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E60 (2004 - 2010)
BMW 5-Series (E60 chassis) was first seen in the Unites States in the fall of 2003 with a 2004 Model Year designation. The E60 is now available as a 528i, 528xi, 535i, 535xi, 550i and a 535xi sports wagon! -- View the E60 Wiki

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  #26  
Old 11-11-2014, 10:42 AM
banglenot banglenot is online now
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Brilliant. Thank you.

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  #27  
Old 11-11-2014, 10:50 AM
chrisb0003 chrisb0003 is offline
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Location: Ohio
 
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Mein Auto: 2004 545i
Quote:
Originally Posted by banglenot View Post
Brilliant. Thank you.

No problem. If anyone needs any help with the procedure just ask, though you can pretty much just follow the thread about solenoid replacement and then the Sonnax instructions take over once the valve body is out.

Oh yeah, TORQUE EVERYTHING. The valve body is like 6NM and the pan is like 8 or 10, which is nothing. The drain plug has it written on there and if you tighten that one more than what it says it will crack the pan (from my buddy the BMW tech).
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  #28  
Old 11-11-2014, 12:14 PM
switz switz is offline
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Good work! Did you do the solenoids too, or just the zip kit?
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  #29  
Old 11-11-2014, 01:26 PM
chrisb0003 chrisb0003 is offline
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Originally Posted by switz View Post
Good work! Did you do the solenoids too, or just the zip kit?
I did not do the solenoids. I'm not really convinced they would be a permanent fix in my case as I did find other worn parts of the valve body. I'm also going to check with some local tranny shops and see if they have that fixture and could ream the valve body for the replacement pressure regulator valve that Sonnax makes. I think that is where my problem is. That particular valve held about half the vacuum it should and the problem is now about half as bad, so why not? LOL
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  #30  
Old 11-18-2014, 10:29 PM
meangreen94z meangreen94z is offline
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Mein Auto: 2004 BMW 745i sport
I was leaning toward the zipkit as well. Im guessing you are referring to this overbore kit?
http://www.sonnax.com/parts/2663

Based off the bore in the picture and in reference to the valve body schematic that would be the main pressure regulator valve? What other areas did it have you vacuum test? Im guessing all the control valve bores?

How many miles were on your car/transmission? Were there any other symptoms/issues it resolved? I've had the 35-40 TCC lock up surge since I bought the car at 105k. Now at 108k. Intermittently it will surge at other speeds/gears going up an incline. It also had an delay/surge after downshifting on hard acceleration. The transmission otherwise shifts perfect, none of the other common issues(2-1 jolt, etc.). I can thank the original owner for being one of the few to change the fluid before issues arose.

My wife was driving the car last weekend and for the first time it set a fault under hard acceleration. 4F92 EGS: Ratio monitoring, clutch A-C. Im leaning toward a pressure loss issue in the valve body. Atleast before I tear into the case.
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  #31  
Old 11-19-2014, 06:08 AM
chrisb0003 chrisb0003 is offline
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The clutch A pressure regulator valve was the one on mine that failed the vacuum test. My car has 99,500 miles and it started acting up around 80K. I had the slamming into gear if you were decelerating, then hit the gas real quick; that was resolved with the kit. Mine was surging between 35-40 mph, but ONLY in 5th gear. If I put it in manual and left it in 5th, it would surge any time I had very little pressure on the accelerator pedal; the speed didn't matter. I don't think is was the converter because if it were, it should do it ANY time the converter tried to lock, no matter what gear it was in. Clutch A controls 5th gear and it is also the valve that failed the test, although it was better after the kit. It held more vacuum, and the surging was A LOT less noticeable. That was my reasoning for suspecting that valve. I contacted Sonnax and they said the reason for the price ($700) on the tool was because there needs to be a .0004 clearance between the valve and the bore. I am in the process of finding out if someone can just measure the valve and bore it for me. I know some people that do machine work on jet engines that might be able to do it for me. For all the parts, what they fix, and what areas they suggest for vacuum testing, check out the instructions for the zip kit that they have on their website. Almost ALL of the areas I checked had leakage of varying degrees.
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  #32  
Old 12-14-2014, 03:13 PM
meangreen94z meangreen94z is offline
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Well I did the zip kit as well yesterday, and went ahead and replaced the EDS solenoids while I was at it. It took about 10 miles of driving at various speeds to readapt after clearing the adaptations. The 35-40mph surge is completely gone(to this point) and the transmission shifts perfectly.

A point of clarification for the above poster. The check balls are in the top half of the valvebody as stated, but the top half is on the bottom when you remove the assembly bolts(on a table). So don't flip it over after removing the bolts. Even if you make that mistake, the bores in the passages are distinct for the check balls. If you try to place them anywhere else they won't be able to move freely.

Make sure to get the separator plate number off and order a new one in advance. Despite Sonnax's claims otherwise, it's guaranteed the gasket material will separate upon disassembly.
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