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Inspection II part I - Changing spark plugs DIY inside!

90K views 106 replies 61 participants last post by  OlgaMPM 
#1 · (Edited)
Edit: All 3 parts are online:
Inspection II part I: Changing your spark plugs
Inspection II part II: Cleaning MAF & replacing power steering fluid
Inspection II part III: Water pump, thermostat, belts, hoses, fuel filter

Today, I ordered online or bought everything I'll need for Inspection II:

Bought:
  • 6 spark plugs (Winchester Auto)
  • Anti-seize compound (Winchester Auto)
  • Dextron III ATF [for power steering] (Winchester Auto)
  • 7 Quarts of BMW 5W30 (Dealer)
  • 1 bottle of BMW coolant (Dealer)

Ordered (from Autohausaz.com):
  • Water pump (metal impeller)
  • Thermostat
  • idler pulleys
  • Belts
  • Radiator hoses
  • Fuel filter

I should have everything from autohausaz.com by next weekend to complete Inspection II - but I figure I'll do spark plugs now, since they're in my hand... and there's no "shared labor" between other Inspection II components. First, I headed over to the Wiki - the spark plug how-to didn't exactly match up - apparently my car uses a newer coil design ... so I figured I'd re-document the process. I may document the rest of my Inspection II next weekend as well :).

Spark Plug Replacement

Time required: 45 minutes including taking pictures and detailing your engine bay

Materials/tools required: 10mm socket, spark plug socket, 6" socket extension, anti-seize compound, 6 spark plugs, T30 Torx driver, 1 Franziskaner Hefe-Wisse, bottle opener.

Spark plugs - NGK BKR6EQUP. I believe these are OEM on the M52 and M54 engines (all non-M E46s).



Step 1: Remove cabin microfilter cover. This is done by twisting these three 'knobs' 90 degrees - it then lifts right out:



Step 2: Remove cabin microfilter (it lifts right out) and release wiring harness from microfilter enclosure. This is done by carefully pulling toward you from the bottom then lifting it up:



Here's a picture of it unclipped. There's a second clip on the other side.



Step 3: Unscrew the four T30 screws holding the microfilter enclosure in place. The enclosure then pulls right out. Place it aside (not on the engine like shown :))







Step 4: This step isn't necessary, but I like to check the condition of the engine at any opportunity. It'll also give me a chance to clean under there. A clean engine is a happy engine. Remove the first (top) plastic engine cover. To do this, use a flat-bladed screwdriver to pull out the two covers... then unscrew the bolts with your 10mm socket. Then lift it right off. :



Step 5: Remove the left plastic engine cover. To do this, you'll have to remove the oil cap. You can then pry out the covers and remove the nuts (not bolts this time) with your 10mm socket. Lift the cover right off and place aside, then put your oil cap back on - after all, you wouldn't want to drop anything down there.



Here's a picture of the engine with both covers off:



Step 6: Prepare your spark plug socket and your 6" extension. Spark plug sockets typically have a rubber washer in them to help "grab" the sparkplug. I read a handy tip that helped out here - wrap electrical tape around the socket and extension to keep them from coming apart when pulling the spark plug out:



Step 7:
Here are the coils. In the how-to I had previously linked in the wiki, you had to unbolt the coils. On my car, it's much easier - Pull the edge of the cover up in the direction of the arrow. It rotates up 90 degrees and the wiring plug automatically pops out of it.



The coil then pulls right off and up (don't be afraid to pull hard, it has to "pop" off of the sparkplug:



Here's a picture of the coil out of the car.



I changed the spark plugs one at a time, replacing each plugs coil before proceeding to the next one.


Step 8: (No picture) Place your extension and spark plug socket down into the hole that the coil came out of. Twist it until you can press it down on the spark plug (you'll feel it secure itself). Attach your socket wrench and loosen it - after a turn or so, you'll be able to disconnect your wrench and twist the rest of it out by hand.

Here's a picture of the new plug next to the old plug:



Step 9: Put anti-seize compound on the threads of the new plug. I placed some down the threads as seen here, then used a lint-free microfiber towel to coat the threads all around.



Step 10: Place the new spark plug inside your sparkplug socket and place it down in the hole. Twist by hand, then attach a torque wrench and torque down to 30nm. As you can see, I had no problems using my full size torque wrench even on the back socket. Firmly press the coil back onto the plug, then re-attach the wiring harness. To re-attach it, the top coil lever must be completely up in the vertical position. Then, when you snap it back down to the horizontal position, the wiring harness attaches itself firmly.



