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Transfer Case Actuator potential free fix!

790K views 1K replies 251 participants last post by  jayram1408 
#1 ·
A couple weeks ago, I got the "terrible triad" of lights (ABS, 4x4, and Brake). Recently, I got the clicking noise after turning the car off and was able to determine that it was coming from a transfer case. Using several posts from here, especially this one:

http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/showpost.php?p=4473836&postcount=19

I bought a new transfer case actuator and installed it. Problem solved, no lights, no clicking, all better. It is not a cheap part at 720 bucks from getbmwparts.com, and 900 bucks elsewhere, so the engineer in me wanted to figure out why they were failing.

Which brings me to the purpose of this post. I disected the old actuator to find out what the heck is going on inside it. I appologize for the huge pictures, but some sort of resolution was needed to describe what I was trying to say.

What the actuator looks like when off the car:


And broken down into the pieces: Bottom right is the motor, top right is the brush assembly, top left is a guard of some sort that pops off (albeit bent and unusable once you have it off) and the bottom left is the gear assembly (we'll focus on this one)


After I popped off the oil guard piece, here is what the inside looked like, a ton of shavings and grease.


and closer:


So you can see the motor turns a worm gear which is mated to a black gear (which is made of plastic :thumbdwn:!!!) Eventually, this gear wears down like crazy and doesnt have any teeth left to grip the worm gear. This is what causes the slipping, and the error lights, and especially the clicking sound.

In this photo, you can see the change from good gear area to the bad area. The good area is on the left, and as you follow the black gear around to the right, you can see where it has been worn down from sitting all the time.




So, I went farther. I took off the black gear to see what it looked like:
Good side (what it should look like everywhere):


Bad side (Cause of the problem)


POTENTIAL SOLUTION:

So now we know what the cause is, how can we fix it? It has been (from my research) that everyone just buys a new actuator. Yes, it fixes the problem, I can vouch for that, but I don't know how many other people looked into what CAUSED the problem.

I bet you could unbolt the motor from the gear housing assembly (it is held on by 4 torx bolts that come off quite easily compared to trying to remove the actuator from the car).
Mark a location of the current position on the white plastic gear you can see in the first photo. After the motor is unbolted and removed (ONLY THE MOTOR, DONT DESTROY YOUR ACTUATOR AND TAKE THE WHOLE THING APART!!!!), turn the white plastic gear 180 degrees from its current location. This takes the bad part of the gear and puts it where it will not get used, which means that a good part is now in contact with the worm gear.

Re-insert the motor and bolt back together. This should give you, say another 65k miles (when mine failed) or so before you likely have to replace the actuator. Re-install on your transfer case, and voila! you should be good to go with only an hour or so of your time wasted instead of time and 900 bucks.

I haven't tried this, so try it at your own risk, but with pulling everything apart, it seems like a pretty safe bet, but obviously I can't be held responsible if something does go wrong.

Hope perhaps it can save someone almost a thousand dollars. I believe my logic is sound, but I look forward to your comments!
 
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#273 ·
Actually I contacted that source and the gear seems to fit only X3 not the 3 series, that's what they said. I am driving with this problem for the past 2 weeks and the noise seemed to have accentuated with the time. Not sure how much damage I can do by driving like this. I am willing to try the rotation but I see the motor cost under 400 and maybe this is the way to go.
Any advice you can pass on with regards to driving like this.
Thanks
 
#274 ·
Actually I contacted that source and the gear seems to fit only X3 not the 3 series, that's what they said...
Hmm. Interesting. I guess the transfer case is different between the X3/X5 and the 328xi...?

... I am driving with this problem for the past 2 weeks and the noise seemed to have accentuated with the time. Not sure how much damage I can do by driving like this. I am willing to try the rotation but I see the motor cost under 400 and maybe this is the way to go.
Any advice you can pass on with regards to driving like this.
Thanks
Well, assuming the same thing is happening inside your transfer case (and it sounds like it might be), the gear (see photos in first post) will eventually get worn out, and the transfer case will not be able to transfer torque between the front and rear axles. I personally wouldn't let it go long, but about all you're really wearing out is the gear. Plus you get to look at the annoying lights in your dashboard until it's fixed. And, with a Canadian winter rapidly approaching, you might want to ask yourself if you really want to be without AWD traction capability...?

If the actuator for the 328xi is CAD$400, that might just be the best solution; the available replacement gear would have been US$125, and if you had a qualified mechanic install it for you, you'd probably spend about $400 or more (between parts and labor) when all was said and done. Just my take on it.
 
