProgram.htm
2. http://www.bmwe34.net/E34main/Troubl...ch%20Guide.pdf

3. http://www.zf.com/media/media/docume...cars/5HP18.pdf
4. http://www.kneb.net/bmw/E46/Auto%20t...id%20chart.pdf

5.http://www.2shared.com/document/Tz2e...s_E34_525.html
6. http://www.e38.org/e32/bmw%20code%20defaut.pdf


PLEASE ANY MORE INFO ON HOW THIS ISSUE WAS SOLVED WOULD BE GREAT! THANKS!
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  #53  
Old 02-21-2014, 06:28 AM
Mamij Mamij is offline
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Hi.

1. Practically all problems with the tranny when cold which are fixed and stay fixed when hot, error codes cleared stay away only to recur when the car is cold again, is due to low oil levels. I'm sure you've read about how the oil level needs to be checked for e34 autoboxes. Just to confirm that you have done that ? If so, what and how did you do exactly ?

2. Have you swopped to a new OEM main dme relay?

3. Please confirm there are no oil leaks in the tranny and its oil cooler lines.

4. How did you pull the codes for your transmission ?

5. Please remember to answer all these questions in your reply.

This problem is nearly permanently fixed so please take heart.
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  #54  
Old 02-21-2014, 09:17 AM
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Doktor Bert Doktor Bert is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by allenbee View Post
Are your fluid levels ok when warm ???
Very important, also, on the 4L30E you must fill the front (small) pan with fluid before installation. I always fill both pans during service on these units before installing...
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  #55  
Old 02-21-2014, 09:19 AM
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Doktor Bert Doktor Bert is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Volcom1600 View Post
Good evening. I too am experiencing this same issue. Have a 1994 530i e34 and have serviced the Tranny with fluid flush and believe that the oil level is topped off. Have slipping/trans program error flag when the car is cold only on down shift from 2nd to 1st and the flag will go off and into limp mode (stuck in 3rd)...
Please describe this 'flush' procedure you used and what fluids you used...
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  #56  
Old 02-21-2014, 09:30 AM
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Doktor Bert Doktor Bert is offline
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By the way, I only use Fuchs Titan 3353 ATF available online, or from BMW under PN 83 22 9 407 765. I use nothing else....
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  #57  
Old 02-21-2014, 09:35 AM
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Doktor Bert Doktor Bert is offline
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By the way, IMHO, all ATF's of the same specification are NOT created equal. I have had 4L30E's, 5HP30's and MBZ 722.6's come in for shift complaints following a service at another facility and they settle right down when the correct fluid is used. That's either Fuchs Titan or Febi/Bilstein meeting the appropriate specification.

I have seen units rated for Dexron III that didn't shift properly on other Dex III fluids...FWIW
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  #58  
Old 02-22-2014, 10:12 PM
Volcom1600 Volcom1600 is offline
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Thanks for the reply its not the fluid level, it is full and have used the correct fluid Dexron III. It's a 5HP-18 by the way, and is rated for Dexron II. I have done some further testing of the components via the TCM for Ohm testing on MV1-MV6 and EDS1 and TOT, and TSS, and OSS. It seams I'm not getting a reading from the input Speed Sensor from TCM. I will take a closer resistance testing from the case connector pins to verify, tomorrow, as I'm taking the readings from the TCM at pins 16, 44. I think it is a bad input speed sensor. Tranny shifts fine, and works great when car is hot so its not the fluid. Would a bad TSS cause bad downshift from 2nd to 1st only when cold?, but when warm ok?

Perhaps the sensor starts to get a reading only when it warms up, but when cold it is not reading an input signal from unit to TCM; thus gives error flag, and goes straight into trans prog/limp mode each time. Issue will stay in trans prog mode until warm, thus sometimes will have to drive for a bit in limp mode till temp. gauge goes normal, then when normal operating temperature (about 3-5mins from a cold start) I restart the car, and all is fine. Also I can drive in S2 with no faults when cold, but as soon as shift to to s3 or 3rd and back down again the fault goes off, again only when cold. Sometimes I just turn the car on 5 mins. before I need to go out, I let it idle to warm up to achieve a center gauge normal temp reading, and about 3-5 mins. after cold start once normal is reached, I drive off all is fine again.

