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2016 Navigation Map Update DIY for CIC models (2009+) Here

2M views 4K replies 1K participants last post by  shawnsheridan 
#1 ·
Just figured I'd pass on some info I obtained while attempting to update my '09 E93 iDrive navigation software recently. As you all probably know, from 2009 on the iDrive is now the CIC-based system (hard drive) and as such all of the official channels tell you that you have to bring the car to the dealer to have a map update performed. In 2010, I had to do this to update my maps from 2009 to 2010, at an out-the-door cost of $253 from my local dealer, and the car was there for two days. At the time, this was the only way to do it. Now, however, there are places out there to purchase what you need to do this upgrade yourself with a significant savings in both cost and convenience. Thanks to Technic and other members on the forum who provided some info and guidance.

In order to update your maps, you need two things: (1) a 3-disc DVD set containing the 2011 map data (BMW part #01990037287), and (2) a BMW Navigation Map Certificate, also commonly referred to as an FSC code (BMW part #65902181742). A couple notes about these part numbers--first, the 3-disc DVD set uses the same part number for both 2010 and 2011 maps so ask to make sure you are getting the 2011 map set if you are upgrading. I had the parts manager physically go locate the discs in inventory and visually verify that the discs were labelled 2011 before placing my order. I don't know if BMW will recycle this part number again for future years or not. Second, Tischer BMW originally believed they could order the FSC code but upon attempting to order same, they discovered the part numbers had been pulled from their system and they could not, in fact, order the FSC code. They claim BMW has since pulled this part number from all USA dealers as a part they can order for a customer (I cannot verify if this is true or not).

Okay, on with the update. DISCLAIMER: As with any car modification, proceed at your own risk. I had absolutely no issues with the procedure, even with a small hiccup (see below). Also, I have no affiliation with the vendors I mention in this DIY--they were simply the cheapest and most reputable at the time I needed to make my purchase--both were *awesome* to deal with and have great customer service. This doesn't mean it will be that way for everyone in the future. Again, proceed at your own risk.

1. Get the 2011 3-disc DVD Map Set. I ordered my discs from Tischer BMW online. I conversed with Jason, the Internet Parts manager, several times regarding the recycled map part number and also the availability/non-availability of FSC codes from them. As of 05/01/11, the 3-disc DVD map set cost $7.12 from their web site. You can't find the part by searching but if you put in the actual part number you will see it. Of course, since it was the only thing I ordered from Tischer, I got whacked with a $4.95 "handling fee" and $14.95 for standard UPS ground shipping--both which I consider exorbitant--for a grand total of $27.02 to my door. If you get them through Tischer, I recommend doing so when you place an order for something else and your shipping cost should be divided out over multiple items making it more reasonable.

2. Get the BMW Navigation Map Certificate (FSC code). Since Tischer could not obtain this for me, I shopped elsewhere. When I did the upgrade in March 2010, the cost at my local dealer for the FSC code was $229. When I called my dealer this year I was told that the list price for the code is now $343, but he would give me the BMW CCA discount which would bring it to $310. They wouldn't sell it to me directly though--only if I had the dealer do the upgrade, and they would also charge $60 in labor for the install, so after tax it would be just over $380 out the door. Calling around to other dealers I had several others quote the $343 price and no one would sell it directly to me. Enter BMWRetrofit.com. I saw them posting in another forum that they could obtain USA FSC codes directly for customers. They are located in Canada, and as of 05/01/11, they charged $200 CAD, which as of my purchase worked out to $208.74 US. My CC company charged me $6.26 for a foreign exchange fee, for a total of $215 for the code. Within 48 hours, I received an email from BMWRetrofit with an attached one-page .PDF of my BMW Navigation Map Certificate containing my unique 20-digit FSC code. For those that don't know, FSC codes are generated using your car's unique VIN so it can only be used on your car (BMW's way to avoid piracy). You do have to email BMWRetrofit your VIN after your payment so they can get the code. I will say BMWRetrofit was awesome to deal with.

