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X3 E83 (2004 - 2010)
Talk about the E83 BMW X3 in this forum!

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  #26  
Old 02-10-2014, 09:50 PM
vwvwvw vwvwvw is offline
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Dangermouse, you and I are in sync. I also broke that breather hose yesterday doing this job. Did you get the replacement on? I'm going to do mine tomorrow. I'm gearing up for a lot of cursing.
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  #27  
Old 02-10-2014, 10:13 PM
Itzallaboutg Itzallaboutg is offline
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Was it a brittle hose?
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  #28  
Old 02-10-2014, 11:15 PM
vwvwvw vwvwvw is offline
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Yes it was pretty brittle- it's a hard plastic hose that's been in a high temperature environment for the last six years. But someone with a little more finesse probably could have gotten it out without breaking it. It's hard to see where it attaches to the valve cover and I guess I torqued it too hard wrestling it off.

Anyway the dealer is fifty bucks richer. Ugh
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  #29  
Old 02-10-2014, 11:27 PM
Itzallaboutg Itzallaboutg is offline
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It happens, better now then later... Post some pics of you get a chance
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  #30  
Old 02-11-2014, 04:19 AM
vwvwvw vwvwvw is offline
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Once the hose broke I just cut it off along with the misery of trying to release it back there. So there's not much to see. You can see the other end of the hose under the intake manifold, though, if you just want to get a look at the connector.
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  #31  
Old 02-11-2014, 06:19 AM
DangermouseX3 DangermouseX3 is offline
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I broke mine on a Sunday, so the parts places were all closed. I needed the car on Monday morning, so I did a temp repair with garden hose and electrical tape and ordered a new part. (I had a P0171 code SES before I started, for vacuum leaks, and still have it now, not surprisingly)

It's one of those connectors that requires a little practice getting off, and doing it blind at full body extension at the back of the VC is not the place to practice.

Getting the connector back on the back of the VC is easy. However, replacing that whole hose seems to require removal of the intake manifold which in turn means replacing a bunch of gaskets, which in my case probably are hard and brittle anyway and causing my P0171 code for in-leaks, so they need replacing anyway..
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  #32  
Old 03-05-2014, 10:02 AM
oraclesd oraclesd is offline
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Thank you for the original post, just this weekend I tackled the valve cover gasket and replacing the starter on my 08 X3. The new starter solved the starting hesitation I was getting.

As for your statement below, "the valvetronic motor always finds home position" so there's no way to screw up re-installing it? I was messing with the allen wrench during the re-install (didn't do anything on the removal, it just sprung about an inch after the last bolt was out) and moving the shaft and couldn't figure out if it was doing any good so I just left it, before I started the car, I opened the key for a minute or so and then started the car. I'm hearing some chatter on the intake valves, did I screw up something on the valvetronic re-install??? Maybe the chatter was already there, but can't help to wonder if the re-install of the valvetronic motor caused it.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Foo Fighter View Post
I believe the motor finds 'home position' on its own since it is a servo motor, and has the eccentric shaft sensor as feedback on the position. No need to worry!

I did, however, use an allen key (supposed to be torx I think?) in the end of the valvetronic motor to rotate the shaft as you pull it out. This allows it to come out smoothly instead of bumping it past all the gear teeth (the valvetronic shaft is a worm gear that drives another gear in the crankcase).

- Rotate the shaft fully clockwise - don't use much force/overtighten
- Loosen all the valvetronic mounting bolts
- Rotate the shaft counter-clockwise as you pull it out.

Reverse direction of spin for install.

Last edited by oraclesd; 03-05-2014 at 10:07 AM.
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  #33  
Old 03-05-2014, 10:43 AM
Foo Fighter Foo Fighter is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by oraclesd View Post
Thank you for the original post, just this weekend I tackled the valve cover gasket and replacing the starter on my 08 X3. The new starter solved the starting hesitation I was getting.

As for your statement below, "the valvetronic motor always finds home position" so there's no way to screw up re-installing it? I was messing with the allen wrench during the re-install (didn't do anything on the removal, it just sprung about an inch after the last bolt was out) and moving the shaft and couldn't figure out if it was doing any good so I just left it, before I started the car, I opened the key for a minute or so and then started the car. I'm hearing some chatter on the intake valves, did I screw up something on the valvetronic re-install??? Maybe the chatter was already there, but can't help to wonder if the re-install of the valvetronic motor caused it.
The sensor measures the position of the eccentric shaft - so lets pretend it affected the position when you installed the motor without rotating it a certain way:

The the eccentric shaft would be in the wrong position compared to that commanded by the car. The car would see that the commanded vs actual position of the shaft (as measured by the sensor) didn't match. A code would be tripped (likely one specific to the Valvetronic), and you'd know something was wrong. Not to mention your fuel economy would have suffered noticeably along with the performance and roughness of the engine running if your valves were operating at the wrong amount of lift.

