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Heater Hoses maintenance at 150K

13K views 31 replies 19 participants last post by  cn90 
#1 ·
Hi guys,

Just wondering what you guys think re Heater Hoses maintenance at 150K. Having owned many cars over the years, I understand that the heater hoses are unreliable after some 17y/150K miles.

In May 2006, at 90K, I overhauled the cooling system (rad, 2 rad hoses, WP, fan clutch, reservoir, belts, tensioners etc.). I did NOT touch the heater hoses.

There are about 7 hoses I want to replace (at the rear of engine, at heater valves, throttle body and the long hose from reservoir). The cost is about $100 or so. But I wonder what you guys think...



 

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#4 ·
What condition were your hoses in?
 
#10 ·
This is great information for the heater-hose thread, so I'll cross reference.
- How to locate all the cooling system hoses in the BMW E39 (1)

I think, at this point in the E39 life, that all the rubber is likely due for replacement.
- What is the recommended parts list for a complete cooling system overhaul (1)

What we need is a comprehensive list of all the hoses, if that doesn't already exist in the two combined threads above...

See also:
- What is the recommended parts list for a complete cooling system overhaul (1) quickie telephone verbal instructions for unlocking the high instrument cluster on the E39 to test the koolant KTMP (1) & how to tell whether you have the high or low on board computer cluster (1) & a video showing how to unlock the low OBC (1) or the high OBC cluster for diagnostics (1) & how to change the OBC MID IHKA KTMP temperature from degrees Celcius to Fahrenheit (1) & how to locate all the cooling system hoses in the BMW E39 (1) & how to non-destructively remove the heater hoses (1) or radiator nipple (1) or expansion tank nipple (1) or overflow hose Oetiker clamp (1) & how not to misplace the thermostat wiring loom (1) & how not to twist a plastic bleeder screw (1) & the cn90 trick to get the fan clutch nut back on (1) & bluebee tricks to get the radiator back on in the I6 automatic (1) & the teklord69 trick to cutting the fan shroud so that the viscous van clutch nut can be removed easily (1) & what is the proper coolant level bobber stick height (1) & what to do when your expansion tank coolant level sensor float measuring stick is MIA missing in action (1) & a mechanical fan clutch delete to switch to an electrical fan (1) & where to find leaks when the CHECK COOLANT LEVEL is lit on the instrument cluster (1) & a pictorial saga of all the ways the cooling system can fail (1) & how to diagnose lack of HVAC/IHKA heater core heat with cooling system (auxiliary pump) at idle (1) & where the coolant level sensor cable goes (1) & what is the o-ring size for the coolant temperature aux fan thermoswitch (1) & how the thermostat works, including what the normal temperature of the coolant is when the thermostat opens under normal conditions (1) & how to remove just the expansion tank to repair a leak during your cooling system overhaul (1) & how the expansion tank works (1) & users' behr/hella cooling system autopsy photos (1) & what to check on your new Behr/Hella expansion tanks to ensure it's not DOA (1) & how to test the cooling system auxiliary electrical fan (1) & a how to replace the aux fan (1) & where is the auxiliary fan fuse F75 (1) & where is the aux fan relay (1) & how to make your own BMW special cooling & belt drive system counterhold tools (1) & how to retrofit brass bleeder screws (1) & how to modify the cooling system expansion tank 2 bar cap to 1.2 bar to vent at a lower pressure (1) & how to modify the cooling system pressure with zero psi coolant (1) & how to eliminate weak recycled plastic with Zionsville aluminum (1) & how not to (JB Weld) fix a cracked radiator or other cooling system overhaul leaks (1) & how to tell the age of your cooling system by its date date codes, stickers, and plastic molded markings (1) & how to retrofit a coolant level sensor to an E39 that doesn't have it (1) & how to test the cooling system auxiliary electrical fan (1) (2) & a DIY for how to replace the aux fan (1) (2) (3) & where is the infamous auxilliary fan Fuse F75 (1) & where is the auxiliary fan relay (1) & summary advice to provide users who suspect a major engine repair due to overheating (1) & how to test an overheated engine for a blown head gasket, cracked heads, a warped block, stripped head bolt threads, cam seizures, contaminated bearings, coolant hydrolock, or piston, ring, or valve damage (1) & what are the major factors in deciding whether to rebuild the engine, replace the engine, or sell the car (1) & a DIY for replacing the I6 M54 head gasket (1) & a DIY for replacing the V8 M62TU head gasket (1) & why these engines are so prone to heat-related damage in the first place (1) & welding the crack between cylinder #3 and the water jacket on the exhaust side (1) & what engine swaps are most recommended (1) & where to obtain a new or rebuilt head (1) or a replacement short block or long block (1) & how to lift & remove the engine (1) & how long can you drive your BMW E39 with the viscous fan clutch removed (1) & what is the most often recommended coolant (1) & tricks for efficient flushing (1) draining (1) bleeding (1) and coolant refilling DIYs (1)
 
