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1998 528I Oil Filter Housing Gasket & “Freeze Plugs” Repair (E39)

192K views 97 replies 45 participants last post by  Bmwe39528i 
#1 · (Edited)
DIY: 1998 528I Oil Filter Housing Gasket & "Freeze Plugs" Repair

- I have what seems to be an oil leak along the Oil Pan Gasket. To replace the Oil Pan Gasket, it is a massive job on the 6-cylinder engine!!! So I went to the BWM dealer and they say that they virtually never sell an Oil Pan Gasket!
But they fix quite a bit of Oil Filter Housing Gasket, actually they have a whole bunch of these gaskets in stock!

- I did a little more research and apparently the Oil Pan Gasket is made out of some very tough material with a steel re-enforcement and should last into 180-200K miles. So I figure out common things are common and rare things are rare!

- As it turns out, I have leak at both Oil Filter Housing Gasket and "Freeze Plugs". It is an easy DIY, roughly 3-4h job.

- To my pleasant surprise, I have no more oil leak after one week, so those who think you have a leak at Oil Pan Gasket, think again, it is likely the Oil Filter Housing Gasket and "Freeze Plugs" Leak!!!

* The issue of "Freeze Plugs" leak was discussed here:
http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/showthread.php?p=4701933
Instead of removing the "Freeze Plugs" and tap threads for an "NPT Thread" Plug, I decided to use an M7 bolts + washer for repair, and it works great (see below).

To check for a Freeze Plug Leak, use a mirror and flashlight:



* Info on drive belt layout and belt tensioner (32-mm thin wrench for Fan Clutch Nut <REVERSE Thread> and 5/16" Allen wrench for tensioner):
http://www.bimmerboard.com/forums/posts/199986

* Info on how to remove Air Filter Housing is part of my DIY for ICV, CCV etc.:
http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/showthread.php?t=379225

NOTE:
- Check realoem.com for your PN.
- Check your belt layout and make a diagram before taking it off.
- The PN for my 1998 528I Oil Filter Housing Gasket is 11421719855 ($5.00 at BMW dealer).
- Observe Torque Values (look it up) for different bolts.
M8 bolts = 22 Nm (Oil Filter Housing)
M10 bolts = 33 Nm


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PART I: OIL FILTER HOUSING, ALTERNATOR REMOVAL

1. Disconnect Battery Positive Terminal in the trunk (10-mm wrench, be careful not to short with the ground bar!)

2. Remove Fan Clutch: 32-mm wrench. Note it is REVERSE thread!
During re-installation if you have difficult threading the Fan Clutch Nut back on the Water Pump bolt, you can use my "Poultry Cord" trick:
http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/showthread.php?p=2758628

Use 5/16" Allen wrench for tensioner to remove belt.

3. Disconnect the DSC System Connector.

4. Remove the Air Filter Housing/Air Mass Meter as a Unit. Remove the 10-mm bolt and clamps and wiggle the whole thing out watching not to damage the Intake Rubber Elbow.

5. Remove the 13-mm Bolts the PS Reservoir and set it aside:



6. Alternator is mounted by two (2) 16-mm bolts. The UPPER Bolt holds the Pulley.
The positive cable connection is a 13-mm Nut.
- D/C connector
- D/C Cooling Air Intake
- Then Alternator comes out (It swivels on the LOWER bolt).
- During re-installation, use a smaller rod or screwdriver to help guide the Alternator back on the slot.



7. To remove the Oil Filter Housing:
- Disconnect VANOS Banjo-style Oil Line attachment to the VANOS using 19-mm wrench.
Do NOT lose the 2 aluminum washers, I re-use these washers. Torque for this 19-mm Banjo Bolts: 32 Nm.
- Optional: Remove Tensioner (Yellow Arrows) using 13-mm sockets. You don't have to do this step as it can be left attached to the O.F. Housing.
- The O.F. Housing is held by a total of 8 bolts.
- The six (6) 13-mm bolts have different lengths: mark them #1-6 to avoid confusion. In the event that you forgot to mark them, no worry, I laid them out in order as shown.
- Remove two (2) 13-mm bolts (# 7-8) on top of the PS Pump.



