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Go Back   Bimmerfest - BMW Forums > BMW Model Discussions > 5 Series > E39 (1997 - 2003)

E39 (1997 - 2003)
The BMW 5-Series (E39 chassis) was introduced in the United States as a 1997 model year car and lasted until the 2004 when the E60 chassis was released. The United States saw several variations including the 525i, 528i, 530i and 540i. -- View the E39 Wiki

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  #1  
Old 07-12-2014, 07:43 AM
pred pred is offline
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Location: Pennsylvania
 
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Mein Auto: lots of cars
528IT dead battery, Even after unplugging FSU Found it,! ! ! ! !

I last drove the car Tuesday the 8th and all was fine on the 315 mile drive,
Today the 12th and battery was too low for the electric key to work,
I used the key and found the battery basically flat, I put a charger on the battery and closed the door and sat inside the car with no key in ignition,
I could here what sounded like either a relay softly clicking OR a blower on real slow, Sounded like it was coming from the HVAC control panel under the radio.
The car charged up easy and started nice and I ran it for 30 min or so and shut the car off,
All quiet, Nothing going on,
Can is a 1999 528IT manual with about 150k miles on it,
Any ideas on this matter?
I did run the heat and air and worked the fan control manually and let it run on auto and everything seems to work properly,
I have to be away from the car today driving a back up,,
Ill check it later when I get back to see if its still holding a charge,
I can spend some time on it tomorrow,
What shall I check first?
Thank you
Peter B
It basically is dying overnight with the FSU unplugged,
Please lee later posts.

Last edited by pred; 08-13-2014 at 08:27 PM.
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  #2  
Old 07-12-2014, 08:17 AM
jygesq jygesq is offline
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Mein Auto: 2000 528 MT
Classic symptoms of bad FSU

www.540i6.com . Go to they all do that FSU . Replace only with dealer part!
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  #3  
Old 07-12-2014, 09:31 AM
ndz ndz is offline
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Location: AT LARGE
 
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Mein Auto: 99 540iT, 00 528i/5
The noise you are hearing is the IHKA sampling fan. It runs for 16 min after a door handle, keyless, or ignition off. It's not related to the FSU.

http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/sho...d.php?t=422191

This little fan is unlikely to kill your battery. An FSU can kill it if it runs the main blower when the car is off but your post doesn't suggest that. How old is your battery?

FSU replacement is not a bad idea anyway if you haven't changed it. Main symptom is erratic fan speeds that don't match the display. I haven't had any problems (yet) with the $50 Behr FSU (sourced from AutohausAZ).
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00 528i/5 - Grüen Arrow
93 740i - Grün Hornet (sold)
00 740iL (R.I.P.)
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  #4  
Old 07-12-2014, 04:01 PM
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bluebee bluebee is offline
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Location: San Jose, California
 
Join Date: Mar 2008
Posts: 21,841
Mein Auto: 02 BMW 525i M54 auto 130K
We've all been there before, so, start with the basics:
- DIY how to test a BMW E39 battery & alternator

See also:
- How to troubleshoot a bad FSU final stage unit (1) and how to build a test jig for your FSR final stage resistor (1) & how to autopsy or repair solder cracks in your blower motor resistor (1) & how to replace your HVAC blower resistor (1) & what FSU is the right one to buy (1) & how to remove the IHKA heater air conditioning control panel to clean the circuit board (1) & how to check the HVAC (IHKA) sampling fan (1) & how to correctly measure cockpit AC temperature (1) & where is the HVAC/IHKA solar sensor located (1) & where to find your low pressure airconditioning recharge port (1) & how to recharge or refill your A/C system for $20 (1) & what refrigerant PAG oil to use (1) & how to diagnose A / C compressor knocking sounds (1) & how to learn about (1) and set up your air conditioning (1) & how to replace the activated charcoal cabin air filter (1) & what cabin filter to buy (1) & cn90's inexpensive cabin filter retrofit (1) & everything there is to know about stinky gym sock AC odors (1) & R134a conversion information (1) & air conditioner compressor replacement DIYs (1) or compressor rebuilds (1) or ac hose rebuilding services (1) & how to remove the trim and bracket holding the MID & HVAC/IHKA panels (1) & how to replace just the IHKA button (1) & how to change OBC MID IHKA KTMP temperature from degrees Celcius to Fahrenheit (1) & how to diagnose lack of HVAC/IHKA heater core heat with cooling system (auxiliary pump) at idle (1)
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Please read the suggested threads, where the best always add value to those threads, either by pictures or by descriptions, so the next person with the same problem stands on your shoulders.
See also: E39 Bestlinks & How to easily find what you need
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  #5  
Old 07-13-2014, 06:54 PM
pred pred is offline
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Well I unplugged the FSU last evening and I needed to jump the car to get it started,
I ran it for about 10 minutes,
Shut it off and restarted about 5 min later,
Let wagon sit for 24 hours and the battery is low again,
I just put it on a slow charger,
I cant tell how old the battery is as the installer didnt pop off the small date codes BUT the codes read this,
1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9
SO I am thinking its 01 02 03 04, ECT ECY ECT which means the battery is older.
Ive had batteries fail in the same fashion in the past.
Guess I need to do and amp draw on positive terminal before buying a new one,
The New FSU is on the way and the current one is unplugged at this time,
Is there another common draw source?
I dont know if this has any effect on the issue, But Ive also been experiencing radio failure for the past two weeks, but no dead cell issues,
I DID find the blower seemingly running real slow the one night when I hooked up the cables,
Ugh,
I really cant afford to send the wagon out and I need it for my weekly highway trips.
Any additional advice would be welcomed !
Peter
Added pic which on the side you can see the date codes,
OLD ? ? ? ?
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Last edited by pred; 07-13-2014 at 06:56 PM.
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  #6  
Old 07-14-2014, 01:27 PM
ndz ndz is offline
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Location: AT LARGE
 
