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F10 / F11 (2011 - Current)
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  #76  
Old 10-12-2013, 06:49 PM
PittX52011 PittX52011 is offline
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Re: Hardwire Radar Detector Install (F10)

Was finally able to do it. Did not use blue T tap this time. Just used traditional wire to wire. The ground is tough, just to get to that bolt. Its at a very tight spot.

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  #77  
Old 10-13-2013, 09:53 PM
Gres718 Gres718 is offline
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Can somebody clarify as to why is it better to tap into mirror or sunroof power as opposed to use 8 feet dongy( hidden behind headliner/pillar )connected to power outlet under glove compartment?
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  #78  
Old 10-14-2013, 03:45 AM
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Donm Donm is offline
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I like the clean installation the mirror power has and also I use the under dash acc. plug for Zumo GPS ( I have factory navi, that piece o'sh@t :-))

The 8 foot wire option is best if you are wary of going into the mirror which is not that difficult. If you don't need the under dash acc plug that is easy to install so your best bet.
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  #79  
Old 12-17-2013, 07:05 PM
joder joder is offline
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Started to do the install this way with a t-tap/vampire clip, however, I realized how evil vampire clips can be.

I know it isn't very likely, however, vampire clips can split the wire in half over time which wouldn't be fun to repair. Folks recommend soldering and heat shrinking.

The method I settled on was routing the wires down through the a pillar (along with the other sunroof and rearview mirror wires) into the fuse box. I used a bussman add-a-fuse and grounded to the chasis right by the fuse box.

I wont have to worry about wires splitting due to a vampire/t tap now and I have the added protection of an additional fuse.

I think this is the cleanest install possible as it doesn't involve splicing any wires or removing any amount of insulation from the wires. Additionally you don't have to worry about getting access to that bolt for a ground.

Last edited by joder; 12-19-2013 at 02:19 PM.
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  #80  
Old 12-28-2013, 03:05 PM
mike535msport mike535msport is offline
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Smile Thanks! Worked!!

I went through the steps today to install the Escort detector in my 2014 535ix M-Sport. Everything went great, thanks for the information on getting that center console out. It would have been more trouble if I hadn't had your posting to go by.
I've also done this to my previous 2008 and 2010 535's but soldered the detector in vs. using the splices. My only comment on the splices is to make sure they are clamped tightly. Detector now comes on when the car is started and turns off when the delay is up.
Good info, Thanks!
Mike
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  #81  
Old 04-18-2014, 06:33 PM
VSOD80 VSOD80 is offline
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Really good post! Installed in < 30 mins! Works great and a very clean install!

My V1 seems to be "jumpy" on the start up. It seems to go through some extra "beeps" before getting set. Anyone else experience this?
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  #82  
Old 04-19-2014, 06:14 PM
cncmastr cncmastr is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by VSOD80 View Post
Really good post! Installed in < 30 mins! Works great and a very clean install!

My V1 seems to be "jumpy" on the start up. It seems to go through some extra "beeps" before getting set. Anyone else experience this?
Check your ground wire, it's probably not secured. Or even the live feed wire, it could be loose.
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  #83  
Old 04-22-2014, 12:18 PM
VSOD80 VSOD80 is offline
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Thx! I'll check the live wire again. I feel good about the ground, direct to the bolt and tight. Used a T-tap on the live wire, had difficulty getting a good connection initially.
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  #84  
Old 05-19-2014, 06:46 PM
jhav jhav is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by joder View Post
The method I settled on was routing the wires down through the a pillar (along with the other sunroof and rearview mirror wires) into the fuse box. I used a bussman add-a-fuse and grounded to the chasis right by the fuse box.

I think this is the cleanest install possible as it doesn't involve splicing any wires or removing any amount of insulation from the wires. Additionally you don't have to worry about getting access to that bolt for a ground.
This is the same way i had done my hardwiring in my 335is. Did you take any pics of how you ran the wires? Is the F10 fusebox also behind the glove compartment (as was the E9x), or is it elsewhere? Which fuse did you tap into - obviously you located a 'switched' fuse?

Thanks!
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  #85  
Old 05-19-2014, 07:24 PM
radarguy radarguy is offline
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jhay The fuse panel is behind the glove box. See here for a photos on how to access the fuses and the correct fuse location.
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  #86  
Old 05-19-2014, 07:53 PM
joder joder is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jhav View Post
This is the same way i had done my hardwiring in my 335is. Did you take any pics of how you ran the wires? Is the F10 fusebox also behind the glove compartment (as was the E9x), or is it elsewhere? Which fuse did you tap into - obviously you located a 'switched' fuse?
I just took a whole bunch of pics, however, the link below basically shows what I did. My ground is on the same spot with a screw and nut holding the ground on there.

Routing along the roof line can be done by simply tucking the wire in between the windshield and the roof trim. If you want your wire anchored on something in case your radar falls you might want to do an extra step per the instructions on this thread and remove your overhead lighting and somehow anchor this wire on something sturdy (wrap it around something safe).

