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BMW X5 DSC/ABS and Amber Brake Light

101K views 26 replies 13 participants last post by  XeroPhane 
#1 ·
I am new on Bimmerfest forum, just to say thanks for all your threads for this way I can understand the source of my BMW X5 three amber lights. Thanks in special to Bluebee!

Thanks,

Car1951
 
#2 ·
I am new on Bimmerfest forum, just to say thanks for all your threads for this way I can understand the source of my BMW X5 three amber lights. Thanks in special to Bluebee!
You're quite welcome.

Here's the advice we give to anyone who asks about the 3 amber lights.
....

(All this information is from teaming up with Bill (540iman) and gathering additional details from BlackBMWs, BMW_n00b13, TheStig, Edgy36-39, Max_VQ, PharoE39, freewilly, BAMF, and others).

Three solid yellow ABS/Brake/DSC lights almost always indicates a classic BMW problem:
1. Go to the first thread in the E39 forums (the VERY best of E39 Links)
2. Search for ABS (you'll find this post)
3. Click on this canonical summary in that post (in addition, see Bill's 'logic' of testing ABS sensors).
Note: The lights may come on all at once, or one at a time, and they may be intermittent, and in the beginning they may go out when you restart the car but come back; eventually they become lit solid all the time. It's all the same problem when you have the ABS Brake DSC trifecta!

Luckily, almost always, resolution is quick, simple, and reasonably inexpensive:
- Quick: In a half hour with a DMM, you'll know exactly what components failed;
- Simple: Removal of speed sensors (<$100 each) and/or the ABS control module (<$500 new) is a ten-minute job each;
- Cheap: My ABS control module rebuild cost me $150 USD, in toto, including tax & shipping (most people report successful rebuilds under $300).

In summary, the flow-chart procedure to follow (summarized from this thread) is:
a. Open the hood, disconnect the ABS control module harness & check the four wheel speed sensors with a DMM;
b. If any wheel speed sensor tests bad, doublecheck at the appropriate wheel; replace the bad one with an OE sensor (<$100, rarely more than one!);
c. If all four speed sensors are good, simply send your ABS control module to BBA/MM/ATE (recommended in that order) for a rebuild ($300-$150 in toto);
d. If the rebuilder can't repair your module (takes about 5 days overall), buy a new module ($480 from Jared at EACTuning) & have the VIN recoded at the stealer (about $120).

In almost all (if not all) ABS, Brake, & DSC light trifecta situations, it's that simple!

BTW, while your ABS control module is out of the car (about 5 days), the following anomalies may occur:
- Brake/DSC/ABS trifecta solid yellow lights (on the instrument cluster)
- Service Engine Soon (SES) solid yellow light lit (on the instrument cluster)
- No ABS (upon hard braking under low-traction conditions)
- No traction control (DSC or ASC on lateral action)
- No speedometer (use a portable GPS navigation unit if you're worried about that)
- No odometer (again, use a portable GPS unit if this bothers you)
- No tripmeter (use a portable GPS unit if it's a worry to you)
- No cruise control
- OBDII diagnostic trouble code DTC P0500, i.e., bad speed sensor (clear by driving or with an OBDII scanner)
- No possibility of passing (California at least) smog inspections (until you replace the ABS control module & clear the DTC)
- No speed-sensitive automatic door locks (if enabled at the stealer)
- No GPS (if you have navigation)
- No mileage calculations on the instrument cluster
- No fuel consumption calculations on the instrument cluster
- No range indications on the instrument cluster
- No speed-sensitive radio (if equipped)
- No speed-sensitive wipers (if equipped)
- Erratic fuel gauge (especially when near empty, so keep the tank at greater than 3/4 at all times)
- Erratic transmission shifting (if automatic; if it bothers you, switch to manual shifting)

SUMMARY:
The problem is usually a single wheel sensor goes bad (wires or the <$100 sensor), or the ABS control module goes bad (a steel resistance-welded wire lifts off its bond pad, Bill kindly ran a full autopsy here). Debugging is best done with a DMM; an OBDII scanner can ONLY find "communication errors", i.e., it cannot tell a bad speed or pressure sensor from a bad ABS control module and will often report the wrong problem because it isn't inserted BETWEEN the ABS control module and the various sensors (see extensive reports by 540iman on this). The ABS control module costs ~$150 to $300 to rebuild, ~$500 to replace; if you put anything back on other than your original ABS control module, the VIN will need to be recoded (15 minutes with a GT-1 or Autologic or similar; impossible otherwise). You'll need to clear your OBDII DTC codes after you fix everything if you plan on passing smog tests that week (ask me how I know). If you need to replace a speed sensor, don't go aftermarket; get as close to OE as possible.