8. Now the O.F. Housing comes out easily. Remove old gasket and clean the mating surfaces to make sure it is spotless for re-installation.

9. If you decide to de-grease this area, go slowly!!! Stuff a rag inside the Engine Housing to prevent dirt or water from coming in. Avoid garden hose or pressure washer for obvious reasons!!!
- Wipe it clean with a rag and Q-tips so no oil is left behind.



10. Have a look at the O.F. Housing:
- Note the Oil Pressure Sensor on the back side.
- Note the Engine Oil Anti-Drain Back Valve.
- When installing new gasket, I use a thin smear of grease to seal any imperfection (this is just my way, you don't have to do it).
- Check both the mating surfaces to be sure it is spotless before re-installation:



- The Gasket barely sticks out (maybe 0.2 mm), so avoid using additional gasket maker here because it can potentially affect the Factory Gasket sealing:



Re-installation:
- Straightforward.
- Note all connectors and re-install them.
- Watch torque values.
- Wipe all oil leak in engine compartment and along oil pan gasket area so you can monitor these areas later.
- Re-connect Battery Positive Terminal.
- Start engine and check for any oil leaks at Housing or Banjo connection.

Congrats, you just spent $5.00 and saved some 4h of labor charge at dealer or indy! Now let's move on to fixing the Oil Filter Housing Leak itself.

---------------------------------------
PART II: OIL FILTER HOUSING "FREEZE PLUGS" LEAK REPAIR

- After the following repair of "Freeze Plug" Leak, my car is bone dry, not a single drop of oil leak!

Parts List (All of these can be obtained at Ace Hardware Store) for about $12.00:
- Stainless Steel M7 x 10 mm bolts; qty = 2.
- Optional: M6 x 10 mm bolts; qty = 2 for "dry fit".
- Stainless Steel Washers O.D. = 1-1/4"; I.D. = 5/16" (5/16" = 8 mm to accept the 7 mm bolt).
- Red LocTite, small tube
- Permatex Black RTV Gasket Maker
- Roofing Black Asphalt Caulk




- The "Freeze Plugs" are actually not "Freeze Plugs" but basically Welch Plugs that are stake-punched in from factory to close off holes from casting. It should have been plugged with bolts and washer (later models use bolts and washers). But this design of "Freeze Plugs" is known to cause oil leak in different BMW models.
- A new O.F. Housing is $330!!!
- The leak from my "Freeze Plugs" is about 4-5 drops on the driveway every night. But there is more leak than that (oil blown off on the road and collecting under the oil sump).

1. The hole in the "Freeze Plugs" is made from Aluminum and has a diameter of 6 mm and the M7 bolt fits perfectly.
- Do a search on tap and die of bolts and nuts, but as a rule, the hole to be threaded is always a bit smaller than the new bolt. This is because the M7 bolt has a diameter of 7 mm measured at the tip of the pitches but the measurement at the valley of the pitches is about 6 mm.
- To tap new threads, you can use a tap and die set but if you don't have a tap/die set, no problems. Use the M7 bolt to tap it with 1/4" ratchet. Keep steady pressure and maintain perpendicular path. The bolt is Stainless Steel and the Plug is Aluminum, so the bolts makes new threads with no problem (this is what I did).
- Tap a few turns at a time while removing the metal fragments. The hole is about 5 mm deep.
- Clean the hole from any debris:



2. Now use the smaller M6 x 10 mm bolt to make sure it fits nicely. The idea is: the washer should be 1mm from the housing. This is because this space will be occupied by Permatex RTV Gasket Maker, which will cure into a rubber-like material:



3. Now fit the washer and the M7 x 10 mm bolt as a "dry run". When the bolt is completely in, you should see a 1mm gap between the washer and the housing. Do NOT over-torque this M7 bolt, very easy to strip it!
- Now, remove the bolt and washer and proceed with the sealing job.