Maybe it could be something with the warm up mode that I was reading about? Also the main relay testing is fine, and its not the L2 shifter from last post. Also I got the codes pulled from a local shop with a GT-1 for free. They cleared code 157 and 16 from memory. Codes that I mentioned before in last post have not come back. (53, & 8). Stall RPM test was done, and was at 2000 RPM. TOT resistance is 1043 spec is 970. Output Speed Sensor is in normal spec. range. Is it ok to be over ohm specs? It's just not good to be under right? Also are the ohm readings inversely related for temperature? (ie) Temp. goes up, resistance goes down; or is it as temp. goes up resistance goes up? Thanks for your help in advance... also MV1-MV6 (Magnetic Valve Solenoids) are all 38.6 ohms, spec. is 30-34 ohms at 72 F thus all seam fine. (was about 75 today).

7.


I found above YT vid of a 5hp-19 very similar to mine. But I think the part number for e34 530i m60 5hp-18 input speed sensor is 0501 311 086


8. http://www.thectsc.com/index.php?p=c...r=0501+311+086


I think this might be the solution? Thoughts? Should I give this a go and see if it fixes this strange trans prog limp mode flag only when cold 2nd to 1st downshift issue? Thoughts?

I'll keep testing.. I will test CAN engine temperature sensors too, as that was code 157 mentioned this above. I'll test ECT, IAT or H20 temp. sensors too. Does anyone have resistance spec info for water temperature sensor? (it's the black plug sensor on coolant cross pipe on back side passenger of engine bay just above the DME box; if your standing on passenger side next to DME Box right below fuel rail) Can't find spec testing for this anywhere, and have checked all the mans..

Thanks

Last edited by Volcom1600; 02-22-2014 at 11:30 PM.
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  #59  
Old 02-23-2014, 07:58 AM
Mamij Mamij is offline
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Yes all that you've said is certainly possible. And different 5hp18 manuals have slightly different resistances listed so I wouldn't be worried about mild differences in readings. There were two kinds of 5HP18 produced for the E34 - one for vanos and one for the non vanos M50. The valve bodies and torque convertors for both are interchangeable, only different was some pinout locations and of course the ecu. That might be why there are two diferent troubleshooting manuals out there, both listed as for the 5HP18.

You are a rare well thought out poster here. Are you an engineer? A professor? A soldier?

Switching the speed sensor is definitely the next step to take. However, my suggestion is that instead of paying $50 for the speed sensor, why not pay $100-$200 for an entire good used valve body ? It comes with sensors and solenoids and is a good spare to have for sure. VB problems have killed several transmissions here.

You may think that this is a waste of money but you can resell your old VB with the speed sensor replaced for the same money so its no real loss. Or you can take out the sensor from the VB, put it into your car, and if it fixes the problem, put up the spare VB for sale and fix in a new speed sensor when someone ultimately buys it. However, I would keep it for the solenoids etc.

Plan B would be to buy the speed sensor used and cheap. Check the resistance first (both cold and hot) before installation. In fact I suggest you do that even if you buy a new oem unit. Once installed they are unlikely to take it back for a refund.
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  #60  
Old 02-23-2014, 09:40 AM
imae34driver imae34driver is offline
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^+1


Unless you can get a good speed sensor used or new for near nothing and try it first.. Otherwise tottally agree.

Nice post.
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  #61  
Old 02-23-2014, 02:00 PM
Mamij Mamij is offline
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Thank you

Last edited by Mamij; 02-24-2014 at 05:38 AM.
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  #62  
Old 02-24-2014, 03:15 AM
Volcom1600 Volcom1600 is offline
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Mamij thanks for the great feedback. Wish I knew about this forum sooner, some great people! ! No to any of the professions you mentioned. Thanks, I'm just a 28 year old BMW lover, who takes time to research, read, and test, also I'm GERMAN! When there is a will, there is always a way! Ja that sounds like a good plan of attack. Do you have any leads on where to find a good TSS for sale at a good price? I'll check ebay for a TSS and VB as well etc... Will keep the forum updated as soon as I get this project rolling, with the parts. Hope this fixes the issue...Cheers!

