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Do-It-Yourself H.Q.
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  #26  
Old 04-07-2016, 05:39 PM
meph137 meph137 is offline
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Mein Auto: BMW 320i 2012
Quote:
Originally Posted by everywill View Post
My day job is social science researcher. So probably not the best source for this type of enquiry.

However, if I were you, I'll splice the thickest section and solder ground wire there. To make the joint water and weather proof, you can apply some Plastidip liquid electric tape; then hot shrink tube; then 3M scotch electric tape. Make sure to use resin core solder.
Hah, well you've certainly told me things I didn't know, i.e. the resin/rosin solder, and the liquid tape - very nice! I've bought some performix liquid electrical tape - I preferred the sound of painting vs spraying (like plastidip), already have some heat shrink tube and some 3m tape, so I'm good there.

When you tap in to a wire do you just strip off the jacket and wrap the wires together? As mentioned, new to all this so learning pretty much everything seems this youtube video has a decent technique:



Prior to watching that, I'd have assumed you would cut the wire entirely, strip insulation, wrap together and solder, as opposed to simply stripping a small amount of insulation from the wire to be tapped.
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  #27  
Old 04-07-2016, 06:24 PM
everywill everywill is offline
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Join Date: Jul 2015
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Mein Auto: F30
I prefer solder wires together rather than simply twist whenever possible. As a result, I may sometimes skip the hot shrink tube (just strip insulation in the middle so can't slide tube in) depending on my mood. But as long as you did it right and carefully, I really don't think it matters whether cut or not.

Using proper soldering method will make the joint both mechanically and electrically sound. After all, the constant vibration and other environmental hazards require more solid connection to maintain longevity. I personally not feel that confident to solely rely on friction between metal cores.

As I said, I'm not a professional. I choose techniques based on common sense of basic physics. So you should consult real pros if seriously in doubt. Although the process we adopted are usually be seen as overkill in their eyes. I hope you understand that I can't take responsibilities for any potential damage if follow my suggestions. I'm really afraid I may say something stupid.

Last edited by everywill; 04-07-2016 at 06:31 PM.
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  #28  
Old 04-08-2016, 12:11 AM
meph137 meph137 is offline
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Location: Nottingham
 
Join Date: Feb 2016
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Mein Auto: BMW 320i 2012
Quote:
Originally Posted by everywill View Post
I prefer solder wires together rather than simply twist whenever possible. As a result, I may sometimes skip the hot shrink tube (just strip insulation in the middle so can't slide tube in) depending on my mood. But as long as you did it right and carefully, I really don't think it matters whether cut or not.

Using proper soldering method will make the joint both mechanically and electrically sound. After all, the constant vibration and other environmental hazards require more solid connection to maintain longevity. I personally not feel that confident to solely rely on friction between metal cores.

As I said, I'm not a professional. I choose techniques based on common sense of basic physics. So you should consult real pros if seriously in doubt. Although the process we adopted are usually be seen as overkill in their eyes. I hope you understand that I can't take responsibilities for any potential damage if follow my suggestions. I'm really afraid I may say something stupid.
Oh no I wouldn't worry about giving the wrong advice, I always research everything - it's just handy to be given pointers because it gives a starting point you'll be happy to know that everything you've said seems to be backed up by several people on YouTube, so it MUST be right!

I'd agree that solder seems more secure, but then it seems like a lot of people prefer a crimp in the first instance. Hard to know!
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  #29  
Old 04-08-2016, 06:13 AM
meph137 meph137 is offline
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Got the pins from Sytner Nottingham today, I'll be checking later on that they fit correctly, but they look good, and at 37p each they're not too bad!

They are part number 61131393724.
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  #30  
Old 04-08-2016, 06:39 AM
everywill everywill is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by meph137 View Post
Got the pins from Sytner Nottingham today, I'll be checking later on that they fit correctly, but they look good, and at 37p each they're not too bad!
They are part number 61131393724.
Not bad at all! Don't know why my 61131393724 comes with tail .

Good start mate!



SM-G935F Tapatalk
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  #31  
Old 04-08-2016, 07:38 AM
meph137 meph137 is offline
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Location: Nottingham
 
Join Date: Feb 2016
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Mein Auto: BMW 320i 2012
Quote:
Originally Posted by everywill View Post
Not bad at all! Don't know why my 61131393724 comes with tail .

