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Battery registration DIY

160K views 121 replies 69 participants last post by  olesh999 
#1 · (Edited)
you all know that the battery needs to be registered when you replace it , in

these thread i well show you how to register new battery with INPA or toolset32

and this is just for REGISTERING THE SAME SIZE BATTERY

first with INPA









 

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#32 ·
How can I tell if my battery was replaced or not? I bought the car used, and I had he vin ran at BMW and it was recommended that the battery be replaced back in sept 2012 but if it was done it want done at the dealership per my friend the tech that ran my VIN.... He isn't local for me to say hey but chance can you check my battery, so I can verify it it was replaced or not?
 
#33 ·
Just checked because my battery is due for replacement as the blower fan function speed flowincreases and decreases depending on the distance I drive, I just removed my battery to find the AH rating to order a replacement and found the battery has the date of build stamped on the - negative post, mine has a date of 30th week 2005, 90 AH/900cca
 

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#34 ·
So if my battery needs to be replaced I can basically get my own battery and then I can have it registered in a couple days or something?
 
#40 ·
Yep can confirm the following below is correct. I had the Dealer replace my original battery as car was delivered in late 2005 with a early 2013 battery in identical size 90AH / 900CCA and we did the registration via their scan tool to let the power module to not continue to overcharge the new battery and allow it to slowly increase the charge rate overtime over the battery's life. Cost was AUD$165.00 labour and AUD$600.00 trade price for the battery.
 

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#41 ·
So it looks like my battery had been replaced with an aftermarket one from like autozone. How can I verify if it's been coded to the car? Is there a way to check it on my own? Or does it need to go to a dealership type place?

Hopefully I can verify on my own
 
#42 ·
Error Messages from INPA and Toolset 32

I am trying to register the battery on my 2008 750Li but i get error messages when I try either option shown here.

With INPA (using INPA ) I get "group file:D_POW.SYS-0012: Identification error"
With ToolSet32 I get "runtime error '339': Component 'richtxt32.ocx or one of its dependencies not correctly registered: a file is missing or invalid"

I am able to go in and see car error codes, I can see the A/C settings and see them change in real time, so I'm a bit lost.
 
#47 ·
Battery Register

Forgive my ignorance, but I wanted to know if there was a special tool needed to register the battery, or if you somehow do it through the dashboard unit. I am receiving a transmission fault error and am hoping the battery will take care of this (as others have indicated it resolved their issues).
 
#48 ·
ok I just bought an 06 750li. coming from an e39 I don't know what the hell toolset is or how u get it or how it connects to ur car or anything about it to be honest with you. so can someone plz give me a general description of this thing? I just got a new battery and im guessing I need to do this. I have warning lights in my dash like, park brake, dsc, check engine, and like 3 other ones I don't even know. maybe this has something to do with it
 
#51 ·
Does anyone know if not registering a battery may cause the AC compressor not to work?

Note: I have already completely replaced my compressor, evaporator valve and pressure switch and the symptoms are the same. If I jump the compress from the battery or tell INPA to turn on the compressor it blows cold air, but by itself it doesn't...

Reading this post, I'm wondering if when I replaced the battery last fall if by not registering the battery to the car might this be causing my electrical system to act dumb.

For example, at times I start my car always with the same key and all of my personal settings are gone on my radio and chair. I shut the car off and start it at another time and WA LA it's all back to normal.

Also, I get a message "Rear Light Tag Light" is malfunctioning at times. I have replaced both lamps and they work fine. but at times I still get the message.

Has anyone seen this? Perhaps it's a different amperage battery and the system is preventing the compressor from starting so as not to damage it????
 
#52 ·
Does anyone know if not registering a battery may cause the AC compressor not to work?

Note: I have already completely replaced my compressor, evaporator valve and pressure switch and the symptoms are the same. If I jump the compress from the battery or tell INPA to turn on the compressor it blows cold air, but by itself it doesn't...

Reading this post, I'm wondering if when I replaced the battery last fall if by not registering the battery to the car might this be causing my electrical system to act dumb.

For example, at times I start my car always with the same key and all of my personal settings are gone on my radio and chair. I shut the car off and start it at another time and WA LA it's all back to normal.

Also, I get a message "Rear Light Tag Light" is malfunctioning at times. I have replaced both lamps and they work fine. but at times I still get the message.

