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2005 545i slight slip into 2nd gear?

9K views 56 replies 5 participants last post by  chinesestunna 
#1 · (Edited)
Hi everyone!

I just bought a 2005 545i with 77K miles and noticed a strange behavior:
When I start accelerating from a light, under light throttle driving in D, the transmission would change from 1st into 2nd at around 1500-1600RPMs and I feel a slight slip before it fully locks up. If I accelerate harder the issue is less pronounced or outright gone. DS mode will stay in 1st longer and higher RPM so doesn't have the issue as much either. I have done the transmission 30 second reset already and it has lessened the issue a bit
I've done a good amount of searching and reading and it seems Bimmer owners say this is normal behavior? This is my first BMW so I'm just not sure. Should I do a transmission fluid change? Not a fan of BMW's "lifetime fluid" concept...

The previous owner had all records and it seems that all "prone to fail" items on this model has been changed out already such as mechatronic sleeve, valley coolant pipe, brake vacuum booster etc. All maintenance done on schedule as well pre-purchase mechanic (the shop a good friend's been using for 10 years) said everything is good and checks out.

Thanks in advance for your thoughts.
 
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#2 ·
BMW is kind of on the fence themselves about this one. I have heard of dealers saying it's "perfectly normal" and others getting their transmission replaced. Like you, I definitely do not believe in "lifetime fluid", you can get a fluid change kit from esctuning.com that cocntains the fluid you'll need and the filter/fluid pan (it is a single unit on our cars). I did this on my previous 530 and the transmission felt better afterward. Just redo the 30 sec tranny reset after the fluid change and then drive normally for the next 1000 miles (the length of time the tranny takes to adapt to your "style")
 
#3 ·
Thanks! It's only been 80 miles since the reset so I guess I should give it more "learning time" but I'm very wary of all BMW's maintenance schedules such as "lifetime" transmission fluid and 15K motor oil changes (seriously?!).
I'll get the shop to quote me on the fluid change since around 77K it's about due per my experience with other cars. I usually do my own but in this case it seems shop may be able to do it cheaper, as is case with motor oil where 8.5 quarts of Mobil 1 0w40 + filter = $85 and the shop can do synthetic BMW 5w30 for $80 (the hell?!)
 
#4 ·
Yeah, but in this case you might want to go with ECS Tunings kit, the fluid alone from the dealer will run about $250 (~$20/qt), then you need to get the filter. Also, to drain fully takes a loooong time, the tranny drains quick, but it takes hours for the fluid to drain from the torque converter. I would do it myself just to save the shop time for the complete drain since it makes no sense to have a mix of old bad fluid with clean fresh new stuff. Definitely get it done before 100k miles.
 
#6 ·
The difference is the Shell is OEM fluid (even though the OEM fluid is made by ZF, the Shell has identical specs).
 
#9 ·
Stick with OEM fluid, in my opinion. thectsc.com has a good price on a kit with the pan & fluid. I would recommend buying a few pan bolts just in case. I almost stripped the head on a few of mine and was glad I had some new ones to put back in in their place--If I had reused them I'm not sure I could have ever gotten them back out if needed.

Also, reset adaptations after you change the fluid, don't just do the 30 second hold the pedal on the floor "trick". It's never done squat for me.

Have it reset with INPA or one of the other BMW programs after changing the fluid. After I changed mine I didn't do a real reset and thought I was going to need a new transmission after about 20 miles (severe jerking in 5th gear..) Resetting it made a huge difference.

Ultimately I had to replace some solenoids in mine to fix some other issues, but now everything is smooth as can be (187K miles :))
 
#10 ·
Schpenxel, yea I've seen your awesome YouTube vid (and the screw drilling)! Super nice info for everyone

Are you talking about this kit: http://www.thectsc.com/index.php?p=product&id=186&parent=0 It only comes with 6 liters of fluid as opposed to 7 with the redline kit, will that be enough? From your experience most of the "transmission" problems people are experiencing seems to be due to software or solenoids going bad it seems (from what I've read in all your posts), is that about right?
 
#11 ·
I had the exact problem that u described on my 05 545..
I had the tranny updated and the problem was solved ,, it's been close to four years now since I had it done ,,,, the tranny has never surged again,,
Ur getting good advice on a tranny fluid change , I just recently did my third tranny fluid change at 90,000 mi, and she shifts like new ,, I think it's crutial to maintain the tranny fluid clean,, due to the silinoids getting clogged when fluid is not changed frequently.

