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Quick Guide to Oil in Your E36

377K views 407 replies 108 participants last post by  hornhospital 
#1 ·
This guide will help you understand what we recommend for your E36. This guide primarily focuses on the I6 models (M50, M50TU, S50, M52TU, S52), but is a good starting point for those of you with the I4s (M42 & M44). This guide is NOT intended to spoon feed you exactly what you should use for your exact car in your exact location, rather, to provide you with the information necessary to make an intelligent, educated decision based on your knowledge.

The first thing is, ABOVE ALL, read your manual. There is a chart printed with the proper viscosities in it. If you don't have one, there are places online you can download copies for free, or you should buy one. It is invaluable to have, and you absolutely should have a copy for your model of E36. The chart for the;) E36 M50TUB25 engine is shown later.

Filters

Your E36 uses a paper filter that sits in a canister, which is much more convenient than the metal units. BMW uses 3 suppliers for its OEM filters: Mann, Mahle, and Hengst. It's generally accepted that OEM BMW filters are superior to pretty much everything else on the market for E36s. They're available at your dealer, or you can buy them in bulk (~12 filters) from various sponsors for much cheaper. My recommendation here is absolutely to stick with one of the OEM BMW filters listed above.

Oil Types

Your E36 came with dino oil from the factory. Will it hurt to keep using it? No. But, full synthetic oil does have its advantages. Primarily, extended oil change intervals due to its chemical properties. If you're a nerd like many of us and want to know more, there are many great sites that go VERY in-depth about oil types. I won't cover that here. That said, it's generally accepted that once you use synthetic, you shouldn't switch back to dino. Also, it's generally accepted that higher-mileage engines shouldn't switch to synthetic. Again, I'm not going to debate the merits of those here, but if it concerns you, there is plenty of information on both sides of the debate available with a quick search on Google.

Oil Intervals

Another hotly contested subject. The quick recommendations:

Dino Oil: 3000-4000 miles
Full Synthetic: 6500-9000 miles

You'll hear claims that you can go to 8000 miles on dino from some nuts, and sadly even BMW recommends 15-18000 mile intervals for its new cars on synthetic. Personally, I would never dream of driving anywhere close to that long on one change. Keep in mind, if you put HARD MILES on your car, you need to change at or earlier than the lower recommended numbers above.

The HARDEST driving you can do to your car is frequent cold starts, and short drives. That 1.5 mile drive around the corner 10 times a day is the worst thing you could ever do, and you NEED to change the oil regularly if you drive like that. Obviously, tracking/racing/auto-x'ing is also hard driving, and if you do this regularly you should keep short intervals. The easiest type of mileage on your car is a nice constant cruise at 70MPH on the freeway.

Oil Brands

Oh fun. This is a good topic. I won't bother with dino oil here, but lets deal with synthetics, which are becoming increasingly more popular. In fact, I'll narrow it down to 2 that I'll discuss.

Mobil1: To be short, you can't go wrong with Mobil1 full synthetic of the right viscosity. It's a tried and true oil that performs to expectations. If you have any doubts or are not feeling particularly sporting or adventurous, no one will be upset if you use this.

Royal Purple: The drama. Royal Purple makes some pretty outrageous claims, like increasing horsepower and gas mileage. There are some that swear by it, and there are some that claim it will destroy your engine. A simple search should bring up plenty of arguments for and against. I won't pretend that you'll get a huge bump out of RP. I will say that I have used it on several cars for tens of thousands of miles combined, and the engines do seem to run smoother and quieter to the untrained ear on RP than other oils of the same viscosity (including M1 full synthetic). Personally, this is the oil I use, and will continue to use, until someone develops something better.

Oil Viscosities

There is NOT a one-size-fits-all answer for this. However, lucky you! BMW published just what you should use in your owners manual. It is climate specific, and if you live in a region that climate varies from season to season, then you likely will need to use different viscosities for cold and hot seasons. I would recommend using either exactly or just slightly above what BMW recommends for a higher mileage E36. Personally, living in sunny coastal California I was able to run 20W-50 all year round. Chances are, you won't be able to. So, READ THE MANUAL. Don't ask us what viscosity you personally should use, because we are not meteorologists for your region and we don't know your driving style. For most E36s on this board, this chart will give you a pretty good representation of what to use - I am fairly certain the same specs should be used for the M52 family, but not positive - hence why I say to read the manual for your model.

