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E90/E91/E92/E93 (2006 - 2013)
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  #226  
Old 02-09-2014, 01:11 PM
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Nordic_Kat Nordic_Kat is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fun2drive View Post
This isn't a single application process when seals are dried out. I would suggest doing this a number of times until it is showing the sheen and the material doesn't soak in.
Quote:
Originally Posted by peakay View Post
Thanks. That's what I plan to do, but it was disheartening to see how dry they were and hwo quickly the gummi disappeared.

is it possible to overdo this? i would hate to over-condition and have them get too soft. I remember my dad doing this to his softball glove when I was a kid...he oiled it so much it became too soft and too bendable.
Fun2Drive nailed this. If the Gummi Pflege is absorbing in rapidly, multiple applications are necessary. It's not going to make the seals gummy or soft. I would probably do an application, wait an hour - do another then in a few days do it again and see if the seals are getting more pliable. The big difference between the seals and a baseball glove is the glove is leather and you can over condition leather. The Gummi will tend to bead up and not sink in as rapidly when the rubber is fully hydrated.

Be patient with it, the seals didn't get dried out overnight - it will take a bit of perseverance to get them back in shape.
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  #227  
Old 02-12-2014, 11:16 AM
peakay peakay is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Nordic_Kat View Post
Fun2Drive nailed this. If the Gummi Pflege is absorbing in rapidly, multiple applications are necessary. It's not going to make the seals gummy or soft. I would probably do an application, wait an hour - do another then in a few days do it again and see if the seals are getting more pliable. The big difference between the seals and a baseball glove is the glove is leather and you can over condition leather. The Gummi will tend to bead up and not sink in as rapidly when the rubber is fully hydrated.

Be patient with it, the seals didn't get dried out overnight - it will take a bit of perseverance to get them back in shape.

Thanks Kat - will do.

After lubing/conditioning I still have the same rattles. Not sure if this is going to help at all, but I know it is good for the car anyway.

Anyone on here using the SmartTop module or have one to sell? Have comfort access, but it doesn't go far enough. I lower the top a lot and it would be so helpful to be able to lower or raise it form a distance.
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  #228  
Old 02-17-2014, 07:37 AM
jertronic jertronic is offline
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Gummi applied to L.L. Bean boots. 2 layers with the leather done with Lexol. Click image for larger version

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  #229  
Old 03-01-2014, 08:17 PM
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DallasBimmer DallasBimmer is offline
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Would this by any chance take the place of HHS-K? Description says "2000"..
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  #230  
Old 03-02-2014, 10:32 AM
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fun2drive fun2drive is offline
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HHS-K is available and is 50 state compliant vs HHS-2000 which is not. Care to guess which state is not compliant?
Here is what BAVAUTO sells
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Wurth-HHS-20...ts_Accessories
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  #231  
Old 03-02-2014, 03:11 PM
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DallasBimmer DallasBimmer is offline
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Originally Posted by fun2drive View Post
HHS-K is available and is 50 state compliant vs HHS-2000 which is not. Care to guess which state is not compliant?
Here is what BAVAUTO sells
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Wurth-HHS-20...ts_Accessories
Thank You so much, yours and Kat's DIY is so thorough and perfect, I did not want to vary a bit. I've had the car two days and can not wait to do this maintenance item.

I have seen terms like "messy" and "thick" used with respect to lithium grease. Is HHS-K that much easier to use in place of lithium grease to justify the difference?
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  #232  
Old 03-19-2014, 03:30 PM
peakay peakay is offline
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Hi there,

A couple weeks ago I found a piece of plastic in my trunk that was very random. I almost threw it out, but set it aside just in case. Later it seemed like my top was louder when it was going up and today I found where it goes (See photo)

I guess its a striker plate for the plastic piece that bend up when the top is put back in place. There was a lot of glue where it came off, so I pressed and held it there for a while, then put my top up so the striker pieve was holding it down and let it sit for an hour or so. Seems ok, but I'm afraid it might fall off again.

Anyone else had these fall off? If so, is there a better way to re-fasten? Thanks for any feedback!


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  #233  
Old 03-19-2014, 04:30 PM
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fun2drive fun2drive is offline
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Yes the Wurth product is much better as it goes on as an aerosol and turns into a grease in short order but much more manageable than the typical lithium grease...
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  #234  
Old 03-19-2014, 06:48 PM
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Nordic_Kat Nordic_Kat is offline
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Originally Posted by peakay View Post
Anyone else had these fall off? If so, is there a better way to re-fasten? Thanks for any feedback!