4. Apply Roofing Black Asphalt Caulk at the edges. This is where the oil leak happens. The Black Asphalt Caulk will seal it nicely and has a wide range of temp tolerance.

5. Now apply Permatex RTV Gasket Maker as shown, leaving the hole alone. Use Q-tips to clean the hole:



6. Place washer then rotate it a bit to spread the RTV sealant. The Permatex procedure calls for letting the sealant cure for about 2h before tightening the bolt. However I install the bolt right away, read on***8230;...........

7. The M7 x 10 mm bolt: apply a drop of LocTite on the thread and a very small drop of RTV sealant near the bolt's head. Again, use 1/4" ratchet and do NOT over-torque this M7 bolt, very easy to strip it!

8. When the bolt is fully seated, you should be able to rotate the washer because there is 1 mm gap filled with RTV sealant (but after 24h of cure, the RTV sealant will be rubberized and you should not be able to rotate the washer).
- Clean excess RTV Sealant. This is what it looks like prior to re-install:



9. The key thing: you can install everything back in the car but don't start the engine until 24h later to allow the RTV Sealant 24h to completely cure.

Congrats, you just fixed the most difficult problems of Oil Leak from "Freeze Plugs" faced by many BMW drivers for $12.00!

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#64 ·
Just replaced my the OFH gasket of my 530i (with 190k miles) this past Sunday - and no more oil leaks!!! I also had initially thought it was the oil pan gasket and had actually bought it many months ago (and promptly set it aside because of the DIY difficulty). After the "seepage" became drips, I am glad I surf'd this forum again and found this write-up!

I echo the other posts - THANK YOU, CN90, for this (and other) fantastic DIY write-ups!!! :D
 
#66 ·
This was posted today:
> E39 (1997 - 2003) > Oil filter housing gasket

See also:
- How to identify & fix an oil filter housing (OFH) leak (1) (2) (3) (4) & how to identify an oil pan gasket leak (1) & how to remove & replace the E39 V8 oil pan gasket (1) (2) or the E39 I6 oil pan gasket (1) (2) & hints how to replace the rigid metalized I6 oil pan gasket without removing the subframe (1) (2) & if even if you do remove the subframe, how much you may need to bend the gasket (1) & how to build or buy your own hoist & engine-support tools (1) (2) & how to fix broken or stripped oil drain pan plug bolt threads (0) (1) (2) (3) (4) (5) (6) (7) (8) (9) (10) (11) (12) (13) (14) (15) (16) (17) (18) & examples of an E39 M5 oil pan helicoil repair (1) & an E39 M5 timesert repair (1).
 
#67 ·
Thanks... this thread enabled my 530i purchase

This is my first post. I wanted it to be on this thread because it was the post that allowed me buy my first BMW. A guy was selling a 2001 530i in amazing condition. He said that the oil filter housing was leaking, and he would get it fixed prior to sale. I said that I could do it (after reading this!) and offered him $900 less to save him the hassle of a trip to the repair shop. He said yes, and I now own a near-mint condition 530i with a 5spd, which I spent the better part of 6 months looking for on a near daily basis. I was looking all across the country for a stick, and here it shows up in my own town. One owner, non smoker. The guy must have weighed 50 pounds because there is minimal driver's seat wear.

The picture of the 6 bolts was SUPER helpful. I had access to everything but just couldn't find them and had to refer to the picture.

As a VW Passat owner, I have to do plenty of work keeping it running. I know that this car will need control arms replaced relatively soon, and someday I'll do the transmission detents (but in no rush there). Still... I have absolutely no regrets on the purchase even knowing I'll be turning a wrench on it now and then. This site has been so helpful... I could not justify an older BMW if I had to pay for service.

Thanks again.

P.S. I've read many of your posts. You provide an amazing service.
 
#69 · (Edited)
What type of OFH plugs are these?

I have a 2000 e39 528i with 120k. My Vanos oil line is leaking. I'm going to replace when I do the CCV replacement. My OFH is the newer style I guess with two sensors on it.