Step 11: Start car, verify it runs :).

Step 12: Open Franziskaner Hefe-Wisse with bottle opener. Not bad!
 
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#83 ·
You sir, are a huge asset to bimmerfest and the E46 community! Thanks for putting this up!
 
#84 ·
At 56k miles, I just replaced my spark plugs. if it wasn't for your awesome DIY and other supporting comments on this thread, i wouldn't have had the guts to tear into my engine bay. I would post some pictures up, but am embarrassed at how dirty my engine bay is! My spark plugs were just a dirty too. My son-in-law the mechanic helped out which was comforting and cool to have his tools at the ready. And, I did most of the work too! This almost completes my full Inspection II. Still need to get the fuel filter done. Will probably take it to a shop for that one.

I do have one question, when peering down the spark plug hole, the top of the cylinder was visible and it was fairly black with carbon.

I only have put super unleaded in my car but, haven't used any of the fuel system cleaners etc. Any suggestions on products to help this condition (if any?).

Thanks again!!!

Johnny
 
#85 ·
I do have one question, when peering down the spark plug hole, the top of the cylinder was visible and it was fairly black with carbon.

I only have put super unleaded in my car but, haven't used any of the fuel system cleaners etc. Any suggestions on products to help this condition (if any?).

Thanks again!!!

Johnny
Redline it more often.
 
#90 ·
Its funny, I just changed my spark plugs this afternoon and this thread comes back from the dead. It took me about an hour, I wasn't in any rush. My car has 60K miles and the plugs looked good, it almost was a shame to replace them.

Tomorrow its the CAB's and then the cooling system.
 
#91 ·
Dude! How goes it in the South Bay? I grew up in Gardena. Used to love to go to a place called The Burnt Tortilla on Western. Moved up to Northern Cal in 1983.

Johnny
 
#96 ·
Changed plugs still running rough....coils and cylinders

KRISL, man great. I just changed my plugs after wrestling over whether or not i can do it and it was like butter. Great instructions to the mechanical terrified to break something.

Now that i have done that the ride still runs a lot rougher, shakes and vibrations. When i change the plugs (E46 1999 323i) there were 3 out of the 6 spark plug socket covers that pratically did not have to use any effort to pull off and 3 that i really had to use a little mojo to get off. The three that need little effort, do they need to be replaced or is that how they are suppose to fit. the spring coil inside looked flat vs the others.

I feel like i am close to getting my baby back running properly without having to spend a lot of money at the dealer or independent. Do you think you have any advice on helping with this?

Thank you sir! I look forward to hearing from you!
 
#97 ·
KRISL, man great. I just changed my plugs after wrestling over whether or not i can do it and it was like butter. Great instructions to the mechanical terrified to break something.

Now that i have done that the ride still runs a lot rougher, shakes and vibrations. When i change the plugs (E46 1999 323i) there were 3 out of the 6 spark plug socket covers that pratically did not have to use any effort to pull off and 3 that i really had to use a little mojo to get off. The three that need little effort, do they need to be replaced or is that how they are suppose to fit. the spring coil inside looked flat vs the others.

I feel like i am close to getting my baby back running properly without having to spend a lot of money at the dealer or independent. Do you think you have any advice on helping with this?

Thank you sir! I look forward to hearing from you!
You say the car "still" runs rough - was it running rough before you did this?

The coils should be snug on the spark plugs... do you have a check engine light? If there is any spark plug misfire, the light should be on, and with a simple code reader you can identify the problem..
 
#98 ·
KrisL inspection II spark plugs DIY

KrisL,

I have a 2003 325i

That was an awesome post, followed your method, to the letter it was great. The photos make it all gel. Took my time and it went smooth. My coil cover popped up by finger 90 degees to the engine orientation, to the right, towards the drivers side. After completing called to check for an estimate, dealer ship $340.00 I'm sure an indy shop would be cheaper, but it sure makes you feel good when it all comes together. Thanks again.:thumbup:
 

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#100 ·
DIY Spark plugs

Hello everyone. I am going to change my spark plugs on my E46 in the next couple of days. I wanted to know if there is something else I should do in the area while I am at it. I am going to also change the cabin filter. Any insight or recommendations would be appreciated. thanks
 
#105 ·
First, I really appreciate the postings, thank you.

How to clean or what solvent is recommended for cleaning the dirt and oily surfaces?
I like Castrol Super Degreaser. If you`re working under the hood, be careful ! No hoses under the hood !. Use a bucket of hot water and some rags. You want to avoid getting too much water on any of the underhood electrical components.
 
