BimmerFest BMW Forum banner

2011 BMW X5 35 Premium Pricing

4K views 7 replies 6 participants last post by  ard 
#1 ·
Hello, I am new here and this is going to be my first post.
I live in Chicago(here tax is 9.25%:thumbdwn:)
I test drove my friend's 2009 X5 and i fell in love with it, so I decided to get X5.

I visited dealer to test drive, but they said they dont have any 2011 X5 and I have to order one and I am going to order X5 35 Premium tomorrow (Here seems like most of people order diesel not a gasoline model. any reason? my friend's X5 was gasoline model so i have never tried diesel one)

Problem is I have never experienced new car deal especially premium brand makes me more nervous. I have no idea how much i should get discount. I stopped by some dealers in Chicago and Indiana. They said, it is special order, so they cannot give me a lot of discount. I searched here about 2011 pricing. It looks like dealer invoice over $500 is a good deal. am i right? I am good at negotiating at all:bawling: plz give me some advices.

Thank you everyone in advance.

ps. Could you tell me any good(??) BMW dealer near Chicago?
 
See less See more
#2 ·
Ready to bend over?

500-1200 over 'true cost" is a reasonable deal.

WHy not contact a few of the BMW dealers that are Sponsors here? They might be a bit easier to approach.

If you drop in to a dealership, you are talking to front line sales guys- they sense your uncertainty and there is no reason to give you a good price. Do your research, know exactly which it should cost. negotiate from that position. (It isn't a 'special order'... just an order)

A
 
#3 ·
It looks like dealer invoice over $500 is a good deal.
I just went through this. Highly recommend http://www.fool.com/car/car.htm. Step 12 is the key, specifically, the "CAN YOU BEAT THIS" paragraph. This is when dealers give you their actual selling price.

In my search, there was no such thing as "dealer invoice over $500", or I should say, there were 8 different "dealer invoices" (one for each dealer). Even though I presented the same BMW line item wholesale invoice to each, all but one, had a different bottom line. For example, when I proposed an offer of "dealer invoice" of $XX plus $500, I would get a response of "we will match $500 over our dealer invoice"...the operative word is 'our' dealer invoice (and not the invoice price $XX I provided). In doing so, even though the jargon was similar, there was no committment to a specific price....though it seemed like it.

Then there are dealer doc fees. Oddly, no dealer considered this a component of the price when purchasing the car. There can be huge differences in doc fees, and I tried, unsuccessfully, to negotiate these fees.

So, it boils down to this: There is the dealer selling price of the car + doc fees + sales tax/plates. When negotiating, use the "dealer selling price of the car + doc fees" approach. Let the dealers worry about how they bundle the car cost, maco, training, destination, markup, profit, commission, % discount off MSRP or whatever other fancy algorithm they come up with. You're concerned with the bottomline cost. Get that selling price and get the doc fees, then you can see the actual deal you are getting.

At least for me, Invoice + $500 was a complete waste of time.
 
#5 ·
At least for me, Invoice + $500 was a complete waste of time.
T
So, it is better to negotiate the final OTD price. It should be a relatively straightforward exercise to add the state sales tax, registration and inspection fees. I would avoid dealers that resort to these extra useless addons. The better ones stick to $xxx/$xxxx over invoice. Another thing is to be patient and consider several dealers. .
See, and for me the opposite was true.

I just negotiated 'profit over published invoice' (with me keeping the eco)

All the other BS 'fees" that get added in are, in fact, 'profit'. If you have a salesman that will play games like that, you need to smoke that out at first.

Just add in "plus any fees or taxes mandated by any governmental agency". At the end of the day, I was OK with paying them $45 to pay the sales tax and send in the registration paperwork.

All depends on the dealer and the buyer.

GL

A
 
#4 ·
The phrase you are looking for is "out the door price" or OTD. Even though the $xxx above invoice may meet your objective, the final OTD can include "special charges" that will push up the final price. "Doc fee" is one such charge. There can be others too - famous ones being what are called "dealer add-ons". These are things like "paint protection", "paint sealant", and "VIN etching" etc.

So, it is better to negotiate the final OTD price. It should be a relatively straightforward exercise to add the state sales tax, registration and inspection fees. I would avoid dealers that resort to these extra useless addons. The better ones stick to $xxx/$xxxx over invoice. Another thing is to be patient and consider several dealers. PC delivery affords BMW buyers to pick up at SC - from what I read here this is a great experience. This allows you to consider any dealer from the whole country! Make that trip a family/personal vacation and enjoy it. If you do not like that drive, consider dealers that are away from larger metropolitan areas - still close to where you live. Use the forums here to find out experiences or references for a particular dealership/CA.

If you do not wish to negotiate, you can use buying services - ZAG.com, Costco etc. Keep in mind that, that may not get you the best deal always.
 
#6 · (Edited)
Problem for order X5 2011

I put $1000 deposit for my X5 2011 on Dec 06, 2010, and my CA told me that it will take from 6 to 8weeks or max 10 weeks the car will deliver. I waited until Feb 08, and contacted my sale man, I told him that I need the production Id #, and I wanted to know when i will receive it , after they checked and he said that my ordered still l need to wait, and he can't provide me production id. I told him if I need to wait that long then my $2500 rebate can't apply on my purchase because they only could hold up to 90 days( according what they'd told me). So they said that IF I still want the car they will continue to oder and if it go over than 90 days then I have to loose that deal. My question is, does any out there have the same problem as mine and what should I do ? I really need your advice. Thanks
 
#7 ·
Sounds like the dealer never took one of their production slots and modified it for your order, which is typically what they do when you order a car. If they had, you would have a production ID as well as a forecast build week.

Bad news is you will loose the $2,500 holiday cash unless you take delivery before the lock expires (typically 90 days), so you might be limited to something the dealer already has in stock or on order. I'd ask the dealer to make up some of the difference, maybe sell you the car for just over invoice if they really did screw it up.

The good news is they are cutting 35i and 50i production over to 2012's on April 1 (not sure about the 35d), so if you don't mind waiting a few weeks more, you can get a 2012 instead of a 2011. But I'd be careful with your dealer and salesperson... It sounds like they were not on the ball with your previous order.
 
#8 ·
Find a new dealer, the old one screwed you royally.
 
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top