I looked at the OFH plugs, they don't seem to be leaking. Also the plugs don't look like the ones CN90 pictures show. Mine look to be a large torx 30 or 35 bit style? So what does this mean? Do they unscrew? Is there a seal behind them that could be relaced? I looked up the OFH in the M54 with Realoem.com, it did not show any part numbers for the large torx screw caps or a seal?

The reason I ask is that if I'm going to remove the Throtle body and the CCV, then might also remove the OFH and replace the gasket incase it is also leaking.

Thanks
 
#70 ·
More info needed on OFH removal

2000 e39 528i 120k First sorry for the three msg's regarding this procedure. As I stated earlier getting ready to do CCV replacement, and power steering high pressure hose replacement, and now have decided to add in the OFH gasket and Vanos oil line. So my question is it possible to remove the Alternator, Tensioner, and Belt without removing the Fan and Shroud. I just had both out for the Vanos Seal replacement. Really don't want to remove them again if possible. So looking for some feedback.

Thanks
 
#73 ·
So my question is it possible to remove the Alternator, Tensioner, and Belt without removing the Fan and Shroud.
That alternator bolt is pretty long. Not sure if it will come out with the radiator in the way, it will be close. It is so much easier to work in there with the fan and shroud out. If you recently removed the fan, I have heard that it comes out very easily the next time because it hasn't tightened up too much, but I can't verify that as fact. GL
 
#72 · (Edited)
If your going to do the OFH gasket, depending on the type of housing you have you may need to do the fix that CN90 came up with if the freeze plug type plugs are installed on it. I was lucky mine had what looks like a big torx bit cap. Also consider doing the Vanos oil line, and the CCV replacement and hoses. Just read the whole thread here and you should have plenty of info.

edit: When you re-install the Vanos oil line from the OFH pay attention to the position of the oil line it runs between some coolant pipe to the left of it and the Vanos CCV vent tube on the right. Try to position so it doesn't touch either when tightening. I had to re-position mine after I installed it because I didn't notice it was touching the coolant pipe. I used some steel wire to hold it's position and and wood shim between the pipe and oil line, then removed them both after tightening.
 
#74 · (Edited)
Hi Guys well recently I installed the OFH Gasket, Vanos Oil line, and Oil Pan Gasket. The Oil Pan Gasket is okay it's not leaking, but I believe that my new OFH Gasket has a small leak. First I thought it might be coming from the Vanos Oil line but haven't been able to detect any oil from it? I've really been looking at this the best I can without pulling the alternator, PS pump, and OFH. I've tried putting small pieces of paper towel with a hand made tool under the bottom area of the OFH to determine if it's the Gasket or not? At this point it seems that the gasket might be leaking. I really spent a lot of time cleaning the OFH surfaces and the grove that the gasket goes into, the engine block surface to make sure there was nothing on the surfaces, then brake cleaning areas, installed the new gasket, and torqued it down to 18ftlbs. I did not use any sealant. But it seems that it's got a slight leak. Mine is the newer style with the two sensors and large Caps with big torx type plugs, which don't appear to be leaking? Also the new Vanos line does not appear to be leaking, and yes I did install new Vanos line ring seals. Any thoughts? Has anyone else ran into this problem? If so what did you do? I'm thinking that not only do I have to remove the OFH again and get a new gasket, but then what?

Edit: I have what looks to be an Aluminum Block so I don't want to over torque the bolts. I put them in at 18ftlbs. Does anyone have the factory settings? It's a 2000 E39 528i 120k.

Thanks River
 
#75 · (Edited)
Here's the picture of my leak I think is coming from OFH

The first pic is obvious it's the oil, the second is below the OFH doesn't show signs of the oil but I think it's flowing down at an angle because of the engine tilt? Also if the Oil Pan Gasket (which I just did, cut method) was leaking I don't think the oil to go uphill onto the block, but maybe I could be wrong? If it should come back going to stuff some rags inside and under the OFH to stop the oil from going down to the block. That way I might be able to see if it's the OFH or Oil pan gasket.

