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F10 / F11 (2011 - Current)
The new chapter in the highly successful story of the BMW 5 Series Sedan (F10) and wagon (F11)

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  #1  
Old 04-09-2014, 11:09 AM
skiutah skiutah is offline
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Picking up 550i in CA - driving to AZ, break in?

Hi all -

Reached a deal with Greg Poland on a 2014 550i, black over black. Very excited and picking up the new ride at the end of the month. However, as soon as I pick up the new 550i, have to drive back to Phoenix right away, about 340 miles and some change. I know with engine break-in, one is not supposed to keep the car at a constant RPM, but I am thinking that could be a bit challenging considering that I will get on I-10 in LA and not get off I-10 until back in Phoenix. Any advice as to how best to remedy the situation?

Even if I regulate speed, the RPM's will always likely settle back down to constant unless I constantly accel and decel throughout the journey.

Looking forward to posting pics and my experiences with the new car. After my second comparo of the 535i and 550i, I could not get the 550i out of my mind....and so it was done. And for the record, Greg Poland is about as good as they come with regard to making a deal.

LBH
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  #2  
Old 04-09-2014, 11:28 AM
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bikenski bikenski is offline
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Congratulations on the new 550! Glad you were able to work out a deal, and you're going to love the V8's effortless power.

The 8-Speed transmission in comfort mode will keep the revs between 1,000 and 2,000 rpm unless you're really hammering the throttle. A few hours on the highway certainly isn't going to damage the car at all, but if you want to vary the RPM a bit during the drive without risking your license, just click over to sport mode and pull on the paddle shifter to downshift into a lower gear periodically. (If left in comfort mode, the transmission will go back into top gear on its own after a few seconds.)
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  #3  
Old 04-09-2014, 11:31 AM
mness mness is offline
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Even at "constant" speed on the highway you can use the shifter to vary the rpms. You can lope in 8th gear at 1500 rpm or lower gears to 4000 rpm for periods of time.


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Old 04-09-2014, 11:40 AM
ae86pwr ae86pwr is offline
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LA traffic hours .... plenty of stop and go and change in rev range
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  #5  
Old 04-09-2014, 11:58 AM
MackSea MackSea is online now
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Drive it like you stole it. Break it in right. Just vary your speed between 60-80, you'll be fine.
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  #6  
Old 04-09-2014, 12:29 PM
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MasterYoda MasterYoda is offline
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A lot of people doing ED just go balls to wall right off the bat with no issues. You'll be fine!


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  #7  
Old 04-09-2014, 12:51 PM
Blkthght Blkthght is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MasterYoda View Post
A lot of people doing ED just go balls to wall right off the bat with no issues. You'll be fine!

I picked up my 2012 550i in Munich with 1 mile on the ODO. Over the next several days I proceeded to drive the sh*t out of it from germany down to the south of france....i.e. as it was meant to be driven. Car drives and handles as flawless now as it did back then.

OP, your worrying about break-in periods and RPM ranges, although understandable, is really much ado about nothing. A 350 mile trip immediately after picking up a 2014 550i seems more like a gift than a dilemma. Enjoy your car bro.
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Old 04-09-2014, 03:30 PM
wedatcana wedatcana is offline
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When i did ED years ago, they told to disregard the book and keep it under 160 kph (100 mph).
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  #9  
Old 04-09-2014, 08:52 PM
skiutah skiutah is offline
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Thanks guys. Much appreciated. I think it is going to be a fun ride home....keeping the 550 under 100 is going be tough....maybe, for just one second!
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  #10  
Old 04-09-2014, 10:46 PM
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rajeek rajeek is online now
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Recommended speeds for break in for the first 500 miles is 65-155mph (limiter speed) for a new vehicle. You are lucky because you will have open roads to break it in. Enjoy!


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  #11  
Old 04-10-2014, 09:23 AM
joder joder is offline
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I did Glendale to Houston basically on the same route that you will be on. My first day was Glendale to Tucson.

Shift between 5th and 8th gears periodically. I did 8th for 15 minutes, then 7th for 15, 6th for 15, etc..

I am pretty sure 5th @ 80 mph stays under the 4000 RPM mark.

Anyways make a few stops along the way to fill up or stretch.
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  #12  
Old 04-10-2014, 10:01 AM
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Mark K Mark K is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by skiutah View Post
Thanks guys. Much appreciated. I think it is going to be a fun ride home....keeping the 550 under 100 is going be tough....maybe, for just one second!
Just one more thing ... your cruise control should allow you to change gears without switching off. At least mine does. So, changing 8-7-6-5 and back up is not that bad at all.