Yes,
I had the exact same thing happen when the car was about 9 months old. In fact, it was my first 'warranty' repair. The shop foreman at the BMW dealership literally glued it back on with superglue and it's been good ever since. It took 4 of us standing around the car exercising the top up/down/up/down to isolate where the sound was coming from and then the foreman who was standing closest to the missing plate spotted it lying in the trunk.
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  #235  
Old 03-29-2014, 09:18 AM
pjroberts pjroberts is offline
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Opening a Dirty e93 Top ? Danger ?

Hi Kat & Contributors - Great thread, thanks for all the detail. Have a question haven't seen asked or answered and this seems like maybe the best place.

What do you think risks may be with opening the top when it's dirty? I'm worried about dust or other junk spreading/dropping into wrong places or interior facing surfaces -- of course the best answer is to keep it clean, but sometimes not possible due to my job (example, today going to airport, where it will sit in covered parking for a few days, so I am not going to wash it until after I get back). But hey, I need some open air on the way!

Do you think any risk? It feels like wearing muddy shoes into my house.
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  #236  
Old 03-29-2014, 01:05 PM
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I don't think there is much risk except that the interior will get dirty. Most of the components that move are pretty well covered.
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  #237  
Old 03-31-2014, 11:05 PM
thenewrick thenewrick is offline
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Hello. I signed up on here to contribute to this thread and get some feedback. I bought my 07 335i E93 November of 2012. As far as I know it has never had any maintenance on the top or seals.

I began using Gummi soon after getting the car. I apply Gummi roughly every 6 months. I have some clunks and rattles but they don't bother me really. It would be nice if they improved though. It sounds like the top isn't very secure and moves around when I hit speed bumps or pot holes. The top mechanism sounds a bit squeaky and struggl-y so I ordered the HHS and I'll apply that in a couple of weeks. I raise-lower the roof approximately 5 times a day; it gets a lot of abuse.

I'll try and record a before and after video of the top mechanism working to see if there is an obvious audible difference.

My first concern is that on the front part of the top that meets the windshield my attaching pin does not look like the one provided in the OP thread. I seem to be missing the springy cap thing. I also noticed there was something inside the female receptacle on the driver's side where the pin inserts. Perhaps this is the springy cap that fell off and got stuck inside? The passenger side has no cap, and no loose items inside the female receptacle for the pin.

Let me know what you think.














Last edited by thenewrick; 04-02-2014 at 04:00 PM.
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  #238  
Old 04-02-2014, 08:33 PM
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fun2drive fun2drive is offline
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I will look at my top tomorrow and see what I can find but I can't detect anything that looks wrong with your top. I am thinking that once you get it well lubed that you have a latch adjustment issue. The latches are supposed to be adjusted per a procedure that I know some of our members have had done. I would suggest starting a new thread under the title hard top rattling and how to adjust. Something like that. It will get more visibility than posting here will since this is a problem.
Every BMW top I have ever adjusted and I have had a number of soft tops all needed adjustment. I have never adjusted my hard top but I do know there is a procedure to do it. Also typically BMW uses some rubber bumper around the latching pin there to absorb top movements...

For example this reference which is best done by the dealer
http://www.justanswer.com/bmw/5r7u8-...nvertible.html

Last edited by fun2drive; 04-02-2014 at 08:43 PM.
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  #239  
Old 04-03-2014, 09:39 AM
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fun2drive fun2drive is offline
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E93 Latch and Pin Pictures

Here is what my latch and pin pictures look like. From what I can determine your only problem is that your top latch is not correctly adjusted. Notice the witness marks for the top which is one area that can be adjusted. The other adjustment is the latch itself by adjusting a connecting rod. I suggest this might be an area to let the dealer adjust unless you can find an indy BMW wrench that can do that for you which I doubt. This might be a few hundred bucks or less. If you let it rattle around you might well cause some wear issues. I am surprised your top doesn't leak in that area...
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  #240  
Old 04-03-2014, 09:54 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fun2drive View Post
I suggest this might be an area to let the dealer adjust....
I would concur wholeheartedly about finding a dealer with a qualified tech to do this. Based on a discussion I had with the foreman at my local dealership, not all techs are certified to work on the hard-top and if I recall correctly from my visit to Regensburg where the hard-tops are assembled in a totally separate line, tolerances for the top are 0.3mm where most of the other tolerances are 0.6-1.0 mm. I had my front hinges adjusted as they were catching and in addition had to have the hinge mechanisms replaced under warranty - as I recall there was a TSB with regard to the replacement. It would be a safe bet to at least take it to a dealer and have them take a look at it and check for the TSB.
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  #241  
Old 04-03-2014, 10:29 AM
thenewrick thenewrick is offline
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Hey all thanks for the feedback. It sounds like it likely needs a little readjustment. Unfortunately I can't afford it

I don't mind the rattles but I'm hoping that the free play doesn't lead to serious damage. I guess time will tell.

