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5 Series DIY
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  #51  
Old 06-09-2013, 10:22 PM
Crutzy Crutzy is offline
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Location: New Jersey
 
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Mein Auto: BMW 5-series E39
If you need fuel injector o-rings, you should be able to get them at a good price here
1. (easy to use oring warehouse calculator)
2. the o-ring store
3. mfp seals
4. orings usa

What we need is a list of the "trade sizes" for each of the replacement orings, and the material.
1. http://www.allorings.com/size_cross_...nce_framed.htm
2. http://www.marcorubber.com/sizingchart.htm
3. http://www.broadleyjames.com/o-rings-size-chart.html
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  #52  
Old 06-20-2013, 12:59 PM
JoetheSoldier JoetheSoldier is offline
Joe over in Germany
Location: Stuttgart Germany
 
Join Date: Jun 2013
Posts: 1
Mein Auto: 330 ci American spec 2001
He is correct about the O rings and cleaning the injectors

Thanks so much for posting the info on the O rings and injectors, you are spot on. My 2001 E46 330ci was showing a dramatic loss of MPG at 102 K miles, I could not figure it out. All BMW services were done and the dealership informed me that at the car was old it was just getting a little rougher. As I have been driving the car for 12 years I did not accept this. I had the dealer (Yes, I live in Germany) change the O rings (2 per injector), remove the injectors and clean them, to include the little fuel filters inside each, and then replace everything into the engine. I was only getting 20 MPG with the rough engine, after the replacement the pep came back to the car and the MPG is now 24 per gallon (converted from liters). Entire job at BMW dealer was 124 Euro, so about $160 bucks. Sorry I was so dumb as to wait until 100k+ to complete this job. I do change the big under car fuel filter every 50 K (but I was unaware of the 6 other filters inside the fuel injectors). BMW's in 2001 never came with a manual that said you had to do this service...so as a good German dealership It was never suggested. Highly recommend replacing the fuel filters (all 7 every 50K) and the 12 O rings at the same time. Thanks guys for posting the info, I am re-enjoying the drive to work. And yes, just above Stuttgart on A8 after you pass Leonburg the speed limit is UNLIMITED....this is generally where I test my performance features. Cheers.
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  #53  
Old 06-20-2013, 06:06 PM
aspensilver540 aspensilver540 is offline
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Mein Auto: 1997 540i
I got my injectors ultrasonically cleaned, new O rings etc. Pulled the rail,mailed them to a reputable guy, got them back.

No improvement to MPG, no improvement to perceived power (didn't expect that though). Was hoping for MPG but I think if anything its worse than I used to get. Oh well, the car is running really nicely overall.

120K mies
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  #54  
Old 06-21-2013, 06:11 AM
cn90 cn90 is offline
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Mein Auto: 1998 528i 5-sp 140K+
I just watched a few youtube videos for some DIY fuel injector cleaning using carb cleaner at home.

Example:

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  #55  
Old 06-21-2013, 07:25 AM
JimLev JimLev is offline
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Mein Auto: 540/6, S60 Volvo, Tribeca
I did pretty much the same thing at 100K at home. Pumped BG44K thru the injectors with an external fuel pump.
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  #56  
Old 06-21-2013, 07:29 AM
Burning2nd Burning2nd is offline
Under the lift arms
Location: Under the lift arms
 
Join Date: Aug 2010
Posts: 4,730
Mein Auto: E39 540, E36 328is, E83x3
What you've never caught a car on fire ? Lol You won't loose the car unless you don't have a Extinguisher,

Also all the more to follow safety and dissconnect the negative while working on fuel systems ( especially fuel systems )
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  #57  
Old 06-21-2013, 07:41 AM
cn90 cn90 is offline
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Mein Auto: 1998 528i 5-sp 140K+
Quote:
Originally Posted by JimLev View Post
I did pretty much the same thing at 100K at home. Pumped BG44K thru the injectors with an external fuel pump.
In the youtube video above, the guy did this injector cleaning in his kitchen, which is probably fine! I will do mine outside in the driveway!

Jim,
Did you notice any gunk (how many miles on the injector) or debris?
Was it worth it?
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  #58  
Old 06-21-2013, 08:24 AM
JimLev JimLev is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cn90 View Post
In the youtube video above, the guy did this injector cleaning in his kitchen, which is probably fine! I will do mine outside in the driveway!

