BimmerFest BMW Forum banner

Need help getting 2011 x35d

5K views 28 replies 10 participants last post by  Interested 
#1 ·
I'm not sure if this is the correct place to post this but I think you guys are talking about what I'm interested in. I have a gl450 lease that is up in June. I want to get a x35d which I think I have to order because there aren't a lot of them around here. I also want to get the best deal that I can. They told me that I could order one now, get the credit, and pick it up in late may. It sounded like a good idea but I'm new to whole new car thing, I've always bought used before. One sales man told me that I would be better off leasing the gas v6 but that just didn't make sense to me. I also live in central jersey but called up the costco auto program, they refered me to a dealer in north west Nj (Roxbury) and the lady there told me that she would be able to give me the best deal because of costco. They are 1.5 hours away from me so I'm not sure what to do. I have a dealer 20 minutes from me but didn't like his offer. She did seem the nicest out of all the sales people I have spoken with. Should I be looking to pay close to invoice even if I'm ordering the truck? One guy also told me that if I buy a car from one dealer and get it serviced at another I will not get a loaner. Does any one know what invoice is on an x35d 2011 with tech, premium, and third row? Am I thinking that getting a 35d is better than the v6? I hate the whole car buying process because I always feel like I'm getting ripped off.
 
#2 ·
Have you even test drove the gas and the diesel versions? If not, start from there.

I was thinking about the diesel as well until I test drove one, slow off the line and a (to me at least) loud tick, just like a delivery truck.
 
#3 ·
The reason that your dealer said it was cheaper to lease a 35i was because the terms (Residual/MF) are significantly better than the 35d. THe difference in residual is 7%, so the $4500 would not off set it off. Test drive both, but the 35i terms look a lot better, so it does not make much sense to lease a 35d as the terms are a bit sour.
 
#4 ·
First, assume every salesman is lying. Most of the time you'll be right.

There are A LOT of threads on pricing and invoice. Search. You should be 500-1500 over 'cost' (cost being invoice minus incentives like the ECO) Do yourself a favor and just negotiate ONE PRICE: their profit number. All other costs are fixed.

I find the diesel has amazing driveability, but I have other cars for stoplight racing....

A
 
#7 ·
Thanks for all of your replies. I haven't driven the d yet but I know that is what I want. If I would have gotten the cdi320 three years ago instead of my gl450 I would have bought it out, but I didn't and now I want an x5d because it is cheaper than the gl350 and drives better.
 
#15 ·
You essentially posted too little information to go on for us to be any help. .
The sticker is 53968, got it at Roxbury, 12000 miles per year, the Msd did not really lower monthly and I figured with the savings from that I could prob earn more interest by investing the 4500. They told me that it was 500 over invoice but I just feel I cann't trust a car sales man no matter what they say.
There is no need for trust. Sounds like you asked about additional MSDs and the numbers didn't change, so you decided it wasnt a good idea. Did you ever think they can cook the numbers to get you into the lease that makes THEM the most money???

You should have a lease calculator from a website and just run your own numbers- don't rely on them to tell you ANYTHING.

It is amazing how many people have no clue about the details of the second largest transaction most of them will make in their lives...
 
#11 · (Edited)
You essentially posted too little information to go on for us to be any help. Post your order sheet, along with what you are paying for the vehicle. What's the lease term and miles/yr for the lease? Is the 2k down to reduce the cap cost? Are the taxes included in the downpayment or are they rolled into the lease? Have you looked into MSDs instead of putting money down to reduce cap cost? What is the CA quoting you on the MF (since we already know the regional buy rate on the 35d for the east coast). There is a wealth of information in the Ask-A-Dealer forum that is stickied up at the top that you should read regarding leasing. Ideally, the best deals for the 2011 range anywhere from 500-1k over invoice. If you are willing to go out of your immediate area, you can get extremely good deals on even the 2011s. If you are willing to do the PCD pick-up, you essentially open up to deals from anywhere in the US.
 
#12 ·
Agree with the above - the lease term for the 35d nullify the eco credit. Unless you WANT a diesel go with the gas 35.

BMW of Roxbury is where I got the best price while shopping around, my CA is very helpful - PM me if you want his name. Dont forget about MSD - seems to be a great deal
 
#13 ·
The sticker is 53968, got it at Roxbury, 12000 miles per year, the Msd did not really lower monthly and I figured with the savings from that I could prob earn more interest by investing the 4500. They told me that it was 500 over invoice but I just feel I cann't trust a car sales man no matter what they say.
 
