I moved my car one day from my driveway to my neighbors driveway. The car started and drove fine. The car was fine! Well when I went back to move the car back to my driveway, it acted like it want to start, but quickly turned off. I tried to restart the car and all the Instrument lit up. Anyway, it was the starter. After putting the car in neutral and pushing it back into my driveway, I disconnected the negative battery cable. Installed the starter and changed out the hoses that ran to the Oil Separator. This process took about 3 weeks. Battery still disconnected. It took this long because I had to find the best deal on my parts and order them. Well, after putting everything back together, I started the car. It hesitated for about 3-5 seconds then started. it ran sluggish but Idle off fine. I thought I was good to go and ready to ride. NOPE! I press the gas pedal and it had a serious lag and the "TRANSMISSION MALFUNCTION" Wheel came up and the message on the screen says some about the gear can be engaged without press the brake. WTH! The car Idles fine and drives fine, but the transmission is in the safe mode. It won't switch gears. I do remember while putting the manifold back in, I released some of the pressure from the fuel line. Took the car to AutoZone and Advanced Auto (Cleared the codes there, I did, Not them) to see what code could be pulled. These are the codes P1727,P0335, P0700. They were erased and came right back. I also had my battery checked to see If that was the issue, but it checked out fine (12.6 volts, 96% charged). Rechecked all my connections and it is all good. Please Help! WHAT CAN I DO NEXT? I don't wanna take it anywhere until I have tried everything possible first.
ur alternator may be starting to fail.. not charging for seconds at atime. will throw the trany malfuntion.. i kept getting that code for weeks... battery checked out good.. think about changing ur alternator.. check the posts, theres alot of em here that describe ur issue i just went threw that.. to make a long story short.. changed the alternator, problem was solved
Explore the option of having the alternator rebuilt. Look for an auto electrical shop. Typically, alternator rebuild includes checking/replacing the bearings, brushes and/or voltage regulator. Or, look for rebuilt alternator with warranty. You should find one for less than $300.
On a N52 engine, it's relatively easy to remove the alternator; drop the drive belt, remove the air box, remove the 4 bolts holding the alternator, disconnect one-wire-connector on the alternator and remove the nut that's holding the positive cable. Careful, alternator is quite heavy. One of the idler pullies is attached to the alternator assembly. You can replace that idler pulley if it was never replaced.
i bought mine at BMAautoparts .com for 285.00 bucks,,, new Valeo.. a rebuilt was much cheaper.. i went new cause on my 545 its a pain to replace. if ur alt is easy to get to.. then rebuilt would b a good option.. use the xtra cash for new belts
Went by the Stealership today and they took my key. The key told them everything wrong. The code they pulled was 00307, " Transmission Fault". Had the battery and Alternator checked at AutoZone again, they both checked out good. I'm setting an appointment to have the battery checked by the manufacturer, " Douglas Battery". I'll update you. Oyeah, when I went to the Stealership, the printout they gave me showed the battery voltage was good. The young guy that started working with me started to explain what the fault was, but an older guy kinda hushed him. Anyway, he was talking about a gear selector switch. The cause may have been someone trying to put the car in park while the car was moving. I don't remember doing anything like that. I did have to put the car in neutral to get back into my yard. But, I'm pay the 125 to have computer diagnostic done.
Went by the Stealership today and they took my key. The key told them everything wrong. The code they pulled was 00307, " Transmission Fault". Had the battery and Alternator checked at AutoZone again, they both checked out good. I'm setting an appointment to have the battery checked by the manufacturer, " Douglas Battery". I'll update you. Oyeah, when I went to the Stealership, the printout they gave me showed the battery voltage was good. The young guy that started working with me started to explain what the fault was, but an older guy kinda hushed him. Anyway, he was talking about a gear selector switch. The cause may have been someone trying to put the car in park while the car was moving. I don't remember doing anything like that. I did have to put the car in neutral to get back into my yard. But, I'm pay the 125 to have computer diagnostic done.[/QUOTE
How does the car drive ,,? When the tranny malfunction pops up does it get stuck in watever gear ur in??