Good start mate!



SM-G935F Tapatalk
That's weird, did you get yours from the dealer?

Even cheaper from Farnell! 12p for the socket and 8p for the pin!

http://uk.farnell.com/te-connectivit...nap/dp/1330230
http://uk.farnell.com/te-connectivit...-in/dp/1330227

I think they're correct anyway, I'll order some to confirm.
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  #32  
Old 04-10-2016, 01:00 PM
meph137 meph137 is offline
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I've decided to route the cable from the fusebox, rather than from the X28*1B so had a bit of a dig around today at how to do that - seems fairly simple actually, there is a hole in the firewall which all the other cables are routed through, which I can use, and as I'll be using a weatherproof splice I should be fine.

I also removed the kick panel to take a look at the FEM, looks like its tight to get to!

Quote:
Originally Posted by everywill View Post
A73 PIN2X5 PIN26A173*3B PIN49

A73 PIN5X5 PIN12A173*4B PIN27

A73 PIN6X5 PIN14Z7 Fuse 22
One thing I'm confused about - my X5 pin 26 is already populated, and it goes to pin 2 on the A73, and as this is for the turn indicator (which obviously already works!) so it would seem like i don't need to make this connection, did you definitely need to do this?

The LIN (X5 pin 12) and power (X5 pin 14) definitely seem needed though.

Quote:
Originally Posted by everywill View Post
On the body side, you will need to remove the FEM for access
Just had a look at how to remove the FEM, looks like I have to unplug everything from it, did you do that? Seems potentially a bit of a bugger!
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  #33  
Old 04-25-2016, 12:58 PM
everywill everywill is offline
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For the indicator wire, I had the exact confusion at planning stage. But now I can't remember if I did it or not. If it's already there, I don't think you have to.

The FEM removal is quite easy actually. The only tricky part is remove the thick red electric cable. It's very stiff and be careful not to break the locking mechanism. The whole module is hang on a hook and fixed by just one screw in the middle. So don't worry, you can nail it.
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  #34  
Old 04-30-2016, 09:11 AM
meph137 meph137 is offline
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Location: Nottingham
 
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Mein Auto: BMW 320i 2012
Right then, just had a go at this today and hit a snag - the sockets/pins I have are correct for the X5, but not the FEM - they don't fit. See the FEM ones below:



Everywil - what pigtails did you use for the additional FEM pins? Do you have a part number?

Cheers!
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  #35  
Old 05-30-2016, 09:33 AM
astroinfinity astroinfinity is offline
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Mein Auto: BMW 430i Gran Coupe
Do these retrofitted mirrors have working auto-dimming function?

I understand that power folding and auto-dimming mirrors come with the same option. I have standard mirrors in F36. I inquired with my dealer if it was possible to add this to my car and he denied, claiming it is not possible since some kind of module is missing. I have auto-dimming rear view mirror (inside), I might add.

Last edited by astroinfinity; 05-30-2016 at 10:18 AM.
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  #36  
Old 07-09-2016, 04:37 PM
Dj Alain Dj Alain is offline
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Location: Belgium
 
Join Date: Jul 2016
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Mein Auto: F36 Gran Coupé
I did it my way …..

I shared this, maybe to help somebody who also trying the retrofit ….

I had the standard mirrors (6pin) , and auto dimming mirror (inside)
My car - F36 Gran Coupe M Pack

I asked help to meph137, becouse he was already done some awesome job :thumb up:

He answered right away my questions, and give me some extra tips….

This morning i started , because the €€€ mirrors HAS TO WORK

FYI : i bought 2 brand new mirrors full option from someone that put M4 mirrors on his brand new 435D :thumb up:
They are Folding - dimming - Lane warning - top view camera (the 2 last i will not retrofit)

Also buy a new switch box driver side with the (needed) extra button

So to the point, after hard work & hard thinking … this is my email to meph137…
Maybe it helps for somebody



Hi Meph,

YES !! Both mirrors are working.
I've been working all aftenoon

So I told you that the driver site was plug & play , just install the 5 pin mirror (with the original 6 pin connector) , get a new driver switch box , coding (a friend) and Done… everything fine, folding - dimming - folding by key, folding when driving + 40 km…. like original

Passenger side, totally no reaction… (just the turn led)