3. Prep the car. The update process takes just over two hours to complete start to finish, and needs to be done with the car either running or the ignition in the on position. If the car is not running, this will drain the battery so you need to have the car tethered to a DC power source. I don't know if a battery tender would suffice (very low amperage), but a standard battery charger certainly will. I connected up the alligator clips to the terminals under the hood, set the charger for 10amps, and plugged it in. I had no power problems and no battery drain. Once the power source is set, you need to have the ignition on. Press the start button twice but DON'T put your foot on the brake. This will turn on the ignition. If you press the start button only once, you put the car in "radio ready" mode which turns on the radio/iDrive. The problem with this mode is the car will go to sleep after 20 minutes and shut off your update. So definitely keep it with the ignition on.

4. Insert the first disc. It will automatically load the update program and tell you it's about to start the update and you select OK. It will then prompt you to enter in your activation (FSC) code using the iDrive wheel. Once you enter the code and select OK it will start the process. You can watch the status bar slowly crawl along as it proceeds.

5. Insert the second disc. When the first disc is done, it will prompt you for disc 2. It will not automatically eject it from the drive so you need to press eject to remove the disc, then insert disc 2. You can watch the status bar slowly crawl along as it proceeds.

6. Insert the third disc. When the second disc is done, it will prompt you for disc 3. It will not automatically eject it from the drive so you need to press eject to remove the disc, then insert disc 3. You can watch the status bar slowly crawl along as it proceeds.

7. Reboot the iDrive system. When the third disc is complete, it will tell you it is done and will then say it needs to reboot the iDrive system. Select Reboot/OK and the system will automatically reboot and your update is complete. Eject the third disc. Store the disc set with your BMW Navigation Map Certificate in case you ever have to reinstall it.

Once you are done, if you go into the Options menu in the navigation system, under Navigation Version, you will see:

NA
BMW Group
112093.2.19
Road Map North America Premium 2011

A couple final notes about the update:

1. I've heard rumors that you need to have a (relatively) recent ISTA/P firmware version in the car to do the update. I don't know if this is true or not, but I do know my car has 2.37.1.0.1 from March 2010 and I had no issues. There is no way for the layperson to check their firmware version without a specialty reader or a trip to the dealer. However, based on my experience I don't think it's an issue. As long as you have the CIC hard drive iDrive, this should work for you.

2. This update is for the map data and the POI (Points Of Interest) data only. There is no software/firmware upgrade, no new features added, and no bugs fixed/introduced. You would need an ISTA/P software update at the dealer for that, if needed. Rule of thumb: if you aren't having problems you don't need one.

3. This update can be down while you are using the car/driving, and can be interrupted and will (or should) pick up where it left off. I actually had to go somewhere while the update was still going on and I was driving down the road still using iDrive/radio/menus, etc. It even prompted me for the iDrive reboot and rebooted at the end of the update while the car was in motion without any issues. When I first started this update, I started with the car in "Radio Ready" mode and after 20 minutes it shut completely off and went to sleep. I turned the ignition back on and the update continued from where it left off.

4. At any time you can go to Navigation, hit the Option button and the last choice is a new temporary selection "View Navigation Update Status" and it will show you the current status.

So in summary, the CIC hard drive navigation map updates can definitely be done by you at home, and for a lot cheaper than at the dealer. My dealer was going to charge me $380 and I would have had to leave the car for the whole day. Total cost for the discs and the FSC code shipped to my door was $242.
 
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#109 ·
None taken. This is my first expensive car purchase, so I am definitely being cautious :)

If the cheaper codes were somehow problematic and bogus, I would go the more expensive route at a dealer. However if they are safe, then naturally I cannot justify a higher cost. So here I sit in limbo, thinking lol.

It took days to torrent the isos, about ready to md5 check them before burning. Will post my results!
 
#111 · (Edited)
Another +1 for Sergej. Emailed yesterday afternoon, a quick PayPal event, and he emailed the code during the night. I have my code.

I went to my AZ BMW dealer yesterday after lunch and paid my $6.99 (including tax) for the set of DVDs. They don't have any in stock but the service manager showed me his set to make sure we were talking the same item. They'll be delivered early next week, Tuesday suggested. They told me that the code would be fine but were surprised I was getting it elsewhere. They say they have to pay PRICE for the code when they access the BMW mother ship, where PRICE is ~3x the price I paid.