Jim,
Did you notice any gunk (how many miles on the injector) or debris?
Was it worth it?
The engine had 100k on it. Figured it wouldn't hurt and I wanted to check the flow pattern too.
I sprayed them into a graduated 10cc lab cylinder to make sure they all flowed the same amount after being on for 10 seconds.
No gunk came out, probably because I always buy good brand 93 octane fuel. No difference in MPG or performance, just peace of mind that they were OK. Changed the top o-rings too.
I did have a fire extinguisher on the bench when I did it, just in case there were sparks from the switch. In the old days of carburetors I've burned a few hairs off looking down the barrels!
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  #59  
Old 06-21-2013, 08:28 AM
cn90 cn90 is offline
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Mein Auto: 1998 528i 5-sp 140K+
Good that you do it (injector cleaning).
The people in Volvo forums have some burned valves (expensive repair) and one of the theories is bad injector, allowing extra fuel to be injected and burned the valves (usually exhaust valves).
So the Volvo people advocate cleaning the injector at 140K-150K or so.

Info on burned exhaust valves here:
http://www.matthewsvolvosite.com/for...ic.php?t=20126

Last edited by cn90; 06-21-2013 at 08:29 AM.
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  #60  
Old 06-21-2013, 11:19 AM
cn90 cn90 is offline
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Mein Auto: 1998 528i 5-sp 140K+
For 1998-1998 M52/M62 engine, the fuel injector O-ring is 13641730767.
Realoem lists "quantity required = 6".

But from looking at photo of the fuel injector itself, there are two (2) O-rings/injector.
Does anyone know the PN for the lower O-ring?


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  #61  
Old 10-15-2013, 09:06 PM
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bluebee bluebee is offline
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Mein Auto: 02 BMW 525i M54 auto 130K
This was posted today in a misfire thread, which might be useful:

Quote:
Originally Posted by johnnydinla View Post
Saw this on eHow for Fuel Injector testing.

Instructions
Solenoid and Valve Operation

1
Start the BMW's engine.

2
Hold the pad of a stethoscope against the top of the fuel injector. Listen through the stethoscope to the fuel injector. During normal operation, the fuel injector will make a clicking sound as the solenoid engages the valve.

3
Replace the fuel injector if the clicking sound is not present on any single injector.

Fuel Pressure Regulation Testing

4
Disconnect the vacuum line connected to the fuel pressure regulator.

5
Shine a light into the vacuum line connection hole. If fuel is present in the vacuum line the fuel pressure diaphragm is ruptured. Ruptured diaphragms may also result in gasoline fumes being drawn into the cabin of the vehicle.

6
Replace the regulator if the diaphragm has been ruptured.

7
Reconnect the vacuum line to the fuel pressure regulator.

Injector Resistance

8
Disconnect all fuel injector electrical plugs.

9
Set a multimeter to measure "Ohms." Touch both leads to the fuel injector's electrical plug terminal---one lead on each side. It does not matter which lead is connected to which side.

10
Read the multimeter output. Note the measure of resistance in Ohms. Repeat this process on all the fuel injectors.

11
Compare the resistance readings. All readings should be roughly equivalent. Fuel injector failure has occurred if one injector has a significantly higher or lower resistance than other injectors.

12
Replace injectors that fail the resistance test.

Voltage Feed Testing

13
Rotate the ignition key to the "On" position. It is not necessary to start the BMW's engine to test the voltage being transferred to the fuel injector's electronics plug.

14
Pull the electronics plug from a fuel injector terminal.

15
Set the multimeter to measure "Volts." Insert both the red and black leads into the electronics plug leading removed from the fuel injector. Either lead may be inserted into either side of the plug.

16
Measure the incoming voltage. The incoming voltage should be approximately 12 volts.

17
Replace any injector if the lead is providing 12 volts but the injector is failing.

Electrical Short Testing

18
Disconnect all electrical leads from the fuel injectors.

19
Set a multimeter to "Volts." Connect the multimeter's red lead to any fuel injector plug lead. Connect the multimeter's black lead to the positive terminal of the BMW's battery.