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Mein Auto: 99 540iT, 00 528i/5
Quote:
Originally Posted by bluebee View Post
We've all been there before, so, start with the basics:
- DIY how to test a BMW E39 battery & alternator
.
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99 540iT -
00 528i/5 - Grüen Arrow
93 740i - Grün Hornet (sold)
00 740iL (R.I.P.)
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  #7  
Old 07-14-2014, 01:32 PM
edjack edjack is offline
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Measure the overnight battery voltage and report back.
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  #8  
Old 07-15-2014, 08:03 PM
pred pred is offline
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I fully charged the battery today and it was at 12.6V\ Disconnected the negative cable from the battery
Did a 100 Amp load test for 15 seconds and voltage dropped to 11.5 during test, Then returned to 12.6 after test.
Hooked up Amp meter to battery - terminal to chassis and measures 5+ Amps with interior lights on,
.60 Amps with lights out
.05 Amps after 25 minutes when I went back out to check it.
I will have the 12 hour test with nothing hooked up in the morning,
Ive only owned the car for 9 months and the past two weeks have revealed an occasional radio going silent but display still responding and if I turn off and back on a couple time it starts playing again. ~ ~ ~ ~ and then the battery started dying overnight,
Alternator charges just fine.
No lights on,
FSU unplugged.
Seems as though as this warmer weather arrived, So have these issues.
In the winter I didnt drive it and would leave it for two weeks without any issues at all, It would start right up.
Not the case now. Ugh

Last edited by pred; 07-16-2014 at 04:04 PM.
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  #9  
Old 07-15-2014, 08:36 PM
edjack edjack is offline
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Your current drain, at 50 mA, is normal. How old is the battery?

Even with a fresh one, they have trouble staying alive after a couple of weeks.

I recently discovered that the car wakes up every minute to check cabin and external temps!
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  #10  
Old 07-15-2014, 11:07 PM
Crutzy Crutzy is offline
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What did autozone tell you when they tested the battery and alternator?
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  #11  
Old 07-16-2014, 04:11 AM
pred pred is offline
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Didnt take battery and parts to Autozone,
6am this morning,
battery holding at 12.6v
Still disconnected from negative cable.
Did 10 second 100 Amp draw, Dropped to 11.5 volts and went back to 12.6d.
Just attached amp draw meter and have the same .60 waiting for 16 minutes to pass by and I expect this to turn out the same.
Arg !!
Crutzy,
I know the Alternator charges properly,
By doing an Amp draw test, it will tell me if the alternator has bad diodes or a short causing drain when the ignition is off as it would show up with the amp draw test,
Is there another reason why I should take the alternator to Autozone?
If I am forced to pull alternator, I will replace it with a new one. But I doubt that its the issue,
I absolutley hate issues which dont add up.
Ive got to go off to work,
So another Volt test, 100 amp load test and amp draw later today,
This work thing really gets in the way of life.
This last round of tests have been done without the battery hooked to negative cable,

Last edited by pred; 07-16-2014 at 04:06 PM.
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  #12  
Old 07-16-2014, 05:47 AM
jygesq jygesq is offline
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Is battery still dying overnight

Maybe I did not read your last post correctly. If it is not dying then it is FSU as you state it is out. What is voltage when car is running without lights or any other draw?
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  #13  
Old 07-16-2014, 03:53 PM
pred pred is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jygesq View Post
Maybe I did not read your last post correctly. If it is not dying then it is FSU as you state it is out. What is voltage when car is running without lights or any other draw?
IF I have the battery hooked up it dies overnight even when the FSU is unplugged,So far Ive left the battery NOT hooked up and it seems to hold a charge overnight,
When vehicle is running it stays a steady 13.7v.
Another round of tests coming later tonight,
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  #14  
Old 07-16-2014, 08:04 PM
jygesq jygesq is offline
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Mein Auto: 2000 528 MT
There must be other drain than FSU

You seemed to have eliminated that as suspect.
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  #15  
Old 07-16-2014, 08:41 PM
pred pred is offline
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Still haven't recharged the battery and its still holding about 12.6v.
100 Amp load test for 10 seconds, goes to 11.5v then back to 12.6.
Hooked up amp meter in series and checked after 20 min, Sitting at .05 amp draw,
i then turned on alarm and checked 20 min later, Reading .06 Amp draw,
FSU still not hooked up,
Ill hook up the battery tomorrow and leave it for another 12 hours and see it it dies again,
I don't mind issues which I can hunt down and find, But I can't find why the battery drains when hooked up but not when it just sits or when the meter is hooked up drawing only .05 Amps,
What is acceptable parasitic draw for these cars in Wagon form?
1999 528it with manual trans.
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  #16  
Old 08-13-2014, 08:33 PM
pred pred is offline
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I found the draw ! ! !
Car draws a steady 20 MA at rest,
It was an issue with the radio head unit (Cassette player)
While I was monitoring the dang car it would sit at .02 Amps and each time I checked and no change,
I had an inkling that the radio was an issue as it would cut out on occasion and needed to be turned off and back on to get it to play when I turned the car off and back on,
Well one afternoon I came home from work to check the draw again and found it the normal .02 but the battery was a bit drained,
And then soon I noticed that the AMP was warm,
HMmmmm That was odd,
I replaced the head unit and all has been well for two weeks,
Somehow the stock radio would turn on the amp and just suck battery power,
Go figure,
Still have the stock amp in there and no issues,
Just a new head unit which turned on the Amp from time to time when I was NOT looking,
Peter
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