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E46 (1999 - 2006)
The fourth generation 3 Series (E46 chassis) was introduced in 1999 and set the standard for engineering and performance during it's years of production including being named to Car & Driver's 10 best list every one of those years! ! -- View the E46 Wiki

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  #1  
Old 06-02-2017, 05:15 PM
2strokezuke 2strokezuke is offline
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E46 Reving up and down, totally stumped HELP

Ok,
I did a CCV (w/hoses) replacement on my BMW which was running good (aside from a massive vacuum leak which i found and fixed during the job)

When i got all back together it had this weird reving problem where it idles fine at start up, but then revs up/down continuously as soon as i put a little pressure on the throttle.


I sprayed brake cleaner around the all contact points, and moved and jiggle all the hoses around try find a vacuum leak but I can't find anything obvious.

Then I totally took everything apart again trying to find something that wasn't plugged or a hose that fell off.


I cleaned off the intake manifold contact surface with acetone and a Brillo-Pad. freshened up the intake gaskets with a soap and water scrub. Replaced the throttle body gasket.

Tightened the shiznet out of the intake manifold and throttle body mounting screws.


...Still the same problem.


Its throwing bad ICV codes but something about this seems like the engine management system is out of wack where the throttle position is bad or the DME is busted or something like that.

The ICV and vacuum leek problems i've had in the past always caused just rough, crappy idle (not like this)



Heres a video:
_a_
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  #2  
Old 06-02-2017, 08:02 PM
Y2K_Bimmer Y2K_Bimmer is offline
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Is the throttle physically returning to it's base? The mechanism could be sticking just a bit as it travels back to idle:
http://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/show...diagId=13_0641

Last edited by Y2K_Bimmer; 06-02-2017 at 08:11 PM.
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  #3  
Old 06-02-2017, 09:17 PM
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What year is your car ? Cable-operated throttle, or DBW ?
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  #4  
Old 06-03-2017, 04:39 AM
2strokezuke 2strokezuke is offline
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2002 325xi

DBW throttle

Last edited by 2strokezuke; 06-03-2017 at 04:40 AM.
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  #5  
Old 06-03-2017, 01:36 PM
2strokezuke 2strokezuke is offline
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update








My ICV is humming pretty loud when the key is in position 2. Is that normal?
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  #6  
Old 06-03-2017, 09:24 PM
Delineation Delineation is offline
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Codes?


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  #7  
Old 06-04-2017, 07:20 AM
2strokezuke 2strokezuke is offline
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P1503, P1507.

I order a new ICV today, but i am suspicious of that actually being the problem.


Though the one I have is reading 6ohms, 6ohms and 13ohms. which is much lower than what the internet says its supposed to be.

Last edited by 2strokezuke; 06-04-2017 at 07:23 AM.
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  #8  
Old 06-08-2017, 05:05 PM
2strokezuke 2strokezuke is offline
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The new ICV changed nothing.

I noticed I had the oil tempature sensor connector and the EVAP purge valve connector swapped.



I connected them correctly and it doesn't rev up/down any more but just runs like sh**t in general.

The idles is super rough, it bogs and misfires... Also now my gas gauge doesn't work right.



I order a new EVAP purge valve but if that is not it I have no idea, Maybe the DME is busted?
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  #9  
Old 06-09-2017, 07:30 AM
kirmanj kirmanj is offline
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Have u tried checking the lower and upper intake boots and the mass air flow sensor?

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  #10  
Old 06-09-2017, 08:57 AM
2strokezuke 2strokezuke is offline
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Both intake boots are new.

Disconnecting the MAF causes it to run way worse... So it is still doing something
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  #11  
Old 06-09-2017, 10:50 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 2strokezuke View Post
Both intake boots are new.

Disconnecting the MAF causes it to run way worse... So it is still doing something
Pull the plugs out and check their condition. Keep them in order so you know which one came out of which cylinder.
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  #12  
Old 06-09-2017, 04:42 PM
2strokezuke 2strokezuke is offline
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Somehow the spark plug port on cylinder 6 got filled up with water. The car has been under a tarp the whole time Ive been working on it.

The coil could have been shorting out to the ground plane at the top through the water which would screw up all the other sparks as well.

I'll replace the coil and the plug tomorrow and see what happens.


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  #13  
Old 06-10-2017, 12:51 PM
2strokezuke 2strokezuke is offline
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All the plugs look fine, all the coils are good.

The EVAP purge valve was replace.

Back to the same problem of reving up and down.