20
Engage the starter of the motor. The engine will not start, but electricity will flow to the fuel injector leads. Monitor the voltage being measured in the multimeter. The voltage should alternate between 0 volts and approximately 12 volts. You may need a friend to assist you with the engine ignition while you monitor the voltage. Leave the multimeter leads connected for the next step.

21
Connect a fuel injector lead to the fuel injector. Engage the starter while monitoring the voltage on the multimeter. The voltage should continue to alternate. Repeat this step until only the original lead remains untested. If the voltage fails to alternate when a fuel injector is connected, the fuel injector has electrically shorted and must be replaced.

22
Test the final fuel injector lead. Disconnect any other tested fuel injector. Connect the originally used lead to the respective fuel injector. Retest for alternating voltage with the original lead connected.



http://www.ehow.com/how_8038033_diy-...r-testing.html
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  #62  
Old 10-28-2013, 02:04 PM
pleiades pleiades is offline
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Mein Auto: '99 528i, M52TU w/stick
Pardon this (injector) newbie question. Sometime back I had an interest in cleaning mine but don't know whether they even have pintle caps or not. I've read that the pintle caps can be damaged when the injectors are removed from the intake, but photos of these Siemens injectors never seem to show a pintle cap attached. Are they a version that does not require the caps? My car is an M52TU with Siemens injectors, not the older Bosch.
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  #63  
Old 04-09-2014, 07:10 AM
dee0007 dee0007 is offline
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Location: Toronto
 
Join Date: Apr 2014
Posts: 6
Mein Auto: Bmw 330i E46
Hey guys Im having this issue and i believe its related to the injector leak. The car is a 2004 e46 330i zhp, it starts in the morning with out any problems. The problem is when i drive it and park it and anywhere between 30min-10hrs after that the car is difficult to start, I need to add full throttle and after it starts while cranking for 3-5sec, I usually smell fuel.
My question is this. If I replace the o-rings is it going to solve my issue or perhaps is this a bad fuel injector??
Is there a way to diagnose a faulty fuel injector and a way to fix it? any suggestions what I should do first?
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  #64  
Old 04-09-2014, 07:40 AM
JimLev JimLev is offline
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Mein Auto: 540/6, S60 Volvo, Tribeca
Changing the o-rings won't do anything for a leaking injector.
You could connect a pressure gauge to the fuel rail and see if the pressure falls off quicker than normal. Don't know what the spec is for your car.
Another better way to verify if you have a leaking injector would be to pull all of the injectors leaving them attached to the fuel rail and see if the tips are dripping fuel.
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  #65  
Old 04-25-2014, 02:00 PM
BbradenMmillerW BbradenMmillerW is offline
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Mein Auto: 2002 BMW 525i - Black e39
Injectors replacement and/or servicing DIY (E39)

Black 2002 BMW 525i
E39's go hard
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  #66  
Old 04-26-2014, 05:22 PM
BbradenMmillerW BbradenMmillerW is offline
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Mein Auto: 2002 BMW 525i - Black e39
If the tips are dripping fuel when removed (and still connected to fuel rail) then the injector(s) is leaking and needs replacement - am I right on that?


Black 2002 BMW 525i
E39's go hard
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  #67  
Old 07-10-2014, 09:35 AM
JonPhantom JonPhantom is offline
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Location: Stouffville, Ontario
 
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Posts: 27
Mein Auto: 2001 330XI
2001 330iX 350,000km (220,000 mi)
Last summer / fall I could smell gas while I was driving. Pulled off the plastic pieces on top of the engine and I could see gas seeping from around 4 of the injectors. Cost of the O rings here in Canada is about $12 each (!). I found a diesel injector place (Toronto area) that would clean, calibrate and install new O rings for $25 an injector in 1 day. I put everything back together and could still smell gas. One of the injectors (fortunately the front one) was still leaking. I bit the bullet (I hate paying CDN retail prices) and bought OFFICIAL BMW O rings for that injector. It still leaked. I bought a new BMW injector and that solved the problem. (Note: they were leaking in warm weather.) Over the winter, through friends (CDN Snow Birds) who winter in Florida, I bought 5 new BMW injectors (less than 1/2 price online vs CDN dealer.) and just put them in today. When I started the car it ran rough for 30 seconds or so (just long enought for "Oh Crap!" to pass throught my mind) and then smoothed out. The new injectores are physically larger on the bottom than the old ones. The injector tip plastic covers on the new ones fall right off the old ones. A safety upgrade. DIY is EXCELLENT, INCLUDING torgue values! Thanks.
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  #68  
Old 07-21-2014, 12:13 PM
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bluebee bluebee is offline
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Location: San Jose, California
 