#275 ·
My mechanic removed the motor and the black plastic gear did not look bad although we could not see well through the grease. In fact the part that looked damaged was the thread on the motor (red arrow on picture). That was not expected since it is metal. We did the 180 rotation but nothing changed. I ordered the motor and hope that will fix it.
 

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#498 · (Edited)
Great job! I have probably the same problem in my 528xi. The plastic beats the metal unreal...
I am asking is this a BMW or f...ing KIA??
And new actuator motor is $600!!
I am so disappointed on this car...

P.S. Is there any chance to replace only the damaged part inside the motor?
 
#276 · (Edited)
The wife's X3 '07 3si threw a gear yesterday @ 90K miles. Fortunately I acquired this one with CPO coverage so it was a fifty dollar repair (well I paid for CPO coverage and never have had need of it till now - so the repair was paid for). However, I was prepared to crawl under the carriage and fix it given the cold reception I received from the BMW service center (gee you are almost of coverage) and later how did you know it was that? The answer was valued contributions from this community; its trials and tribulations and ingenuity! Thank you
 
#277 ·
Interesting enough, I just changed the actuator for my 2007 328xi and the lights and noise dissapeared. Well, the lights on the dashboard had to be reset I guess everyone had to do that. I took the old motor apart just to see that platic gear everyone is talking about. The gear was not looking used and it looks metal to me. I still don't know what was wrong, the only weird thing is the curve shape of that gear on the actuator, not sure how a new one looks like. I am glad I got the car fixed, I hope it is permanent.
Any idea what could have been wrong by looking at these (pretty bad) pictures?
Thanks
 

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#278 ·
Clicking but No Lights

I took my wifes car into an Independent dealer, they do minor work on BMW's. There is a clicking noise with every revolution, I thought that it might have something to do with a wheel / brake??

The meachanic said that when on the rack and with the drive shaft turning, it sounded like it was coming from the transfer case. Suggested I take it to BMW$$ dealer. There are no lights on the dash though. Well, I take that back, TPS needs cleaning, so check engine light is on. I'm curious if the clicking can be the gear if there are no 4wd lights, ABS lights on?? I dont mind changing it if I need to, but not sure. Also, do I need to remove the heat shield to get to it? Thank you very much!!
 
#280 ·
'07 530xi here - just got the triad of lights yesterday and heard the clicking noise when I got home. Will try to get underneath and see what it's going to take to possibly do the DIY fix.

One quick question - did anyone just attempt to take the motor off without taking off the entire unit and rotating the gear with their finger?
 
#281 ·
I have found the answer to the Transfer Case problem

:thumbdwn::thumbdwn:I sold it at auction and bought a Jeep Grand Cherokee that my wife loves.
We actually found a nice 2008 BMW X3, and were going to buy it,but it has really bad problems with the N2 engine knocking. Sounds like, as bad as I hate to, I done with BMW, they have bad engineers.
:thumbdwn:
 
#282 · (Edited)
:thumbdwn::thumbdwn:I sold it at auction and bought a Jeep Grand Cherokee that my wife loves.
We actually found a nice 2008 BMW X3, and were going to buy it,but it has really bad problems with the N2 engine knocking. Sounds like, as bad as I hate to, I done with BMW, they have bad engineers.
:thumbdwn:
Hopefully the Jeep GC are better now. Worst vehicle I ever had. Steering damper failed 3x - talk about a vibrating steering wheel! Broke engine mounts twice, second time trashed transmission. Repaired under extended warranty and traded for a Toyota 4Runner. Good luck! I know they have been around and popular for a long time now.

Which motor did you get?
 
#283 · (Edited)
Hi guys, I'm new here but have the same problems as posted above!!! Removed the actuator,stripped it etc....
If you leave the actuator out but plug it in and get someone to start the car,the gear turns 180 degs,stops for a sec, then turns a further 180 deg.
I'm still busy investigating my problem as the gear was a little worn but not stripped yet.I turned it 180 deg anyway because it does seem to only be the one portion of the gear thats slightly damaged/worn.
With my problem it seems like I have a missfire in 1st,2nd & 3rd gear, but all is fine in 4th,5th and 6th gears!!!!
Twice now I've had the 3 lights come on though,so thought it must be the actuator, but apparently not the worn gear problem!!!
Just watched the vidio on U tube about how the system works. It seems that it does not turn 360 deg's. Only when the actuator is out it is trying to sense the relative resistances as the clutches engage etc. When the unit is in the car it only moves to a certain point where it feels the clutches are fully engaged, then records it to the ECU. This happens every time you start the vehicle.
Anyone have any other idea's what my problem might be, would be greatly apreciated.
Many thanks
Billy
 