How did a get to a solution …. Well, i was thinking the passenger mirror was dead, so I connect this mirror on the driver side for testing… it was ok and not dead.
I noticed for adjustment of the mirror i had to put the button on the passenger side …. so it recognized a passenger mirror, even it was connect on the driver side

This morning i've checked my door connector (passenger), and have not pin 12 (LIN) or pin 14, so had to wire these.. I've looked at the FEM, and NO WAY i start to mess with this… To tight , to many cables… forget it

So i came with an idea

The mirror has 5 pin's
3 on top - 2 down
so i was sure that the 2 down where Ground & Turn Led
The 3 on top must be LIN - Power and Ground ( but not sure who is who )

So i did some wiring (quit a work, but worth it) first tested it… before disassemble everything
I have connect 3 cables , pin 1-2-3 (top) on driver site to the Passenger side , and connect it the same way… I use the hole for coax (normally) to pass the cables in the door)

And now i have 2 working mirrors…. both folding, dimming, left adjusment and right adjustment.
Just Curb not working, but that's a coding (i think) I have no electrical seats with memory… I try it later…

I have used 0,75 cable…

Me Happy

Now i go to sleep, it's 1 AM here in Belgium, and tomorrow just need to put my door panels back on

Greetings from Belgium
Cheers,
Alain
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  #37  
Old 07-10-2016, 12:28 PM
Dj Alain Dj Alain is offline
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Location: Belgium
 
Join Date: Jul 2016
Posts: 3
Mein Auto: F36 Gran Coupé
coding would have done the trick for the automatic curb mirror function

We have done the coding :thumb up:

ASP_MEMORY_VERBAUT - Prerequisite for the below, determines if mirror memory exists - Requires Electric NO seats
ASP_BORDSTEINAUTOMATIK - determines if function is enabled or not - aktiv
ASP_BORDSTEINAUTOMATIK_DELTA - sets the angle of the tilt.

And Yes !! Full functionalitie :thumb up:

This make my weekend

Cheers
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  #38  
Old 11-24-2016, 09:33 AM
Tzul Tzul is offline
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Location: london, UK
 
Join Date: Nov 2016
Posts: 1
Mein Auto: F30
auto folding mirrors

Quote:
Originally Posted by everywill View Post
Retrofitted power folding mirror to my 2012 F30 in last Nov. Spent approx 3 hours. Since I did the work alone, no photos have been taken.



The fitting is very straight forward, removing door cards then loosen 3 torx screws holding mirror. Search in Youtube for door card removal. Bavsound has a detailed video.



Following is a wiring note I made for my work.



Driver side is basically P&P as long as you have the correct lifter switch with folding button.



For passenger side, there are 3 connections to be made.



A73 PIN2X5 PIN26A173*3B PIN49

A73 PIN5X5 PIN12A173*4B PIN27

A73 PIN6X5 PIN14Z7 Fuse 22



A73 is the plug to the mirror base.
Attachment 547369

X15 is the socket on passenger side door frame, you need to unplug it first by lifting the plastic lock upward. On the door side, slip the socket upward expose the back of contact housing, feed the three wires through rubber goment and insert bushing contacts into the housing. On the body side, you will need to remove the FEM for access.
Attachment 547370


A173 is the FEM.


Z7 is the front fuse box in engine compartment. This connection is shared with driver side PIN14.
Attachment 547371


Hello I have a F30 14 plate and only has auto lumber support which is electric. I have the auto folding switch, the mirrors, door looms and FEM...are you able to fit them for me Everywill?

im based in London...I will of course pay for your time...thanks
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  #39  
Old 12-13-2016, 10:54 PM
routeburner's Avatar
routeburner routeburner is offline
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Location: Chicago, Illinois, USA
 
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Posts: 112
Mein Auto: 2013-X5
Great info.
__________________
"Work is for people who don't Golf".
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  #40  
Old 03-23-2017, 10:21 AM
ivannw ivannw is offline
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Location: Brazil
 
Join Date: Oct 2014
Posts: 21
Mein Auto: BMW 316i
Did you finish the PDF? please send it to me. I had my mirrors stolen 3 weeks ago and I need help to install the passenger mirror. only turn light works. My old mirror had 6 wires and the new has 5.