Join Date: Mar 2008
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Mein Auto: 02 BMW 525i M54 auto 130K
I will cross reference the information here to the comprehensive o-ring thread:
- Glovebox printouts for emergency use (1) and how to save $ money to qualify for free shipping on UPS/DHL/USPS/FedEx by stocking O-rings & gaskets & bulbs & vacuum hoses & fuses & wiper blade inserts & belts & bearings & oil filters & cabin air filters & engine air filters & fluids in your garage whenever ordering from the recommended parts suppliers.

See also:
- How to locate all problematic (between 1/8" & 9/32" ID) 3.5x1.8mm, 3.3x1.8mm & (between 17/64" & 9/32" ID) 7mm ID vacuum tubing (single material), vacuum hoses (multiple material), 3.3mm OD curved vacuum pipes (rigid tubes), 3.5mm & 7mm ID vacuum endcaps (closed end) & 7x3mm manifold o-rings (1) & 7.52X3.52mm and 9.2X2.8mm fuel injection o-rings (1) & gaskets (1) on the M54 engine & where in the USA to get new vacuum tubing & vacuum caps (1) & what SAE sizes to get for all the metric M54 engine vacuum tubes, hoses, pipes, and caps (1) & correcting the F-connector errors in the realoem diagrams (1) & finding the ends of hard-to-locate vacuum tubes (1) & sorely needed clarification on how the M54 CCV vacuum port works on the M52 CCV valve connection to the fuel pressure regulator connection (1) & how to make, borrow, or buy lean-condition misfire test tools to test for vacuum leaks & lean conditions (1) (2)
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  #69  
Old 11-22-2014, 04:47 AM
Lawnjooway Lawnjooway is offline
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Mein Auto: 2010 X5 35D 110k
Hi guys, I'm not the guy that's going to tear off my injectors and clean them. I just don't want to get screwed at the dealer. Here's my dilemma: a few weeks ago, on startup, the car would have a musty/exhaust like smell in the cabin. It would go away after a few min. I was thinking that I needed to replace the cabin filter. When the cold snap hit last week, my wife was driving the X5 (2010 35d w 105k miles we got used in June), and the "Engine Malfunction: Reduced Power" message came up and has not gone away for three days (I have a service appt Monday). After pulling the codes with my little OBD2 reader, it says that there's a problem with port 6, it's burning lean, and there's an issue with the injector. At least from what I can tell. So of course, being a diesel novice I bought injector cleaners and dumped it in the fuel tank. Still no improvement. Engine still in limp mode (except no speed limit). Should I need a new injector at this stage, or is it just a cleaning that's needed. And since I can't do it myself, what's the most cost effective option? Thanks and be gentle.
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  #70  
Old 11-25-2014, 07:58 PM
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bluebee bluebee is offline
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Location: San Jose, California
 
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Mein Auto: 02 BMW 525i M54 auto 130K
The E46 guys are wondering how to service fuel injectors at home today ...
> 3 Series / 4 Series > E46 (1999 - 2006)
Quote:
Originally Posted by Restinpeas View Post
I recently bought a set of fuel injectors from a similar car (2001 330ci) that was being parted out with the intent to clean them and have them ready, just in case. The injectors are Siemens Deka 1439800. I am sure one can send them out and clean on a machine somewhere, however, I wanted to do this at home as a small side project.

The equipment that I have for this:
1. 12V DC power supply
2. A function generator capable of providing square, sine, and triangle waves with frequencies ranging from 0.1 Hz to 100 kHz. Voltage amplitude is variable as well.
3. A diode which can block a part of the wave to provide only positive or negative voltage instead of a full swing from - to +.

I searched the web and the only info I found that injectors require to have constant 12V on one terminal and pulses to ground on the other. Not clear what that other terminal is kept at when it is not driven to ground by ECU. So, I attached 12V DC to that first terminal and the function generator with the diode to the other terminal. This arrangement is supposed to give me 12V DC to ground to 12V DC to ground to 12V DC to ... etc... pulses. In theory. In practice, it did not work. The question is what did I do wrong?
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