#284 ·
Just an update on the X drive system. Today I pulled the plug off the actuator motor and drove 1600 km. The 4x4 light came on but the traction control (rear wheels only) and ABS still worked, All noises and 'jerking' has stopped. I realise that I now only have rear wheel drive but it is a quick fix if you have to use your vehicle
Billy
 
#285 ·
Ps. I have also found out, the little black gear in the actuator motor does not turn 360 deg, only that little bit thats worn out!!!!! So turning it 180 deg does work like new. I found this out by covering the gear in 'thickish' grease, installing it, activating it (bolted on) , then removing and checking it, Hope this helps a bit.
 
#286 ·
I had the "terrible triad" of lights last week, for a few minutes. Switched the SUV off, and when switched on again only the 4x4 light came on. Now even that is gone. But in first gear there is a slight jerk, which goes away when the car reaches third (sometimes second gear). Took to BMW and they reckon its the transfer box - at about $4,000. Any idea if this 180 degree fix would also cure this problem?
 
#287 ·
Hi azip,
It's definitely worth trying it first, normally when it's just the actuator you should hear a clicking noise coming from under the car (xfer case) when you sw the car off. Mine did exactly the same as yours, unfortunately my xfer box is also shot, had very little oil in!!
 
#288 ·
I have the exact same problem (lights, clicking sound, etc.) I just left my mechanic who recommended a gear replacement as opposed to the entire transfer case, motor and all. He even pulled up a picture of the gear on line to explain what he was talking about. He also stated that his mechanic just returned from a BMW conference/seminar in FLA and that this was one of the topics covered. He has a line on a supplier for the black gear and has asked whether I would agree to be his first test case (Guinea pig) for a gear replacement, as opposed to the entire transfer case swap it. He stated that the cost would be much less than a full replacement. He is ordering the part and I am due back in a few days for the gear replacement.
 
#289 ·
Well, the repair is complete ... And it worked. He even was so honest that he admitted that they consulted a YouTube video on part of the disassembly. He gave me the old black plastic gear which has the tell- tale worn down teeth. He was confident in the finished product and charged me (with tax included) $501.00. He remarked that this will save other customers a lot of money in repairs that would have been spent replacing the entire unit.
 
#290 ·
hello everyone,

this thread has helped a lot in finding out what was the problem with these dreaded three lights and instead of dishing out 1000 dollars for a new assembly i have done the fix with the bronze gear from italy just a couple days ago and will keep you posted on what happens and if there are any problems
 
#293 ·
Okay, so i had this 3 lights thing with cluck, cluck, cluck on turning off. Took the vehicle to my local mechanic ("Indy"). I purchased the vehicle (used) with an extended warranty. However, on checking with the Extended warranty company, the Actuator is not covered :cry:. So, before I could refer him to this fix, he had already pulled the actuator out and opened it up and confirmed the worn portion of the black cog. On arrival, I tried to explain this fix to him, but he wasn't in agreement and didn't quite understand the concept. Anyway, i left and noticed that i couldn't get the 3 lights to come back on, so I am assuming he inadvertently moved the worn portion away from the worm drive. COOL! BUT, later that evening, i needed to get some stuff from the shop, so drove it like it was stolen and tried my damndest to get the 3 lights back on but couldn't. So, i was very happy. Parked and went into and back out the shop. Started the vehicle again and immediately, before even moving or changing gear, the 4x4 light came on, but not the others. I can feel that only the back wheels are engaged. I got under the vehicle today, expecting one of the electronic plugs to have come lose, but they weren't. Pulled them both off and plugged back in again, also checked all fuses and finally pulled the battery off to reset the ECU's... still left with the 4x4 only light on...

Any ideas?
 
#295 ·
Took my x3 to a gearbox specialist today. They have a transfer case open at the moment, reconditioning it and have apparently done 3 or 4 in the last few months. They ran a diag on my car and it had a fault on the transfer case: VTG internal mechanism or something like that. They recon its a problem in the transfer case, not the actuator.