The car drives fine in the gear it is stuck in. On a cold start, the throttle hardly responds. Then sluggish. But, once I'm going, I'm good. It idles good. The dash has has the CEL illuminated and the message on my screen. The little hazard symbol is on.
I have read where posters can pullover and turn there car off then back on and the Malfunction will go away. Mine doesn't. I had the codes cleared and it came right back.
That young tech is onto something, it sounds like a switch/sensor. I think someone had similar problem not too long ago. I'd search thi sforum if I were you. GL
BMW gave the impression that it is near the gear shift. Other than that idk. I checked and double checked all wire connections before tightening the intake manifold down.
The limp-mode and "gear can be engaged without pressing brake" are somewhat related.
First the "gear can be engaged without pressing brake" issue:
There are two locking systems on the gear shift lever for 2004-2007 E60s, and the solenoid operated lock is only operational when the engine is running.
The first is a cable linking the ignition lock to the gear shift lever. The key can only be removed when the gear shift lever is in park. Moving the gear shift lever to park also operates a cable connected to the mechatronics transmission to lock the transmission output shaft. Conversely, the gear shift lever can only be moved out of park if the key is inserted and turned to a least the first position.
A second locking system is employed when the car is started and the shift lever is in the P or N position. A solenoid in the transmission mechatronic unit sends a signal to the transmission control module that then sends a voltage to a locking solenoid in the center console to move a solenoid and pin to a locked position, preventing the gear shift lever from being moved. When the brake is depressed the voltage returns to zero and the solenoid/pin retracts.
Either the mechatronics unit is not sending the signal or the TCM (transmission control module) is not forwarding the voltage.
The second issue "limp mode" can be a number of things, including low transmission fluid level, which might also be causing the gear shift locking solenoid to malfunction.
I would check your transmission fluid level first. If you haven't serviced it in a while I would consider a drain and fill. If you do it twice (with maybe 100 miles of driving in between) you will have 85% fresh fluid after both drain and fills. Even though the system holds about 11 quarts when you drain the transmission sump you will only get about 6 quarts out as the rest is held in the torque converter.
OK, but the car was only out of commission for about 2 or 3wks. The battery cable from the negative side was disconnected. The car had no codes, no signs of transmission issues, no problems at all. Its like, poof, out of nowhere this thing occurs. It's just frustrating to perform something so simple as changing out a starter, that person that's semi qualified can't even work on their own car! It ran perfect. Thanks for everyone's input! We will figure it out. LMAO to prevent from crying.
I read on a post the that someone had a similar problem. The Stealership installed a new gear shift.
That may have been my situation that you read about. I had the new gear shift installed in early Jan.
Of course, the "Trans. Malfunction" error popped up again Wed night, so into the dealer my 535 went on Thursday morning (yesterday). PuMa case has been opened, and it may need an new transmission. Still waiting to hear from them today as to what the problem is, although they did find some codes (I'll post those when I get them).
was just on another thread,,,,, and it turned out that a bad crankshaft sensor threw the tranny malfuntion error... so it worth a try to look into that
Crankshaft position sensor is located right below the starter [on N52 engine]. Since OP replaced the starter and his problems started after the starter replacement, it's possible he damaged the CPS connector or one of the wires to it. If he wants to replace CPS, he will have to unbolt intake manifold, disconnect crankcase breather/oil separator hoses.
For this very reason, I contemplated replacing CPS on my car when I was replacing the starter one month ago.
That makes alot of sense! Will that sensor throw out the "Transmission Malfunction" warning? I replaced the oil separator hoses. The one on top and the short one on the bottom. All the twisting and turn to get the manifold and starter out and back in, I may have bumped the sensor. This was not an easy job!
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Related Threads
?
?
?
?
?
BimmerFest BMW Forum
11.4M posts
753.1K members
Since 2001
A forum community dedicated to BMW owners and enthusiasts. Come join the discussion about Bimmerfest events, production numbers, programming, performance, modifications, classifieds, troubleshooting, maintenance, and more! Bringing the BMW community together.