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E36/7 Z3 (1996-2002)
E36/7 Z3 Roadster, Z3 coupe, Z3 M Roadster and Z3 M Coupe talk with our gurus here.

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  #26  
Old 05-21-2010, 08:00 AM
dirty_elvis dirty_elvis is offline
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It's loose and can rotate a little bit to each side. Can I tighten it up from the inside or do I need to remove the entire latch mechanism?
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  #27  
Old 05-21-2010, 08:03 AM
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Ron Stygar Ron Stygar is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dirty_elvis View Post
It's loose and can rotate a little bit to each side. Can I tighten it up from the inside or do I need to remove the entire latch mechanism?


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  #28  
Old 05-21-2010, 08:08 AM
Monolith Monolith is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dirty_elvis View Post
It's loose and can rotate a little bit to each side. Can I tighten it up from the inside or do I need to remove the entire latch mechanism?
From the looks of it, you'll have to take the covers back off again and tighten the retaining ring around each lock cylinder. A pair of needle nose pliers would probably work in place of the BMW tool shown in Ron's photo.
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  #29  
Old 05-21-2010, 03:07 PM
pelerojo pelerojo is offline
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gaskets

If anyone needs a new set of gaskets (outer) I have a set I can sell. I never got to putting them on before selling the Z3. Just PM me.
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  #30  
Old 05-23-2010, 08:58 AM
dirty_elvis dirty_elvis is offline
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Perfect tool for the job

This is probably the perfect tool for removing the handle cover - a paint can opener. It can do both the "push" and "pull" parts of the job. $0.99 at Home Depot.
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  #31  
Old 03-25-2014, 11:09 AM
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BeemerMikeTX BeemerMikeTX is online now
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Randy Forbes View Post
Depends on which outer gasket you want to replace, as they're two (2) of them.

The most visible one, around the black cover plate, can be changed in about one (1) minute. The one "under" the handle (that keeps water from getting inside the door) will take you half a day.
(Resurrecting an old thread to add a question, and hopefully an answer, that I don't see anywhere else.)

Does the gasket on the back of the door handle trim (cover plate) do anything significant to seal out water from getting inside the door, or is the water seal accomplished by the inner gasket under the handle (P/N 51211977669)?

Since the only way to replace a cracked trim gasket is to buy a new trim piece, I am concerned that the new black trim piece might not match the old black door handle. So, if the trim gasket is more decorative than functional, I'm tempted to just remove the old cracked gasket and reinstall the trim piece without the gasket (I test-fit it without the gasket and it looks fine cosmetically.). But, if the trim gasket does seal out water, then I'll buy new trim pieces and hope for the best on matching the door handles.
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  #32  
Old 03-25-2014, 11:59 AM
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vintage42 vintage42 is offline
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The part you mentioned, 51211977669, does not seem to a gasket, but is called a handle base. I don't know if it keeps water out.
http://www.ecstuning.com/Search/Site...77669/ES89484/

For water protection, I would be concerned about two other parts, the black rubber gaskets on the exterior door handles, and the rigid foam cover for the interior door actuators. I replaced all mine last week.

These rubber seals do keep some water out - they crack with age:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/x2-Exterior-...fbf7cb&vxp=mtr

And these rigid foam covers divert water that does get in from entering the door actuator - they come loose and fall down to the bottom of the door:
P/N 51718400423 and 51718400424

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  #33  
Old 03-25-2014, 01:54 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vintage42 View Post
The part you mentioned, 51211977669, does not seem to a gasket, but is called a handle base. I don't know if it keeps water out.
http://www.ecstuning.com/Search/Site...77669/ES89484/
The part may be called a handle base, but it is a rubber gasket. According to Randy Forbes' earlier post, this gasket keeps water from getting inside the door.

Quote:
Originally Posted by vintage42 View Post
For water protection, I would be concerned about two other parts, the black rubber gaskets on the exterior door handles, and the rigid foam cover for the interior door actuators. I replaced all mine last week.

These rubber seals do keep some water out - they crack with age:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/x2-Exterior-...fbf7cb&vxp=mtr
BMW does not show the trim gasket as a separate part. Apparently these ebay gaskets are a Taiwan aftermarket part. It looks like it matches up pretty well with the back side of my handle trim, so may be worth a try.
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  #34  
Old 03-25-2014, 02:20 PM
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vintage42 vintage42 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BeemerMikeTX View Post
The part may be called a handle base, but it is a rubber gasket. According to Randy Forbes' earlier post, this gasket keeps water from getting inside the door.
BMW does not show the trim gasket as a separate part. Apparently these ebay gaskets are a Taiwan aftermarket part. It looks like it matches up pretty well with the back side of my handle trim, so may be worth a try.
The "Taiwan" rubber gaskets fill the space between the handle and the door, and mine fitted perfectly.

