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E39 (1997 - 2003)
The BMW 5-Series (E39 chassis) was introduced in the United States as a 1997 model year car and lasted until the 2004 when the E60 chassis was released. The United States saw several variations including the 525i, 528i, 530i and 540i. -- View the E39 Wiki

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  #26  
Old 07-13-2014, 05:24 AM
Burning2nd Burning2nd is offline
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you have to do the fan clutch... I hope your not planning on skipping it..

THE aux fan is for the ac system not the engine...
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  #27  
Old 07-13-2014, 07:05 AM
jarhed1964 jarhed1964 is online now
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Burning2nd View Post
you have to do the fan clutch... I hope your not planning on skipping it..

THE aux fan is for the ac system not the engine...


Quote:
Originally Posted by MR525i View Post
Thanks for all the great info guys,

I let the shop install the fan clutch and that allowed me to get it home safe without any overheating. I'll purchase the resistor pack repair kit and get into that in the next couple days. Felt more comftrable doing the resistors over the fan clutch. Both look pretty straight forrward but didnt have the tools for the fan clutch job.

Thanks!

-Mike

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  #28  
Old 07-13-2014, 10:43 AM
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bluebee bluebee is offline
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Originally Posted by MR525i View Post
I let the shop install the fan clutch and that allowed me to get it home safe without any overheating.
There is a recent thread where one of the bimmerfesters (Teklord69) is driving around as a test for the team, without ANY fan clutch ... so, it's interesting that you can get home without a mechanical fan in the first place.
- My new fan shroud "mod"
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Each repair should invariably add to our knowledge base by the process of inexorable incrementalism.
Your job, in return, is to read the suggested threads, where the best people will always add value to those threads, either by pictures or by descriptions, so the next person with the same problem stands on your shoulders.
See also: E39 Bestlinks & How to easily find what you need

Last edited by bluebee; 07-13-2014 at 10:47 AM.
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  #29  
Old 07-14-2014, 06:32 PM
MR525i MR525i is offline
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Just when you think you have it all figured out.....

So today while driving home from work (12mi commute @86-90 degree weather / AC On) while about 2 blocks from the house the water temp gauge starts to creep. I kept an eye on it and parked with the engine on and popped the hood. Aux fan is running / Fan clutch doesn't seem to be engaged fully.

Keep in mind:
Brand new fan clutch
Brand new aux fan assembly

I turned the car off and let it cool for a couple minutes and started it back up. I revved the motor a bit and the fan clutch seemed nice and engaged. It pushed enough air after a few revs and the temp went back down.

Thoughts?

Not sure if the radiator is due for replacement at this point. or if the fan clutch that the shop installed is defective or something. When i called the shop he said its normal for it to dis engage after driving for a bit. It all seems very odd. I've already had the head rebuilt and the motor is solid. I can upload a list of everything else that has been replaced in the last 10,000 miles. Only thing i haven't changed is the radiator!

Could use some help on this one.
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  #30  
Old 07-14-2014, 06:35 PM
jarhed1964 jarhed1964 is online now
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Did the shop bleed the cooling system properly? The bubbles will work their way out eventually, but it's worth checking. Right amount of coolant in the reservoir? Did you replace the water pump while you were down there?
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  #31  
Old 07-14-2014, 09:08 PM
MR525i MR525i is offline
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The shop did bleed the system and it was totaly flushed about 80 miles before that. The water pump has been replaced in the last 10,000 miles as well

What kind of life do people see out of a radiator. I'm at 214,000

Thinking it's the next logical step. But hate to keep swapping out parts if they are not at fault.
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  #32  
Old 07-16-2014, 09:11 AM
MR525i MR525i is offline
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Looks like i'll have it back in the shop to replace the radiator. I watched the temp again yesterday after driving for some time.

Ran test #7 on the OBC to watch the engine temp. At about 111 Celsius it starts to dive.

The motor would hover around 105 / 106 Celsius and then if i let it stand in one place it would climb up. When i cranked the heater up to 90f (defrost mode) the temp would come back down considerably.