#16 ·
Don't know the money factor but just did a couple of number crunching and I think after subtracting for the eco credit i am paying 1478 over invoice. I gave them a deposit but the order was not going to be placed until monday. I guess I can back out of it if I really need to.
 
#17 ·
How much over invoice you are paying on a lease means little.



They can jack the residual, mess with the money factor...

go to leasecompare.com... from the numbers you have you might be able to figure out the rest. The Ask-A-Dealer forum as well.

GL

A
 
#18 · (Edited)
Agree with Ard.

It would really be in your interest to read those threads about leasing. If you want to enter this transaction with peace of mind about getting a good deal, you need to familiarize yourself with the lease calculator and all the variables that go into it.

My vehicle history lends itself to leasing (I tend to want a new car every 2-3 years). I didn't really understand leasing until I scoured through this website and a few others. You have until Monday to learn some of the in/outs about leasing. You would be amazed at how the numbers can be worked.

You mentioned that you still don't feel comfortable about your transaction. Ard is correct in that it probably is the second most important one that people usually make. When I placed my order for the 50i, I poured over the invoices and numbers from 4-5 dealers within my region, learned as much as I could about leases and I settled on a dealer/CA that is 1200 miles away. It seems far, but I arranged it so that I could have this vehicle around the same time that I need to attend a conference in the region and tagged on a vacation for the drive back. I am walking away from it with the utmost confidence in my CA and the deal that he is giving me. My lease calculation independently came within 2-3 dollars of what he came up with, which was what I was comfortable paying for this vehicle.

P.S. The 857/mo seems a bit high for this transaction.
 
#19 ·
I used the web site leasecompare.com and they came up with numbers very similar to mine (two dollars off). I am only giving then 2000 up front, the site calculates the money factor to be .00214, and if you add in the tax and dmv the payment come out to be 857. I hate to cancel a deal just to get the same thing somewhere else. I don't have lots of time and I've already spent about 6 hours at dealerships.
 
#20 · (Edited)
Bottom line is, without knowing the money factor and residual no one can help you. Just ASK your CA and if you dont get them ask for your deposit back. You are not getting a "deal" by far. Im on my 6th lease and total time spent at the dealership for ALL leases doesnt add up to 6 hours. You cannot negotiate without doing your homework so spending time at the dealership is time wasted.



arjuno - where did you order from?


EDIT:

ran your number through my spreadsheet using assumptions for rates:

53,968 MSRP
50,169 estimated invoice (+- $25)

1,500 profit (on the high side)

51,669 sale price to leasing bank


using 230mf and 55% resdual

payment = 797.83 or with full MSD = 757.97

with $800 in profit which seems to be mid range

776.78 / 737.26

tax not included
 
#21 ·
she used, I think, a 57% residual because she told me the buyout would be 34706. I attached the work sheet that she was using, I took a picture of it while she went to go talk to the manager. My contract says 12,000 miles/month despite it saying 10000 on the work sheet. I think i'm going to end up canceling the deal because it sounds like I got ripped off. Please take a look at the sheet and let me know what you think. I was rolling in the taxes (7%) and dmv fees into the deal because she told me it was not a good idea to pay interest on that stuff. Thanks for all of your help.
 

Attachments

#22 ·
all the info is right there!

56% residual, 250 money factor (both horrible compared to gas)

This statement : " I was rolling in the taxes (7%) and dmv fees into the deal because she told me it was not a good idea to pay interest on that stuff "
makes no sense. if you dont want o pay interest on those, pay them upfront but your payment includes them.

payment with the above factors:

757.26 / 713.80 (MSD)

your taxes show as 1987 which not accounting for interest are 55.20 a month and the interest on that is around $5 so add around $60 a month to the payment above if you roll them in

normal inception fees are around $2200 but looks like you are rolling some of that in as well?

The way things are the dealer is making around $1500 or so.
 
#23 · (Edited)
Paspar is correct, don't waste time -in- dealerships unless you are going there to test drive vehicles. You can use the internet or place calls to dealers and absolutely get all the info you need to determine whether the CA is giving you a good deal or not.