I'm expecting the lube to arrive any day now. I can't wait to grease her up and see if it smooths things out some.

*I wonder what that piece of metal in my front pin hole is, hmmm. Makes me want to find a magnet or something and try to get it out.
-After trying to pull it out it seems to be attached. I think it might be a button type thing to tell the car when the top is closed.

Last edited by thenewrick; 04-03-2014 at 10:34 AM.
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  #242  
Old 04-03-2014, 03:11 PM
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fun2drive fun2drive is offline
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I'm guessing if I shined a light into that hole that I would see that position pin I see in your pictures. I think I would consider saving a few bucks up to have the dealer look at this issue. From experience in the area you are in you should not see more than an hour charge to see if they can do anything about this. I also sent you via PM the TSB that Kat references about rattling tops. You might stop by and discuss this with the service advisors and see what they can tell you.
Allowing the top to bang around will open tolerances wearing bushing out and other bad things. Strongly consider getting the top adjustment looked at to save you money in the long run.
Good luck and post what you decide to do...
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  #243  
Old 04-04-2014, 09:09 PM
thenewrick thenewrick is offline
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I just lubed the car thoroughly with the recommended lube. I didn't notice any difference in the way it worked or sounded. It may actually make a little more noise after the lube but may have been a fluke. I did manage to get overspray all over the paint and glass which is nearly impossible to remove. Overall not too happy with the results but hey maybe it'll keep it running smooth for years to come!
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  #244  
Old 04-14-2014, 09:34 AM
Genericuser1 Genericuser1 is offline
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Just found this post, so informative! I recently bought a used 2011 e93 that I doubt the original owner took good care of. I have some lithium grease and will be ordering some Gummi Pflege to care for the top.

Is there anything in particular I should use to clean the gaskets or hinges prior to applying the lubricants?
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  #245  
Old 04-14-2014, 06:30 PM
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fun2drive fun2drive is offline
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I would just use a cloth clean rag and mild cleaning solution then wipe with a dry clean rag.
It is best to put a rag behind the hinges you lubricate with grease since it sprays all over.
BMW uses rubber seals so be careful to do nothing that damages rubber...
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  #246  
Old 04-29-2014, 11:46 AM
psmittyscotia psmittyscotia is offline
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My first visit as a newly hatched member. . What an excellent contribution. Looking forward to more Bimmerfest
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  #247  
Old 05-19-2014, 02:43 PM
Waves_66 Waves_66 is offline
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I've just taken care of the origami roof on my 2009 e93 as per this threads instructions. I live in London and had some issues getting hold of some of the products. I managed to get hold of Krytox GPL 205 from a scuba diving website via ebay, apparently it's commonly used in the diving world to care for the rubber parts of breathing apparatus it cost 15 for a 20 gram syringe. I wanted hassle free so I went with Wurth HHS 2000 for the moving parts. This appears to be the European derivative of HHS K. I couldn't find anyone that could supply me with K (without insane shipping costs) and nobody really knew the difference. It was 12 from ebay. My 2009 e93 is ex lease and the origami rubber had clearly never been maintained. It took half of the krytox to get the seals done. The Wurth HHS 2000 was brilliant. Sprayed on in aerosol form it seemed to fizz it's way right into the mechs without any of the fuss of lithium grease.
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  #248  
Old 05-20-2014, 04:20 PM
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fun2drive fun2drive is offline
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The main difference between the K and the 2000 Wurth product is that the 2000 can be sold in California. Yep that is the main reason Wurth phased out K in the US...
The propellant is the reason for California banning it.
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  #249  
Old 06-04-2014, 11:58 AM
elite. elite. is offline
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Can anyone comment on hinge alternative lubricating.....I see someone posted about http://www.wd40specialist.com/products and their dry lube. I want to do my top this weekend its its more available (or plain old white lithium also from WD40) locally. Would that do the trick.....or do I really need to wait the week and spend the 30 bucks!? Just ordered the Gummi and hoping for similar results. Awesome resource!
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  #250  
Old 06-04-2014, 02:12 PM
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fun2drive fun2drive is offline
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If your use is short term meaning you plan to do this often than virtually any lube will do. The reason for Wurth product is it goes on as a liquid spray and penetrates internally then flashes off to a high pressure grease. There is a reason BMW and virtually all high end convertible top manufactures use that product. Yes it is not cheap and any lube will do if you use it often enough. However the Wurth product will outlast everything else by a large margin. Lithium spray will work but is much messier and will still not penetrate to the depth that Wurth will.
I have yet to find a more superior product for our top application.
Again if you don't mind lubing your top pivot points often you can use anything...

Last edited by fun2drive; 06-04-2014 at 02:13 PM.
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