For the M50TUB25 engine, here is the chart BMW printed in their manual:



Hopefully this cleared up some confusion, and gives you a good idea of what we recommend around here. If you have a suggestion or correction, please feel free to post it or let me know and I'll add it. It's late and I may very well have missed something or screwed something up inadvertently. :rofl:
 
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#67 ·
10w-40 Castrol Syntec year around -20F to 95F with Mann filters. Change every spring, about 7000 mi. 127K on a 98 M52
 
#68 · (Edited)
First of all, drain intervals set by the manufacturer are usually extremely conservative. If BMW engineers recommend 15k miles, It's more than safe to do so. If you REALLY want to do what is right for your vehicle as far as lubrication goes, use a quality lubricant (fully synthetic goes without saying), use the proper viscosity for your driving environment, and read up on lubricants if you are really interested in selecting the best oil. Another tool available to the general public that you may not know about is used oil analysis. You want to know what drain intervals are safe in your vehicle? Have your oil analyzed at specified intervals to determine what is safe! Synthetic stock does not break down, the only problem that arises with synthetic oils is the breakdown of additives. The only way to tell for sure what condition your oil is in is by having it analyzed (unless you are a chemist capable of analyzing it yourself). Dirty oil is only an issue with clogged oil filters. This occurs when the filter bypass activates allowing debris to bypass the filter (bad news).

Note: Even if your oil is safe for continued use, that doesn't mean your oil filter is safe for continued use. I recommend changing your oil filter at 12-15k miles (the recommended interval).

The best resource to learn about lubricants I have found is www.bobistheoilguy.com check it out. Notice AMSOIL lubricants are a common conversation piece ^_- I happen to be a dealer.

Secondly, there can't be anything but a "QUICK GUIDE" to changing oil in an E36. Of all of the vehicles I have ever changed oil on, my E36 was the simplest one. Do not let others descriptions of the procedure intimidate you.

Edit: As far as oil viscosity's the two numbers represent viscosity at different temperatures (and have nothing to do with winter and summer). The lower the first number, the sooner your oil will start lubricating your engine. (I.E. a 0w-30 oil will lubricate sooner after engine start up than a 5w-30 oil. However, both oils will be the same viscosity at operating temp.)

If you have any questions I can help with, feel free to PM me.
 
#69 · (Edited)
This has been a fun read. But I need a lot more than oil info. I just bought a well used and beat up 1999 323i convertible. 145000 rough miles ***8211;body needs much TLC ***8211;interior ***8211;yeeks! I'm 65 years old-I used to know a lot about cars. Back in ***8216;63***8217; I actually did a little drag racing (Hudson Jet flat head 6 and Plymouth Valiant slant 6). Many years latter I'm in my second childhood and only my third sports car. (Wish I had kept the MG Midget and the Mazda RX7 :cry:) Still have the big 4 wheel D Jeep Grand Cherokee Overland, and my wife drives the Bimmer X3. I bought the 323i as a project/play car and plan on doing all my own work again. I opened the hood and of course I***8217;m still trying find the spark plugs and the carburetor <grin> :):hi:
To be serious I need to gain some insight into the new systems ODC and more of the tech stuff. The question is multifold; where and what manuals information should I be trying to find? I obviously do not have access to the BMW tech bulletins or service manuals - Are the old Hayes Manuals of any use? Where do I find more about just what I have in the way of engine ***8211;etc? I think from what I have read so far I have a E36 ? But what is that?
I don***8217;t expect answers here but direction as to where to find the answers would be helpful-I'll sit back and hopefully get an eye full. : popcorn:
If all else fails anyone out there know a GOOD BMW mechanic in Rhode Island area ***8211;I said good not ***8220;Inskip Motors Inc***8221;

Dr. Jim
 
#70 ·
Well Dr. Jim, you've come to the right place. I'll apologize in advance for those of us who are occasionally asshats, (myself included). For all of the manuals you could need click on the link in my sig.

For appeasement of the masses, please post pictures of your car in the appropriate section.

Welcome to the 'Fest!

Ed.
 
#78 ·
jonesin -update

Well Dr. Jim, you've come to the right place. I'll apologize in advance for those of us who are occasionally asshats, (myself included). For all of the manuals you could need click on the link in my sig.

For appeasement of the masses, please post pictures of your car in the appropriate section.

