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Dynamic Drive Inactive

12K views 33 replies 15 participants last post by  KingSilverback 
#1 ·
Hey fellas I'm getting this error and am wondering why. Let me give you some background the car has been sitting for the past 9 months, I had my wife start it and drive it one a week or so, a few months ago it wouldn't start because the battery died so I had my son put the charger on it and harged it for about 24hrs after the charge he started it with no problem then I told him to turn off the battery. So it sat like that for about 9 months today I got home and started it and go this error (image attached) can anyone help me out with this?
 

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#2 ·
I've had that error the past 2 months. I've been lagging on taking it to the dealer. I've read it can be anything from your battery to alternator to something else. I replaced my batter like in Feb or March. If my alternator is bad I figure it would've given out these past 2 months. I should really take it in though...

Sent from my HTC One X using Bimmer App
 
#3 ·
Oh ok well I'll take it to them Monday ad see what they tell me.
 
#5 ·
Ok I'll put it on the charger now, however since I had the car I haven't changed the battery so I think it's time. What's the best place to get one?
 
#6 ·
Charged the battery, but that didn't help. Anymore suggestions?
 
#9 ·
Good info MakaveliFaison, however I can't get my INPA/NCSExpert working keeps getting errors. I'm currently trying to get some help
 
#10 ·
Search is your friend! my guess Alternator, took to dealer, he said its Battery, i said are you sure alt is ok, he said yes, they changed battery, after driving for an hour, came back on, so changed alternator and all works fine now
 
#11 ·
Tarek?! I haven't heard from you in ages brotha! How have you been?
 
#14 ·
Search is your friend! my guess Alternator, took to dealer, he said its Battery, i said are you sure alt is ok, he said yes, they changed battery, after driving for an hour, came back on, so changed alternator and all works fine now
Did you guys get your alternators checked before you got them replaced? if so what was the result, were they putting out the right charge? the reason I ask is because I just got my checked at Autozone and it checked out fine, I have an appointment at the Dealer to get it checked by them but the SA already said he don't think its that.
 
#13 ·
Ok guys that sounds like a plan.
 
#15 ·
In my case the battery kept draining. I tickle charged it 3 times & it wouldn't hold. Autozone's analyzer also told me the battery & alt were charging correctly too. I noticed the car was sluggish & hesitant. Then one day out blue it just died. On that day I got the same dydnamic drive message and others. Everything just quit. I towed it to the Stealer who said it was the alt & battery. I asked him to just recharge battery & it ran good for a while. I was also experiencing slow starts and cutoffs at red lights and hesitation. Thats when my Dashsoft tool arrived and a P0492 (i think) code. My Indy told me my hpfp (high pressure fuel pump was bad) Since replacing those I have been riding high!
 
#16 ·
Oh ok, I just got dashsoft installed and working but I don't quite know how to use it maybe I'll look around in there to see if I can find an error. Thanks
 
#22 ·
Do you know how to do this? because I don't lol.
 
#20 ·
I have this same issue as well. Just been living with it for now. Had the battery replaced only a few months ago (BMW shop). Gonna keep an eye on this thread. My car has been doing other random stuff as well(mentioned in this thread "car stuttering at stops, slow to take off, etc")

@TX - its in the idrive menu. I dont know how it shows on the newer cars. But it should have a DTC/DSC buttons. You click them with the idrive selector and they will turn off. Although my DSC is broken, it has been nice doing burn outs, lol
 
#21 ·
Haha!!! Man on 2 separate occasions I was trying to bounce out quickly from a stop and even though I have nice tread, the wheels start to spin and then the car just bogs down. :mad: I wanna see what my baby can do! :rofl: It must can white smoke pretty easily...

~ Big Marcus
 
#26 ·
Don't have INPA working yet but will work on it thanks

I followed tips from AceFx, check out his threads & YouTube videos. I think the DME module is where you might want to look. I'm 100% "dont know what-the-heck I'm doing". :D
I did check AceFx's work out and picked up a few things, i will look at the DME module today

iDrive Car settings...Top Left says DTC. highlight and press HOLD iDrive button. for a few seconds. will come up with DSC inactive.
Will try this soon, thanks for the tip
 
#27 ·
Tried all suggestions on here and still didn't get rid of my error, so I took it to the dealer and they said its my ARS Module and needs to be replaced and will cost $1150 I just hope it will correct my isssue for good.
 
#28 ·
Ok so I tried looking at my ARS Module with DASHSOFT to see if I can do activate it or do anything to it but I can't because there are 2 errors (no numbers) I think the dealer deactivated it or something and I don't even know what line to look at to reactivate it and google is of no help. I noticed an option in Dashsoft to load a file to the unit erom an external source and figured that maybe I can ask someone to send me their ARS Module file their car so that I can either look at and copy it or load it to my car's ARS Module to see if that works.

So if anyone of you have Dashsoft and don't mind Exporting, Saving, and Sending me your ARS Module's file please do because I think it would help our allot.
 
#31 ·
Good gosh! this is like reading a foreign language! I would like to ask. If the Dynamic Drive system shows the system is disengaged, why do you suspect the battery of alt? Maybe, there is a sensor/sensors going bad? Is this just an electrical glitch? I just bought a 2004 745Li and it seems to me about every 5 to 10 start ups, I will get the Dynamic Drive Inactive message. So, is there a true test or fault isolation route I could use?
I'm new here to the forums, so forgive me for not knowing all the acronyms.
 
#33 ·
I had these same problems, I ended up replacing my battery and alternator...about two weeks ago, no problems since. I got a brand new OEM 180 amp non-water cooled alternator for 315$ shipped instead of 638$ from BMW! Also an OE battery from O'reillys with warranty for 160$, instead of 312$ from stealership. But wait there's more, after all that you need to register the battery at Stealership, for another 115$.

I hope this can give you some insight on what you can possibly expect financially, also the person for the alternator for half the price!!!
 
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