Before you send your ABS control module out for rebuilding, please consider opening it up first, post pictures to Bill's ABS autopsy thread (the rebuilders say they work on previously opened ABS control modules all the time). If you fix the broken wire, post that to the thread as a success story!
 
#3 ·
Not to beat a dead horse but..

X5 2002

I'm getting no continuity at the ABS CONNECTOR. Infinite Resistance in 2MOhms, and Diode setting.

checked at each wheel and got Infinite Resistence on Diode and

each direction/2Mohms
RR
979-683

LR
1013-687

RF
1005-672

LF
984-6

I also took better pictures of the wheel sensors I'll post later. Thoughts?
 
#4 ·
I am in the same boat with my wifes 2002 X5 4.4 the trifect of lights is on ALWAYS even if I reset the ecu via peake tool, even if I DC the battery, as soon as it starts the brake light is on in amber and the DSC triangle and the ABS light. They never go off, they never change.

I did front cv joints about 6 months ago and everything was fine after that, she drove the car for about 3000 miles with zero issues, my wife got a check pad lining light about a month ago and I changed the front pads and sensor (I had these from a previous order when I ordered oil), I also ordered new front rotors and rear pads and a new rear sensor and ended up changing those about a week after the front pads. Between the time of the front pads being changed and the rear pads and front rotors the trifect of lights came on and has never turned off.

Before people tell me what to do let me list what I have done. I have also researched this for the last week with no resolution and I have done almost all of the test outlined by Bluebee and the great write up that he compiled. Thank you.

What I have done:
Replaced front pads and rotors
Replaced rear pads (Rotors are almost new at less than a year old)
Repalced both wear sensors Driver front and Passenger Rear
Cleaned all 4 wheel speed sensors and reinstalled
Checked Diode voltage drop across all 4 wheel speed sensors (results will be discussed below)
Checked Tire Pressues
Checked and topped up brake fluid
Attempted to pull codes via peake tool (this will be discussed later)
Reset ECU
DC'ed Battery
Tested Alternator and battery voltage
Checked fuses
Turned wheel lock to lock
Many Test Drives

First off I find it very strange that I have no codes either current or stored in the ECU when read with the peake tool. I would think that there would be something flagging either the wheel speed sensor or the ABS module if something was not working correctly, SO far I have had ZERO codes related to ABS, brakes or anything, no codes none at all.

Second I am left thinking that this is an electrical problem since the lights are always on and nothing ever makes them turn off. Not a reset not a battery DC nothing, they are always on. I have read that when the problem is resolved that the lights turn off without a reset or a battery DC, I read one place that the dealer must reset the trifect light? Is that true?

Also a side question but when the pads or rotors become thinner than recommended does this either throw a code or display a message other than the brake pad sensor wearing, so if I have gone past my min thickness on say front rotors, and my pads are almost worn out but not quite triggering the sensor does the computer or abs system know that it is a problem or is the only trigger at that point low fluid level since the extra space would be taken up by the pistons on the calipers moving further out (toward each other)

I am left with taking the car to the stealer or an indy that can hook it up to a GT1, will this pull codes that I am not seeing with my peake tool? I have heard some people state that this led them directly to the problem? I have yet to read of anyone who has all three lights on from start up with no codes... any input would be appreciated, I am over an hour from the nearest GT1 so driving it that far and paying someone to code pull to tell me exactly what i know now (which is very little) would be pointless...

I am thankful that these forums exist and that enthusiasts support one another by posting info but it is a double edged sword as every single person has a unique problem, yes you can use the past experience to help narrow it down to perhaps a specific area but at this point I feel like i am guessing at what it really is based on the situation i am in and I don't feel like just throwing parts at it to hope I change the right part...

I have done all of the voltage and diode voltage drop tests with what I would consider strange results, but they all read the same I am not getting a bad reading from one specific wheel sensor and I have no odo, speedo, gas gauge, cruise control problems. Everything functions perfectly except the 3 lights are always on.

Is there any indy shop in the Inland Empire that has a GT1 that can pull codes for me…. I need to get this resolved before it snows….
 
#5 ·
I couldn't get results from the control module as I mentioned before. I believe that the reason is there were two control modules used on the X5 for this model. "Bosch" and "ATE." The problem with the diode test might be in the different locations in the module itself.