Welcome to the 'Fest!

Ed.
Took the new 1999 323i Cvetr to the Stratton October Fast t(Greem Mountain Club -nice group) two weeks ago. Cleaned it up a bit and went looking for help with what to do to retsore the former luster! I managed to enter her in the show -by mistake--thought it was admission. I then some how managed to win 2nd place in the unrestored class. I guess I should do a little more washing and waxing --and who knows what may happen. For now I'm doing mechanical stuff--auto transmission fluid flush. (it clunks between 2-3) Struts -beakes ands powersteering pump. Thats in for this years Budget! Any input is cook .

Hey jonesin --whats up with the thread I saw you posting in about a fest in Bimmervill Georga?? Will you really drive down from CA to GA?
 
#71 ·
The Bentley manual is the E36 service bible, and is an absolute necessity. I use it in combination with information I find online, which is overly abundant for the E36. If you have a question about your BMW, chances are somebody else has written about it.
 
#73 ·
Yeah, you can download it in PDF form from multiple sources if you take a few minutes to search around. I just have a PDF of it, which I actually think is better than the paper copy. It's very easy to use the table of contents in electronic form, and you can find what you're looking much more quickly when it's on a computer. When I'm working on my car, I just take my laptop out and use it like I would a paper copy.
 
#75 ·
I know this probably is a noob question, asked by many noobs and I am asking as well because I am confused. What grade oil should I need to use.

I just moved to Seattle from Miami. Since I bought the car back in 2004, I have been using Mobil1 Synthetic 10W-30 until my last oil change where I used 5W-30. But after reading this thread, I found the 10W-30 and 5W-30 are recommended to use where temp is 40F and below, which is complete opposite to what the weather in Miami is like. I am confused.

What grade is recommended to use in Seattle weather or what other members in Seattle area are using ? If I take back the car to Miami (I plan to do in about a year), what grade should I stick to where the weather is more like 60-100F.

I got 1996 328is coupe with 148k mileage.

Any info is really appreciated.
 
#81 ·
I've got Mobil 1 0w-40 in right now, but I've been thinking about trying the High Mileage. It's hot here in the summer, so 10w-40 would probably be fine. The high milage doesn't have the BMW Long Life certification, which turns alot of people off of it.
 
#79 ·
Substitute engine oil

Hi there :)
I have a 1997 e-36 318is/M44 engine (Euro version) BMW, with @16,000 Miles in wish I installed a Downing Atlanta Supercharger.
The car has been serviced by a BMW concessionary since new and they have been using BMW Super Power oil SAE 5W-40, which I understand is synthetic oil, as well as, Castrol is the official BMW oil fabricant supplier (Please correct me if I'm wrong)
My question is: Which Castrol brand oils should be the perfect substitute for the BMW Super Power Oil SAE 5W-40?
Other then the recommended Castrol perfect substitute, please feel free to recommend in addition the top notch Castrol oil you think would be the best one for this car Supercharged M44 engine, which I use on the streets regular drive occasionally, as well as, on Track days too.
Advanced thx for the broad help:thumbup:
Cheers
 
#83 ·
i import my oil from germany an pay $85 per oil change plus another $15 for the filter... im not sure the brand but it has the vanos oil in it... now i only have this bc the previous owner has always done it 2 the car. Ill share the brand after i look in my trunk after i get my car back after the secondary air pump gets put in... a$$ bags had my car all day an didnt touch it till half hour b4 service dept. closed 2day
 
#84 ·
Are you retarded?, or do you just think we all are?. If you care enough about your car to drop $100 per oil change why are you doing dumb shyt like putting on a "performance chip" that doesn't even cost as much as one of your oil changes?. Unless that oil comes with a complementary hummer from an 18 year old Swedish girl bathed in the same oil, I don't buy it for a second. Quit trying to impress people on the interwebs by talking about all the money you don't have, odds are pretty good none of us will ever see you in person and even if we did, we still wouldn't give a crap whether or not you're as loaded as you want us to think you are.
 
#85 ·
its not about being loaded... its about what has been put in2 my mint condition m3. the 1 previous owner has always imported his oil from germany and it has the vanos oil in it. when i bought the car in february not only did it have a fresh oil change but it has 6 quarts of some german brand oil and also an extra new filter... 2nd Dicksock i never put that chip on my car, its factory under the hood except for K&N cai and iridium ngks... im starting 2 think your a hater. I dont claim 2b rich u tool, i drive a 08 sentra and where i live thats not exactly ballin. im sorry that i lucked out and bought an awesome m3 while u may have overpayed for your mediocre 325 in which ive already owned the same car in white and practically junked it.
 
