I know some one that has drilled and slotted rotors and pads for a 95 M3 for sale and I want to know if they will fit a 93 318i? I would think they are interchangable except the DIA. of the rotor. I did see that the part number is different between the two on realoem. They are both E36's, If one could get the calipers from the same car would it work?
just stick with blanks. unless you're using your car for track use only drilled and slotted are no good. they do more harm than good to your car from what i understand
Ok thanks but I do alot of around town driving (probably a 100 miles or more around town) and thought the drilled and slotted rotors would work better to dissapate the heat and I do sometimes get alittle crazy on some of the back roads a round here.
Nope, they won't work. Not only do the ///Ms use different rotors, but they use different calipers and different spindles.
Aside from all that, drilled and/or slotted rotors are actually worse than blanks on street cars. You don't generate anywhere near enough heat during street driving to necessitate drilled/slotted rotors. Many people say that you actually increase stopping distances when using drilled/slotted rotors on street cars, because you reduce the amount of available braking surface without increasing the size of the rotor. OEM BMW blanks work awesome at the track, so there is absolutely no reason why they wouldn't be beyond adequate for aggressive street driving. All this on top of the fact that drilled/slotted rotors chew through pads at a quick rate, and you've got your answer: stick with blanks.
Exactly, if you want higher braking performance, you need to be looking at different pads. I know all the really aggressive/track drivers in the car club around here run Hawk pads, but there are plenty of other equally good pads out there.
If you need performance past that, which you more than likely will not, you'd have to start looking at a big brake kit.
I canceled thinking I wouldn't be able to fix it before Thursday, but by some miracle I was able to fix it and now I can't re-register... I sent an email out to the track event registrar, but it's not looking good at this point. Unfortunately, you can't just show up to the track, sign papers, pay money and hit the track. We do it all through MotorosportReg.com, with concrete registration open and close dates. We'll see what pans out with the registrar. I'd be seriously sad if I missed this track day in the end, because the next one isn't until JUNE.
Dude that sucks, hopefully you get it back if not just come down to Utah and we'll take our bimmers to millermotorsports park. Now this is an awesome track. The straight is some where around 1/2 mile or more turn one is increasing radius turn and it just gets better from there. You know World Super Bike is just round the corner.
They won't fit but u should buy sport pins and cross drilled rotors if u like to stop heavy they are great ....... don't believe any of these guys that say its a waste, they don't know what they are talking about
Dude I'm not sure you know what your talking about, drum brakes don't have nearly as much stopping pressure as disk. Do you know what the slots and holes are for? There are 2 reasons. Please explain....I would love to hear your intelligent answer.
Certainly the argument Here is drilled rotors arnt worth it, witch is,just rubbish .... the point is the drill and or sloted or both dissipate heat faster , people often say 'less contact surface ' this is wrong ..... drum brakes have the most contact surface of all brakes .... and that's why trucks use drums and not rotors
Bottom line fact , and you can blow it off if you choose ... drilled rotors stop better 24/7 dissipate heat faster and sometimes help with pad life ( depending of brand )
I know this is,going be hard for some of you to grasp, but that sucks for you
And I got a good laugh at your comment about drums not having as much stopping pressure. That clearly let's me know you don't know what your talking about.... real fact, drum brakes have thee most stopping pressure ....
Because of the air system that they use. If you notice on some newer trucks they are going to disk brakes because they work better think about it, isn't the size of pads smaller than shoes? And the reason for this is? The reason they use an air system is because they develop so much heat that most brake fluids can't handle it, except maybe silicone fluid but that is expensive.
You never answered the second reason for the slots and drilled holes in rotors. One of the biggest reasons why trucks still use drum brakes is maintenance cost.
Wow dude , go back to school trucks use drums for contact surface and yes some newer trucks use rotors @ the front ....but u show me a rig on the road with rotors and ill show u a truck that doesn't carry a load,
Drilled is for heat dissipation of the rotors , slotted is for the pads
Cross drilled rotors are great If your a heavy footed stopper,
I have sport pins and cross drilled on all of my bmws. you will find that BMW has a sh itty bushing kits so the upgrade will do some justice for even ware and full use of all your pads best of luck
Cross drilled rotors are great If your a heavy footed stopper,
I have sport pins and cross drilled on all of my bmws. you will find that BMW has a sh itty bushing kits so the upgrade will do some justice for even ware and full use of all your pads best of luck
The other reason is cleaning keeping dust small rocks and water out hence the reason they put them on motocross bikes and street bikes plus rotors give you the option to have floating rotors for quicker response. I agree with you with respect that they reduce heat faster (drilled and slotted) but I also agree that the more undisturbed braking surface you have for most application the better they work.
I would stay away from drilled and slotted, IME they tear thur pads quicker , I run brembo and akibono
The sport pin kit replaces the rubber bushing with a tight mechined piece of I believe its. Ammco ( type of metal close to brass) and a new pin, you just,pry out your rubber bushing and slide the new part in then keep in place with a c clip bav,auto has em they make em for almost every BMW, I've got it on my 540 my e30 and my 36
Wow, this thread really went downhill. Burning, you seem to think we know nothing, yet you told someone else in another thread that his '97 E36 was OBD1 and now you gave more bad info here...
Go back to school guy , u cant learn everything about cars by reading. u need to put 10, years under a lift b4 u can talk to me like that, that's like the parts guy telling that part doesn't exist
I agree and think we are done here. It seems the OP got his question answered already.
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