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Not your normal oil change

37K views 134 replies 31 participants last post by  MalibuMafiaV 
#1 · (Edited)
So I am still chasing oil consumption. I now know my oil control rings are the cause after leakdown and compression tests show the engine is fine from that regard. A few months back I used Lubro Moly Pro Line engine flush and the consumption got a lot better (1qt every 1200 miles vs 1qt every 400) for a short time. Then it would go back to normal. I THOUGHT it was CVV related. But a new CVV didn't help. I finally consulted a 25 year BMW master mechanic (a friend of a friend) and he said "is it a M54 3.0?" "Oh yea, that is a real common issue, the oil control rings get caked with crap over the years".

He said to do 5 oil changes with 6qts dino, 16oz of sseafoam (one bottle) and 1/2qt trans fluid. Run it 250 miles, repeat for 5 cycles. He said he has had good success with this method. But, my wife and son got in their accident right in the middle of my second change and because we were down to one car, I had to dump it and go back to synthetic since we only had the one car and I was racking up 100 miles a day between hospital trips and errands and such.

So then I installed my catch can. That alone brought consumption down to about 1 quart per 750 miles.

Today, I decided to go about the routine again to see if I can get the catch can mod to give me over 1200 miles per quart. So did the Lubro Moly Flush again (directions say idle for 10 minutes, I idled for 10, fast idled at 2000rpm for 10 minutes), dumped the oil and went with Penzoil and the required seafoam/ATF concoction.

We shall see if 5 runs (1000 miles) does anything for me. After I am going to go with Castrol Syntec 5w50. I know it is heavy and not BMW spec, but I have 201k miles and change my oil around 5000 miles now. Besides, BMW doesn't recommend oil for OLD, hard worked engines so who cares.

One down side to all this, my damn driver side control arm bushing is bad. Has a small puddle of fluid in the recess and that side of my aluminum plate has some fluid on it too. :mad: For reference, they are Lemforder and have less than 40,000 miles on them.
 

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#62 · (Edited)
Another form of "German Castrol" is the 0w30 stuff. But the new 10w40 and 5w40 weight Castrol Edge oils also meet LL-01 BMW spec.

if you can't get seafoam, can you get marvel mystery oil?

It works slower (it's less solvent, more petroleum), but might work. You could also try Rislone. If you can order Kreen I would say that stuff would be ideal too. Won't need near as much though, it is STRONG!

Keep in mind, if your car doesn't use a lot of oil, my method is likely not needed. If my motor didn't burn oil I would do a Lubro Moly flush every other oil change and call it good. Remember, color isn't a good way to judge the condition of an oil. But in my case, it would look black after just a few hundred miles, that coupled with 1qt per 400 miles consumption was enough to spur me to drastic action.

Lastly, the top of my engine also looked spotless. But my oil rings were still so caked up they weren't doing their job.
 
#64 ·
Been following your progress on ZHPMafia and I'm thoroughly impressed!

I'm definitely going to try what you've been doing as I've been apart of the 1qt/1,000 miles club for quite some time now. Keeping my current oil clean for a follow-up analysis by Blackstone Labs, but after that I'll definitely be trying to follow your footsteps.
 
#66 ·
I'm testing my theory of cleaner oil = less consumption. As noted, I went 1000 more miles with 0w30 German Castrol before needing to top off.

One other thing I've noticed since changing to this oil is suspiciously quiet engine starts in cold weather. Since the car was new I'd have this horrid screeching when starting the car after it sat for a few days in cold weather. By cold, I mean 40f or under as I live in a mild climate. Formerly thought to be a screeching belt, tensioner or pulley... apparently it wasn't! Thing is, I replaced all those things around 30k miles ago and the screeching problem didn't go away. I've just been living with it... of course when it was under warranty I complained to the servicing dealers and they, everyone together now, couldn't duplicate the problem.

I'm going to do a UOA (used oil analysis) when I do my next change and compare to the previous one. My engine has always showed higher than normal wear, so I'm curious to see if the numbers go down.

Interesting experiment!
 
#67 ·
Thanks for bumping this, I need to update. After 1500 miles my car started to consume oil again. Not at the crazy rate as before, but it did eat some. And since it didn't use any in the first 1100 miles or so, it has used about 1/2 qt maybe in 400 miles.

I am going to shock flush it with Lubro Moly again and order some Kreen. I think my rings are just pretty badly gunked. Kreen is supposed to be amazing stuff. So I am about to H-bomb my motor.

At least I no longer have cats that can be clogged by using oil. I will say, it is possible that some is just leaking because I have a pretty wicked rear main leak and an oil pan gasket leak. We shall see.....More to come.
 
#68 ·
How will those solvents affect the pan gasket and rear main? Not meaning the seal material, but maybe any sludge built up?
It seems difficult to accurately measure oil usage with those leaks.
 
#70 ·
Sure. Continues to improve now that I am using Penzoil Euro Ulltra 5w40 (has a ferrari emblem on the bottle). I am averaging 1qt per 1000 miles or so. It tends to burn it faster when I take long trips on the interstate and the car spends a long time at 3400rpm or so (my cruising speed is about 80mph and that is the rpm with the 3.46 diff).

