BimmerFest BMW Forum banner

DSC 4x4 Inactive light

161K views 41 replies 19 participants last post by  lapero2000 
#1 ·
I've got a 2005 X5 4.4 and the DSC Inactive light recently came on (no other lights). When it comes on, it just pops up and stays on for the remainder of the ride. When I restart the car again the light is off. There are no noises and nothing feels unusual about the drive. After reading about wheel speed sensors I thought that maybe one was off because of tire pressure. I filled the tires and didnt see the light for about a week or so. It popped back up today. I took it to the shop and they say they are getting a Transfer Case code when running a diagnostic. I'm a little skeptical. I want to make sure it's not just the sensors or alignment throwing a false code or something like that before I drop $3200. Any ideas or suggestions?
 
#4 ·
DSC 4X4 Light on

i experienced that problem on the 2006 X5 4.4i. The light would come on and off on its own, then there was the Trans Failsafe Programme warning light after a couple of months. After replacing two batteries in two months (second one for free), it turned out my problem was the alternator. Since replacing that baby, i havent had that problem....
 
#8 ·
In my situation the brushes were fine upon disassembly. The voltage regulator itself was the problem. At first I just had the 4x4 dsc light on; then other lights would come on periodically in the brake system.
 
#11 ·
In your case, the ABS is kicking in because it sense a wheel that is not rotating (probably due to a bad wheel sensor). Some time it's not good to hi-jack another person thread because most of the answer is directed toward the original poster.

If you have a problem, just start your own thread.
 
#14 ·
Hey Guys,

I dont know if anyone will answer this b/c its an old post but I had a question. My check brake linings warning came on (along with the brake light) about 2 weeks ago. Last Wed night my 4x4 light came on. I reset it and it went off but came back on later that night so I reset it again. Thursday morning I got in the car and the light was off so I drive to work but when I turn the car back on to drive home the light came back on and has not gone off. I am trying to get the code pulled by a local shop but could the 4x4 light come on b/c I need new brake pads? Should I replace the pads first and see what happens?

Thanks
 
#29 ·
I am having EXACT same issue

Please tell me what was wrong with your car to cause this. I had a brake light and brake linings light come on along with 4x4. The brake and brake linings light turned off but I am still getting the intermittent 4x4 light. Please let me know what was wrong. I can't figure it out.

Hey Guys,

I dont know if anyone will answer this b/c its an old post but I had a question. My check brake linings warning came on (along with the brake light) about 2 weeks ago. Last Wed night my 4x4 light came on. I reset it and it went off but came back on later that night so I reset it again. Thursday morning I got in the car and the light was off so I drive to work but when I turn the car back on to drive home the light came back on and has not gone off. I am trying to get the code pulled by a local shop but could the 4x4 light come on b/c I need new brake pads? Should I replace the pads first and see what happens?

Thanks
 
#15 ·
I've got the answer for what I believe will cover all AWD BMW models. I've spent two days troubleshooting to get this information so please read it before asking me any questions. If you like the information below and would like to donate $5 for my time please click here



Problem: While Bluebee, 540iman and others resolved the practical test for car series 5 and 3, similar methods have not been successful on X5. For test procedure click here

Hypothesis: Rear wheel drive vehicles do not use the same Module as the AWD BMW's. Resistance testing at all wheels resulted in very similar results (984-1013) with two higher resistances in the rear in one direction and (672-687) in the others. (I used a craftsman DMM set to 2MegaOhms.) If same results could be found in any 4 combinations, then those would be the wheel sensors. Disconnecting the sensors at the wheel and retesting at the module should reveal which circuits are for what wheels.

Test: (BMW X5 2002 126xxx) Resistance testing at both, wheels and Female adapter for control module had SIX probable continuity links. According to this picture the following was found to have possible circuit: (13-14 / 28-12 / 30-31 / 15-16 / 36-19 / 42-25). Then I tested those circuits with a single wheel sensor off at a time and gathered the following.
Results:



Please test the following circuits and advise if it worked for you. I will point out that "Diode" mode did not work for me, only resistance.

Open the hood and remove the air box from the driver side. You will find the ABS Module

Disconnect the ABS Harness Module

And with A DMM test the following circuits.

Test = Resistance = Speculated Location
13-14 = 700-1027 = Left Rear
28-12 = 704-1007 = Left Front
30-14 = 697-1033 = Right Rear
36-19 = 683-979 = Right Front


If any of them fail go to THAT wheel sensor and test it at the wheel sensor harness. If it fails then replace that sensor. ($100)

If none of them fail remove the ABS Module and send it in for an overhaul (About $300) I sent mine to BBA Reman. It's a little more expensive but people have said it is better.
 
