This DIY applies to X5 E70 with third row seats. My 2013 SUV has M-sport pkg with auto-leveling (air springs) and sport suspension. This procedure should take about an hour. All torque specs are from the official BMW X5 E70 manual. The interior trim removal for a regular E70 (no third row) may or may not be as simple.
Tools:
21mm socket ½" drive (for bottom shock bolt)
18mm socket (for top shock bolt)
6mm allen socket (to remove and torque top nut)
18mm box wrench (to hold top nut)
3" 3/8" and 6" ½" drive extensions
Torque Wrench (35 ft-lb for top bolt and 122 ft-lb for bottom bolt)
>250 ft-lb Impact Wrench (Optional and will make the job much quicker)
Trim Pry bar (preferably plastic)
Jack (to raise SUV slightly to install new shocks)
Flat blade screwdriver and/or pry bar and hammer (to remove and install brake hose clip)
Replacement Shocks:
The shock length for E70 with third row seats is shorter than the regular E70 by about 2". I used KYBs at $70 each on Amazon. The KYB part numbers are 341729 (rear right) and 341730 (rear left). Bilstein and Sachs make replacement shocks from $150-250 each. Interestingly, Sachs list the same shock for third row seat for both sport and non-sport suspension. FYI, BMW factory replacement shocks for third row seat w/ sport suspension cost $400 each!
Testing of Existing Shocks:
(This is NOT a reference test using factory published numbers. It's a relative test to see how the old and new shocks are different.)
Remove one rear shock using procedure below. Using a home weight scale, turn the shock upside down and push down on the piston until it starts to compress. My orig shock w/ 45K miles needed about 30 lbs before compressing. The new KYB needed more than 50 lbs to compress, which means more dampening. I did not measure rebound as I was convinced the new shock will also have a slower rebound rate also. I suppose you could time how long the piston will fully extend itself between the old and new shock to check. The new (KYB) shocks provided a smoother ride and less jolting and juddering over bumps and rough road than the orig factory shocks.
If you decide to buy Bilstein or factory BMW shock, please share the respective measurements for comparison.
Replacement Procedure
Inside car
1. Flip second row seat forward, then flip third row seats up.
2. Pry out luggage tie down plastic cover next to third row seat. Pry front and rear of plastic cover. It will take some force to pull it off the cargo tie down loop.
3. Reach in through tie down loop area and pull up rectangular carpeted trim with fingers. Pry along the edges to help removal if needed. It should pop out quite easily. Check to make sure the three circular plastic clips came out with the trim piece. If not, pry stuck clip from hole in lashing rail (plastic molding) and reattach to carpeted trim piece slot.
4. The top of shock piston w/ 18mm nut is now accessible through lashing rail top hole. (What makes removal simple is it is NOT necessary to remove the shock tower and its three bolts.)
5. Put 18mm socket on top of nut and attach extension from top of hole through lashing rail. Use impact wrench to remove nut. If you don't have an impact wrench, hold nut with 18mm box wrench. Insert 6mm allen socket into piston and turn clockwise to loosen. (The nut is the normal right-handed thread, but you are turning the piston instead which loosens clockwise.) The torque is 35 ft-lb, tight but not extremely tight. You may need a longer (>10" length) box wrench to keep nut from moving.
6. Remove steel plate and orange bumper from piston by feeding them through side hole in lashing rail and set them aside. Note their orientation for reinstallation.
Below car (You may jack SUV up about 4 inches to have better access with wheel still on ground. Leave your key in the house as you don't want the self-leveling air pump to activate.)
1. Use screwdriver or pry bar to remove metal clip clamping brake hose to shock. Before careful not to nick or break rubber brake hose. Note clip orientation (which side is up) for reinstallation.
2. Use 21mm socket with ½" drive and impact wrench (or wrench with extension) to remove bottom shock bolt. Torque spec is 122 ft-lb, which is pretty tight if removing w/o impact wrench. Be careful not to have old shock fall on you.
3. Pull old shock out rearward and downward.
4. If the upper orange bumper and tube metal spacer are not on top of the black dust cover of old shock, look and reach up to pull them off the shock tower from below. They come off easily.
Shock Installation:
1. Jack SUV up about 4 inches with wheel still on ground.
2. Reassemble inside bumper (cone is upside down), dust cover, upper orange bumper, and tube metal spacer on new shock piston.
3. From bottom of vehicle, insert piston through upper shock tower and align lower hole to control arm. Screw in 21mm bolt all the way in. (Use an impact wrench set on low.) DO NOT torque bolt to spec yet.
4. Lower and remove jack completely. (SUV is now in the standard or loaded position.)
5. From inside vehicle, align piston approximately in center of shock tower. Use a screw driver or allen socket to assist if needed.
6. Reinstall orange bumper on piston and center in shock tower. Note bumper should drop into large hole of shock tower and self align.
7. Reinstall steel circular plate on orange bumper and hand screw 18mm nut.
8. Using 18mm box wrench holding nut, insert 6mm allen socket and turn counter-clockwise to tighten bolt. Torque to 35 ft-lb.
9. From bottom of vehicle, reinsert brake hose holder into slot and reinsert clip. It will take some time to work clip properly back in slot. I used a combination of screw driver and hammer. Be careful not to nick brake hose. (Interestingly, this was the most time consuming step.)
10. From bottom of vehicle, torque shock bolt to 122 ft-lb. I used a 6" extension on 21mm socket to allow the use of my ½" drive torque wrench to tighten behind the tire.
11. Reinstall carpet trim over lashing rail and luggage tie-down cover.
12. Test drive vehicle and YOU ARE DONE!