I still think its the actuator, reading lots of other forums. Some have had success on re-calibrating the system for the actuator sensor or something like that. I've tried the steering sensor reset with disconnecting/reconnecting the battery and turning steering all the way left, then right then left, no luck.

Going to pull the actuator out soon and check it out, just in case. How can I test if the actuator is actually working? I saw an earlier post here or somewhere that the actuator motor was hanging out and the ignition turned on and the actuator motor turns a few times. Can anyone confirm this?
 
#296 ·
Took my x3 to a gearbox specialist today. They have a transfer case open at the moment, reconditioning it and have apparently done 3 or 4 in the last few months. They ran a diag on my car and it had a fault on the transfer case: VTG internal mechanism or something like that. They recon its a problem in the transfer case, not the actuator.

I still think its the actuator, reading lots of other forums. Some have had success on re-calibrating the system for the actuator sensor or something like that. I've tried the steering sensor reset with disconnecting/reconnecting the battery and turning steering all the way left, then right then left, no luck.

Going to pull the actuator out soon and check it out, just in case. How can I test if the actuator is actually working? I saw an earlier post here or somewhere that the actuator motor was hanging out and the ignition turned on and the actuator motor turns a few times. Can anyone confirm this?
Took my X3 to another mechanic who has a GT1 scan machine. I asked him to reset the Steering Sensor, which was successful, as well as the Actuator. The GT1 couldn't communicate with or calibrate the sensor on the Actuator and came up with an error. So, we contacted BMW stealership and they had one in stock. Going to install tonight. Probably need to have that calibrated anyway before the 4x4 light goes away... HOPEFULLY this is the fix for my problem!!! Holding thumbs...
 
#298 ·
plastic!!!

Years ago, it was discovered that nylon toothed cam gears experienced rapid aging in a hot oil environment. If this is happening with the gear in question, the area that is worn is just where it was operating when the plastic reached that stage of deterioration. It would help if someone with a bad gear in hand checked it. Typically, aged plastic gets brittle. Twist a flat blade screwdriver between two good teeth. If they bend - good news. If they snap off, the gear is probably shot.
 
#300 ·
Years ago, it was discovered that nylon toothed cam gears experienced rapid aging in a hot oil environment.
With the difference that these gears never get in contact with hot oil...it's still a mystery of why some will fail and some won't. I recently took mine out of my 2005 X3 with 130,00 miles and it still in "new' condition.
 
#301 · (Edited)
Okay I'm back and so are the 3 lights :mad:

Pulled off the actuator again to see if the plastic gear was getting damaged in the newer area I supposedly moved it to and NO. I assume it has somehow moved around back to the buggered area... I tried to measure out how wide the damaged area is and it looks like about 100 degrees. So, worked out to put the screw drive contacting dead center of the GOOD area. Put all back together, all in all 2 hours job. (non-mechanically minded :) ) Started the car, put in reverse and moved back about a meter and the lights came on again.

So, I am wildly assuming dead center is not right and should be either side of the GOOD area, ie. it moves from set position up to 90 degrees clockwise, or anti clockwise... This could mean pulling this damn thing out 2 more times and i just don't have the energy today AGAIN... :cry:

any ideas?

Next option is buying a new gear off eBay , but our currency has depreciated SO badly over the last week that it is not worth it right now. Will have to wait a bit... Cheapest I could find on eBay was $98.

Any other options?
 
#302 ·
Okay I'm back and so are the 3 lights :mad:

Pulled off the actuator again to see if the plastic gear was getting damaged in the newer area I supposedly moved it to and NO. I assume it has somehow moved around back to the buggered area... I tried to measure out how wide the damaged area is and it looks like about 100 degrees. So, worked out to put the screw drive contacting dead center of the GOOD area. Put all back together, all in all 2 hours job. (non-mechanically minded :) ) Started the car, put in reverse and moved back about a meter and the lights came on again.

So, I am wildly assuming dead center is not right and should be either side of the GOOD area, ie. it moves from set position up to 90 degrees clockwise, or anti clockwise... This could mean pulling this damn thing out 2 more times and i just don't have the energy today AGAIN... :cry:

any ideas?

Next option is buying a new gear off eBay , but our currency has depreciated SO badly over the last week that it is not worth it right now. Will have to wait a bit... Cheapest I could find on eBay was $98.

Any other options?
Okay, so i bought a new Odometers gear online, waiting for it to arrive and will replace.
 
#304 ·
Maybe you can email Odometer Gears and ask them, they would know.
 
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