I do have a massive leak on the rear main though. So I could very well be using less than that. I am close to another oil change, I plan to flush it again with the Lubro Moly and go back with the Penzoil again. I'll be interested to see what that does.

But all in all, the catch can and the flush did a good job and I am pleased.
 
#73 ·
Actually, lots of guys on BITOG don't like it. The BEST additive is Kreen from Kano Labs, period. I didn't go autorx because they won't tell you what's in it.

Sent from BimmerApp mobile app
 
#90 · (Edited)
Well one of the best things about the internet when using it to decide how YOU will handle this particular problem is to have access to where different people used DIFFERENT products and methods to solve the same problem. This allows YOU to make an informed decision when comparing the different solutions.

Would I solve the problem he is having with his method or would I use the autorx solution? No idea. Dont have any oil consumption problems on any of my bmw's but if I ever wanted to see what was out there then having these kinds of threads helps me decide when the time comes.

The original poster has already addressed his feelings over the autorx product and why he didn't choose it and that the discussion he started is aimed at covering the results he is experiencing so that he can share those results with others. Not to compare it to other products.

Doesn't seem like a wankfest to me but does seem to have a troll infestation problem at the moment.
 
#91 ·
Well one of the best things about the internet when using it to decide how YOU will handle this particular problem is to have access to where different people used DIFFERENT products and methods to solve the same problem. This allows YOU to make an informed decision when comparing the different solutions.

Would I solve the problem he is having with his method or would I use the autorx solution? No idea. Dont have any oil consumption problems on any of my bmw's but if I ever wanted to see what was out there then having these kinds of threads helps me decide when the time comes.

The original poster has already addressed his feelings over the autorx product and why he didn't choose it and that the discussion he started is aimed at covering the results he is experiencing so that he can share those results with others. Not to compare it to other products.

Doesn't seem like a wankfest to me but does seem to have a troll infestation problem at the moment.
Agree, so best you leave
 
#95 · (Edited)
Should probably update again. So I am at almost 210k miles. Oil consumption is actually still getting better each week as I continue with the Penzoil Euro 5w40. I am at 700 miles since I last added oil and I am at zero usage. That includes quite a bit of interstate driving at 80mph which is roughly 3300 rpm for me. My car used to really drink oil on those types of runs. I think the catch can is a big part of this. The Penzoil is cleaning the rings and the catch can helps keep them clean.

I am at 5000 miles since my last oil change. I will likely change it soon.

But so far, the results are very, very good.

Edit: also should mention what I thought was a massive rear main leak turned out to be the cap on my dipstick tube cracking and leaking. I had a cap where the CVV return line used to go, it got old and brittle over the last 9000'miles I wrapped another one in heat resistant tape and reinstalled, this time with a clamp. I'll see how it holds up. If it still craps out I may try and have it welded closed.



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#98 ·
That's what I thought.

Unless you'd care to explain or back up your contention/speculation about why the catch can may or may not be helping your problem, or what's going on with your engine.

But as I suspect, it's ongoing cyber-postulations of another wanna-be amateur mechanic.

Have fun being insulted if that's what you think, but you took it wrong and derided the help others offered, so this is what you get now.

G'day!
 
#110 ·
Smolck, I'm getting into the conversation a little late, but to expand on your theory of the Pennzoil cleaning the oil rings... I've seen this work as well, and to offer what has worked for me in the past, is to add ATF to the oil and gas tank for 3-4 fill ups. Something on the order of a cup or two to a fresh tank of gas. My theory on this is that it will clean the oil ring from the topside going down. I haven't seen the oil ring on these engines, but on the ones I've rebuilt, there are 2 bearing surfaces on the oil ring. ATF cleans from the top and bottom this way. I'm enjoying the thread, and learning from it.
 
#112 ·
Unfortunately, Smolck sold his ZHP over a year ago (he has 2 kids in college), and he hasn`t been seen around these parts much since then.

As I recall, I think he was able to cut his oil consumption considerably by using these methods.
 
#113 ·
Just wondering what the OP used for a catch can setup?

Is this the way to do it? I too am chasing sudden oil consumption suddenly (750 miles per quart). Car has 200K on it, CCV is rather new, all oil leaks have been resolved, rear main VCG OFG etc

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hTGNHbUDCvM

Just wondering if it's wise to eliminate the CCV all together and put a PCV valve in line as this person did?

Any links to reputable rebuilt BMW engines?
 
#114 · (Edited)
2001 325i with oil consumption ans a seeking idle

Count me in, I took out the cvv valve. I plug the hole in the air distribuation manifold, then ran a piece of 3/8 inch id gas hose from the other end of the manifold to the crankcase vent.
poof!!!
the car hasn't run better since i purchased it last december. the idle doesn't seek and I have vacuum in my crankcase for the first time. It goes swish! when I take the oil cover cap off.

