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Go Back   Bimmerfest - BMW Forums > BMW Model Discussions > 5 Series > E60 / E61 (2004 - 2010)

E60 / E61 (2004 - 2010)
BMW 5-Series E60 Sedan was first seen in the Unites States in the fall of 2003 with a 2004 Model Year designation. The E61 wagon followed shortly there after. The E60/E61 5 series is now available as a 528i, 528xi, 535i, 535xi, 550i and a 535xi sports wagon! -- View the E60 Wiki

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  #26  
Old 11-11-2014, 09:42 AM
banglenot banglenot is offline
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Brilliant. Thank you.

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  #27  
Old 11-11-2014, 09:50 AM
chrisb0003 chrisb0003 is offline
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Originally Posted by banglenot View Post
Brilliant. Thank you.

No problem. If anyone needs any help with the procedure just ask, though you can pretty much just follow the thread about solenoid replacement and then the Sonnax instructions take over once the valve body is out.

Oh yeah, TORQUE EVERYTHING. The valve body is like 6NM and the pan is like 8 or 10, which is nothing. The drain plug has it written on there and if you tighten that one more than what it says it will crack the pan (from my buddy the BMW tech).
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  #28  
Old 11-11-2014, 11:14 AM
switz switz is offline
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Good work! Did you do the solenoids too, or just the zip kit?
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  #29  
Old 11-11-2014, 12:26 PM
chrisb0003 chrisb0003 is offline
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Originally Posted by switz View Post
Good work! Did you do the solenoids too, or just the zip kit?
I did not do the solenoids. I'm not really convinced they would be a permanent fix in my case as I did find other worn parts of the valve body. I'm also going to check with some local tranny shops and see if they have that fixture and could ream the valve body for the replacement pressure regulator valve that Sonnax makes. I think that is where my problem is. That particular valve held about half the vacuum it should and the problem is now about half as bad, so why not? LOL
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  #30  
Old 11-18-2014, 09:29 PM
meangreen94z meangreen94z is offline
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I was leaning toward the zipkit as well. Im guessing you are referring to this overbore kit?
http://www.sonnax.com/parts/2663

Based off the bore in the picture and in reference to the valve body schematic that would be the main pressure regulator valve? What other areas did it have you vacuum test? Im guessing all the control valve bores?

How many miles were on your car/transmission? Were there any other symptoms/issues it resolved? I've had the 35-40 TCC lock up surge since I bought the car at 105k. Now at 108k. Intermittently it will surge at other speeds/gears going up an incline. It also had an delay/surge after downshifting on hard acceleration. The transmission otherwise shifts perfect, none of the other common issues(2-1 jolt, etc.). I can thank the original owner for being one of the few to change the fluid before issues arose.

My wife was driving the car last weekend and for the first time it set a fault under hard acceleration. 4F92 EGS: Ratio monitoring, clutch A-C. Im leaning toward a pressure loss issue in the valve body. Atleast before I tear into the case.
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  #31  
Old 11-19-2014, 05:08 AM
chrisb0003 chrisb0003 is offline
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The clutch A pressure regulator valve was the one on mine that failed the vacuum test. My car has 99,500 miles and it started acting up around 80K. I had the slamming into gear if you were decelerating, then hit the gas real quick; that was resolved with the kit. Mine was surging between 35-40 mph, but ONLY in 5th gear. If I put it in manual and left it in 5th, it would surge any time I had very little pressure on the accelerator pedal; the speed didn't matter. I don't think is was the converter because if it were, it should do it ANY time the converter tried to lock, no matter what gear it was in. Clutch A controls 5th gear and it is also the valve that failed the test, although it was better after the kit. It held more vacuum, and the surging was A LOT less noticeable. That was my reasoning for suspecting that valve. I contacted Sonnax and they said the reason for the price ($700) on the tool was because there needs to be a .0004 clearance between the valve and the bore. I am in the process of finding out if someone can just measure the valve and bore it for me. I know some people that do machine work on jet engines that might be able to do it for me. For all the parts, what they fix, and what areas they suggest for vacuum testing, check out the instructions for the zip kit that they have on their website. Almost ALL of the areas I checked had leakage of varying degrees.
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  #32  
Old 12-14-2014, 02:13 PM
meangreen94z meangreen94z is offline
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Well I did the zip kit as well yesterday, and went ahead and replaced the EDS solenoids while I was at it. It took about 10 miles of driving at various speeds to readapt after clearing the adaptations. The 35-40mph surge is completely gone(to this point) and the transmission shifts perfectly.

A point of clarification for the above poster. The check balls are in the top half of the valvebody as stated, but the top half is on the bottom when you remove the assembly bolts(on a table). So don't flip it over after removing the bolts. Even if you make that mistake, the bores in the passages are distinct for the check balls. If you try to place them anywhere else they won't be able to move freely.