Last edited by 2strokezuke; 06-10-2017 at 01:03 PM.
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  #14  
Old 06-11-2017, 04:23 PM
2strokezuke 2strokezuke is offline
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This may have been causing the problem. I had to force the CCV in there with a sand hammer and grease. Stupid disign.

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  #15  
Old 06-11-2017, 05:14 PM
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Originally Posted by 2strokezuke View Post
I had to force the CCV in there with a sand hammer and grease. Stupid design.

110% Correctomundo ! Which is why many savvy folks replace it with a catch can setup....
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  #16  
Old 06-17-2017, 12:59 PM
2strokezuke 2strokezuke is offline
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So I got it all together and now it will not spark.

I check the spark plugs and no voltage is being sent.
There is still voltage on the coil.

All the fuses are fine.

Whats happening? Camshift position sensor? I was getting error codes for that before this.

Last edited by 2strokezuke; 06-17-2017 at 01:12 PM.
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  #17  
Old 06-17-2017, 04:58 PM
2strokezuke 2strokezuke is offline
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One of the fuses in the Relay box under the hood was blown. Replaced it and it started right up. Runs great so far.


As for the Cam shaft sensors i order some new ones.

I was reading ~.7v on volts on the signal wire (car not not running)... According to the internet the sensor is a 5v pull up configuration, e.i. I should see 5v output on the signal when nothing is happening.

So the sensor is probably just barely working at this point.
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  #18  
Old 06-18-2017, 08:32 AM
Bimtec Bimtec is offline
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Recently I had my CCV sensor light turn on, the car idles fine and runs great, my mechanic cleared the code and about one week later the battery drained and the light ccame on again. I bought the ccv hoses and assemble recommended by the mechanic. My car has only118,000 miles and am getting concerned about replacing the CCV after hearing your story.
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  #19  
Old 06-18-2017, 10:13 AM
2strokezuke 2strokezuke is offline
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The reason mine was so hard is because I installed the cold weather one with insulation causing the Throttle body to not sit correctly which caused a massive vacuum leak that I could not find.

Another thing that made it hard was the debris and crap sitting around the intake manifold which fell directly into the intake ports as soon as i moved the manifold. It took a few hours to clean all that crap.

And all the hoses and wires have to be routed a certain way when putting everything back together otherwise they will be pulling on each other, especially the ones routed behind the intake manifold next to the firewall.



I sort of broke even when comes to saving the $650 to repair it vs the frustration of doing to myself. Though It I could probably do the job in 3 hours if i had to do it again.
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  #20  
Old 06-18-2017, 10:57 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 2strokezuke View Post
The reason mine was so hard is because I installed the cold weather one with insulation causing the Throttle body to not sit correctly which caused a massive vacuum leak that I could not find.

Another thing that made it hard was the debris and crap sitting around the intake manifold which fell directly into the intake ports as soon as i moved the manifold. It took a few hours to clean all that crap.

And all the hoses and wires have to be routed a certain way when putting everything back together otherwise they will be pulling on each other, especially the ones routed behind the intake manifold next to the firewall.



I sort of broke even when comes to saving the $650 to repair it vs the frustration of doing to myself. Though It I could probably do the job in 3 hours if i had to do it again.
99% of people don`t remove the intake manifold when doing the CVV job....
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  #21  
Old 06-18-2017, 11:16 AM
Bimtec Bimtec is offline
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Thanks for your reply, I was getting concerned about changing the part, thanks for the tidbits of install, the the mechanic and I will route it the same, I bought the genuine BMW part instead of the cheaper china made one with lifetime guarantee. My other concern was that the repair clears the code light, and not sure after market part would clear it, either way it's a tough three hour job. Thanks I will let you know next week how it goes after the change, it was good you resolved your delema. It's not cheap to work on these cars when something goes wrong. Take care!
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  #22  
Old 06-18-2017, 01:15 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bimtec View Post
Thanks for your reply, I was getting concerned about changing the part, thanks for the tidbits of install, the the mechanic and I will route it the same, I bought the genuine BMW part instead of the cheaper china made one with lifetime guarantee. My other concern was that the repair clears the code light, and not sure after market part would clear it, either way it's a tough three hour job. Thanks I will let you know next week how it goes after the change, it was good you resolved your delema. It's not cheap to work on these cars when something goes wrong. Take care!
Just be aware that after you make a repair, you need to complete a certain number of "driving cycles" (usually 3 or more trips of at least 15 miles each) before the codes go away for good.
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  #23  
Old 06-18-2017, 04:46 PM
Bimtec Bimtec is offline
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Oh really, did not know this, does the car clear the codes after cycles or do I have to go clear them every time if they return during a cycle? Not sure how this will play out.
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