I went to the Wheel sensors themselves and found no faults so I figured it was the ABS Control Module itself. For my Bosch @ BBA Reman. It's $299+shipping for Bosch and $250 for the ATE.

I think the problem is you are trying to pull codes.


As much as we would like to say computers save us time... they have faults. They can read information HOWEVER they can not troubleshoot that information. :dunno:


I've spent WAY too much time reading the page posted earlier by Bluebee (SUPER GRATEFUL) which was fantastic and complicated. What it comes down to is this. If 90% of the time it's either the wheel sensors or the control module. AND you have ruled out the wheel sensors, fix or replace the control module. It's not absolute but it's close to it.
 
#6 ·
I was unable to ever get the correct voltage drop reading with the diode test on my dmm, 3 other people had the same issue on bluebees thread and so far as I have read no one has addressed it, I can't believe that all 4 are bad as I have tested each one individually and still get open circuit both ways, I tested the dmm on a diode and it showed the appropriate drop, not sure what else could be wrong.

However it looks like Iam going to shell out the money to send the abs module out and see if that solves the problem, at this point Icannot test or eeliminate anything else so time to throw parts at it I guess.

Let us know how it goes.
 
#7 ·
Did you check continuity at the wheel sensors. I did get a reading on those.

I'm 95% sure our modules are not like theirs. We have to figure out which circuits are pairs first, then identify which circuits belong to which sensors.

Sent from my HTC Sensation 4G using BimmerApp mobile app
 
#13 · (Edited)
I've got the answer for what I believe will cover all AWD BMW models. I've spent two days troubleshooting to get this information so please read it before asking me any questions. If you like the information below and would like to donate $5 for my time please click here



Problem: While Bluebee, 540iman and others resolved the practical test for car series 5 and 3, similar methods have not been successful on X5. For test procedure click here

Hypothesis: Rear wheel drive vehicles do not use the same Module as the AWD BMW's. Resistance testing at all wheels resulted in very similar results (984-1013) with two higher resistances in the rear in one direction and (672-687) in the others. (I used a craftsman DMM set to 2MegaOhms.) If same results could be found in any 4 combinations, then those would be the wheel sensors. Disconnecting the sensors at the wheel and retesting at the module should reveal which circuits are for what wheels.

Test: (BMW X5 2002 126xxx) Resistance testing at both, wheels and Female adapter for control module had SIX probable continuity links. According to this picture the following was found to have possible circuit: (13-14 / 28-12 / 30-31 / 15-16 / 36-19 / 42-25). Then I tested those circuits with a single wheel sensor off at a time and gathered the following.
Results:



Please test the following circuits and advise if it worked for you. I will point out that "Diode" mode did not work for me, only resistance.

Open the hood and remove the air box from the driver side. You will find the ABS Module

Disconnect the ABS Harness Module

And with A DMM test the following circuits.

Test = Resistance = Speculated Location
13-14 = 700-1027 = Left Rear
28-12 = 704-1007 = Left Front
30-14 = 697-1033 = Right Rear
36-19 = 683-979 = Right Front


If any of them fail go to THAT wheel sensor and test it at the wheel sensor harness. If it fails then replace that sensor. ($100)

If none of them fail remove the ABS Module and send it in for an overhaul (About $300) I sent mine to BBA Reman. It's a little more expensive but people have said it is better.
 
#14 ·
Trifecta of lights

Hello everyone,

new to the site. i have been searching, reading all these posts about the Trifecta of lights. before i go ahead and replace or rebuild my ABS module i just want to post my issue and some things that have occurred. so i have an 01 X5 4.4, for the past 3 years i have been on 22 inch rims with 285 45 22 on the rear and 275 45 22 on the front. Everything was fine never had any issues with any lights or sensors. about two weeks ago i sent those same rims to get powder coated, i put on my stock 19 inch rims and yet again everything was fine. get my 22's put back on and as am driving away from the shop i get the trifecta. Now here is the weird thing or maybe not. so the lights do go off when car is off, comes back on when i drive for a block or two however if i turn the car on and press the DSC button the ABS and Brake lights on the dashboard do not come up only the DSC light on the dashboard turns on rightfully so. i am going to put my stock rims back on this weekend to see if the trifecta still comes up. i have tried turning the steering wheel left to right and nothing. Any insight will be helpful.
 
