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Vanos seal replacement- worth it?

12K views 20 replies 10 participants last post by  JMUDoc 
#1 ·
I'm now considering a Beisan double vanos procedure in my 2.5L 1999 Roadster with 68,000 miles. Should I expect much improvement in the lower RPM power? Mine seems somewhat sluggish until ~2500-3000 RPM but this is my first BMW.

I would love to know others experience with this upgrade. Was it noticeable immediately and did the performance improvement last?
 
#2 · (Edited)
It's absolutely worth it. The sound in the winter and how it idles will be the true tell-all. The original BMW buna rubber used under the teflon seal, compresses so much. Our 2000 M52TU with 18k miles already had issues and the old seals were hardened. The new viton rubber is the solution. The procedure also allows a new valve cover gasket so this is added preventative maintenance all rolled into one.

The biggest improvement has been cold idle and when the a/c is on in the summer. Without the bottom end and mid-range torque, you have to shift at a much higher point.
 
#4 ·
Thanks for the replies. Gives me hope for a better driving experience, though I enjoy the heck whenever I'm behind the Z3 wheel.

Not an expensive DIY repair but one to challenge my skillset. I'm gonna order the Beisan kit and round up/borrow some tools for the adventure.:D
 
#5 ·
Thanks for the replies. Gives me hope for a better driving experience, though I enjoy the heck whenever I'm behind the Z3 wheel.

Not an expensive DIY repair but one to challenge my skillset. I'm gonna order the Beisan kit and round up/borrow some tools for the adventure.:D
Good decision. Post up any questions you may have; I did this over the course of a few days, disassembling while waiting for the kit and gaskets, coolant and Drei bond 1209. I also used all new bolts, because they are cheap.
 
#7 · (Edited)
I've been waiting to do this on my 2001 3.0i with 102k miles. I very occasionally have rpm fluctuating idle, noise during cold idle and hesitatation when accelerating aggressively from standstill (i.e. bogs)--all telltale signs from what I've read.

Other than the valve cover gasket and spark plugs, anything else I should take care of while I'm doing the seals? It's a weekend car, but working on slowly refreshing everything back to new.

I was always thought this car would have more low-end torque (second-hand purchase) , hope this resolves it as others have experienced.
 
#8 ·
I did Vanos repair as a preventative measure on E39 2001 530i. Definitely worth it.
 
#9 ·
Just did Vanos Seals on my M54b30. Did it to fix p0014 code and it fixed the code. Performance wise, it is like night and day. Just follow the Besian procedures exactly and you shouldn't have any issues. Seems more intimidating than it actually is.
Just grab a six pack and spend one of these nice spring Saturdays doing it. Hardest part for me was just getting the fan clutch off.
 
#21 ·
Just did Vanos Seals on my M54b30. Did it to fix p0014 code and it fixed the code. Performance wise, it is like night and day. Just follow the Besian procedures exactly and you shouldn't have any issues. Seems more intimidating than it actually is.
Just grab a six pack and spend one of these nice spring Saturdays doing it. Hardest part for me was just getting the fan clutch off.
*laughs in electric fan😂
 
#10 ·
Worth it indeed...although, I wouldn't even ask "Is it worth it?" It's NECESSARY! As mentioned in previous posts, the oem crappy Buna rubber will harden and cause the vanos system to malfunction/fail...that is an absolute given, there is no way around it. That being said, the solution to the problem is to replace the seals and o-rings with their PTFE and Viton counterparts...the appropriate materials for the temperatures of a combustion engine.

Also, there's no need to go with a specific manufacturer for the upgrade/replacement parts. I got mine shipped to my door from i6 automotive (a top quality brand who specializes in BMW components) in the UK for less than half the price of what the Beisan "kit" costs. The i6 kit is a complete kit (not just the o-rings and seals like Beisans), and also includes the RTV sealant, and new vanos cylinder cover bolts and washers. You will still need to purchase a vanos gasket and two oil line washers. While you're in there, I'd recommend also replacing the valve cover gaskets, and buying two vanos piston bolts (just in case you strip the originals) and vanos plugs. I got everything, vanos kit plus all of the gaskets, plugs, bolts, etc for $77...and it's all top quality and oem stuff! You just have to know where to get them...there's no need to pay ridiculous prices.

Hope this helps everyone.