#15 ·
I just found out today that one of these hoses (4,5 and 8) need to be replaced so I'm having my indy replace them all. For months, the car had rough idle during cold start, and had a cooling system overhaul over the last 6 months (meaning pretty much all components have been replaced after two overheats). The leaks in these hoses were undetected until it got big enough to have coolant leaking under the water pump. It is a 16-year old car and nothing was replaced under the intake manifold as shown by the car's service record in the last 5 years. Since this will be opened up during the hose R&R, what other things should I ask my indy to have replaced?
 
#19 ·
Knock sensors
Dual-temp sensor between cyls 5 & 6

Like the two fiberglass heater pipes, these are virtually impossible to reach, let alone replace unless the intake manifold is off. I don't read much about anyone having trouble with the knock sensors, but the cheap dual-temp sensor has been known to go bad.

When you have the manifold off, it's also much easier to replace the entire CCV system, or the starter if it's a suspect, but these are things that many people still manage to replace even with the manifold in place.
 
#17 ·
If you have the funds, replace the knock sensors and hoses the from the heater control valve that run to the firewall...Any other vacuum hoses and rubber caps under and behind the Intake Manifold. Lately I've seen more and more starter issues, so maybe replacing the starter wouldn't be a bad idea!?
 
#22 ·
Hi guys,

I started this thread in 2015 (2 years ago), now I need to revisit this issue as the car is 20 years old (build date was Sept. 1997) and with 165K miles.

If any of you ever had a busted heater hose(s), when did that happen (year/mileage)?
 
#25 ·
CN90, I just do all the hoses, including the heater hoses as part of your proscribed 100k mile cooling system overhaul. ;)
So they've been replaced twice on my car now. They are cheap, and when everything else is being done, only adds an extra hour of work. Parts are cheap.

Even Mike Miller the tech from Roundel recommends 150k hose replacements (all of them). He says oem BMW hoses are some of the best quality around.
 
#26 ·
As I recall mine started with a pinhole at the rear of the engine at the clamp... where they almost always seem to begin their leaking. 2000 540i 150K on it.

Since the clamp area seems to be the weak point, I put a wrap of thick rescue tape under the clamp at both ends of the hoses. Not sure if I did anything good, but it certainly wasn't anything bad.
 
#27 · (Edited)
Would you happen to know how to replace the coolant hose from the BOTTOM of the expansion tank(pretty sure it was #11 in your diagram), that runs across the fan shroud to near the air intake(im new to this). I was able to do a coolant system overhaul besides this hose. Unfortunately i believe the hose came into friction with the ac compressor which helped tear it apart. I have no clue how to replace this hose. not sure how to post a picture sorry( Btw i have a 1998 528i 5-speed Manual (prod date 09/1997)
 
#28 ·
The reason that hose rubs the AC pulley is that: someone did the work on the car such as changing reservoir, when done they forgot to clip that hose to the plastic clip on the radiator shroud. Look carefully at the bottom of the radiator, you will see that plastic clip.

Anyway, that hose PN is 11531744054. Buy only BMW brand, not aftermarket if possible.

Below is my photo from another job but I labeled that hose with yellow dots.
Once the Air Mass Meter and the Intake Boot are out, you can clearly see the hose.
Make sure you note the routing of the hose beforehand.

---
 

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#29 ·
That someone would definitely be me *sigh* lol. All that work for another redo.Hopefully third times a charm. Anyways thanks for the vivid description and pics to help!! I took pics but its asking me for a URL(all i have is a .JPG).

How difficult would you say removing the Air Mass Meter and Intake Boot would be? Im a real rookie but i managed to do a cooling system overhaul last month. well technically i failed. Any special tools involved?
 
#30 ·
Very easy...

I wrote a CCV ICV etc. DIY 10 years ago, please see the link below.
https://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/showthread.php?t=379225

Everything you need is in the first photo.
Just common sense, 10-mm socket, basic screwdriver.
Nothing fancy.
Once the MAF and rubber boot are out, the heater hose you mentioned is right there...

PS: I admire that you are a novice but already attempted cooling overhaul...
 
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