Wondering what the "normal" temp should look like for the Test #7.0?

I have a feeling that the radiator should do the trick here.

I'm also having a hard time figuring out when the aux fan is sopposed to kick in on its slow and high speeds. I just read the following from another post:

http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/sho...d.php?t=432457

"The slow speed of your electric fan kicks in at 196d F or 91d C.

The high speed kicks in at 219d F or 104d C.

Measured at the radiator outlet.

All per Bentley."


If the coolant is running that hot it seems that the radiator is totally old and has lost its efficiency. especialy given that a new aux fan / fan clutch have been installed. I'm anxious to take a look at the Test #7.0 when i have the radiator swapped out
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  #33  
Old 07-16-2014, 10:05 PM
MR525i MR525i is offline
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Just went out to test the car to see if i could replicate the issue.

outside temp is 76-77 F and its been cold for 24 hours.

I ran the OBC Test #7.0 while driving to keep an eye on the coolant temp

After driving around the needle finds center at around 76 C.

After i got back the house it was sitting around 97 C. I sat there and let it sit for a while and sure enough it will reach 111 / 112 C and the needle starts to climb as it should. Coolant is much too hot!

Heres my question though: After installing the new Aux Fan assembly and the new fan clutch. Shouldn't the aux fan be kicking in to try to cool down the coolant passing through the radiator?

The only time it kicks on is when i have the AC running. If the AC isn't on then the Aux fan didn't seem to kick in at all during this process. Should the fan clutch engage more during this heating process too? I noticed that the fan clutch seems like it produces a ton of airflow and is engaged when i start the car and then it seems to just kinda chill at one speed even when things are heating up.

Normal?

Is there a relay I'm missing somewhere for the AUX fan that tells it to kick on when the motor is that hot. I would imagine it should be kicking in the highest speed at that point.

Help!
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  #34  
Old 07-18-2014, 11:01 AM
MR525i MR525i is offline
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Bump

Anyone have any info reguarding my above posts
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  #35  
Old 07-18-2014, 11:16 AM
HTK12 HTK12 is online now
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No the aux fan is normally only kicking in with AC on. Fan clutch should be locking up keep the temps lower. So the fan clutch isn't doing it's job. The car won't overheat even without the aux fan, if the fan clutch is working as it should. The aux fan isn't designed to control the coolant temps, it's there just for the AC. However it will help keeping the temps lower when you got AC on.
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  #36  
Old 07-18-2014, 12:06 PM
MR525i MR525i is offline
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Thanks for the reply,

That makes sense. Wondering if the new fan clutch is faulty or if the radiator is just shot.

Thanks,
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  #37  
Old 07-18-2014, 12:28 PM
HTK12 HTK12 is online now
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MR525i View Post
Thanks for the reply,

That makes sense. Wondering if the new fan clutch is faulty or if the radiator is just shot.

Thanks,
Test the fan clutch. There is no need to guessing. So get the engine warm and test the fan clutch. However according what you said it's most likely bad. The fan clutch should have been fully locked way before hitting 110C. Youtube got videos on how to test fan clutch on e39. Basically get the engine hot roll a newspaper and push it on the center of the fan. You can't stop the fan when the fan clutch is fully locked. I don't see how the radiator could be bad based on your description. If the radiator was blocked it would overheat when driving.
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  #38  
Old 07-18-2014, 03:31 PM
Burning2nd Burning2nd is offline
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wait till the morning when the engine is cool... and check your coolant level.. by now it would have pushed the air to the front of the system
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  #39  
Old 07-21-2014, 02:53 PM
MR525i MR525i is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HTK12 View Post
Test the fan clutch. There is no need to guessing. So get the engine warm and test the fan clutch. However according what you said it's most likely bad. The fan clutch should have been fully locked way before hitting 110C. Youtube got videos on how to test fan clutch on e39. Basically get the engine hot roll a newspaper and push it on the center of the fan. You can't stop the fan when the fan clutch is fully locked. I don't see how the radiator could be bad based on your description. If the radiator was blocked it would overheat when driving.
I'll give this a shot again today. Would be surprising if a new fan clutch failed off the bat but ill test to find out.
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  #40  
Old 07-21-2014, 02:55 PM
MR525i MR525i is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Burning2nd View Post
wait till the morning when the engine is cool... and check your coolant level.. by now it would have pushed the air to the front of the system
I'll take a look at this prior to testing the fan clutch. the car has been sitting for 2 days so its good timing.
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  #41  
Old 07-23-2014, 07:50 AM
MR525i MR525i is offline
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Had it in the shop yesterday,