If you do searches on this forum, you will be able to find the invoice numbers for each of the x5 models along with their packages. Once you are armed with that info, you can build your vehicle with its packages, come up with the invoice total+destination, and -then- make calls to dealers. Ask them if they would do +500-800 (for a 2011, this is a good deal) over invoice including MACO and training fee. If you get a CA that says yes, then proceed to tell him/her you are going to be leasing and would like to get lease numbers, specifically the residual AND the MF. You already know the term and miles you want so those don't change. When it comes to MF, see if can get it at the buy rate (dealers can do a markup on top of the base buy rate on this from .0001-.0004 allowable by BMWFS, which is pure profit for the dealer). Don't forget about MSDs, apart from New York state, most states will allow you to put max MSDs down. Its conventional wisdom for those familiar with leasing that these are a better option than putting -money down-. You don't get that money back at the end of the lease term or if your vehicle is stolen or totaled. The MSDs get returned at the end of the lease term. You can max those to a total of 7 (.00049 off the MF used in the calculations). If CA become evasive about these numbers over the phone, don't even bother dealing with them, move on to the next dealer. Rinse and repeat until you get one that you can trust.

Paspar, I went with Will Shaw who is the internet sales manager at Nick Alexander BMW in LA. If you can do a PCD pickup, I'm sure Will can get you a very attractive bimmerfest deal to make it worthwhile for those close to the East Coast. You should give him a call or PM him here. Will is very active at bimmerfest and he comes highly recommended by people on these forums, it's how I came across him. The nice thing about Will is he is very transparent when it comes to the numbers for the transaction, nothing is hidden. He will tell you if something is possible or not. If you want my 50i numbers, PM me and I can get those to you.
 
#25 · (Edited)
I would say that with certainty that you can get a better deal, but its all dependent on whether you are willing to do the legwork for it. The other factor is whether you are willing to travel outside of your region and open yourself up to more dealerships. To use myself as an example, I'm having all the initial paperwork done, registration, license plates etc prior to taking delivery in June, but thats cause I came to trust my CA with it. For my effort, I'm saving literally 3-4k on the car over the lease term from not having to deal with 4-5 dealerships in my region.

P.S. A cursory glance at that sheet, she is using 10,000 miles and you are stating 12,000. She is also charging you 349 for doc fees, which are excessive (anything below 80-100 is ok, don't think my CA is even charging me with those). Acquisition fee is standard rate. Your residual is 56% not 57% like you said. I'm in a hurry, but without having access to a lease calculator atm I would say from a glance at these numbers you are -not- getting "a deal".
 
#26 ·
"Today Only"

Cracks me up... people still pull that crap? :)

ijustice: YOU need to know what is a good deal BEFORE you leave your house. Don't bother asking a dealer for 'their numbers'. Simply tell them what YOUR deal is- they can say yes or no, that's it....

I spent ZERO time in a dealership- I negotiated the deal in 30 minutes over 4 phone calls with the internet guy. When it arrived I spent a bit over an hour picking the car up and dealing with the morons in finance.

Do you know WHY dealers drag out the process? PRECISELY because of the situation you are in- you've invested time and energy and don't want to walk away from the deal- and THEY KNOW IT. The sales process is one of creating a personal relationship between you and the salesman, forcing you to INVEST emotion and time in the deal.

So how good are you at poker? The best tactic is to create a straw man: figure out a very good deal...ALL the numbers. Use the rates and terms that others have posted here and in ask a dealer.... then call your local gal and say "Well, I have a problem. Another dealer that is a few hours away finally replied to my email and they are offering a great deal. I feel bad that you spent so much time with me, but I figured I would give you the option to match their deal".... See what she says. Even if they can't perfectly match it, they might come very close- and you can justify it (ie a plausible explanation) by saying "Well, you are closer so I am willing to do it".
 
#27 ·
All

I am in the market for a new X5 and was considering 2010 35d but then have started to wonder whether I can get the same or better deal on a 2011 either with the same engine or 35i. My question is what are the leases looking like in comparison to 2010 and if orders are placed now what are the ETA's people are seeing for delivery ?

Thanks all

WC
 
#28 ·
Currently the MY2011 models have unfavorable leases compared to the MY2010 models. The only models in the MY2011 line that even have decent leases are the X5 and X6s (mostly the gasoline engines). Wait until Q2 for an update on the captive lease programs, and hopefully these are more favorable than Q1 (updates May 1st I believe).

If you do decide to order, you'll need to see where your respective dealers are in their allocations. Most people that have cars on order are looking at late April to early June delivery atm.
 
#29 ·
Currently the MY2011 models have unfavorable leases compared to the MY2010 models. The only models in the MY2011 line that even have decent leases are the X5 and X6s (mostly the gasoline engines). Wait until Q2 for an update on the captive lease programs, and hopefully these are more favorable than Q1 (updates May 1st I believe).

If you do decide to order, you'll need to see where your respective dealers are in their allocations. Most people that have cars on order are looking at late April to early June delivery atm.
Do you know what the base rate money factor is for '10 and '11 35d? I thought they were both .00240. Thanks!
 
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top