My point being if there was something wrong with the Valvetronic, the car would let you know via the shaft sensor and throw codes.

I believe rotating the valvetronic motor shaft during install/removal is to prevent the teeth on the gears from grinding past each other as you pull it out, and to relive the spring pressure before you remove it (that's why it 'pops' out if you don't do it).

It removed/installed smooth as butter when I rotated the shaft at the same time.

Last edited by Foo Fighter; 03-05-2014 at 10:45 AM. Reason: spelling
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  #34  
Old 03-05-2014, 10:50 AM
oraclesd oraclesd is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Foo Fighter View Post
The sensor measures the position of the eccentric shaft - so lets pretend it affected the position when you installed the motor without rotating it a certain way:

The the eccentric shaft would be in the wrong position compared to that commanded by the car. The car would see that the commanded vs actual position of the shaft (as measured by the sensor) didn't match. A code would be tripped (likely one specific to the Valvetronic), and you'd know something was wrong. Not to mention your fuel economy would have suffered noticeably along with the performance and roughness of the engine running if your valves were operating at the wrong amount of lift.

My point being if there was something wrong with the Valvetronic, the car would let you know via the shaft sensor and throw codes.

I believe rotating the valvetronic motor shaft during install/removal is to prevent the teeth on the gears from grinding past each other as you pull it out, and to relive the spring pressure before you remove it (that's why it 'pops' out if you don't do it).

It removed/installed smooth as butter when I rotated the shaft at the same time.
Thank you! That's what I wanted to hear Glad the valvetronic motor is smart enough to initialized itself every time.
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  #35  
Old 03-15-2014, 04:50 PM
3gunshooter 3gunshooter is offline
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Damn, I just payed 500.00 to have mine done.
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  #36  
Old 03-30-2014, 10:12 AM
E_J_fudd E_J_fudd is offline
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I have a 2006, aside from the VGC being plastic with a different torque will these directions work? Thanks
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  #37  
Old 03-30-2014, 12:49 PM
Itzallaboutg Itzallaboutg is offline
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Are you talking about an e60 530? Any n52 will pretty much be the same. ..
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  #38  
Old 03-30-2014, 07:05 PM
sckow27 sckow27 is offline
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I changed the Valvetronic gasket today on a Z4 ...N52 with 22k miles ...due to an oil leak...I remove the sensor but did not pay attention to its position when I removed or reinstalled it...The motor runs very rough and attempts to calibrate through the talked about auto learn routine have not helped at all...wondering what"s not right....Any suggestions would be appreciated...Thanks
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  #39  
Old 03-30-2014, 07:41 PM
Itzallaboutg Itzallaboutg is offline
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Interesting. . Do you have inpa or any other software to read out any faults?
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  #40  
Old 03-30-2014, 07:44 PM
cagui1223's Avatar
cagui1223 cagui1223 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sckow27 View Post
I changed the Valvetronic gasket today on a Z4 ...N52 with 22k miles ...due to an oil leak...I remove the sensor but did not pay attention to its position when I removed or reinstalled it...The motor runs very rough and attempts to calibrate through the talked about auto learn routine have not helped at all...wondering what"s not right....Any suggestions would be appreciated...Thanks
Is the SES light on? If so, what are the codes?
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  #41  
Old 03-30-2014, 09:52 PM
vwvwvw vwvwvw is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sckow27 View Post
I changed the Valvetronic gasket today on a Z4 ...N52 with 22k miles ...due to an oil leak...I remove the sensor but did not pay attention to its position when I removed or reinstalled it...The motor runs very rough and attempts to calibrate through the talked about auto learn routine have not helped at all...wondering what"s not right....Any suggestions would be appreciated...Thanks
What sensor did you remove?

It could be a vacuum leak- does it run smooth when not idling, like if you press the accelerator a little?

Last edited by vwvwvw; 03-30-2014 at 09:54 PM.
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  #42  
Old 03-31-2014, 09:24 AM
sckow27 sckow27 is offline
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No sensors were removed...it was a simple as pulling the 2 coil packs that are next to the valvtronic actuator, remove the actuator , replace the gasket ....reinstall actuator..What I did not do was to pay any attention to the way the actuator came out or went back in...(as far as shaft position)...the car ran terrible....I performed computer re boot by disconnecting the battery for 20 min. reconnect....switch to position 1 for 1 min. then off for 2 min...restart car and still bad....since this is a 2007 Z4 with the n52 I thought the re-cal may be the same as the X3...no dash light faults yet..maybe I damaged one of the coil packs...maybe the eccentric shaft sensor at this time died ...maybe BMW needs to set the actuator up on a piece of test equipment...I'm puzzeled and stumped.....Thanks..I'll let you my progress
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  #43  
Old 03-31-2014, 10:53 AM
Itzallaboutg Itzallaboutg is offline
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Sounds like you did everything correct. Must be some kind of hardware fault .. keep us updated?
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  #44  
Old 04-01-2014, 09:42 AM
vwvwvw vwvwvw is offline
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There's no need to recalibrate the Valvetronic motor position for what you did.