Has anyone seen this? Perhaps it's a different amperage battery and the system is preventing the compressor from starting so as not to damage it????
Yes, I afraid it can have adverse effects
 
#55 · (Edited)
why battery registration is crucial

This is what I learned, the hard way, via a trip from hell:

The battery charging, like most other systems on these cars, is computer controlled, hence they are demanding of more information and are very sensitive to proper voltages.

Specifically, two aspect needed for the smart chargers within, are the battery type and the CCA rating. Absorbed glass mat batteries have differing charge rates (profiles) and discharge profiles than traditional lead-acid batteries. Either type can be profiled in the car but some shops report strange problems with non-AGM types.

Our '05 745Li refused to blow on high, except on defrost. The problem was cured with a new AGM battery, despite the 'old' lead/acid being rather new and registered to the car, with mileage when done, stored in the car's computer.

As a protection strategy, the car will "load shed" under given circumstances, two of which are dropping system voltage and rising coolant temperature. What system is shed (shut off) is prioritized; first being (in my case) minor volume changes or pops in the left audio channel, progressing within minutes, to ABS warning, Stability control warning, transmission in protective mode, dash light dimming, then engine shutdown via EFI, etc. I saw all this recur withing a 5 minute timeframe +/-. The car will lock in a high gear in the trans protect mode, perhaps making it impossible to climb small inclines.

Also, the car locks in park with E-brake set, when shutdown, having towing implications. There is a release handle, difficult to find, under the dash, above the driver's left foot (US) accessed thru a keyed cover. Pulling the cord, releases both, allowing the car to roll (ensure it is secured otherwise, if needed). Now is a good time to know exactly where to find it, as not all tow truck drivers are aware. One used a jumper box to start my car; needed to shift from Park.

Given the above, I learned why the battery type and rating is important, similar to why my old-school battery chargers are unsuitable for AGM batteries, outside of jump starting. Some independent shops know the above, many do not. Some prefer BMW brand, perhaps b/c of ignorance, but I have seen good result from non-BMW brands of high quality. The Palm Desert shop that replaced the L/A with AGM did not reregister, probably causing many headaches on my recent road trip.

Sadly, BMW provides us with virtually no information about charging state (voltage) until the computer-generated idiot lights begin. Enroute, I finally rigged up an indicator to read accessory plug voltage via the newly acquired DVM. Instant info was there, telling me (and a good technician) that the system was not charging properly, post-'fix' and after a road test indicated effective repair. That same "rig" was crucial to my knowing the system was not slowly approaching shutdown, and that headlights and other added loads were being borne by the alternator. The plug with two wires cost <$3.50 at a truck stop where I performed a full recharge. Simply working the DVM probes into the plug's leads, then wrapped with electrical tape, proved an invaluable tool. Such devices, professionally made, are available.

I will never take a long trip again without jumper cables, a digital volt-ohm-meter and the plug for cockpit readings.

FWIW, the onset of load shedding is at 12.8vDC while normal running voltage is 14.1 +/-.
 
#57 ·
Just make sure when replace the battery ues the boster to give a power going on the terminal so u don't have registered to the car I just replace my battery I was gonna do it myself but I pay 30 bucks and the guy did it for me pick up the battery from auto zone . Before he disconnect the battery I so him put the booster on the terminal so my car is fine bmw 750i

Sent from BimmerApp mobile app
 
#58 ·
Just make sure when replace the battery ues the boster to give a power going on the terminal so u don't have registered to the car I just replace my battery I was gonna do it myself but I pay 30 bucks and the guy did it for me pick up the battery from auto zone . Before he disconnect the battery I so him put the booster on the terminal so my car is fine bmw 750i

Sent from BimmerApp mobile app
A little hard to understand everything you said but if the guy you paid $30 to did not register your battery after installing it your car might not be fine for as long as you hope.
 
#62 ·
Thanks for the valuable info above but; Where is this info found??? Is this stuff located on the car itself and if so where?? Do I need a laptop and some type of cord to hookup in order for this to be found? I'm trying to learn how to do this myself without having to go into my INDY as he's charging too much. What do I do and what do I need? Thanks much!
 
#66 ·
So if I buy the inpa cable and software download on eBay I can register the battery by following these steps correct? Or do I need something else too?

Thx
 
#67 ·
Initially I did have problems downloading onto my puter but I contacted the seller and he gave me another site which I could download (free site) (window.net) info which enabled me to see everything from the software. Seems to work. I'll get back with you and let you know if it actually registers the car.
 
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