I imagine that BMW charge different prices in different geographies and the online reduced rate reflects the price in EUR/Zlotys/Rubles/beads charged somewhere else. If BMW were interested in locking it down they would require that the car be attached to the mother ship, perform some check on the VIN sold-to location and the access point requesting the code, or even require that the GPS reports a dealer location while the update initiates. They don't. I don't feel bad since I am certain that the code is coming from BMW's system somewhere and the map license fees are taken care of even if my dealer is missing out on the usual fees. The user of that BMW terminal is probably violating BMW rules, but not doing anything illegal or which deprives the licensee.

I find it impossible to imagine an illicit 3rd party would be privy to the codes used with the VIN and perhaps the date to generate the FSC without accessing the BMW mother ship. It is almost certain to involve a one-way hash function using a proven robust algorithm and would not be reverse engineerable without a huge supply of known mutations to test with and an enormous - really enormous - compute resource. If it could be reverse engineered then my respect of BMW is on the floor.



I was told there were 51 DVD sets in stock at the central BMW facility as of 2pm yesterday. I am a little nervous that the DVDs, normally sold only direct to dealer, will be put on restrictions if too many people suddenly order them at what must be less than production cost.

PM me if you are in AZ, ideally Chandler/Tempe borders or vicinity, and want the DVDs after I am done with them.

Frank.

UPDATE 2/16/2012: My set of maps arrived at my dealer and I collected them this afternoon. As hoped my $6.99 bought me the set of three 2012 Premium map DVDs, and per other's experiences a set of three 2011ii Premium map DVDs. I'm now good-to-go for some updating this weekend.
 
#112 · (Edited)
hello all
FSC codes are not to be original and not original,this is just a sequence of numbers and letters,
it allows to install new maps or not,
To this day, none of my client did not have any problems
Since the majority of original maps used are purchased from dealers (5-10 dollars :)
and the code itself and you can guess accidentally :)
best regards Sergej sieras5@inbox.lt
 
#113 ·
Okay...my bad. I went to FSCmap.com and thought that was Sergei. My apologies. I would have tried Sergei and used Paypal. However, I would have only saved $106 in the long run, so I am not disappointed having spent about $225 with all purchases from a dealer.
 
#115 ·
My price with dvd map is about hundreds of dollars,
Generating FSC code takes from ten minutes to several hours
(when you pay money in the night, code generation takes much longer-code you will got next day morning, in Europe the time is different)
Code generation from dealer takes much longer.
So, you have a choice from where buy FSC code :)
 
#116 ·
Thanks for posting

Everyone - This is Sergej and several of us got the code from him within 24 hours and it worked flawlessly.
 
#122 ·
Try this:

1. Put key in key holder thing (or whatever the F you call it)
2. Press start button once, wait a few seconds, and press again (car should be on now and all the lights in the dash light up - after a few seconds all warning lights go out and only the "service engine soon" light stays on)
3. Connect charger to positive and negative posts under hood.
4. Start upgrade process.

The car should not turn off.
 
#128 ·
If your willing to be patient, it took about 2.5 hours of driving to update. I just let the system update during my normal commuting. Took 1.5 days (approx. 2.5 hours of driving). The Nav and all iDrive systems seem to continue to work fine during the update. When it finishes, iDrive will reboot, even while driving.
 
#129 ·
I just left my car running and locked the door. I switched off the DRLs so as not to draw too much attention in the parking garage.

Took 2.5 hours. Needed to go back twice to change the disk.
 
#133 ·
I got the charger out and put it on 10Amps. The tricky part is, although I pressed the start button 2x's, when I opened the driver's door to get out it would still time out. Several more tries of 2 pushes ( the same way) did the trick even after opening the driver's door.

sieras5@inbox.lt is trustworthy, he got back to me with the code within 1 hour of payment. Thanks!

The only trouble is the North America 2012 info still does not show the road I live on that is over 2 years old. My car is a 2009 and this is my first update, so I hope there's something in the map that makes it worth while???
 