#86 ·
Where did you hear that the Vanos unit needs special oil? :confused: I have never heard any thing about that, and 20+ minutes of searching the interwebs has yielded didly, leading me to believe you are either entirely too trusting of what people tell you (not likely given your track record) or you just found a component which uses engine oil and made up a story about it needing special oil (if any one who knows their ass from a hole in the ground wants to correct me, please do so). Did you bother checking the label of this "some German brand" oil to see if it was in fact different in any way to what is available in the states?, googletranslate is an excellent tool to aid in this.

Wasn't the main reason you didn't install your performance chip that you couldn't find where to plug it in? :confused:.

I hate on people to need a good hatin', this I will admit freely.

True, you've not actually said that you're loaded, you just talk about ridiculously over priced maintenance or repairs that you could do if you needed too, say, as a result of finding the intake air temp sensor and installing your $70 resistor.

Your "awesome M3" really doesn't impress me very much, considering there are only three blurry as hell, probably cell phone, pictures of it. And it's sitting on ugly as sin, too big, chrome wheels.

My car on the other hand cost well under KBB, had a recently rebuilt tranny, and has an engine that has been taken care of since it was new, and still pulls as if it were.

The fact that you trashed a 3 series reflects much more poorly on you as a driver than on the car, any thing can be broken, but it takes a special kind of ignorance to break an M50 based engine, I assume the car you're referring to is the 328I in your profile album with two damaged valves, what did you do?, try engine breaking from 70 by putting it in 2nd at idle?.
 
#89 ·
like i said the previous owner imported his oil from germany. it has vanos oil in the formula and he payed $85 for this oil per change. This same guy is also selling a meticulus e46 M3.. i didnt have 20k laying around so i bought his e36. this guys had a ton of cars. classic porsches and ferraris and idky hes selling his bmws... most like the depreciation and considering his collection they were most likely just taking up space that he probably wants to fill w brand new cars. Again when i get my car back in the next cpl days ill let u know the brand and show a pic of the oil and u can feel like the red headed stepchild when ur slapped with "proof"
 
#90 · (Edited)
$$$ Oll

I'm using good old fashion 5w-3w synthetic Castrol in a 1999 323ic with 150,000 ***8211;burns no oil ***8211;runs like a top. I think you***8217;re over spending with the imported oil. But to be kind check the ***8216;specs***8217; and see if there is a significant difference if there is not use your savings from "local oil" then buy some ramps a bucket and change the sucker your self ***8211;more often with the $$$ you saved.:)
 
#91 · (Edited)
i my self havent had 2buy oil or change the oil... ive put 590mi on it since feb. 2011... it came with a fresh oil change an 6quats of imported oil and a filter so that in 5k more miles that i already have the same oil thats been going in2 the car for 116k mi..... lol trust me im down for saving.. idk but its 14bucks a quart, i did some mouse clicking an found redline synthetic 5w40 for 13 a quart but it didnt mention vanos.. so its not the right stuff... may b the german equivalence to castrol tws thats 12 a quart
 
#93 · (Edited)
Holy crap this oil thing is a really good read!!!!! Anyone that pay's $100 for an oil change is just flat out lazy really or just stupid. Thats just my own opinion. I have found in my experience that people that brag about all the high dollar stuff, have low self esteem and need to brag about having the best or being the one upper or saying all the stuff they have is better than yours just to make themselves feel better. DON'T WASTE MY TIME!!!! When we are stripped of everthing we have no one person is better than the next. So quit going back and forth about stupid shyt just keep on point with good information NO BS!!!

Ok now with that being said how is everyone doing?
 
#94 ·
Yeah, paying $100 for an oil service is insane, but whatever. I never understood why more people don't change their own oil, since it's barely more difficult than putting air in your tires. The dude above talking about imported oil with VANOS additives is a confirmed idiot with no BMW experience, so his comments should be disregarded.

Anyhow, everything is going well here in Seattle. My first track day at Pacific Raceways (or "SIR" for you ;) ) is coming up next week, so I'm excited about that.
 
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