Or take the advice to do WOT from LA outskirts to Phoenix outskirts, whatever the engine and vehicle speeds
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  #13  
Old 04-10-2014, 10:16 AM
joder joder is offline
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Originally Posted by Mark K View Post
Just one more thing ... your cruise control should allow you to change gears without switching off. At least mine does. So, changing 8-7-6-5 and back up is not that bad at all.

Or take the advice to do WOT from LA outskirts to Phoenix outskirts, whatever the engine and vehicle speeds
If you follow the latter be sure to watch out for this guy...

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  #14  
Old 04-10-2014, 11:09 AM
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Mark K Mark K is offline
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Originally Posted by joder View Post
If you follow the latter be sure to watch out for this guy...

Yup. We can start betting thread if OP will make it to Phoenix and how many miles he'll cover before ending up in jail
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  #15  
Old 04-10-2014, 01:35 PM
Alan L. Alan L. is offline
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Some believe that you should drive it like you stole it for the first 60miles for the piston rings to be properly seated. Then after that just alternate the rpms but shifting the transmission manually which is what I did. I cruised around in different gears so that my rpms wouldn't be in the same spot for an extended period of time.

Alan
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  #16  
Old 04-10-2014, 01:58 PM
Razorback7 Razorback7 is offline
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Our piston engine airplane engine break-ins (straight six, low-tech) prefer 75%+ power and high RPMS for the first 5-10 hours of flight, for the same reasons mentioned by Alan.
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  #17  
Old 04-10-2014, 04:14 PM
Stonehauler Stonehauler is offline
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Take the backroads instead of I 10. Just watch out for Buford T Justice...
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  #18  
Old 04-10-2014, 07:46 PM
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K-A K-A is offline
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I'm a firm believer of doing both (babying and driving hard) while you break it in. Go WOT every now and then under 100 miles up until the break-in period is over, baby it the rest, etc. A good middle ground. I find that my last 3 cars (which were brand new) I did a 600+ mile long distance drive before the car hit even a hundred or so miles (under 400 miles in the case of my F10, with my Benzes, I went on those drives just days after I got the car). I lease so I guess I take a different cautionary measure, but still, I didn't worry about it much. I just tried to stay out of cruise control so I could remember to keep varying the RPM's.
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  #19  
Old 04-10-2014, 08:32 PM
Autoputzer Autoputzer is offline
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Two big things make break-in necessary.

The first is the piston rings grinding away until they completely match the cylinder walls, what they call "seating." These little particles of piston rings end up floating around in the oil, some small enough to make it through the filter. Back in the bad old days, the cylinders were deformed slightly by having the cylinder heads bolted onto the block after boring. But, now they typically use a boring plate attached to the engine block during boring of the cylinders. This is an old hot rod trick, made more necessary since manufacturers are trying to lighten the blocks as much as possible. The boring plate is bolted on the top of the block just like a cylinder head will be, causing the same deformations, that are then erased by the boring.

The second reason for break-in is the bearings (main and connecting rod). Journal bearings (shaft and bearing) are concentric under low loads. As the loads get greater, the shaft becomes eccentric with respect to the bearing. The higher the load, the more eccentric the shaft becomes, and the smaller the clearance becomes between the shaft and the bearing. As long as those little particles of cylinder rings are smaller than the minimum clearance between the bearing and the shaft, they just wash through the bearing. But, if the shaft comes too close to the bearing under high load, it grinds those little pieces of piston ring into the bearing and shaft surfaces.

Different areas of the piston rings wear under different engine speeds and loads. The trick in a good break-in is to hit all of those conditions (different engine speeds and loads) to fully seat the piston rings. A steady, light load on a brand new engine doesn't hurt it, but it does delay it from breaking in completely.

There's a big debate about break in being necessary since cars are briefly dyno'ed at high engine speeds and loads at the factory. A theory (just a theory) is that the big chunks of piston rings being broken loose then are all big enough to get caught by the filter.

Go look at the oil thread here. Somebody cut open a filter after a the first oil change and it had all sorts of metallic chunks in it, more than just piston ring grindings, more like garbage left around by the machine process. I had a pick-up truck with a magnetic drain plug. After the first oil change at 1500 miles, the magnet was "hairy" with metal shavings. That convinced me to always do break-in oil changes, except in Honda's since they specifically instruct you not to because they use special additives in their factory-fill oil.
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