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Technic PnP :: Stereo (no OEM amp) PnP harness

30K views 86 replies 18 participants last post by  Technic 
#1 ·
The MY2010-on 1- and 3-Series standard sound system was downgraded from a 10-speaker, separate OEM amp to a 6-speaker, no OEM amp system. So adding an aftermarket amp requires cutting the wires in the back of the OEM HU or cutting the speaker wires either at the speaker themselves or under the carpet.

This PnP harness eliminates that hassle and the damage to your OEM wiring by directly interfacing with the OEM Quadralock connector in the back of the OEM HU and producing a cable extension for the connection of an aftermarket amplifier in the trunk without cutting any OEM wires.



Complete harness includes:

- OEM Quadralock connectors fully populated (max of 40 wires) to connect between the OEM HU and the OEM Quadralock in the car
- A 12V relay pre-wired to provide an OEM remote turn on signal for the amp(s). The new amp will turn on when a door/trunk is opened and will turn off in about 2 minutes after the door/trunk is closed and the car is off, just like all OEM amps.
- 15' cable extension with each wire labeled to the inputs/remote signal of the aftermarket amp
- 15' cable extension with each wire labeled from the aftermarket amp outputs back to the OEM HU.

Notes:

- this harness is currently only for the OEM HU. In the next few weeks I will have a longer harness for the iDrive (same price) which facilitates the installation in such vehicles so equipped.

- this harness is designed to add a 4-channel amplifier to the Stereo system as is. If the idea is to add a 6-channel amp or to bi-amp the front speakers and the woofers separately then new wires need to be added from the amp to the woofers. These wires are not included.

To power the woofers separately -as in replacing the woofers with SWS-8- the OEM woofer connector does not have to be cut, just tape it under the carpet and run new wires from the amp to the woofers. My harness will route the front channels of the new amp to the front doors without an issue as the woofers are connected in parallel to the front doors.

Therefore, adding an amp will be completely reversible without any ill effect to the OEM wiring as long as these instructions are followed and the amp output is not in excess of the OEM wiring (20-18AWG) capacity.

- if your car is equipped with the MOST (fiber optic) ring you must transfer the MOST connector from the OEM Quadralock to the new Quadralock harness in the same exact slot. Make sure that it locks into place.

Price is $65 shipped in the USA. One year warranty against defects; warranty voided if Quadralock harness is modified in any way. PM for details... :thumbup:
 
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#37 ·
....and what does PM stand for as far as contacting the right person to make the purchase of the harness. its for an '08 535i. im looking to replace the door speakers with (4" polk), tweeters (polk), under seat subs (sws-8), rear deck (4" polk), and add 2 L7 10" sub, use one 5 channel alpine amp and a hifonics brutus 1300 watt rms amp
 
#39 ·
Technic or anyone else out there that can help me.
I have this harness from Technic and it is very high quality(thanks man) I installed it yesterday and linked it all up with my Boss PH4.400 Phantom amp but now have the annoying alternator whine. I guess this is caused from bad earthing.

So my question is where is the best place to earth on my E60 '2005'??

Thanks Guys
 
#53 ·
HI,

I have a standard professional HU in my 320I e90 2007, with 6 speakers.
VIN VA44144 .

I want to power a new set of door speakers and to replace the under-seat woofers and to power them also.

I don't want to replace the rear speakers and I don't need to power them.

Is it possible with your kit?

What is the max RMS power that the OEM wire supporting?

BEST REGARDS
 
#55 · (Edited)
First post here and glad I finally found some intuitive information on OEM audio upgrades. My 2011 328i does not have an amplifier. On the left hand side of the trunk is what looks to be a CD jewel case holder? I'm guessing if there was an amp there the cover would be flat instead of the compartment my car has.

Given that, does your harness run from the speaker outputs on the HU back, to an aftermarket amp high level inputs, then back up to the OEM speaker connections? I'm bummed that I don't have at least the HiFi amp to make the upgrade path easier.

Is the non-HiFi HU 4 or 6 channels? There's no tweeters in the system but still has the under seat sub woofers.
 
#57 · (Edited)
Think I may have posted in the wrong thread previously. (Reposting here and deleting my incorrect post)

I recently purchased a 2010 328i with base, 6 speaker system to replace an older E90 that was equipped with the L7 system. Needless to say, the audio system in my newer E90 is subpar by comparison. My goal is to better the sound quality of the car. (Technic, I PM'd you a bit earlier regarding the harness)

My upgrade plan is as follows:

Retain stock HU
Add Technic harness to get easy access to full-range, stock signal from HU
Add a JL Audio CL-441DSP Cleansweep to flatten the stock EQ'd signal
Add a JL Audio CL-SSI to sum channels (unsure if this is necessary. Suggestions?)
Add a JL Audio XD600/6 (power front doors, underseats, rear deck)
Add Focal IFBMW-S (mid/tweeter) to the front doors
Add Focal IFBMW-C (coaxial) to the rear deck
Add Earthquake SWS-8xi (in stock underseat enclosures)
Add MB Quart RAA1000 (reuse/currently own. power sub in trunk)
Add JL Audio 10" sub enclosure to trunk (reuse/currently own)

How does this look? Am I missing anything? Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated!
 
#58 ·
According to Focal, the Focal IFBMW-S are designed for the non-OEM amp systems ("Stereo" in BMW-speak). This means that a correcting-signal processor (Cleansweep, DSP) for the front OEM HU heavily-EQ outputs may not be required.

No summing required in the Stereo system as long as the rear OEM HU outputs are used exclusively for the rear speakers; rear outputs are high passed at the OEM HU. The front outputs are full range.
 
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