I used this method:
http://www.xoutpost.com/bmw-sav-forums/x5-e53-forum/99551-diy-solution-m54-m52tu-ccv-problems.html
 
#115 ·
Count me in, I took out the cvv valve. I plug the hole in the air distribuation manifold, then ran a piece of 3/8 inch id gas hose from the other end of the manifold to the crankcase vent.
poof!!!
the car hasn't run better since i purchased it last december. the idle doesn't seek and I have vacuum in my crankcase for the first time. It goes swish! when I take the oil cover cap off.

I used this method: http://www.xoutpost.com/bmw-sav-forums/x5-e53-forum/99551-diy-solution-m54-m52tu-ccv-problem
Your link leads to the main XOutpost Forum page, not to any specific thread....
 
#117 ·
Hi,

I am a little late to the party. Based on all the threads I have read so far, I believe I may be on the top tier of oil consuming engines. I own a 2002 e46 330. Since I bought the car used about 3 years ago with 129k on the clock, I’ve only used mobile 1 0w40 ll01 and premium gas. I never really paid attention since I bought it, but I figured I needed to add a quart every maybe 2,000 miles. Since then, the consumption has shot straight up in the last year. My engine currently consumes a quart of oil every 80-100 miles and the odd part is there is no smoke at wot or at any time, even during startup. The only indication that something is wrong is carbon/water spray from exhaust during startup. There is a nice splatter of it behind the car on the garage floor when starting it every morning. To fix the problem I replaced the ofhg, vc gasket, vanos seals, vanos oil line, oil pan gasket and ccv, stopped engine braking(downshifting at higher rpms), all within a couple of months and no change in consumption. I’ve been reading a lot of threads about engine flushing and decarbonizing as a last ditch effort before replacing my engine. For my plan of attack I am currently running 1 ½ quart atf in the crank case and a fuel injector cleaner in the fuel tank at each fill up with some e85 hoping it’s more corrosive properties will help clean, and maybe produce a little more power. I am running this for about 100-200 miles, then doing liquid moly flush, then the dino, seafoam, atf mix a couple times, and installing a catch can. On the dino, seafoam, atf mix, what weight and brand dino oil should I use?
 
#119 ·
Hi,

I am a little late to the party. Based on all the threads I have read so far, I believe I may be on the top tier of oil consuming engines. I own a 2002 e46 330. Since I bought the car used about 3 years ago with 129k on the clock, I've only used mobile 1 0w40 ll01 and premium gas. I never really paid attention since I bought it, but I figured I needed to add a quart every maybe 2,000 miles. Since then, the consumption has shot straight up in the last year. My engine currently consumes a quart of oil every 80-100 miles and the odd part is there is no smoke at wot or at any time, even during startup. The only indication that something is wrong is carbon/water spray from exhaust during startup. There is a nice splatter of it behind the car on the garage floor when starting it every morning. To fix the problem I replaced the ofhg, vc gasket, vanos seals, vanos oil line, oil pan gasket and ccv, stopped engine braking(downshifting at higher rpms), all within a couple of months and no change in consumption. I've been reading a lot of threads about engine flushing and decarbonizing as a last ditch effort before replacing my engine. For my plan of attack I am currently running 1 ½ quart atf in the crank case and a fuel injector cleaner in the fuel tank at each fill up with some e85 hoping it's more corrosive properties will help clean, and maybe produce a little more power. I am running this for about 100-200 miles, then doing liquid moly flush, then the dino, seafoam, atf mix a couple times, and installing a catch can. On the dino, seafoam, atf mix, what weight and brand dino oil should I use?
For dino oil, I`ve always used Castrol GTX, 10W-30. I would not recommend driving around with ATF in your crankcase, it will dilute the remaining mix, which may or may not be dangerous to your engine`s health....I just add it for 25-30 minutes and run the engine at a fast idle before draining everything and adding fresh oil and filter.
I wouldn`t bother with the Seafoam, myself, but that`s your choice.

What do your plugs look like when you pull them out ? Are they a uniform color/condition ?
 
#124 · (Edited)
Hey guys,

Happy New Year!

I'm alive and well! I sure miss hanging Around here, but it feels odd since I still have a crappy Altima. I miss my BMW a lot, but boy, the cost of owning my Altima for the last 20 months is about $100 in parts. In that same time my ZHP needed $3000 in parts! But I still work on BMWs on the side, just did some E46 work last week. Working on them is so easy and second nature to me, I love the platform.

Just so those who want to know can get some answers, the car, when I sold it had 215k miles or so and still used oil, but not as much. But in my cars case, I think it was too far gone to eliminate the oil usage completely. The guy I sold it to had me work on it a handful of times, but he treated it poorly and smoked in it to boot. He didn't empty the can like he should, but it still used about a qt every 2000 miles. What finally helped was using Royal Purple oil in addition to the catch can. My wife has a newer jeep with the 5.7 hemi (16 spark plugs!) and I find it burns a qt and a half per 5000 miles with Castrol, valve line or Penzoil synthetics. With Royal Purple it doesn't burn a drop.

The bottom line is, if your car burns oil, you will likely always burn some. The catch can didn't "fix" the problem, but it did help. I'll check back to see if any of you have additional questions and try and answer them,

Fast Bob, good to see you are still around man, hope all is well!
 
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