I have a 2003 330ci .
I don't really know where to start so here we go .
As i understand all BMW's have a problem with vacuum leaks .
I get a code that says it is running to lean right and left bank.
Did some research and started looking for the leak,i did not smoke it .
I was told to look at the lower boot, to see if there was i tear, and no tear so i checked all hoses . I think the hose elbow that goes to the break box in top of the car was ripped . So i bought one and went to install it . Big mistake! come to find out you have to remove the intake manifold to install . A total bitch , i'm no mechanic .So after three days a lot of research and yelling i got it fixed .Now the car ran fine after that for about 100 miles or a day and a half . Now it wants to die when i start to take off like it is getting to much gas for a second.
It will die, i start it and it starts right up runs fine tell i come to a stop it seems ti idle just fine , right at 600 rpm then it wants to die when i give it a little gas . I,m afraid to drive it for fear it will leave me stranded .
Can anyone give me an idea where to start to look .
Getting the infamous P0171 and/or P0174 codes? If so, do you have short & long-term fuel trim data? There are U-tube videos that will show you how to use the data to help determine the source of the lean codes. Could be vacuum leak(s); could be a problem on the fuel side, which I will comment on in a minute.
Btw, What is this "break box at the top of the car"?
Anyways . . .
1st, check out section 11.6.3 (I think) of the wiki. Lot of good info there.
I've had 2 recent issues ('04 325xi) that might be relevant to your problem. My leaks traced to the DISA O-ring/seal. But probably more relevant: I had a soft-fail of my fuel pump that gave very similar symptoms like what you're having with the rpm & loss of power. Btw, I also had erratic up & down-shifting of the transmission. You notice any of that?
Anyway, recommend look at the fuel pump if you don't find any other leaks. Good luck!
Yes, it's for an E39, but the principle is the same.
How did you come to the conclusion that it needed to be replaced? Other than suspecting that the hose was ripped. Did you check the old part once you go it out?
What is/was the code you got? Have you had the car scanned since the repair? Gary's thought of a soft-fail fuel pump might hold sway since things work fine for a while, then crap out. Can you check the fuel rail pressure?
you are not a mechanic, you don't know how to work on it, so why not take it to a shop and pay for them to fix it for you. There is nothing we can do for you here.
Yes this was the tube i replaced .The hose that comes from the manifold was ripped.
I'm going to have the fuel pressure checked tomorrow.
The infamous P0171 and/or P0174 codes?
Yeah, in your original post, you said, "I get a code that says it is running too lean right and left bank". I was just asking to confirm that you got either a P0171 or P0174 code (system lean, bank 1 or 2, respectively). Infamous, because it is a very common problem with these cars at our mileage/age. We all get them, eventually.
Good move getting the fuel pressure checked. Again, I had the same symptoms when my fuel pump was soft-failing. I was biting my tongue to not scream out, "It's the Fuel Pump!" when I first saw your orig. post. Don't just throw parts at it, though . . do the necessary diagnostics.
- Poolman's canonical thread on battling vacuum leaks on the BMW I6 with lean-condition misfire DTCs (1) & where to find all the vacuum hoses, tubes, pipes, and endcaps in the M54 engine bay (1) & where are all the fuel injection o-rings (1) & how to locate all the o-rings (1) and gaskets (1) & where in the USA to get new vacuum tubing & end caps (1) & what SAE sizes to get for all the metric M54 engine vacuum tubes, hoses, pipes, and caps (1) & how do we correct the F-connector errors in the realoem diagrams (1) & where do some of those hard-to-locate vacuum hoses end (1) & what is the sorely needed clarification on how the M54 CCV vacuum port works on the M52 CCV valve connection to the fuel pressure regulator connection (1) & how to make, borrow, or buy lean-condition misfire test tools to test for vacuum leaks & lean conditions (1)
I just had them run diagnostics . The old codes that were saying PO172 And PO174 are no longer there . But now i get PO505 ,PO102 .And PO344. Don't know what to say !!
I just had them run diagnostics . The old codes that were saying PO172 And PO174 are no longer there . But now i get PO505 ,PO102 .And PO344. Don't know what to say !!
Anyone driving a 1996+ auto needs to spend > $30 for an ELM327 Bluetooth code reader and another $5 for Torque Pro (Android), not sure of the new Apple app. It's easy to use, and even if you don't turn your own wrenches, you can at least start a diagnosis and maybe thwart a panic attack when the engine light comes on. You don't have to run to the Autoparts store or a mechanics to have them run the codes.
How much are you willing to spend at the moment and what are your mechanical abilities?
I know you don't want to spend much, and you have already stated that you're not very mechanical, but you were able to remove and replace the intake.....
How much are you willing to spend at the moment and what are your mechanical abilities?
I know you don't want to spend much, and you have already stated that you're not very mechanical, but you were able to remove and replace the intake.....
The car runs fine for a little while,then starts to give me a little hesitation when i take off.
Your right i don't want to spend a lot of money .I just our over 1500.00 into it . Running out of cash fast .
Yes i used to work on cars back in the 80s But a lot has changed . Thank for the compliment.
There are a lot of reasons that the lean codes you originally posted can appear. I had them when my valve cover gasket blew. It was sucking air as well as spewing oil. If you are just tearing things apart without knowing what's going on you are going to waste more time and money. Unless you can clearly see what the problem is I would recommend a smoke test to find what is exactly wrong.
It seems that I either fall back to a bad MAF or GM5, but the new codes seem to point to MAF. My MAF acted up once the engine bay/unit warmed up and there is no good way to test them other than replacing it with a known, good unit.
I'm not saying to run out and buy one because A. Need a second opinion. B. They are pricey if you/I are wrong.
I am on my phone, so I don't have access to my bookmarks, but is it a stick or auto?
This is the lower CCV to oil dipstick return hose. This is the one that usually fails and cracks from heat stress. Causes all sorts of vacuum leaks which cause all kinds of crazy codes, just like you're getting. These particular engines do not do well with vacuum leaks so you really need to look at all the usual suspects as detailed in the wiki: valve cover gasket, ccv hoses, brake booster vacuum hose, all the little 1/4" vacuum lines, etc.
Here's a quick video I shot of an engine outside of a car on the ground in a junkyard so you can really get a good idea of what you're looking for:
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