Bad maf?

97 M3, car dies at very low speeds only when you tap the gas and let off immediatley. I unplugged the maf, and the car runs excellent. How long can it be driven with it unplugged, if at all? Im ordering a new one, should be here shortly. Drive with it plugged in til I get the new one or unplugged? Thanks in advanced for any advice. Im new to the E36, Its for my wife, I drive a e39 540/6

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Originally Posted by RockChalk4Life

97 M3, car dies at very low speeds only when you tap the gas and let off immediatley. I unplugged the maf, and the car runs excellent. How long can it be driven with it unplugged, if at all? Im ordering a new one, should be here shortly. Drive with it plugged in til I get the new one or unplugged? Thanks in advanced for any advice. Im new to the E36, Its for my wife, I drive a e39 540/6

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I can't say for sure but I wouldn't be doing much at all... even an hour of driving sounds like a bad idea to me. Of course it depends how badly you need to drive and how hard it is to get it fixed, but still.

Also what other symptoms have you had because of your MAF? Are your revs stable? How about high RPMs? I ask as my 320i is having issues, and I'm wondering whether the MAF is causing some of them.

Clean, Clean, Clean the MAF.. remove screens on MAF, use spray FIRST, (and LIGHTLY with q-tip if necessary) clean the element.
Clean Throttle body
Clean Throttle position sensor
Check for vacuum leaks
Check the hoses that are plumbed into the boot on intake

Disconnect, clean, lube, and reconnect all associated electrical connections.

If you still needs a MAF/HFM.. I think I got a couple somwheres.

Cheers!

Thanks for the advice, I cleaned it, still bad, I had already orderes one, but im going to clean it again, more thoroughly.

Only symptons is hard starting, rough idle, dies at low speeds, does ok normal driving and highway.


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Problem solved, hose from maf boot to idle air control was torn at both ends. Replaced that , now all is good.

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i do not understand why people assume that once a major input like a maf gets unplugged and the vehicle 'runs better', that it must be that part.

it goes into default mode at that point, which is almost like open loop. this would mask exactly this concern stated here (thanks, btw, chalk, for posting the resolution in the thread ).

this thread should serve as proof positive that guessing is expensive, and that a proper visual inspection is priceless.

and that simply unplugging the maf and making it run better does *not* mean that the maf is at fault.




df

Originally Posted by drivinfaster

i do not understand why people assume that once a major input like a maf gets unplugged and the vehicle 'runs better', that it must be that part.

it goes into default mode at that point, which is almost like open loop. this would mask exactly this concern stated here (thanks, btw, chalk, for posting the resolution in the thread ).

this thread should serve as proof positive that guessing is expensive, and that a proper visual inspection is priceless.

and that simply unplugging the maf and making it run better does *not* mean that the maf is at fault.




df

+1

Yea, I now know and understand this. It was just a $14 idle air hose when I assumed it was a maf, plugged in new maf, the car ran worse. Took apart the intake tubes up to the throttle body and did a closer look and found the torn hose.
Lesson learned, I hope.


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Originally Posted by bmw-mania

yadda yadda
Check for vacuum leaks
Check the hoses that are plumbed into the boot on intake
yadda yadda

Cheers!

Glad you got it all sorted!