Hopefully a simple fluid change will do the trick,, but having been thru the same problem an update will defitnately fix the problem,,
 
#16 ·
Thanks for the info and it's a huge relief knowing it won't be a several $K problem. Is there a version of the software I should ask for or just "flash latest build please"?

I agree, but I forgive their foibles in spite of that because the car is so much fun, and so comfortable to drive. I love the car enough to realize that every car has it's quirks, no matter who makes it, and I love the drive in this one enough to deal with them.

That said, it is stupid that BMW doesn't do software updates as part of regular maintenance. The fact that it sometimes requires an 8-10 hr coding of the entire vehicle makes it even worse. Then knowing stealers charge ~$250 to do it? Yeah, it can be infuriating.
Exactly - imagine if Microsoft/Apple made users pay to get security/function patches for their software. Thanks for all the info/help!
 
#13 ·
Unfortunately it has to be the dealer, unless you have an indy shop that has access to BMW software - there are a few of those out there.
 
#14 ·
It really seems kind of silly that BMW doesn't do software upgrades as standard maintenance and makes you pay for it esp. when it's addressing such "out of the box issues"... The car does drive like a dream but little things like this makes it hard to really love the company and brand
 
#15 ·
I agree, but I forgive their foibles in spite of that because the car is so much fun, and so comfortable to drive. I love the car enough to realize that every car has it's quirks, no matter who makes it, and I love the drive in this one enough to deal with them.

That said, it is stupid that BMW doesn't do software updates as part of regular maintenance. The fact that it sometimes requires an 8-10 hr coding of the entire vehicle makes it even worse. Then knowing stealers charge ~$250 to do it? Yeah, it can be infuriating.
 
#19 ·
Thanks all for the help! I'm looking forward to being part of the community and be able to help other members down the rd. I've found some info about doing the software update and BMW coding such as the transmission http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/showthread.php?t=621988 and might try to do this myself. I have a CS/IT background and have done all other types of firmware flashing so this might be a new frontier :D
 
#20 ·
I have been working in IT for 16 years, and the NCS Expert software is readily available. However, the software to update the car is usually not, if you figure it out or find it pass it on - I'd live to know.
 
#26 ·
Found this

I was tired of searching through countless threads and posts with the same Daten files, so I downloaded & uploaded the data files (V41) SEPARATELY for each chasis onto my Rapidshare Account. Links should be good forever as I always renew my contract every 2-3 years. If anyone has any other important files that they would like uploaded and hosted, I will do so, just message me what you need.

STS 2100 Setup = https://rapidshare.com/files/977203062/STS_2100_Setup.zip

V41:
E36 V41 Daten Files = https://rapidshare.com/files/1728124883/E36_V41_Daten_Files.rar
E38 V41 Daten Files = https://rapidshare.com/files/3083436750/E38_V41_Daten_Files.rar
E39 V41 Daten Files = https://rapidshare.com/files/1672164095/E39_V41_Daten_Files.rar
E46 V41 Daten Files = https://rapidshare.com/files/4196534502/E46_V41_Daten_Files.rar
E52 V41 Daten Files = https://rapidshare.com/files/3193868930/E52_V41_Daten_Files.rar
E53 V41 Daten Files = https://rapidshare.com/files/4104321029/E53_V41_Daten_Files.rar
E60 V41 Daten Files = https://rapidshare.com/files/1075756066/E60_V41_Daten_Files.rar
E65 V41 Daten Files = https://rapidshare.com/files/2644713914/E65_V41_Daten_Files.rar
E70 V41 Daten Files = https://rapidshare.com/files/2006344046/E70_V41_Daten_Files.rar
E89 V41 Daten Files = https://rapidshare.com/files/1813178846/E89_V41_Daten_Files.rar
F001 V41 Daten Files = https://rapidshare.com/files/2655435710/F001_V41_Daten_Files.rar
F010 V41 Daten Files = https://rapidshare.com/files/1063657100/F010_V41_Daten_Files.rar
F025 V41 Daten Files = https://rapidshare.com/files/938903099/F025_V41_Daten_Files.rar
K001 V41 Daten Files = https://rapidshare.com/files/864412539/K001_V41_Daten_Files.rar
K1X V41 Daten Files = https://rapidshare.com/files/2941985967/K1X_V41_Daten_Files.rar
K24 V41 Daten Files = https://rapidshare.com/files/1109300396/K24_V41_Daten_Files.rar
R50 V41 Daten Files = https://rapidshare.com/files/2927685248/R50_V41_Daten_Files.rar
R56 V41 Daten Files = https://rapidshare.com/files/3617203493/R56_V41_Daten_Files.rar
RR1 V41 Daten Files = https://rapidshare.com/files/4073048019/RR1_V41_Daten_Files.rar