Edit: Update after cleaning things up today I took the car for a ride about 20 miles and again found some oil in the same area but more toward the OFH. I also looked back on the part I installed it was a Victor Reinz 11421719855 so not sure if some of the problem might be the Victor Reinz Gasket? Going to pickup a BMW one to have on hand just in case.

Thanks
 

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#78 ·
The whole job wasn't bad , 2.5 hours to complete the whole job including a 2 trips to autozone to get degreaser , the leak was very intense , Auto part Engine Fuel line Vehicle Car

Hopefully this will do it for the leak , I didn't have a torque wrench so I snug the VANOS bolt tightly without over doing it and the same for the six bolts on the OHF ... Glad I got this done as I was worried the some oil might get on the exhaust manifold and catch on fire .. Thanks to this post that made the whole thing very easy .

Sent from BimmerApp mobile app
 
#79 ·
Thanks for this write up as there wasn't one for the X5. The only difference in instructions is there is a 13mm short bolt holding the PS Pump on the bottom (accessible from under car).

Since I've removed my Alternator plenty of times, the disassemble/assembly went quickly. I used black rtv to verify a good seal, I made sure to use only a very small bit. I also did an oil change and filter. I used a couple cans of engine degreaser to clean up my engine so I can troubleshoot easier. Took the X5 for a quick drive around the block and still got a leak. I am hoping it was just residual from the original leak since a lot of clear water also was draining out. This is from the water hose cleanup from the degreaser cleaning.

The oil spot on the ground looks dark so I am hoping this is the old oil that was sitting on the larger of the two pans. I probably should have left off the smaller front pan while I monitored the repair.
 
#80 ·
Thanks for this write up as there wasn't one for the X5. The only difference in instructions is there is a 13mm short bolt holding the PS Pump on the bottom (accessible from under car).

Since I've removed my Alternator plenty of times, the disassemble/assembly went quickly. I used black rtv to verify a good seal, I made sure to use only a very small bit. I also did an oil change and filter. I used a couple cans of engine degreaser to clean up my engine so I can troubleshoot easier. Took the X5 for a quick drive around the block and still got a leak. I am hoping it was just residual from the original leak since a lot of clear water also was draining out. This is from the water hose cleanup from the degreaser cleaning.

The oil spot on the ground looks dark so I am hoping this is the old oil that was sitting on the larger of the two pans. I probably should have left off the smaller front pan while I monitored the repair.
So far so good. Got a drop or two which seems to be residual (hopefully) stuff. It's only been a couple days.
 
#81 ·
e36 Oil filter housing leak

Using your write-up I was able to repair my leaking welch plug(s) on the 97 328is with success. I did however deviate slightly from your process with the following changes.

1. Tapped the holes using a 7mm tap.
2. Cut the 7mm bolt down so that the washer would sit flush against the housing.
3. Cleaned the surface with emery cloth before applying gasket maker.
4. Used Permatex Ultra copper gasket maker.

Once I applied a liberal amount of gasket maker I immediately installed the washer and bolt. I let the application cure for 17 hours (had to have the car back on the road) and reassembled.

No leaks after 2000 miles!

Thanks for posting this ingenious under $20 repair (including new housing gasket) :thumbup:
 
#82 ·
First of all, thank you for this fantastic idea!

I just did this to my car, and I feel I must voice some discrepancies, first of all the inner diameter of 5/16" is much too large for a 7mm bolt. Secondly, 6mm bolts don't work period. They slide right in and out of the holes before they are even tapped. 7mm bolts are the way to go, and I don't really understand using a 7mm bolt to tap a hole for a 6mm bolt anyways, if you use a 7mm bolt to tap, you are tapping for a 7mm bolt.
 
#83 ·
#84 ·
Hi CN90. Thanks! I found this after leaving a post on another OFH thread you had. The one I followed elsewhere only mentioned the 6 bolts! I was trying to remove PS UNTIL I saw everything move. Yikes. I hope I didn't damage the rigid PS hoses by pump. Anyway, I am going to remove the bolts 7 and 8 now. However, did you have to support the PS pump or just let it hang?
 