Last edited by Volcom1600; 02-24-2014 at 03:22 AM.
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  #63  
Old 12-09-2014, 09:04 AM
riverman1995 riverman1995 is offline
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overfilled just a bit & got trans program message

I have a 1992 525i, did some maintenance to it last night including topping up the transmission fluid (ATF). I noticed I overfilled it so that it registered higher than on the dip stick than the top line. I imagine this equated to a cup or less of fluid, more like 1/2 a cup. Started it this morning and got the "Trans Program" message. Then it seemed to be engaging really weakly, like I was in manual mode and in a higher gear yet I was in the e mode. Limp tranny, great! I am going to try removing a bit of fluid tonight as it is too coincidental that this happened just after filling it a touch too much. Perhaps this can help you.
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  #64  
Old 12-09-2014, 09:34 AM
upallnight upallnight is offline
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Are you checking the fluid temp when it is between 30-40 C and do you have the engine running with the trans in park or neutral, if not that is you problem.
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  #65  
Old 12-09-2014, 11:43 AM
riverman1995 riverman1995 is offline
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I did not have it to temp, it was cold. I was told by a buddy much more mechanically inclined than I to do what you suggested, I imagine the entire amount that I topped it up with is to come out. Do you suggest I remove it to the level it was before, warm it up, hope that "trans program" light goes off and then top up accordingly after it is warm. Wow, I added maybe only a cup into the reservoir, can't imagine that'd throw things off that much!

Also I'm trying to replace the fog light bulb, it's an E34 1992. Do I somehow remove a cover on the spoiler bumper to access the fog light assembly itself? I don't recall seeing this cover. After that I understand to remove the back of the lamp by twisting it off counter clockwise, which I've already done but while the light assembly is in place. Then I am to remove a clip that holds the bulb in place? Anymore suggestions about this would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks for your comment about the trans fluid.
Mike
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  #66  
Old 12-09-2014, 11:49 AM
Alpina535I Alpina535I is online now
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[QUOTE=Also I'm trying to replace the fog light bulb, it's an E34 1992. Do I somehow remove a cover on the spoiler bumper to access the fog light assembly itself? I don't recall seeing this cover. After that I understand to remove the back of the lamp by twisting it off counter clockwise, which I've already done but while the light assembly is in place. Then I am to remove a clip that holds the bulb in place? Anymore suggestions about this would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks for your comment about the trans fluid.
Mike[/QUOTE]

square panel to the side , clip on tgop and side pops right out, h1 bulbs

Alpina
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  #67  
Old 12-09-2014, 12:08 PM
upallnight upallnight is offline
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Most trans with a dipstick has two marks on the dipstick, the lower mark is for when the engine/trans is cold and the upper mark is when the engine/trans is Hot. Automatic Transmission Fluid expand with heat so if you are filling the trans to the upper mark when it is cold, you have too much ATF in the trans.
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  #68  
Old 12-09-2014, 01:47 PM
riverman1995 riverman1995 is offline
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Awesome upallnight and alpina, thanks for the advice, that is very kind of you. Glad I came here for it.
Mike
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  #69  
Old 12-09-2014, 07:01 PM
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E34ZombieHunter E34ZombieHunter is online now
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Alpina535I View Post
square panel to the side , clip on tgop and side pops right out, h1 bulbs

Alpina
Wait wait wait. ONLY 95's came with projector fogs, UNLESS they are retrofitted.
Removing the panel is correct, bulb type will depend. Passenger side of the car is the flat panel on most, right side at the top is a button, press it in toward the fog and pull. Driver side is a vent for the alternator on some, just pull it out, and it will un-clip.

The projector fogs are a nice upgrade, only require a new plug to be spliced into the harness.
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  #70  
Old 12-09-2014, 08:02 PM
FabianE34 FabianE34 is offline
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In my car my alternator is faulty, i need to rev the engine to atleat 3000 rpms so the alternator can kick in, if not the battery will drain and my transmission control light will come on.
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