V42:
E89 V42 Daten Files = https://rapidshare.com/files/498330646/E89_V42_Daten_Files.rar

V43:
E89 V43 Daten Files = https://rapidshare.com/files/1350555933/E89_V43_Daten_Files.rar

Feel free to post these onto other forums you are members of; just give me some recognition :thumbsup:
 
#29 ·
You, sir, just made my day

Very true, keep me updated if you don't mind
Of course, if I do go through with it I will start a dedicated thread and do a write up if I succeed. I found some experienced coders in the Atlanta area and have reached out for their help. I'm thinking about paying them to walk me through the process and learn from hands on work.
 
#33 ·
Some of the tools you don't have a choice. It's either you do it in a VM or you buy a specific laptop (X61's usually) along with a hard drive with the software pre-installed on it. Then you also need the ICOM interface if you go that route. Not cheap.
 
#36 ·
Agreed, that's what I'm thinking as well, the guy was service manager at the dealer across the street from his shop so I'd hope he knows what's up. I'm thinking plan of attack right now is update software and hopefully fixes the issue, the change fluid. He did recommend BMW oe fluid but I'm thinking I'll go with Redline D4 based on other feedback and reviews
 
#38 ·
#39 ·
I've seen a lot of parts for these things that you can buy from the OEM at half the price BMW charges for the same thing.. So it's probably the same pan, with and without the BMW tax.

It looks like the product numbers are the same to me unless I'm missing something. I went with one from thectsc.com (I bought the kit with fluid)
 
#41 · (Edited)
That tis it!

Also, in regards to using redline, I'm not sure how good it is to mix redline and OEM fluid, so that was another reason I stuck with OEM. You can only change about 6 quarts. The other 6+ is in the torque converter and valve body where it can't be drained.

It very well may not matter, but just a thought.
 
#42 ·
That tis it!

Also, in regards to using redline, I'm not sure how good it is to mix redline and OEM fluid, so that was another reason I stuck with OEM. You can only change about 6 quarts. The other 6+ is in the torque converter and valve body where it can't be drained.

It very well may not matter, but just a thought.
Oh, the fluid from the torque converter and valve body does drain, but it takes 4-5 hrs to do so, I know friends that left the car draining overnight and filled ~11 quarts the next morning. When I did my old 530 it was draining for about 5-6 hrs and I added nearly 11 quarts.
 
#43 ·
Roger that, I had that experience with my TL (which has a glass transmission which brought a class action lawsuit and settlement from Honda) which during the first change they recommend at 100K (I did mine at 68K) that you do a 3x3 drain/refill which is basically do the change with 3 quarts, drive around shift through all 5 gears, drain/refill and repeat 2 more times in order to change out all the fluid in 1 session. Would not recommend that at high mileage but mine was fine at the time at 68K.
Good point about mixing fluids, think I'll get the kit from Schpenxel's recommendation, ZF fluid and non-BMW taxed pan
 
#48 ·
Yeah, I ended up changing mine twice in a short period of time, so between the 6 I put in the first time and 8 I put in the second time, I should be close enough to all new fluid to be good for a while. You've got plenty.
 
#49 ·
this post reminds me of something that i did to a 400 turbo trans on an old chevy truck I used to own when i had a shift kit installed. What i did was drilled and tapped the converter and put a threaded plug ...and the actuall fluid pushed all the shavings out which was good.. but was nice is that getting all the fluid out of the tranny was quick. it worked really well... Im not suggesting it to any one,, but thought id share that... Ive pondered about doen that, but to scared... to even think about doen it to my car...
 
#54 ·
Yes, and no. It is simply there to get to the bolts, but you cannot really get a good look at the torque converter.

The torque converter does not drain, it is nearly impossible. The torque converter sits on the input shaft and the only way oil gets in and out is via the oil pump. When the car is off, the oil does not drain back into the pan, it stays in the torque converter. The only way the torque converter will drain is if you take it out and hold it upside down, or if you tap a hole into it for the fludi to drain.
 
#56 ·
I did mine at 70k miles on my old 530, same day I did the tranny fluid change

How many quarts did it take ?
Took less than 1.5 qts, just drain then fill until it comes out the upper plug (there's 2 holes in the diff, the lower drain plug and the upper fill plug)
 
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