#136 ·
I tried one more trick
clicked the START button,
I closed the door through the open window,
I noticed when I open the door to the system goes to sleep,
So I suggest you press the START button through the closed door window, or sit in the car without opening the door :)

it to be accurate, code I sent to you after 11 minutes.Many thanks Murphy.

I agree, not all roads be included in the updates
but the longer the exercise really see a lot of addition.
 
#134 ·
I'm confused, there is no way you need 50A of power in a car that's not running. Nothing in the CIC pulls that kind of current, not even close. It's a display screen and a hd and junk. A 15A circuit in your home can run more than that. Yes I know it's 12v vs 120v, but this stuff is low voltage by design.

When the car is running and the alternator is stepping it up for ignition, or for starting CCAs, sure I understand higher numbers. But to run a computer and spin up a dvd, I have a hard time finding where that that amperage is required--or couldnt be offset by a battery tender. Sieras has done this many times I'm sure, I just want to understand the process better.
 
#138 · (Edited)
Success! I updated my maps to the 2012 edition with this method yesterday evening. Entirely trouble-free so I thought I'd post my method. It is exactly as described earlier in this thread, but with a few additional details.

Wanting to minimize battery drain I parked my car in my garage, wound down both front windows, and turned off the auto headlights. If you have daylight running lights turn those off too. I turned off the HVAC fans by selecting the 0-speed on the fan. Then I programmed button '6' of my programmable buttons to toggle the iDrive display on/off.

With the car fully off I connected my battery charger, in 10A mode, to the posts under the hood. Even though I have comfort access I put a key in the dashboard slot and brought the car up to 'full-on' by pressing the start button twice with my foot OFF the brake.

Here is a picture of my initial map version:


While sitting in the driver seat I initiated the update by simply inserting DVD #1 (of 3, see my earlier post in this thread - $6.99 from BMW) into the DVD/CD slot and within a few seconds it recognized the update disc:


After selecting Update I was prompted for the FSC which I purchased from sergej (see my earlier post in this thread):


Which I entered using the iDrive knob and triple-checked:


The update began:


While updating the temporary additional selection under Navigation/Options appeared:


After returning to the progress indicator I hopped out of the car, closed the door, and reached back in through the driver's window to quickly cycle the car through radio-ready, off, radio-ready and back to full-on. By doing it quickly, tap-tap-tap-tap, the iDrive did not initiate any shutdown activity and continued to read the DVD. Opening the door would also have started the shut-down timer so by reaching back in through the window to start the process I bypassed that and the car thought I was still inside. To be safe I then went to the passenger window and reached in to use button '6' which I had programmed to toggle the display on/off and turned off the display. My battery charger at this point was showing an output of 7.5A, which is about 90W. About what I would expect.

I used the persisting blue-tooth connection to my phone to check that the car was still 'on' while I was watching TV just within range, but for the first disc I couldn't resist returning the car and reaching through the passenger window to toggle the display and check on progress. My first disc took an hour to load. When it was finished the display turned back on automatically so the last time I returned to the car I immediately knew it was done.

Without opening the passenger door I ejected disc 1 and inserted disc 2. An hour later I returned to the car and found it had also completed so I inserted disc 3. That took slightly less time to load - between 30 and 40 minutes. I was greeted with this message when I returned to the car:


When I accepted the update the iDrive automatically restarted but when it finished initializing and I checked the map version the field was blank! Momentary anxiety! I noticed that the maps were behaving extremely sluggishly so something compute or disc intensive was happening. I decided to leave the car to do its thing for a while and left it connected to the charger in 'full on' for another hour. (I had other things to do so I didn't check on it). An hour later normal map agility was restored. For good measure I rebooted the iDrive by holding down the radio on/off button until the reboot triggered. After that reboot the version screen showed this reassuring information:


Enjoy! If anyone in the metro-Phoenix area and especially the Tempe/Chandler border wants to borrow my set of DVDs they are welcome to. Send me a Private Message. I bought mine from the local BMW dealer for $6.99 so they are inexpensive enough, but it may be quicker and easier to borrow mine. Plus the fewer sets of discs being sold the less likely it is that BMW will do something to stymie this DIY procedure.

Frank.
 