I think another source of water entering the door is the window itself, which cannot make a watertight seal against the door and still move up and down. It is normal that some water enters the door.

Inside the door, BMW has provided the foam covers to shield the door actuators, and a barrier to keep water from the window off the door panel and direct it to the inside bottom where it can drain. The early barriers are plastic sheets.
http://i49.photobucket.com/albums/f2...ps004f24c2.jpg
After 1999 the barriers are rigid molded foam, which I changed to. The barriers rely on the butyl rope, especially at the bottom, to keep water in the door and not let it run down the panel onto the interior sill.

Here is a door with no liner. The owner sprayed the door and noted on the photo how the water dripped out of the liner-less door onto the interior sill.
http://i262.photobucket.com/albums/i...membrane-1.jpg

Last edited by vintage42; 03-25-2014 at 02:29 PM.
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  #35  
Old 03-25-2014, 03:16 PM
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Z3 97 replace outside door handle rubber gasket

Quote:
Originally Posted by vintage42 View Post
The "Taiwan" rubber gaskets fill the space between the handle and the door, and mine fitted perfectly.


Yes, I know where the trim gasket goes. I went ahead a bought a pair of BMW trim pieces with the gaskets from the dealer today. $24.44/pr out the door. Glad the Taiwan gaskets fit perfectly. I may order a set just to have spares.



Quote:
Originally Posted by vintage42 View Post
I think another source of water entering the door is the window itself, which cannot make a watertight seal against the door and still move up and down. It is normal that some water enters the door.


Yes, I know water gets inside doors, which is why they have drains at the bottom. I should have more specifically asked if the trim gasket keeps water out to protect the lock mechanism and electronics. Anyway, I'm going to replace the trim gaskets (and may put a little bead of silicone to help the gasket seal), so it will be sealed at least as good as the factory wants.



Quote:
Originally Posted by vintage42 View Post
Inside the door, BMW has provided the foam covers to shield the door actuators,


Thanks. I'll check the foam covers when I take the door liners off to make sure they are in place and secure.
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"Beemer" is for my BMW motorcycles - '13 K1300S, '95 R1100RS, '88 K75S, '75 R90S (gone, but not forgotten).

Last edited by BeemerMikeTX; 03-25-2014 at 04:20 PM.
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  #36  
Old 03-25-2014, 04:43 PM
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vintage42 vintage42 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BeemerMikeTX View Post
... I'll check the foam covers when I take the door liners off to make sure they are in place and secure...
One of mine was hanging off the actuator rod, and the other was on the bottom of the door. The beads of mastic on mine, and on the forum member who took the photo, grew hard with time and let go. To really hold those covers on, use butyl tape like what holds the plastic or foam liners to the door.

If you are taking the plastic or foam liners off to go inside the door, it's good to buy a coil (box) of Windo-Weld butyl tape at an auto store. My old tape was not very tacky any more, so I applied new tape over it, and it all mashed down flat, sticky and watertight.
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  #37  
Old 03-25-2014, 04:48 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BeemerMikeTX View Post
... Yes, I know water gets inside doors, which is why they have drains at the bottom...
They were not where I expected. They are at the extreme ends of the bottom, very small, cleanable with a tobacco pipe cleaner. The bottom of my doors had some kind of dry residue, not organic, that I used a toothbrush on, then vacuumed, then wiped with a cloth dampened with WD-40.
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  #38  
Old 03-27-2014, 07:48 PM
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Does anyone know a source to buy this pin tool/wrench (P/N 88-88-6-51-2-070) for the door lock nut. I went by my dealer to day, and the parts person said BMW does not sell their special tools to retail customers. Really? I'd like to use the correct tool to torque the nut back on (I did use the "punch" method to get the nut off).

Thanks.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Ron Stygar View Post


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2001 Z3 3.0i Roadster (Topaz Blue Metallic, 5-speed manual, Sport Package, CD radio, heated seats and mirrors, non-power top via special order)
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  #39  
Old 03-28-2014, 02:05 AM
Bob2.8 Bob2.8 is offline
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It's not listed but they claim they can order any BMW tool, although you can probably hold it with something else.

http://www.samstagsales.com/bmwtools.htm
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  #40  
Old 04-02-2014, 09:44 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BeemerMikeTX View Post
Does anyone know a source to buy this pin tool/wrench (P/N 88-88-6-51-2-070) for the door lock nut. I went by my dealer to day, and the parts person said BMW does not sell their special tools to retail customers. Really? I'd like to use the correct tool to torque the nut back on (I did use the "punch" method to get the nut off).