Cheers,
-Dan
 
#12 ·
No, I ordered mine from ebay user i6auto, out of the UK, for 19.99 british pounds. The link you attached is from user i6motorworks out of Arizona...whose kit may or may not use top quality or OEM parts, and is twice the price of what I paid for everything!

It looks like i6auto doesn't have the kit I ordered listed on ebay at the moment, but you could just contact them directly and ask for it. Here's the vanos kit I ordered, albeit from a user in on the east coast of the us...pricing is about the same though:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/BMW-Twin-Do...ash=item2a63fff3d8:g:GIAAAOSwdU1W9MDX&vxp=mtr

The rest of the gaskets, washers, bolts etc., I sourced from Pelican Parts in California.

You can get EVERYTHING for less than $80!!! You just have to do the homework and searches.

Good luck
 
#13 ·
So I ordered seals from Beisan, $65 includes 2 day shipping. ECS Tuning for the gasket, bolts and oil line sealing rings for $24.88 includes 2 day shipping. Auto store for Ultra Black RTV at $8.43 (BMW local racer there highly recommended this silicone).

So my total for parts $98.31.
I did pay an addfitional $14.18 for sockets and a wrench I needed.

Not bad for the hoped for performance improvement. I changed the valve gasket in March and the cooling system upgrades earlier this month. Yeah, I shuda done all at the same time, but what can I say, I'm a newbie at all of this. And I enjoy doing the work.:D

Thanks for all the comments. They are invaluable!
I'll update when I have the work completed.
 
#14 ·
When I did mine, I took care of several things at one time. I did the complete cooling system refresh at the same time, while it was all apart. Doing everything took a full day, but I got it done. If you aren't ready for all that yet, consider doing all seals at the same time. I did the Valve Cover gasket, as well as the oil filter gasket which sits between the oil filter housing and the block. It is a common area for a minor leak.
 
#16 ·
Thanks! I got the seats, from an M Roadster, on ebay. And, I custom ordered the tan and black leather from leatherseats.com. They fit perfectly, and I think that it came out really good. They also sent me some extra black leather so I could do the door inserts in matching black. IT was a pretty easy project, and high impact, I think. Looks OEM, but that color combination is not in any of the BMW order books. :) Thanks for the compliment!
 
#18 ·
Vanos seals replaced (got mine from Beisan--Rajaie helped with delay issue), my initial take after only 10 miles:

Much smoother take off, much lesser RPM needed to avoid bogging, wider range of gear power, much less pucker on stop light hills!

Notes:
1) 7 1/2 hours to complete job. Hey, I had to run to the store for another tool..... 'n my mechanic skills 'r questionable.....
2) Ultra black RTV on seams at VANOS actuator and lightly on valve gasket grooves to hold gaskets in place. Killed me, but waited overnight to test run, RTV supposedly cures completely in 24 hours, sorry, could'nt wait that long..No leaks thus far......
3) 6 point 10mm socket (vs 12 point socket) needed to remove valve cover bolt/fasteners. I nearly stripped one using 12 point 10mm socket. Reason for store run:eek:
4) Followed Beisan instruction set fully (had printed copy with me at all times which also supplied torquing measures). Invaluable!

Question:
Anyone who has done this, did you notice any changes after "200 mile break in" that Beisan mentions?

Thanks to all who help on these forums!:D
 
#19 ·
Vanos seals replaced (got mine from Beisan--Rajaie helped with delay issue), my initial take after only 10 miles:

Much smoother take off, much lesser RPM needed to avoid bogging, wider range of gear power, much less pucker on stop light hills!

Notes:
1) 7 1/2 hours to complete job. Hey, I had to run to the store for another tool..... 'n my mechanic skills 'r questionable.....
2) Ultra black RTV on seams at VANOS actuator and lightly on valve gasket grooves to hold gaskets in place. Killed me, but waited overnight to test run, RTV supposedly cures completely in 24 hours, sorry, could'nt wait that long..No leaks thus far......
3) 6 point 10mm socket (vs 12 point socket) needed to remove valve cover bolt/fasteners. I nearly stripped one using 12 point 10mm socket. Reason for store run:eek:
4) Followed Beisan instruction set fully (had printed copy with me at all times which also supplied torquing measures). Invaluable!

Question:
Anyone who has done this, did you notice any changes after "200 mile break in" that Beisan mentions?

Thanks to all who help on these forums!:D
After a couple of hundred miles, the engine got a bit more quiet and the low-end power picked up (winter job for me). Our car wouldn't hold cold idle, so the seals were farther off from what you had described.
 
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