#16 · (Edited)
Hello all,

Having all the same electrical problems, battery light, yellow 4x4 light. I did pull the alternator (140 amps) and had it bench checked at my local parts store which it passed. Reinstalled and the battery light came back on the next day. My battery showed 11.11 volts upon static check and 13.60 volts running. I decided to replace the battery as my 2004 still had what I believe to be the original BMW unit installed. Battery Light stayed on. Now I'm getting mad. What else can I check to trouble shoot this issue? Is a bench check done at the parts store looking for the correct faults for this type of alternator? Someone mentioned the voltage regulator above, is that an internal part of the alternator? Ugh!
 
#17 ·
When the battery was replaced, was it connected to a BMW battery conditioner/tester to realign the charging cycles for the new battery ?
My retired 02 X5 could not just replace out the battery, it had to be connected to a BMW analyzer/charger to "reset" the charging cycle from the ECU.
 
#19 ·
Personally, I dont trust the testing done at the parts store, places like Autozone, etc. I have heard that the newer models need to be "told" they have a new battery (like the E90). I have replaced the battery on my wife's 01 X5 and the alternator once (at 130kmiles). I've never heard or read anywhere that the charging cycle needs to be reset. I've looked over the coding options and it doesnt even appear there is one to reset.
 
#20 ·
Well the car had a total electrical shut down :( looks like I will replace the alternator after all. This battery thing has me scratching my head too. If the battery isn't matched up to the car does that mean it will not charge? That has to be the most retarded thing that could be engineered in a car that I can think of. It was changed at a very reputable tire and battery shop, they better have had their act together.
 
#21 ·
As mentioned, I think it's a myth that an E53 has to be coded to accept a new battery.

The later models may have an AGM battery (absorbed glass mat) that could require coding to adapt the charge rate, but not an E53.

When my alt died, the X5 would run for about 5 miles on a full battery charge, then all manner of electrical weirdness ensued. I measured the alt output at idle and it was 13.8volts which seemed normal, but it wouldn't charge the battery.

Don't know which X5 you have, but the 3.0i had several alternators, a Bosch and at least two different Valeos (a 120 amp and a 140amp depending on the vehicles options).


Sent from BimmerApp mobile app
 
#22 ·
I spoke to the mechanic who I have used for past issues I didn't feel like tackling myself and he said I needed to check the amps at the battery when it was running (140 amps) but I never got the chance. I'll be busy tomorrow after work. Thanks for your help, Scott. I'll post my outcome... My replacement is a Bosch, which I understand to be better than the Valeo.
 
#23 ·
Just FYI... I think the pulley is different Bosch to Valeo. I bought a set of alloy drive pulleys from Turner Motorsport and they wanted to know which brand alt I had to ensure they sent the right one. I suspect the entire assy is interchangeable, so if the replacement Bosch came with a pulley, you're probably fine.

If it didn't, I doubt the Valeo pulley is going to fit onto the Bosch alt.
 
#24 ·
Installed new alternator and it started right up. Drove it for half an hour and shut it off, started back up no problem so I know the battery charged. Did the spin the wheel all the way to the left and all the way to the right and the 4x4 light went out and didn't come back on. Wife is back on the road!

Of note, the alternator was a little different but everything lined up.

Great info here, thanks all!


Sent from BimmerApp mobile app
 
#25 ·
Installed new alternator and it started right up. Drove it for half an hour and shut it off, started back up no problem so I know the battery charged. Did the spin the wheel all the way to the left and all the way to the right and the 4x4 light went out and didn't come back on. Wife is back on the road!

Of note, the alternator was a little different but everything lined up.

Great info here, thanks all!

Sent from BimmerApp mobile app
:thumbup:

You did replace your belts, right? :stickpoke
 
#31 ·
As I recall my issue was a faulty alternator. It eventually failed and the 4x4 light went out. I do not know how it was related to the alternator but no problems since.
 
#32 ·
4x4 light fixed

So I just wanted to revisit this because people usually fix their cars and never revisit to share the solution. I ran a diagnostic through an Autel scanner that gave me a trouble code for vtg oil wear (transfer case) but also a steering angle sensor came up with it. I just wanted to add a note that the intermittent 4 x 4 light started at 124,000 miles and was solid by 124,200 miles. I'm not sure if this sensor is programmed by mileage. ....so here it is. Long story short. I changed The fluid in the transfer case and the light remained on. I changed the steering angle sensor and the light still remained on. I took it to my local shop, Southwest Bimmers, here in Las Vegas Nevada and they did the coding for the new sensor and cleared the transfer case oil where sensor code and the light has remained off. The steering angle sensor was $150 from eEuroparts and the coding session was just over $100.
 
#33 ·
and that fixed it? I am having the same type of problem. Nothing feels weird, the 4x4 light comes on, then when I get back in the car, it is no longer on. Intermittent too. Sometimes I drive it and it does not come on, sometimes it does. I do have a steering angle sensor code, too.

Thanks
 
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top