As the for routing down the A-pillar.

If I remember correctly this is the method I had followed:

http://www.1addicts.com/forums/showthread.php?t=346341

Basically you gently pry the cover off, unscrew, gently pull away.

WARNING: You have side curtain airbags and you must be absolutely certain to not damage these nor obstruct them.

I don't think I could get my A pillar trim detached fully, especially where it meets the dash, however, I had enough room to route it without it interfering with the airbags. Then again the explosive power of the airbags won't be stopped by much.

This is a far better method IMO as vampire clips weaken the wire that they are feeding into and that can be an expensive fix if severed and new wires have to be run.

I hope this helps.


Quote:
Originally Posted by radarguy View Post
jhay The fuse panel is behind the glove box. See here for a photos on how to access the fuses and the correct fuse location.
This is a good write-up - Wish I had seen it before I did my install.

Last edited by joder; 05-19-2014 at 07:54 PM.
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  #87  
Old 05-24-2014, 10:31 AM
jhav jhav is offline
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Thanks @radarguy & @joder --- hoping to knock this out over the holiday weekend. Very much appreciated.
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Current: 2014 550i (F10) - Graphite/Mocha
ZMM, ZCW, ZEC, ZLP, 337, 4MR, 5DP, 704, Z06. 32% tint, painted side reflectors, painted M5 spoiler, hardwired RD, coded, 343M summer/351M winter wheels.

Past: 2011 335is CV (E93) - Space Gray/Saddle Brown 6MT
Past: 2005 545i (E60)- Black/Tan 6MT
Past: 1997 Acura 2.2 CL - Black/Gray 5MT
-------
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Current: 2014 X5 3.5i (Imperial Blue/Tan)
Past: 2012 X5 3.5i (White/Tan)
Past: 2008 X5 3.0i (White/Tan)
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  #88  
Old 05-30-2014, 12:48 PM
jhav jhav is offline
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Hard-wired my Passport Max with 'Live' Controller last weekend -- thought I'd share some pictures of my wiring path as I'm pretty happy with the final result and the final location of the 'live' remote. The wires are tucked behind the mouldings for almost the entire run - very discreet install. Took <1 hour from start to finish.

Thanks to both @radarguy & @joder for your links and posts regarding the fuse panel wiring - it worked perfectly.

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Current: 2014 550i (F10) - Graphite/Mocha
ZMM, ZCW, ZEC, ZLP, 337, 4MR, 5DP, 704, Z06. 32% tint, painted side reflectors, painted M5 spoiler, hardwired RD, coded, 343M summer/351M winter wheels.

Past: 2011 335is CV (E93) - Space Gray/Saddle Brown 6MT
Past: 2005 545i (E60)- Black/Tan 6MT
Past: 1997 Acura 2.2 CL - Black/Gray 5MT
-------
Wife:
Current: 2014 X5 3.5i (Imperial Blue/Tan)
Past: 2012 X5 3.5i (White/Tan)
Past: 2008 X5 3.0i (White/Tan)
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  #89  
Old 05-30-2014, 12:52 PM
joder joder is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jhav View Post
Hard-wired my Passport Max with 'Live' Controller last weekend -- thought I'd share some pictures of my wiring path as I'm pretty happy with the final result and the final location of the 'live' remote. The wires are tucked behind the mouldings for almost the entire run - very discreet install. Took <1 hour from start to finish.

Thanks to both @radarguy & @joder for your links and posts regarding the fuse panel wiring - it worked perfectly.
This looks great!! I like the location for your Live box. I had debated going this route to have an easy mute button press. I opted instead to just go with the radar and reach over and mute when need to.

Did you have a hard time routing the wires through the middle console behind the radio, etc?
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  #90  
Old 05-30-2014, 01:13 PM
jhav jhav is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by joder View Post
Did you have a hard time routing the wires through the middle console behind the radio, etc?
No - the wires sink perfectly into the indentation between the cupholder and the radio. They sink REALLY deep on their own - as you can see they are not visible whatsoever. No need to remove anything to get them across.

I use the mute button on the remote fairly frequently and need it next to me - especially with the RD mounted up high and the Mute button on top of the Max.
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Current: 2014 550i (F10) - Graphite/Mocha
ZMM, ZCW, ZEC, ZLP, 337, 4MR, 5DP, 704, Z06. 32% tint, painted side reflectors, painted M5 spoiler, hardwired RD, coded, 343M summer/351M winter wheels.