#85 ·
Finished the OFH gasket R&R along with my 2nd CCV R&R.

Couple of things along the way (pics to follow):

1. CCV was much easier the 2nd time around by removing the OFH. However, if you don't need the OFH, I don't know if I'd do it again--just because. It's a lot of work.
2. Alternator re-install was harder than the CCV (to me). Darn bolts were difficult to line up. ONe would, one wouldn't and vice versa
3. There was a radiator hose connected (clamp/screw) to my OFH near the PS that had to be undone before I could remove the OFH.
4. I got a code P0198 (oil temp sensor - high circuit) up starting up for first time. Not sure if because I did so much at once and oil was low maybe, initially. I reset it and let it run 10 minutes and no code, but have not driven it yet.
5. Car ran a little rough at first. Could be because I cleaned out the ICV and maybe there was some brake cleaner in it still. Still need to take for a ride.
6. Noticed a LOT of caked oil on CCV at top and bottom of vent pipe (that connects to the VC). This is the one generic (URO) part I had from previous CCV install (rest was OEM BMW). I believe it was leaking at the VC connection and dripped down to the bottom part of the banjo connector (other end of Vanos). I could have a bad banjos connector too. I noticed it swiveled freely--not sure if that's normal?
7. There was a LOT of debris in the intake to the alternator (vents and all the way up to/inside the alternator (took a while to clean out).
8. For me, it was easiest to hook up the swivel pipe to the CCV first (there are 2 snap-on connections and one swivel--the swivel one is what I'm referring to). With that one done first, the snap-on ones are much easier to work with.
9. Had to replace the hose clamps on PS reservoir as it was dripping ( I used crimp on connectors )
10. I noticed that my PS reservoir cap was missing the oring and now explains why the mess every week or so caked on. Not sure when it was lost, if on there at all. Been doing that from when I first got the ZF reservoir. for reference for others if they need to get one 32411128333 http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts.do?model=DT43&mospid=47584&btnr=32_0722&hg=32&fg=20

I did a lot of maintenance along the way; anything I touched I did some preventive maint on it.
 
#87 ·
The top left bolt, or the longest one for that matter of the six that screw the oil filter housing into the block striped while trying to tighten...i did not even tighten too much or maybe i did. The other five are torqued at 22NM and are tight. What can i do about the one bolt that is now stripped and will not grab in the top left position, or the longest one for that matter? . I took off the aluminum shaving on that bottom half that was around the thread. Please help? Should i get a larger bolt of the same length and screw it in? Help. Help.
 
#91 ·
Some interesting tricks to prevent leak during install.

Thanks to Jason5driver for heads-up on how to prevent bolt galling.

Just did my 2006 X5 3.0i M54 OFH gasket.

1- The oil leak helps prevent bolt galling LOL.

2- I tightened the bolt a tiny bit to hopefully prevent galling LOL, then undo the bolts slowly, a bit at a time.
Fortunately, no galling for me.

3- Bolts #1, #2, #3, #4 are responsible for holding the gasket down.
Bolts #5-#6 for structural support, mostly for the PS Pump.
I was lazy, so I did not undo the PS Pump bolts, I left the OFH in place and simply replaced the gasket.
Again, use only BMW gasket, only $5 or so.

4- Now this is the trick and I verified with the seasoned BMw mechanic.
Torque the bolts slowly in criss-cross pattern.

Bolts #1, #2, #3, #4 are tricky. Once they are torqued down, the gasket is slowly squeezed into place.
Wait 5 min, gently torque Bolts #1, #2, #3, #4 down again.
Do this for about 3 cycles, the bolts should bottom out soon.
Do NOT strip the threads, it is aluminum engine block!

People who have oil leak after OFH Gasket: this is because they torque Bolts #1, #2, #3, #4 only once!
Remember the gasket is like rubber, it is deformed as you squeeze it.
Once the 2 mating surfaces (the OFH and the engine) are touching each other, you are good.
 
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