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7 Series - E38 (1995 - 2001)
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#1
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Can someone tell me where i can find instructions for replacing my GUIBO on my 2001 e38?
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#2
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Here is a link for the E66 body. Mostly pictures start to finish.
I used this is a guide on my Guibo and CSB replacement. Also ended up replacing the rear csv ( i think that is correct) on the drive shaft into the differential. Its a time consuming job. In my case I had to remove the exhaust out of the car, remove the support brace for the transmission. Remember to support tranny with jack. Then unbolt the Driveshaft from the tranny and the differential. If your doing this yourself mark spots with a grease stick on the differential and the driveshaft. In my case, i had taken the parts into my local shop and let them change them all out, then i stuck it all back in.. in any event, hope this helps a bit http://www.flickr.com/photos/2810754...7623599676461/
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1997 Black 740IL (w\ badass Phone in console) |
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#3
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Thanks so much...i am assuming this is the same procedure on the E38....
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#4
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These are the photos I used when doing mine and I have an E38. And mine came out perfect. Its pretty self explanatory as your doing it, what needs to be removed in order to get to the stuff.
It was a bit of a hassle and slightly nerve racking having 2+ tons of car dangling over your head on jackstands. But its doable. the hardest part of the entire process was getting the exhaust back in by myself. Was a bit of a PITA....
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1997 Black 740IL (w\ badass Phone in console) |
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#5
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Personally if your going to this length. I would change the CSB and the CSV on the drive shaft was well. And then replace your Tranny mounting bushings., Since your gonna have pretty much everything out of the way anyway..
But thats what i did, doesnt mean you have to as well. I guess take a look see and determine if they need replaced...
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1997 Black 740IL (w\ badass Phone in console) |
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#6
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Can you tell me what the CSB and CSV is. In the instruction pics I see the Guibo, Constant velocity joint at the rear and universal joint in the middle. I agree if I have it apart may as well change out the parts. Also does any part of the job require a machine shop to press any parts. I noticed you stating you took the parts to a local shop to be put on. Thanks
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#7
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If I type /giubo (or even the mis-spelled guibo) into the best links, I get this:
- The main causes of vibration while highway driving (0) (1) (2) (3) (4) (5) & while highway braking (1) (2) (3) & why it's not rotor "warp" (1) & severe ABS shuddering while slow speed braking on bumps (1) & how fluid-filled thrust arm bushings crack and tear causing the BMW to vibrate at speed (0) (1) (1) (2) (3) (4) (5) (6) (7) (8) & a comprehensive TireRack vehicle vibration diagnosis chart (1) (jpg) with wheel match mounting hints (1) & how a worn drive shaft, flex disc, center bearing, or "giunti Boschi", aka giubo (it's not spelled guibo although it sounds like it is to some) can cause the vehicle to vibrate (1) (2) (3) (4) & how to repair the rear driveshaft seal by the differential (1) & how to repair the inner constant velocity (CV) half-drive shaft (1).
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Note: Your mission, should you decide to accept it, is to add value to those threads, either by pictures or by descriptions, so the next person with the same problem stands on your shoulders. See also: E39 Bestlinks & How to easily find what you need, in seconds! |
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#8
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Thanks bluebee
The links were very informative and I appreciate them. After reading I think I'll stick with the giunti Boschi for now. I don't have any issues except the clunk noise when going in reverse. From what I've read that should fix it. |
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