Quote:
Originally Posted by meph137 View Post
Ah yes I'm still on it! Taking my precious time though, I go a bit over the top and research things I perhaps don't need to

I can't find any pre-made looms, so I've going to alter my own. I was going to use the ones I bought from everywill but I figured that, for the driver side at least, I only need to alter two wires (I think!), and as I have ambient lighting (and everywills looms don't) it seems to make more sense to change just two wires, as opposed to having to wire at least 6 wires for the various ambient lighting (interior, puddle, entry).

Anyway, I made the following driver loom diagram - this is the standard loom as you probably have (note, it has no ambient lighting or comfort access or anything like that):



And this is the loom you need for power folding mirrors, along with change notes on it:



I'll be doing the passenger side soon, and will then look in to the extra FEM wiring everywill mentioned, I'm currently just waiting on some MQS pins, some .75mm2 wiring, and an open barrel crimp tool so I can make the two extra wiring runs in the driver loom.

I'll share everything when I know it all, or as and when anyone asks

Oh if you need another mirror for any reason, for some reason I bought three

EDIT - sorry the second image resolution is crappy. I'll upload PDFs soon
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  #41  
Old 03-31-2017, 04:05 AM
KingpinRCR KingpinRCR is offline
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Location: Belgium
 
Join Date: Mar 2017
Posts: 1
Mein Auto: F30 320d ed
According to meph137's diagram, it seems like driver's side is always plug and play. The connection between the switch and the mirror uses the same pins but have a different function. Since it's only 12v I think we can use the same wires. (They should be able to handle the voltage without burning through)
But the passenger's side isn't very clear to me. Does anyone have a diagram for that?
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  #42  
Old 06-17-2017, 07:02 PM
yoodog yoodog is offline
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Location: Russia
 
Join Date: Feb 2015
Posts: 18
Mein Auto: F20 120d
Hi! I also have Bmw F36! I'm looking for exactly those, full option mirrors as I'm about to retrofit all of those options soon. But I can not find any Shadow line auto dim, top view and warning triangle mirrors on sale... Wanna switch for your exact options mirrors?






Quote:
Originally Posted by Dj Alain View Post
I shared this, maybe to help somebody who also trying the retrofit ….

I had the standard mirrors (6pin) , and auto dimming mirror (inside)
My car - F36 Gran Coupe M Pack

I asked help to meph137, becouse he was already done some awesome job :thumb up:

He answered right away my questions, and give me some extra tips….

This morning i started , because the €€€ mirrors HAS TO WORK

FYI : i bought 2 brand new mirrors full option from someone that put M4 mirrors on his brand new 435D :thumb up:
They are Folding - dimming - Lane warning - top view camera (the 2 last i will not retrofit)

Also buy a new switch box driver side with the (needed) extra button

So to the point, after hard work & hard thinking … this is my email to meph137…
Maybe it helps for somebody



Hi Meph,

YES !! Both mirrors are working.
I've been working all aftenoon

So I told you that the driver site was plug & play , just install the 5 pin mirror (with the original 6 pin connector) , get a new driver switch box , coding (a friend) and Done… everything fine, folding - dimming - folding by key, folding when driving + 40 km…. like original

Passenger side, totally no reaction… (just the turn led)

How did a get to a solution …. Well, i was thinking the passenger mirror was dead, so I connect this mirror on the driver side for testing… it was ok and not dead.
I noticed for adjustment of the mirror i had to put the button on the passenger side …. so it recognized a passenger mirror, even it was connect on the driver side

This morning i've checked my door connector (passenger), and have not pin 12 (LIN) or pin 14, so had to wire these.. I've looked at the FEM, and NO WAY i start to mess with this… To tight , to many cables… forget it

So i came with an idea

The mirror has 5 pin's
3 on top - 2 down
so i was sure that the 2 down where Ground & Turn Led
The 3 on top must be LIN - Power and Ground ( but not sure who is who )

So i did some wiring (quit a work, but worth it) first tested it… before disassemble everything
I have connect 3 cables , pin 1-2-3 (top) on driver site to the Passenger side , and connect it the same way… I use the hole for coax (normally) to pass the cables in the door)

And now i have 2 working mirrors…. both folding, dimming, left adjusment and right adjustment.
Just Curb not working, but that's a coding (i think) I have no electrical seats with memory… I try it later…

I have used 0,75 cable…

Me Happy

Now i go to sleep, it's 1 AM here in Belgium, and tomorrow just need to put my door panels back on

Greetings from Belgium
Cheers,
Alain
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