Past: 2011 335is CV (E93) - Space Gray/Saddle Brown 6MT
Past: 2005 545i (E60)- Black/Tan 6MT
Past: 1997 Acura 2.2 CL - Black/Gray 5MT
-------
Wife:
Current: 2014 X5 3.5i (Imperial Blue/Tan)
Past: 2012 X5 3.5i (White/Tan)
Past: 2008 X5 3.0i (White/Tan)
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  #91  
Old 06-03-2014, 02:08 PM
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Chuck W. Chuck W. is offline
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Many thanks Scott (sep23). I followed your instructions to the letter and it was as easy DIY. I now have my V1 hardwired to the overhead console and dash cam hardwired to the rear view mirror!
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  #92  
Old 06-25-2014, 07:35 PM
Mojizel Mojizel is offline
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great work and great job documenting all the steps
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  #93  
Old 06-30-2014, 11:17 AM
tlr550 tlr550 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by john_malek View Post
I tried to follow this on my 2014 535i, but the green brown wire didn't have any power going through it. Did these instructions work for anyone, or did the LCI change the wiring?
Did you confirm what wire it is for a 2014 F10? Is it not the Green/Brown anymore? I am doing same install and that would be a helpful piece of info. Thanks
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  #94  
Old 06-30-2014, 12:46 PM
joder joder is offline
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I thought this too when I did it - I think there is power going through it but I had trouble getting through the cover. I would recommend wiring down to your fuse box anyways. I don't like wire taps for many reasons.
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  #95  
Old 09-06-2014, 04:43 PM
mikeyatusabe mikeyatusabe is offline
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good write up
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  #96  
Old 11-02-2014, 11:54 PM
M6Love M6Love is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jhav View Post
Hard-wired my Passport Max with 'Live' Controller last weekend -- thought I'd share some pictures of my wiring path as I'm pretty happy with the final result and the final location of the 'live' remote. The wires are tucked behind the mouldings for almost the entire run - very discreet install. Took <1 hour from start to finish.

Thanks to both @radarguy & @joder for your links and posts regarding the fuse panel wiring - it worked perfectly.

Wow, this is really good wiring, I can't see any wires of the radar detector at all

So did you just push the wires in ?
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Last edited by M6Love; 11-15-2014 at 12:54 AM.
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  #97  
Old 11-29-2014, 01:13 PM
jhav jhav is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by M6Love View Post
Wow, this is really good wiring, I can't see any wires of the radar detector at all

So did you just push the wires in ?
Sorry - haven't visited the forum in a few weeks... Yep -- the wires easily tuck in everywhere. I did need to remove the passenger-side A pillar and the 'plastic piece' on the right-side of the glove compartment for easy access, but I assume you knew that already. Very happy with the install and the placement of the remote sensor --- extremely user-friendly.
__________________
Current: 2014 550i (F10) - Graphite/Mocha
ZMM, ZCW, ZEC, ZLP, 337, 4MR, 5DP, 704, Z06. 32% tint, painted side reflectors, painted M5 spoiler, hardwired RD, coded, 343M summer/351M winter wheels.

Past: 2011 335is CV (E93) - Space Gray/Saddle Brown 6MT
Past: 2005 545i (E60)- Black/Tan 6MT
Past: 1997 Acura 2.2 CL - Black/Gray 5MT
-------
Wife:
Current: 2014 X5 3.5i (Imperial Blue/Tan)
Past: 2012 X5 3.5i (White/Tan)
Past: 2008 X5 3.0i (White/Tan)
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  #98  
Old 12-03-2014, 11:42 AM
asiangear asiangear is offline
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I tapped my power source to the same wire as the homelink garage opener power. But I noticed I have the delay of ~2 sec when I power off the car. Someone previously mentioned it might be some type of smart relay. Is there another power source I can tap where it will instantly power off and not have a delay?
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  #99  
Old 12-04-2014, 07:34 AM
Stahl Stahl is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jhav View Post
Hard-wired my Passport Max with 'Live' Controller last weekend -- thought I'd share some pictures of my wiring path as I'm pretty happy with the final result and the final location of the 'live' remote. The wires are tucked behind the mouldings for almost the entire run - very discreet install. Took <1 hour from start to finish.

Thanks to both @radarguy & @joder for your links and posts regarding the fuse panel wiring - it worked perfectly.

I ran my wires the same way but mounted the mute/live thing between the drives seat and center console using course velcro. Very discreet and I do not have to reach anywhere to mute
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  #100  
Old 12-07-2014, 08:58 AM
Kosd Kosd is offline
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I did this install with my passport 8500 yesterday. A couple of tips:

My radar detector uses a phone cable for power and ground. While the outer sheath of the phone wire was easy to strip, I had allot of trouble stripping the very thin phone wires inside. All of my strippers were too big and using a razor resulted in cutting away some of the wire. A trick I found on YouTube for this is to use a lighter. Heat the insulation for one second via contact with the flame and then use gloved fingers to pull away the insulation. It comes right off clean. This is especially helpful if you are stripping in the center of a wire to tap into it.

Another tip is to avoid the use of the crimp on add a wire type plastic connectors that clamp into an exist sting wire. I had everything connected and working perfectly but later on the ground must have come a little bit loose and I had to take everything back apart to troubleshoot. I opted to get rid of those and just solder the connections. Surprisingly, I found soldering the wires almost as fast as trying to use the crimp connects and much more reliable with the movement and temperature changes the car will experience...
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