The shop replaced the Thermostat and bled the coolant.

So far so good. I was monitoring the temps again (bad habit) and yesterday at idol got around 105-106C Still not sure if this is too hot or if that is normal.

Any additional info would be great,

Thanks,
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  #42  
Old 07-23-2014, 08:33 AM
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bluebee bluebee is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MR525i View Post
105-106C Still not sure if this is too hot or if that is normal. Any additional info would be great,
It should be listed in this thread found simply by typing /temperature f3 in the bestlinks:
- What is the temperature of the coolant & when the thermostat opens under normal conditions (1)

To help out, you should add a picture of what your cluster is showing, with a description of the problem, so that the information you've learned is imparted to the rest of us where we will be looking.

Here's a picture of my M54 temperature readout, for example:


EDIT:
And here's VitaminXX's M54 temperature fluctuations ...
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Each repair should invariably add to our knowledge base by the process of inexorable incrementalism.
Your job, in return, is to read the suggested threads, where the best people will always add value to those threads, either by pictures or by descriptions, so the next person with the same problem stands on your shoulders.
See also: E39 Bestlinks & How to easily find what you need

Last edited by bluebee; 07-23-2014 at 08:40 AM.
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  #43  
Old 07-23-2014, 08:34 AM
lordhifi lordhifi is offline
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I just saved that link! Prices are crazy! Thank you!
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  #44  
Old 07-24-2014, 11:10 AM
MR525i MR525i is offline
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Thanks for the info,

I've replaced the Thermostat as i beleive it was sticking. So far no issues. I still feel like the coolant is running a bit hot but after searching it sounds fairly normal (95-105 C)

Hope things are smooth from here.

thanks,
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  #45  
Old 07-24-2014, 01:48 PM
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golferjohnm golferjohnm is offline
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I recently completed a cooling system overhaul and my 'new normal' operating temperature under light/cruising load is 109*C with the aux fan kicking-in at 111*C

Prior to the overhaul, my Test #7 was 104C*-106*C, and the aux fan would begin at
111*C. I questioned my Indy and he verified that 109* was within tolerance.

The fan clutch will help with air-flow when the coolant temperature rises, but if you're sitting in traffic at idle, there's not enough RPM's to allow it to move enough air...that's when the aux fan should/will kick-in.

Being the skeptic that I am, I researched what 'normal' is and, in fact, I am within range.

One other thing that I noticed on a trip over The Cascade Mountains was that the coolant temperature would reduce significantly when I put a 'load' on it. Travelling up the pass and maintaining an 85-90mph clip dropped the temp as low as 94*C which tells me that the system is working exactly as designed...to run at the highest possible temperature under cruising situations for the most efficient emissions then adjusting for whatever demand is required. I must say, my 540 has never ran better and it has over 150,000 miles
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  #46  
Old 07-28-2014, 07:32 PM
MR525i MR525i is offline
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Hey all. Another 95 degree day here in Portland and after driving the car to home from work the coolant temp got up to 111 c and temp gauge starts to dive. I let the windows down and turned the climate control to 90 and needle drops. With it at full blast I got the temp down to 104/105 while driving / idol.

Any thoughts here. I'm kinda stumped. Thinking it could be the radiator but don't know anything for sure at this point.
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