#103 ·
Depends on what surface you're cleaning. For only the metal parts of the engine, I would use brake cleaner if you have it. For plastic parts, I would use Simple Green 50:50 solution. If you're talking about your entire engine compartment, I know that there are several people on this forum who detail engines for a living, so I will let them chime in.

Johnny
 
#104 ·
Depends on what surface you're cleaning
Over in the E39 side of the house, we've covered the fluids to clean the engine bays:
- Engine cleaner: External engine degreaser, engine bay cleaning & engine compartment detailing (1) (2) (3) (4) (5) (6) (7) (8)

See also this M54 very detailed hightly pictorial spark plug DIY, which shares engines with you guys on the 3 side:
- One user's pictorial DIY for replacing the BMW M54 engine spark plugs (1)

Disclaimer:
While all the photos are mine, many of the informative TIS & NGK attachments and diagrams will be recognized from a variety of sources in the Bimmerfest spark-plug archives.

Specifications:

  • 2002 BMW 525i automatic, 95K miles
    • Cylinder numbering is 1,2,3,4,5,6 from front to rear
    • Firing order is 1-5-3-6-2-4
    • Ignition coils are Bosch PN 12131703228, $85.84
  • Spark plugs are NGK BKR6EQUP (aka NGK 3199)
    • B = thread diameter = 14mm
    • K = hex size is 5/8", projected tip (ISO)
    • R = resistor type
    • 6 = heat range (where 2 is hot, and 11 is cold)
    • E = thread reach is 19mm (3/4")
    • Q = quad, i.e., 4-ground electrode (i.e., 4 prongs)
    • U = firing-end construction is semi-surface discharge
    • P = center material is "premium platinum"
  • Torque specifications
    • NGK spark plugs should be dry (i.e., anti-seize is not recommended by NGK)
      • Bentley
        • 25 Nm (18 ft-lb)
      • NGK
        • 22 Lb-ft +- 2 Lb-ft
        • 266 Lb-in +- 27 Lb-in
        • 2.5 to 3.0 kgm
        • Or, 1/2 to 2/3 of a turn after bottoming by hand (for new plugs)
    • Coil bolts (M6X25-ZNNIV SI, PN: 07119905400)
      • Torque = 10 Nm (7.5 ft-lb)
    • Fuel supply plastic engine cover bolts (M6X12-Z1-ZNS PN: 07119900272)
      • Torque = ?
    • Cylinder head plastic engine cover nuts (AM6-8-ZNNIV SI2 PN: 07129904553)
      • Torque = ?
Research:

  • BMW spark plug application charts (1) (2)
  • The best plug to use (1) (2)
  • Deciphering key for spark plug codes(1)
  • Visually reading plugs (1)
  • The truth about torque (1) & gap (1) (2)
  • DIYs for replacing spark plugs (1) (2) (3) (4) (5)
  • Relevant pages from the 5-series BMW E39 Bentley manual:
    • Page 010-15, spark plug socket is 5/8", deep well
    • Page 020-9, Spark plug service interval, M54 engine, 100K miles
    • Pages 020-20 to 020-22, Spark plug R&R procedure
    • Page 113-17, torque specifications
      • Spark plug to cylinder head 25 Nm (18 ft-lb)
      • Ignition coils to cylinder head 10 Nm (7.5 ft-lb)
    • Page 120-9 cylinder numbering & ignition firing order
    • Page 120-11, ignition coil resistance specifications
    • Page 110-11 to 110-16, removal of plastic engine covers
Parts & Tools & Supplies:

  • Six (6) NGK BKR6EQUP (aka NGK 3199) spark plugs
  • 10mm socket
  • 5/8" spark plug socket (or 16mm deep socket)
  • 1/8" flathead screwdriver
  • 1/4" flathead screwdriver
  • 6" socket extension bar
  • 3" socket extension bar for 3/8" socket wrench
  • 1.5" socket extension bar for 3/8" socket wrench
  • Socket handle
  • Universal joint for 3/8" socket wrench
  • Dielectric grease (optional)
  • Anti-seize paste (optional)
Idealized DIY Steps:

