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E46 (1999 - 2006)
The fourth generation 3 Series (E46 chassis) was introduced in 1999 and set the standard for engineering and performance during it's years of production including being named to Car & Driver's 10 best list every one of those years! ! -- View the E46 Wiki

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  #1  
Old 05-02-2014, 09:31 AM
meanda meanda is offline
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325i overheating PLEASE HELP

Ok so i Just got a 2005 325i, the car over heats quickly. I took the car and had the codes read and all that came back was PO system to lean (bank 1) Same thing for bank 2. Then of course i get the code PO102 which is the mass air flow circute low input...... With this being said i feel like this will not take the car over heat so quickly.. the water pump has been replaced, thermostat has been replaced. No leaks from inferir the car,, no leaks inside the car. TO BE honest im not looking to keep this car,, all i want to do is flip it ASAP so i can go back to my true love of a Honda LOL...... Any ideas? Any help on this? I was kinda thinking that Maybe, Just maybe the system needs to be flushed ????
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  #2  
Old 05-02-2014, 09:36 AM
meanda meanda is offline
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Forgot to say that the car has NO heat,,
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  #3  
Old 05-03-2014, 06:45 AM
marcozandrini marcozandrini is offline
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Mein Auto:
We need some info:
- miles on the car
- maintenance history
- car's location

BMWs run hot. By that I mean that BMW designs their engines to run with coolant temps at or near the boiling point (212 degrees)! Why? Efficiency. Of course that means the cooling system is under a lot of stress.

It sounds like the cooling system could use a refresh. If you handy with the wrenches you can overhaul the cooling system for about $500. Please use parts that are manufactured by companies that supply BMW! Otherwise the cooling system will cause you more problems.

For now the cooling system could have an pocket. The system may need to be bled. Search this forum and E46 fanatics for the proper bleeding procedure. Also use BMW Copland and distilled water to replenish the cooling system. Putting the wrong coolant into the cooling system can have disasterous results.



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  #4  
Old 05-03-2014, 06:46 AM
marcozandrini marcozandrini is offline
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"Copland" should read "coolant"!


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  #5  
Old 05-03-2014, 03:09 PM
meanda meanda is offline
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over heating

The car Only has 147,000 miles on it, i live in west virginia i couldnt even tell you Where the clostest beamer dealership is in my neck of the woods. Our motto is "If Its broke WE FIX IT" LOL The car dont Just run hot,,, after about a mile or so the needle goes sraight to Where the red light comes on and the car will over heat. boiling over,, the whole nine. I have it Let this happen once careful not to warp or crack head....
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  #6  
Old 05-03-2014, 08:49 PM
jayb328i jayb328i is online now
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I would first bleed the system. If that does not work, when is the last time you flushed the system--if more than 4 years---time to do that. USE the BLUE phosphate/nitrate free antifreeze as required by BMW.
If that does not work, I would start with changing the thermostat. Even a new one can go bad fast or be defective. Do NOT use a cheap one from the local auto store--get one from Turner or one of the BMW distributors.
If that does not work--I am thinking water pump. How old is yours and is it a quality one. If it is some local store model, I definitely would look to put in a quality one. Check this Board for recommendations.
After all that, it may still be something else--good luck.
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  #7  
Old 05-04-2014, 05:18 AM
meanda meanda is offline
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The water pump has Just been replaced,, and the thermostat was the first thing we tried, knowing they can be bad straight out of the box we took that one of and got Another one. Like i said, i hav the codes read and the codes said mass air flow to lean in bank one and two. Are these connected in the over heating problem??? Honestly i do think that the system needs to be flushed and blead. Just trying to gather some info from ppl who have owned and worked on beamers before. This is my first BMW
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  #8  
Old 05-04-2014, 06:46 AM
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ahull ahull is online now
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First off, don't let it boil over any more or overheat for more than a minute. You're just playing with fire and $$$$ engine repair.

Air in there will cause overheating as will a stuck t-stat, or if the radiator fan is not working properly, or a failed pump. The clutch on the pump mounted fans wears out over time (on auto TMs) and the electric fan on the manuals can too. The e46 wiki has a cooling section with links to the proper bleed procedure. Read up there and go on that. Sometimes you have to take the cap off and run the engine to flush out stubborn bubbles. Also, the car needs to sit level to nose up.

The other codes are unrelated. Clean the MAF and check the intake tubing for cracks. All of this is also in the wiki in maintenance and engine sections.

WIKI http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/sho...05#post8014505
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Last edited by ahull; 05-04-2014 at 06:48 AM.
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  #9  
Old 05-16-2014, 06:51 AM
meanda meanda is offline
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ok guys here it goes,,
i had someone look at the car and this guy says its a blown head gasket. However the car does not show all signs of this being correct. The oil is fine, not milky at all. No white smoke comming from the tailpipe but does have some condensation there. No steam comming from the engine either. The car has no troubles when idling, does not spit and sputter. It does over heat quickly i have no heat and there IS backpressure or bubbling in the radiator. With all this being said IF it is a blown head gasket im looking into the head gasket sealant (just as a temp fix) I have read some good reviews and some bad on using these products. I know to flush the system very well. whats your thoughts??
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  #10  
Old 05-16-2014, 10:20 AM
Caver Dave Caver Dave is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by meanda View Post
i had someone look at the car and this guy says its a blown head gasket
It takes a little more than "looking" to diagnose a blown HG... like compression & leakdown testing or maybe "exhaust gas sniffing" the coolant (not always indicative).
Anything less is simply a WAG (Wild @$$ Guess) and a waste of your (our) time & money.

Years ago, had a craptastic Plymouth mimi-van that blew the rear (transverse V6) HG... allowing the coolant to seep out. Flushed it good, poured in a bottle of "Barstop" and got another 20k miles out of it before totally died.

NOT something I'd EVER consider for my BMW!
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  #11  
Old 05-16-2014, 01:02 PM
racin366 racin366 is offline
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How did the someone conclude the head gasket is blown? That need to be done with compression and leakdown tests, or they might just be trying to get a very expensive repair bill out of you.
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