#15 · (Edited)
Bmw X5 Abs sensor Wires

Hi to everyone.
I had the same problem (trifecta) to my car e53 model 10/2001.
I checked all the wires from the sensors back to the abs module with part number 0265950067
The results are the following.
Front left sensor has a Red and Blue red wire the Red wire goes to pin 12 and is the plus and the blue red goes to pin 28 and is ground
Front right sensor has yellow and blue yellow wire the yellow wire goes to pin 16 and is plus and the blue yellow goes to pin 15 and is the ground
Rear left sensor has white and blue white wire the white wire goes to pin 14 and is plus and the blue white goes to pin 13 and is minus
Rear right sensor has green and blue green wire the green goes to pin 31 is the plus and the blue green to pin 30 is the ground.

FL RED/BLUE-RED 12+/28-
FR YELLOW/BLUE-YELLOW 16+/15-
RL WHITE/BLUE-WHITE 14+/13-
RR GREEN/BLUE-GREEN 31+/30-

After a resistance test on the sensors the rear sensors had 310K plus to minus and 400K minus to plus
And the front sensors had 300K plus to minus and 400K minus to plus
 
#16 ·
in AJR1982 post I see that he uses the number 14 pin for both the left rear and the right rear wheel speed sensors.
I see that jimbardis in his post just uses the number 14 pin for the left rear sensor.. I think that maybe more correct however it shows a total open in both directions..
 
#17 ·
I did check the continuity. I had to in order to figure out which pins went to which sensors since so much of the info I was getting was conflicting.
That brings up another subject real quick... Where can I get a wire diagram of my ABS/DSC system? I have wasted hours looking to no avail.

The results of my continuity checking are.

pin 29 goes to the left rear sensor the white wire and has 29 ohms resistance
pin 13 goes to the left rear sensor the blue wire with white stripe and has 29 ohms resistance

pin 14 goes to the right rear sensor and is a brown wire and has 32 ohms resistance
pin 31 goes to the right rear sensor and is the black wire and has 44 ohms resistance..

pin 28 goes to the left front and is the blue with red stripe wire and has 8 ohms resistance
pin 12 goes to the left front and is a red wire with 7 ohms

pin 15 goes to the right front and blue with yellow stripe with 10 ohms
pin 16 goes to the right front and yellow with 12 ohms

I also checked to make sure none of the wires were shorting to ground.

I was surprised the resistance was so high on these wires are they not just copper wires. I would have expected more like 3 ohms max.
could this be part of my problem?

all of my sensors tested about the same.. they showed aprox 600k ohms in one direction and then about 900k ohms in the other direction.

I have removed the module now but do not see anything obvious with it.
I am about to look for the threads on checking it out.
 
#18 ·
Just registered but not new to the forums they have been usedful

Just wanted to say that I bought a 2001 X5 4.4 where there was fault codes P1747, had engine fail mode and trans fail mode or "limp mode" disconnected to the ABS module and all went away. Sending the ABS module for rebuilt tomorrow to BBA manufacturing. The previous owner that he knew what he was doing but did not now cleaning his mess up.
 
#19 ·
Same kind of problem but different lights...

So I have a 2003 x5 4.4l and I'm getting a yellow ABS, Yellow Traction control and a RED brake light. The brake light will sometimes flash yellow or be delayed by 1/2 sec when I turn the key on but it always goes to RED. I also have no speedometer. All of this happened all at once yesterday. I have not read EVERYTHING on this problem but most of what I read is related to all the lights being yellow. I have seen a few people mention the red light but only seems to be on with low brake shoes. My shoes are low but I don't think they are ready to be replaced yet and I can't see how a low brake shoe is going to cause all of the above. I'm in a tight spot because I don't have much time, money, or desire for this car. It has been a basket case from day one and I wish I never bought it. I will NEVER buy a BMW again! :mad: So with that said I need to get this problem, along with many other problems fixed and cheap and as fast as I can so I can sell this POS and clear my loan and move on. :cry: With the red light do I continue down the same path as those with all yellow lights? I have swapped both rear speed sensors and checked the ABS module connector with no change in symptoms. My model has the ABS module located under the coolant tank on the left (drivers) side of the engine. I understand that's a better place for the module but it is a pain to get to to work on it. Any help is greatly appreciated!!!!!!!!! :thumbup:
Thanks,
Eric
 