  1. Optionally remove the passenger side cabin air filter housing and hose
    • Note I did not remove the cabin air filter nor the hose; the last spark plug would have been easier to remove & replace had I done so.
  2. Remove the oil filler cap temporarily.
  3. Using a 1/8th inch flathead screwdriver, pry off the two plastic passenger side cylinder head cover bolt caps and remove the two 10mm nuts with a 10mm socket wrench; pull the plastic cylinder head engine cover off by hand.
    • Note you may need a u-joint socket bar extension to remove the passenger side nut due to the proximity of the passenger side engine air filter housing hose.
  4. Replace the oil filler cap so that debris does not enter the engine.
  5. Optionally, using a 1/8" flathead screwdriver, pry out the two driver side plastic fuel-injection system engine cover bolt caps and remove the two 10mm bolts using a 10mm socket; pull the plastic fuel-injection system engine cover off by hand.
    • Note now is a good time to loosely replace the bolts removed so you don't lose them.
  6. Notice the long clip on the passenger side which holds the coil wires in place (it's optional to remove that clip to make coil removal slightly easier).
  7. Look around. Notice anything amiss or astray (e.g., different brand coils or mouse-chewed insulation like I had). Notice the two braided silvered ground straps, one at the #1 (fore) and the other at the #6 (aft) cylinder.
  8. Optionally, mark numbers 1 through 6 on the top of the coils with whiteout or other suitable marking.
  9. With a 10mm socket, remove the two bolts holding each coil in place.
  10. With a 1/4 inch flathead screwdriver, lift up on each coil's metal u-shaped harness connector clip and pull the harness connector toward the fender, away from the coil.
  11. By hand, wiggle each coil, and pull upward off the spark plug; the #6 coil will just barely make it out with the passenger side cabin air filter & hoses intact; but it will lift out.
    • Optionally loosely replace the coil bolts so you do not lose them.
    • Optionally test coil resistance as per the E39 Bentley page 120-11 (2002 edition)
  12. With a 5/8" standard spark plug socket & six-inch extension, remove each spark plug taking care to not apply any side forces while twisting it outward.
    • Note a five-inch long deep socket just barely makes it to the top of the engine.
    • Optionally number the plugs as you remove them (place a line in each of the six landings to label the six plugs).
    • If you did not remove the passenger side cabin air filter & hose, then the 6th spark plug will require a short 3" extension bar & a normal 5/8ths inch spark plug socket. Some use a length of fuel system hose, and/or a universal joint.
    • Note the old plugs were labeled NGK R5 BMW, while the new plugs are labeled NGK BKR6EQUP.
  13. Optionally, when replacing the plugs, some people apply a dab of anti-seize on the spark plug threads; however NGK advises against that because of the danger of over torquing.
  14. By hand, place the new plug in a rubber hose or in a rubber-seated spark-plug socket with extension bar sticking out (but no socket wrench yet), and turn the spark plug socket by hand in the counter-clockwise direction a few turns, and then clockwise, to avoid cross-threading.
  15. By hand, continue to turn the spark plug clockwise until you cannot turn it by hand any more. Then connect the torque wrench and torque to the figures listed above (1/2 to 2/3 turn or, about 180 to 240 degrees of rotation after you couldn't turn it by hand).
    • Note the #6 plug may require a deep socket, and/or a 1.5" extension instead of a regular socket and a 3"inch to 6 inch extension if you did not remove the passenger side cabin air filter housing & hoses.
  16. By hand, replace the coils & tighten the two 10mm bolts on each coil with a torque wrench.
  17. By hand, lift up on the u-shaped metal clip on each coil and insert the wire harness connector into each coil; when seated, push down on the u-shaped metal clip to secure the harness connector to each coil.
    • Optionally, apply dielectric grease to the female fitting of each coil harness connector.
  18. By hand, replace the driver side engine cover & 10mm bolts and plastic bolt caps if you had optionally removed it.
  19. By hand, temporarily remove the oil filter cap and replace the passenger side engine cover, tightening the nuts with a 10mm socket; replace the plastic bolt caps & the oil filler cap when done.
  20. Check your work area and start your engine to hear it purr!
STEP BY STEP PICTURES (removed for this post)...
 
#106 · (Edited)
This is useful information posted today...
> E39 (1997 - 2003) > Impending 100k Maintenance (e39 530i) - What should I (or would you) do?
The BMW maintenance schedule at 100k miles is:
- O2 sensors (BMW & Bosch say replace all 4 - pre and post cat. Many get by with the 2 pre cat only)
- spark plugs

If timing is convenient, you may wish to include these items on BMW's schedule:
- engine coolant at 4 year interval
- brake fluid flush on 2 year interval

Everything else in BMW's maintenance schedule is covered in Oil Service, Inspection I & Inspection II at ~15k, 30k & 60k miles respectively. Except a cooling system overhaul which is not on BMW's schedule :rofl:
 

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