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E63/64 DIY: Coolant Leak Repair ( Cap w Seal and Expanding Coolant Pipe) w Pics

75K views 61 replies 35 participants last post by  oRIDDLERo 
#1 · (Edited by Moderator)
BMW 645 Coolant leak repair (Cap with Seal Repair and Expanding Coolant Pipe Installation w Pics)
By Michael R. Brown
(Estimated time to complete the job is 6-8 hrs)

****See the PDF document attached for the complete job details!
- The PDF contains the following:

- List of Parts needed to do the jobs
- List of Tools to complete the jobs
- Detail Pictures while completing the jobs
- Lessons Learned while completing the jobs

** SORRY For some reason my pics are not showing up. If you can't view the PDF send me a message on the forum or an email to the address below and I will send you the word document version.

:thumbup:* This job will save you $2000 on the Cap with Seal Job and $9000 on the Coolant Pipe Job. Both of these parts fail around 80,000 to 100,000 miles and are known problems with the N62 engine. If you have any questions or you live in the Atlanta area and would like for me to complete the jobs for you, shoot me an email at robe370@aol.com.
 

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#31 ·
Update to the DIY: Today I completed another expanding coolant pipe job. When I finished the job, I got a check engine light and increased emissions message, and after scanning the OBD on the car. I had a code for misfire on cylinder #8. I took the intake manifold back off to see if something got in between the gasket. While taking the fuel rail off, I found a O-ring missing on the # 8 cylinder. I replaced to O-ring, put the intake manifold back on and problem solved. One more thing to check before you put everything back together if you choose to remove the fuel rail. Hope this helps.

I have done this job 7 times on 545s, 645s and 745s. This was the first time I ran into this problem so, I thought I would post it to help some out.
 
#33 ·
Update to the DIY: Today I completed another expanding coolant pipe job. When I finished the job, I got a check engine light and increased emissions message, and after scanning the OBD on the car. I had a code for misfire on cylinder #8. I took the intake manifold back off to see if something got in between the gasket. While taking the fuel rail off, I found a O-ring missing on the # 8 cylinder. I replaced to O-ring, put the intake manifold back on and problem solved. One more thing to check before you put everything back together if you choose to remove the fuel rail. Hope this helps.

I have done this job 7 times on 545s, 645s and 745s. This was the first time I ran into this problem so, I thought I would post it to help some out.
Thanks for adding this. I'm overseas but my home is in Columbus, Ga.....right down the road from you. If I wait to do this stateside i'll send you some more business with my car.

All time best DIY write-up I have seen.
 
#34 ·
Thanks!

l just returned from Afghanistan myself Dec 26, 2012. I am a aircraft mechanic too!

I have worked at several Auto Craft Garages on Air Force Bases and I have 20 years experience working on many different cars mostly German and Japanese.

I can do majority of work on BMW cars (brakes, belts, plugs, valve covers, plugs etc.... I just don't have the capability to perform programming. I charge $950 labor to do the job. Parts are $600-1000 depending on which pipe you use. I am starting to see all kinds of pipes popping up on eBay from $200-650. Though everyone, who I have performed the job for, opted for the All German Auto Pipe.

If you buy new belts and a water pump , I will replace them with new ones since they have to come off to do the pipe job.

What's funny is i did one for my BMW service advisor's friend. He did not want his buddy to pay the crazy price and he called me and ask me to do it for him :bigpimp:

Just give me a call when you return and I will be happy to knock it out for you. Take care over there!
 
#35 · (Edited)
Thanks!

l just returned from Afghanistan myself Dec 26, 2012. I am a aircraft mechanic too!

I have worked at several Auto Craft Garages on Air Force Bases and I have 20 years experience working on many different cars mostly German and Japanese.

I can do majority of work on BMW cars (brakes, belts, plugs, valve covers, plugs etc.... I just don't have the capability to perform programming. I charge $950 labor to do the job. Parts are $600-1000 depending on which pipe you use. I am starting to see all kinds of pipes popping up on eBay from $200-650. Though everyone, who I have performed the job for, opted for the All German Auto Pipe.

If you buy new belts and a water pump , I will replace them with new ones since they have to come off to do the pipe job.

What's funny is i did one for my BMW service advisor's friend. He did not want his buddy to pay the crazy price and he called me and ask me to do it for him :bigpimp:

Just give me a call when you return and I will be happy to knock it out for you. Take care over there!
Nice.....I'm prior Air Force. I worked with the U-2 and the high Altitude Pressure suit when I was in. I am in Cambodia now working with the State Department. Plan was to come back this summer but I think I am going to extend here. It is CRAZY boring but the money is too good to let go right now.

I was a Contractor in Iraq for 7 years but I refused to go to Afghanistan....LOL

Glad you made it home safe.

How do you like that VW CC...???
 
#42 ·
#48 · (Edited)
$199 - Alternative Solution

I own a 2009 BMW 650i and am starting to have leaking issues. I stumbled across this: just google bimmerfix and you'll see the $199 kit that I'm referring to. (Note: This site wont let me add the .com at the end of bimmerfix)

Has anybody tried it? If so, has it worked? :confused:
 
#58 ·
Almost done with all this work whew! I replaced the timing covers, the coolant pipe (kept the cap&seal), water pump, valve cover gaskets, spark plug tubes, and some brittle vacuum lines. I did find a couple of things that helped me during the project that I didn't see elsewhere, that may help someone else. First of all, I remove the battery cable from the charge point on the drivers side to better access the vale cover for removal. Also Removed the vents from the firewall and bent the oil dipstick tube out of the way. MUCH easier getting that sucker off and back on! Also I had a hell of a time with the lowest bolt on the water pump, so when you get that off, trim about 3-4 threads with a saw or grinder before reinstalling or you'll be cussing! Don't forget to remove the hoses and pulley to better access all of the bolts beforehand as well. I was able to do the intake alone by using some metal shims on top of the rear intake studs, and reinstalling the nuts on the forward two studs to allow the intake to just sit there on top. Easy as pie! Don't forget to remove ALL O-rings and little plastic keepers from the hoses and lube them. The little plastic keeper goes after the O-rings, flat end towards O-ring. If I ever do this again, I think I'll do a good engine cleaning before commencing work Yuk! All clean now though :)

Sent from my Nexus 6 using Tapatalk
 
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