Try:
- Reseat the coils on the plug.
- Reseat the connector into the coil. Make sure those connectors go all the way into their mating connectors. Look at the others for reference.
- If you press the accelerator, does the car run smooth, like it's back to normal? If so, it's probably a vacuum leak.
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  #45  
Old 04-01-2014, 05:28 PM
sckow27 sckow27 is offline
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Went through all the things that I may have done wrong ...I had no codes thrown so I removed each coil pack connector one at a time looking for a bad coil and forcing a code...all coils were good and I had codes for misfire on my reader...not the problem...I saw a video on u tube that showed the valvetronic working with the valve cover off...just the cycling with position 2 of the ignition switch...I took off my oil filler cover, which gives a pretty good view of the intake action, and had my son cycle the ignition to on but not run...I heard the actuator but saw no action in the valve train...I put the allen key in the back of the actuator and turned it both directions with little if any resistance...I never had the gears meshed...the actuator gear was just sitting on top of the eccentric cam gear...now I realize that you have to walk the gear in with the allen key...no damage to either gear or the actuator and car is back to running great...feel like a dummy, but I learned a lot about Valvetronics.
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  #46  
Old 04-02-2014, 02:22 PM
Itzallaboutg Itzallaboutg is offline
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Great job on figuring it out! Hope is helps someone else out there. It's easy actually not aligning it right. . Thanks for keeping us updated
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  #47  
Old 04-15-2014, 11:00 AM
boosie64 boosie64 is offline
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I have a question about valve cover

Last November, I attempted to change my valve cover gasket. I had a terrible oil leak with burning smell. The gasket was dry rotted and broke up in pieces. Anyway, I had a hard time getting the valve cover off. One of the corner bolts was broken and the cover cracked in the process of getting it out. The price of a new cover was $400. I didn't have the money back then ... so it had to wait. I now got the new cover and installed it. Everything seems fine, however, since it was so long since I took everything apart, I can't remember where one hose goes. It is a small/skinny rubber hose that comes off of the air intake. There is a port on the top of the valve cover that appears to be where it goes, but I am not sure. I am attaching a picture of the place that I think it goes. Can anyone tell me if there is suppose to be something attached to this place on the valve cover?
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  #48  
Old 04-16-2014, 09:50 AM
DangermouseX3 DangermouseX3 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DangermouseX3 View Post
I broke mine on a Sunday, so the parts places were all closed. I needed the car on Monday morning, so I did a temp repair with garden hose and electrical tape and ordered a new part. (I had a P0171 code SES before I started, for vacuum leaks, and still have it now, not surprisingly)

It's one of those connectors that requires a little practice getting off, and doing it blind at full body extension at the back of the VC is not the place to practice.

Getting the connector back on the back of the VC is easy. However, replacing that whole hose seems to require removal of the intake manifold which in turn means replacing a bunch of gaskets, which in my case probably are hard and brittle anyway and causing my P0171 code for in-leaks, so they need replacing anyway..
My garden hose repair lasted at least 2 months. I had ordered the replacement hose the next day, but only found the time this past weekend to fit it. I hadn't been getting any vac leak codes so it seemed to be doing its job.

Getting the inlet manifold off wasn't a lot of fun, I have to say, and I didn't really get it totally off, just pushed to the side enough that I could get my arm underneath to unclip the two connectors under there. And again, I couldn't get them off without breaking the plastic hose. I guess the silver lining is that they are unlikely to vibrate off by themselves.
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  #49  
Old 04-22-2014, 08:09 PM
1stbmwx3 1stbmwx3 is offline
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2007-2010 X3 N52 Valve Cover Replacement DIY

Doing this right now. Your pictures and step by step directions are the only reason why I am doing this myself. Thanks. Now let's hope I can put it all back together!


Sent from BimmerApp mobile app

Last edited by 1stbmwx3; 04-22-2014 at 09:15 PM.
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  #50  
Old 04-22-2014, 08:30 PM
vwvwvw vwvwvw is offline
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I used a small screwdriver and stuck it in the holes at either side of the seam to deform it small enough so I could pull it out. I imagine having a pair of o-ring pliers would make it easier.
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