Make sure to get the separator plate number off and order a new one in advance. Despite Sonnax's claims otherwise, it's guaranteed the gasket material will separate upon disassembly.
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  #33  
Old 05-10-2015, 07:33 AM
A B Able Truck's Avatar
A B Able Truck A B Able Truck is offline
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chris0003 & meangreen94z - How are your transmissions working after your repair?? Would you have done anything differently or in addition to?

I'm resurrecting this thread because my wife experienced a limp mode yesterday. (May need Viagra)
But, I will be dropping my valve body to rebuild and any helpful tips would be greatly appreciated.
I'll also read thru Schpenxel's solenoid thread

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  #34  
Old 05-10-2015, 08:49 AM
Caesonia Caesonia is online now
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chrisb0003 View Post
In 5th gear cruising (not accelerating or going up or down a hill) at 35+mph, it will start to buck. Like it wants to shift but changes its mind, every couple of seconds like clockwork. I tried it in sport mode, manual mode, and regular mode and its always 5th gear only. When in manual with 5th gear selected, the rpm doesn't matter it will always do it when just cruising. Seems less harsh when you first start the car after it has been sitting over night. Also when it is cold outside.

I did have all the updates done including the transmission update (my buddy at the dealership did it for me (cost me lunch, lol), and it took a good 4 hours to program everything!). Every once in a while if I am slowing down to almost a stop, then hit the gas real quick it will slam pretty hard still even after the updates...

Chris
Chris,

I get one of the hunting on my car, and it's smooth as can be coming to a stop. But if I almost stop, and step on the gas, it's like it slips and then bumps into gear. Because it doesn't do it from a stop, and it has a bit of forward momentum, I am never sure if it's just dropped to first, and is going into second, or if it's really a slip. It doesn't do it all the time, but it makes me a little uncomfortable jumping on it sometimes. I also noticed that the car has gotten back into it's habit of being slow to shift out of park, especially on a hill. There is also a slight delay going from reverse to drive, again on a hill.

The car did go in under warranty and had a software update which made it better, but it is back again. The fluid level was checked, and the condition. Because it seems related to hills, I think this is indicative of some sort of a problem coming down the pike at me, but I am honestly quite sure what to think. My truck has a solenoid valve body and does something similar from reverse, but not any of the other similar symptoms.

My Indy friend who works on these says he doesn't notice anything to worry about, and change the fluid when it is out of the BMW, unless I have them do it. That way they have all the documentation for the car. He said he ahs gotten them to good will things often when it was out of warranty when the clear documentation was on hand, and with the work done at BMW.

Anyways, seeing stuff like this does worry me, but I figure by being aggressive it can be averted. Curious about your symptoms.
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  #35  
Old 05-10-2015, 07:41 PM
meangreen94z meangreen94z is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by A B Able Truck View Post
chris0003 & meangreen94z - How are your transmissions working after your repair?? Would you have done anything differently or in addition to?

I'm resurrecting this thread because my wife experienced a limp mode yesterday. (May need Viagra)
But, I will be dropping my valve body to rebuild and any helpful tips would be greatly appreciated.
I'll also read thru Schpenxel's solenoid thread

***
I would do both the zip kit and solenoids. Don't bother buying the sonnax vacuum plate test tool like I did, just make sure you don't cut/split the o-rings when installing the zip kit.

It's 5-6 months later and it's still shifting like new or better.
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  #36  
Old 05-10-2015, 07:43 PM
meangreen94z meangreen94z is offline
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.......Also make sure to use new fluid
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  #37  
Old 05-20-2015, 05:22 AM
chrisb0003 chrisb0003 is offline
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My transmission is working great now. The longer I drove it, the better it got. Now I can't make it do the surging problem at all, even when I try. Mine does do the thing where if you don't come to a complete stop, then hit the gas, it will slam into gear HARD. I had the software update done and it is harder to get it to do it. The only time it will do it is if I try. Normal driving doesn't cause it after the update. My buddy is a BMW tech and he said a lot of the older 5 series do that and you just have to give it time to shift down before you nail the gas. He said I wasn't giving it a chance to figure out what I was doing so it just slams full pressure into first. I would definitely recommend the ZIP kit to anyone having shifting problems. Then clear adaptations in the computer and drive it. I didn't replace any solenoids; only the kit and the fluid in the pan. I might have drained a couple quarts after driving it and refilled with fresh fluid for a little bit of a flush, but nothing like a full fluid flush. The only other problem is it takes a second for reverse to engage after selecting it. My buddy said that's common on those cars also and to his knowledge they haven't come back needing transmissions. Of course the dealership just replaces them; they don't rebuild them, so I don't know how many people would invest as much money as their car is worth (almost) in having the dealership put a transmission in.
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