Oil Drain Plug suggestions

I recently bought a 540i and went to change the oil in it today. Much to my surprise the drain plug was coated in JB weld and I could not get it out. My guess is the bolt was stripped by the previous owner and this was his lazy way of fixing it. My question is is there any other alternative to fixing the drain plug other than buying a new oil pan? I priced an oil pan at a local junk yard for $100, so that is an option. Just was curious if there is any other way to fix it. Also, on a side note how hard is the oil pan to replace?

Thanks

I would check first which part was stripped (bolt or pan).
If it's the pan, the 100 bux goes long ways.
He might have stripped the bolt and replaced it with a new one and just JB welded it on?
I would get a new plug from the dealer (it's cheap) and try it out on the old pan. If it's loosey-goosey, the pan is stripped.

Why not buy a new oil pan screw plug and gasket ring? You can start here for the details... http://bmwfans.info/parts/catalog/E3...l_indicator-2/

Not sure on the specific production month for your car.

It is pretty much likely that the pan is stripped not the bolt. Otherwise the PO wouldn't glue it. And the bolt is harder material than the pan.

You can drill out the bolt and tap the hole and use a thicker bolt or just replace the pan.
As I heard it is easy to take off the oil pan on a 540, at least it is easy compared to the 528.
(I would take it off even if I would reuse it to make sure it's clean inside)

Temporarily you could use an oil extractor for the current oil change.

You could use a helicoil insert to replace the damaged threads in the pan.

Replace with a Fumoto oil drain valve so no one ever needs to use the threads again.

Originally Posted by acoste

It is pretty much likely that the pan is stripped not the bolt. Otherwise the PO wouldn't glue it. And the bolt is harder material than the pan.

You can drill out the bolt and tap the hole and use a thicker bolt or just replace the pan.
As I heard it is easy to take off the oil pan on a 540, at least it is easy compared to the 528.
(I would take it off even if I would reuse it to make sure it's clean inside)

Temporarily you could use an oil extractor for the current oil change.

Agreed with this one except I think the bolt is usually designed softer than the pan threads.

Replacing the pan is easy (25 bolts) but not cheap to replace $250.

Can try drill and tap method since you may have to spend the $250 anyway to fix it right.

Otherwise, can buy a Mityvac extractor for about $60 and just change your oil through the dipstick. Many people prefer this method anyway.

I would just use oil extractor and call it a day.
If you don't have one you can buy one and probably at a lower cost then a whole oil pan.

If OP decides not to buy a mityvac he can also read through these two threads:

http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/sho...d.php?t=458601

http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/sho...d.php?t=478503

and since you're new to the forum, this one is an invaluable thread you should bookmark for future reference:

http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/sho...03#post5409998

Is there any cons to using an extractor? Perhaps sucking up "bad stuff" back through the engine? I'm thinking that since I found an oil pan for $100 and an extractor would cost me $60, might just be better off replacing the oil pan. I will probably buy a couple of extra plugs just to be safe. The oil in it is still pretty clean, so it's not a dire emergency but I would like to fix it by next week. On another note, thanks for all the useful tips and links!

Originally Posted by Tester87

Is there any cons to using an extractor? Perhaps sucking up "bad stuff" back through the engine? I'm thinking that since I found an oil pan for $100 and an extractor would cost me $60, might just be better off replacing the oil pan. I will probably buy a couple of extra plugs just to be safe. The oil in it is still pretty clean, so it's not a dire emergency but I would like to fix it by next week. On another note, thanks for all the useful tips and links!

OP many of these topics have been thoroughly discussed before:

http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/sho...d.php?t=556984

https://www.google.com/search?q=bimm...&oe=utf-8&aq=t

Best recommendation is to learn to use the search function above.

Personally if you can find a used pan for $100, I'd go that route.

Although you could use the extractor on ANY car spreading the $60 cost over many cars and even your next car after you tire of the E39 maintenance.

I have tried both methods and have concluded that Draining oil from the bottom is stupid. Your E39 is one of few cars that allows you to change oil without ever getting under the car (the oil filter is easily accessible from top) Get an oil extractor and you can easily change oil with minimum effort. Changing oil w/ an oil extractor is 40 secs of work (pumping) and 10 mins of watching your oil flowing and beer drinking.

Cheers,

beewang

The only real argument for draining is that it forces you to go under the car at a regular intervals so you can inspect for leaks or damage.

Originally Posted by d geek

The only real argument for draining is that it forces you to go under the car at a regular intervals so you can inspect for leaks or damage.

Ya but every time I do that my wallet gets lighter

If your getting a new oil pan you can check to see if you have peices of your timing guides in there.

Don't forget the gasket! buy a couple of washers also.

If it were my car I'd take the pan off and get the next size larger bolt and have the existing hole tapped larger if in fact the threads in the hole are bad. The OEM bolt is M12 x 1.5 Use an M14 x 1.5 bolt and an M14 aluminum or copper washer.
If you don't have taps or have never tapped a hole before bring it to a machine shop, it shouldn't take them more than a few minutes to do it.
I replaced my drain bolt many years ago after the BMW warranty (free oil changes) expired. I think the techs at the dealer were over tightening it and messed up the threads on the bolt. The pan threads were fine. There is a bung welded in the inside of the pan that is plenty large enough to take a larger drain plug (bolt).
There are also expandable rubber drain plugs that might work.
Replacing the pan is pretty easy, the hardest part may be cleaning off the remains of the old gasket, not really a big job.
Just my opinion, but real guys crawl under the car to change the oil. Like the OP said you can see if there are any leaks from other places it would be nice to know before you are stranded and waiting for a flatbed to take you home.
Here's a pic of the inside of the oil pan with some measurements.