Thanks.
That's the biggest load of bull$hit I've ever heard to come across the parts counter! The part numbers for the tools have to be cross-referenced from their former numbering system to their new(er)/current system__whoever you talked to was TOO LAZY to do it

Quote:
Originally Posted by Bob2.8 View Post
It's not listed but they claim they can order any BMW tool, although you can probably hold it with something else.

http://www.samstagsales.com/bmwtools.htm
WHile perhaps not in everybody's toolshop worth of tricks, I sacrificed an old socket of the appropriate diameter, and made my own doorlock nut tool.









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  #41  
Old 04-02-2014, 11:34 AM
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BeemerMikeTX BeemerMikeTX is online now
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Randy Forbes View Post
That's the biggest load of bull$hit I've ever heard to come across the parts counter! The part numbers for the tools have to be cross-referenced from their former numbering system to their new(er)/current system__whoever you talked to was TOO LAZY to do it
No argument from me about BS, but I was buying other parts at same time and when I got to the door lock wrench (I even had the part number) she told me they don't sell the BMW tools. Maybe I'll go back when someone else is working the parts counter and see if I get a different answer.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Randy Forbes View Post
WHile perhaps not in everybody's toolshop worth of tricks, I sacrificed an old socket of the appropriate diameter, and made my own doorlock nut tool.
If it comes to this (sacrificing a socket), what did you use to grind away the socket base to leave only the "pins"?
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"Beemer" is for my BMW motorcycles - '13 K1300S, '95 R1100RS, '88 K75S, '75 R90S (gone, but not forgotten).
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  #42  
Old 04-02-2014, 02:23 PM
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Originally Posted by BeemerMikeTX View Post
No argument from me about BS, but I was buying other parts at same time and when I got to the door lock wrench (I even had the part number) she told me they don't sell the BMW tools. Maybe I'll go back when someone else is working the parts counter and see if I get a different answer.



If it comes to this (sacrificing a socket), what did you use to grind away the socket base to leave only the "pins"?
A milling machine with a rotary indexing table__every workshop should have one...









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  #43  
Old 04-02-2014, 07:54 PM
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Originally Posted by Randy Forbes View Post
A milling machine with a rotary indexing table__every workshop should have one...
As tempting as that solution is (nice socket to pin wrench conversion), I think I will make another run at the BMW dealer (try to get another parts counter person), or one of the other BMW dealers in town, or maybe the BMW motorcycle dealer who WILL sell me BMW motorcycle tools.
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"Beemer" is for my BMW motorcycles - '13 K1300S, '95 R1100RS, '88 K75S, '75 R90S (gone, but not forgotten).
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  #44  
Old 05-09-2014, 01:00 PM
BStanton BStanton is offline
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Originally Posted by dirty_elvis View Post
This is probably the perfect tool for removing the handle cover - a paint can opener. It can do both the "push" and "pull" parts of the job. $0.99 at Home Depot.
Has anyone tried using a paint can opener as the push/pull tool?
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  #45  
Old 05-09-2014, 01:38 PM
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Originally Posted by BStanton View Post
Has anyone tried using a paint can opener as the push/pull tool?
I read the thread awhile back, before going into the doors for various reasons. In replacing my door handle rubber gaskets, I did not think that a paint can opener would work. Mainly it seemed too short, and maybe the end did not have enough hook on it, especially if working only through the hole in the end of the door without the panel off to provide better light and access.

I used a screwdriver for the pushing, and then a seal pick for the pulling. But the seal pick was hard to aim and use, so since the door panel was off, I changed to using a screwdriver to push from the front instead of pull from the rear. I really did not think a paint can opener would work through the little access hole in the end of the door.
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  #46  
Old 05-09-2014, 02:45 PM
BStanton BStanton is offline
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Thanks vintage42... I just ordered a 10.7 in seal pick on amazon for $6.
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  #47  
Old 05-10-2014, 07:29 AM
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BeemerMikeTX BeemerMikeTX is online now
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BStanton View Post
Has anyone tried using a paint can opener as the push/pull tool?
I use that exact tool. $0.50 at Home Depot. I put the tool into a vice so that about 1/4" or so of the end was sticking up, and then hammered/peened the end over to make it a 90 degree angle. Now the end is wide enough to push on the latching mechanism to release the handle trim, and can easily hook onto the mechanism to pull it closed to lock the handle trim in place. Perfect tool for the job.
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2001 Z3 3.0i Roadster (Topaz Blue Metallic, 5-speed manual, Sport Package, CD radio, heated seats and mirrors, non-power top via special order)
"Beemer" is for my BMW motorcycles - '13 K1300S, '95 R1100RS, '88 K75S, '75 R90S (gone, but not forgotten).
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  #48  
Old 05-10-2014, 12:50 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BeemerMikeTX View Post
... I put the tool into a vice so that about 1/4" or so of the end was sticking up, and then hammered/peened the end over to make it a 90 degree angle...
That modification to the bottle opener was not initially mentioned, and sure would help. When I tried a bottle opener, the original curl on its end would not catch for either pulling or pushing.
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