#21 ·
So I have a 2003 x5 4.4l and I'm getting a yellow ABS, Yellow Traction control and a RED brake light. The brake light will sometimes flash yellow or be delayed by 1/2 sec when I turn the key on but it always goes to RED. I also have no speedometer. All of this happened all at once yesterday. I have not read EVERYTHING on this problem but most of what I read is related to all the lights being yellow. I have seen a few people mention the red light but only seems to be on with low brake shoes. My shoes are low but I don't think they are ready to be replaced yet and I can't see how a low brake shoe is going to cause all of the above. I'm in a tight spot because I don't have much time, money, or desire for this car. It has been a basket case from day one and I wish I never bought it. I will NEVER buy a BMW again! :mad: So with that said I need to get this problem, along with many other problems fixed and cheap and as fast as I can so I can sell this POS and clear my loan and move on. :cry: With the red light do I continue down the same path as those with all yellow lights? I have swapped both rear speed sensors and checked the ABS module connector with no change in symptoms. My model has the ABS module located under the coolant tank on the left (drivers) side of the engine. I understand that's a better place for the module but it is a pain to get to to work on it. Any help is greatly appreciated!!!!!!!!! :thumbup:
Thanks,
Eric
Have you had the codes read?
 
#24 ·
Yeah, not much interest in buying a scanner for a vehicle I will NEVER own again and I'm trying to duck tape together to dump. I'm sure having the scanner would be a necessary tool for these cars as they are a nightmare to diagnose and poorly designed but I will never own one again. Maybe I could throw it in on the sale of the car as they will need it for sure. Nobody has any experience with the trifecta with a "red" brake light? I guess I could tear the module apart and see if there is the common broken wire. I just don't have spare time or money laying around right now and was hoping someone had more info with the RED brake dash light but I can't find anything with a search. I also have to fix the broken sun roof, the car always complaining about tail lights that aren't out, every time it rains the glove box fills up with water, the auto front wiper doesn't work, the auto headlights don't work, sometimes one or both headlights flicker and won't come on, replace the fuel cap..... I'm sure I forgot something as the list is so long. I have owned a lot of cars and this is by far the worst, and I'm a heavy equipment mechanic so I'm no stranger to foreign engineering. I work on Volvo construction, Liebehhr construction, and many other foreign brands.
Sorry, I'm off my soapbox :(
Thanks anyways, :beerchug:
Eric
 
#25 ·
The way I see it you have two choices. 1. Pay $75 for a scanner and identify the part you need to replace which could be $75 or 2. Pay hundreds if not a thousand bucks replacing parts until you replace the bad one.

Like I said there are numerous things that can cause the trifecta. If your luck is like mine if you choose route 2 it will be the last part left to replace before it's fixed. Spend the $75 imho.
 
#26 ·
I just wanted to chime in on my past few experiences with trifecta lights, I know the thread is old.. but as I was reading some posts I just wanted to scream out the likely cause of this issue.

One person reported getting trifecta lights shortly after replacing their brake pads and rotors... well, I recently replaced the rotors and pads on my wife's 330ci (e46) and 2-3 days later, she got the trifecta lights. So I cleaned the front 2 wheel speed sensors after finding some metalic looking metal shavings sticking to them and right as I pulled out the driveway the lights went away, the next day, they came back on again, I cleaned the rear speed sensors and almost immediately the lights went away and have not come back since. I also recalled the first time I changed the pads on her car a year or so back and also getting the trifecta light she.

Anyways, I just purchased a 2002 x5 last night and it has the same lights, I noticed the rotors and brake pads are brand new so that's going to be the first place I check to try and get rid of the lights.
 
#27 ·
Sorry to bring this back up! Thank you, bluebee and 540iman for all of your research and insight! It's been really helpful in understanding the system.

I don't think my case is special... I just want to make sure I'm headed down the right path before I throw out big $.

Symptoms:
1) Trifecta intermittent
2) Pad sensors and speed sensors check out good
3) Rear brakes will occasionally lock up and create significant drag
4) INPA DSC error log will report either #81, or #105 - brake pedal switch signal and #115 - pressure sensor
5) In INPA live analog feed:
a) pressure and brake light switch will fluctuate about 1 unit (+/-1 pressure, +/-0.1 switch)
b) pressure reading will spike to 291 bar with or without my influence
c) brake light switch will read over 12V when pedal is depressed (not sure if this is an issue or normal)
videos:
https://youtu.be/qFlIQnmEyso
https://youtu.be/SrsG8g72H6Q
https://youtu.be/Lk4TmQ-3BCg

So my suspects (I believe) are:
* master cylinder
* brake light switch
* speed sensors (ruled out via DMM?)
* ABS control module
* DSC pressure sensor

I'd appreciate any insight. Thank you!
 
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