#157 ·
Battery Tender Plus will not supply enough voltage to do this update (I know, I tried with mine). That is a trickle charge unit and the draw from the car is much greater than what the unit can supply to recharge the drain. You need a dedicated battery charger if you're going to tether the car to a power source and not run it.
 
#140 ·
I am going to do the update this weekend. Unfortunately I do not think I have a 2+ hour block of time to do it in one shot.

Someone said that it can be done in increments. Anyone confirm this? Can I do 1 hour, switch off the car, come back and resume where I left off with no hassles?

Thanks
 
#142 · (Edited)
The update can be done in increments. I just let mine update during my daily commute. It took about 1.5 round trips (about 2.5 hours of driving). The update would always pretty much pick up where it left off. I had started the third disk, but did not finish at the end of the first day. When I started the morning of the second day, It did ask for my first disk, but quickly jumped to the end, and the same with the second disk. Once I inserted the third disk, it picked up where it had left off the previous day, and then completed the update. iDrive rebooted during my drive (after asking if it was okay) and all was well after. No problems noted.
 
#144 ·
usb nav update

So you have to use 3 usb's. You can not put all 3 disc on one usb? Do you put the usb in the slot in the console or glovebox?

I have already done the 2012 maps. I paid $197 for my code not knowing about Sieras5. I sat in my car with headlights and A/c fans off and started the car for about 5 minutes between disc and had no problems.

sieras5's messaage
"XE-XE
I will give you a little secret
Everything is very simple
2011 years of the last two letters in the code is BQ,
and in 2012 the last two letter code is a CA,
So with the 2011 code not update 2012 map,
and the 2012 code is not updated the 2013 map
hope I satisfy your curiosity
regards
__________________
BMW E60 DIESEL 170kw,navi CIC PREMIUM,ALL QUESTIONS sieras5@inbox.lt "

So if only the last two digits/characters change for the map code can we guess what those letters will be for 2013.
2011=BQ
2012=CA
2013=A? my guess is Y or J
This means I can use my 2012 map code and start with A and guess other letters until it works. Is that correct?
 
#145 ·
So you have to use 3 usb's. You can not put all 3 disc on one usb? Do you put the usb in the slot in the console or glovebox?
He wrote that you can use 3 or 1 USB, although it seems like for the 3 USB option, it's still actually only 1 smaller USB stick, and he is wiping it after each disc, and then copying the next disc onto the same USB stick:

Hallo,
For all my clients I could give inctruction, how update maps via USB (updates takes about 37minutes).You have had 3 USB(16GB+16GB+8GB) or you have had one USB- after the first DVD you have to quickly delete usb and add to the USB 2 dvd contents,as well as the third DVD.If you have one USB, update time depends on your finger dexterity :)
My dealer stated that they can do it via a single 32Gb stick in the glovebox port.

As for the FSC Code:

sieras5's messaage
"XE-XE
I will give you a little secret
Everything is very simple
2011 years of the last two letters in the code is BQ,
and in 2012 the last two letter code is a CA,
So with the 2011 code not update 2012 map,
and the 2012 code is not updated the 2013 map
hope I satisfy your curiosity
regards
__________________
BMW E60 DIESEL 170kw,navi CIC PREMIUM,ALL QUESTIONS sieras5@inbox.lt "

So if only the last two digits/characters change for the map code can we guess what those letters will be for 2013.
2011=BQ
2012=CA
2013=A? my guess is Y or J
This means I can use my 2012 map code and start with A and guess other letters until it works. Is that correct?
I don't think he is saying that only the last two digits change, rather all the digits change, with the last two digits being version (e.g. 2011, 2012, etc.) specific.
 
#147 ·
My dealer stated that they can do it via a single 32Gb stick in the glovebox port.

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

So your dealer is right, this option i could offer for you a few days as well.

with best wishes
Sergej

and all I want to apologize for my bad English, it is not my main language.
 
#148 ·
My dealer stated that they can do it via a single 32Gb stick in the glovebox port.

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

So your dealer is right, this option i could offer for you a few days as well.

with best wishes
Sergej

and all I want to apologize for my bad English, it is not my main language.
Good deal. Thanks
 
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