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Glass rubber cover, windshield & rear window (E39)

431K views 365 replies 162 participants last post by  stephenc59 
#1 · (Edited)
I've notice on my 2001 530i that the rubber COVER around the windshield is drying out and has cracks perpendicular to the windshield. Near as I can tell, it does not leak.

Also, the rubber gasket/seal around the rear window is looking about the same. In fact, the two upper corners have pretty much dried out and cracked off.

Yeah, I know pics would help but I'll get those up later.

How is everyone elses holding up? Any cracking at all? Hmm, I wonder if I have any recourse with BMWNA...most likely not but there is no way these should be failing on a 5-year old car with under 70k on it, IMO.
 
#306 ·
Replaced mine over the weekend (2002 530i). First get the windshield moulding trim seal (front) p/n 51318159784. Mine was very ugly and I was determined to have it replaced. Take the old one out. You will need a lot of patience especially when all the gunk starts to get into your hands. The top portion is the hardest one to get out, but you should be able to figure out on how to get it out. Once it's out, clean very good the the area where the new one will go. Wet the new seal with soapy water and it will go very easy into the channel.

I was real proud of myself after that. Took me 3 hours (I was taking my time though not really in-a-hurry).
 
#307 ·
Finally did mine today, I had bought the replacement back in May and just never got around to it.
Piece of cake, took 5 min to get the old one out and about 1/2 hour to put the new one in. As others have said, the sides go in really easy, the top is the hard part, but just be patient and lube it up well, lube and push, lube and push :angel:
I used undiluted liquid car wash soap, same thing I use when I clay the paint. I would recommend slightly angling the trim towards the glass to get it started. I lined up the left corner first, did the left side and got the top started on that side, then lined up the right top corner and did that side and the top last.

It looks SO much better!! :thumbup:
 
#308 ·
cracked rotting molding

I also have cracked rotting molding around my front windshield of my 2004 BMW Z4.. I see the other posts about this problem that seems very common. Did anybody have any luck in BMW taking care of the problem for them? This clearly is a defect on their part. I understand that most of you are repalcing yourself but I still think they should do something about it. I also have a 2007 530xi which is fine, hopefully they corrected the problem for later year models??
 
#309 ·
Stopped by BMW to get a quote on getting this fixed... the "Cowl" needs to be replaced as well... when the service tech was done smoking his calculator, the total job - because he said with my model, they have to remove the windshield would be almost $600... I just shook my head. The "U" shaped rubber molding was (if I recall) $67 and the "Cowl" was $127... everything else was labor, tax, etc...

I'm a little torqued over this because BMW knew, or knew soon thereafter production started that the rubber molding installed on these vehicles decayed faster than they normally should - and should have offered a free replacement. I say "should have" but we all know how that goes...

Nevertheless, $600 to replace a windshield molding and the "Cowl" costing that much is insane... I'll be taking this to my Indie...
 
#313 ·
Oh, the rear cover is fine although the upper corners are just starting to show just a hint of splitting/cracking....
 
#314 ·
I replaced the front windshield cover this morning. As noted in McCandless' original DIY post, the top part is hardest to insert and should be done first to make sure the cover is aligned on the top corners.
I didn't have to use lacquer thinner since this part mostly dried up in my car - But I used a handheld vacuum cleaner, a wet rag wrapped around a flat screw driver and at other times, around a plastic chopstic :), a hook tool, and the plastic handle of a large screwdriver. I also used part of my 160 lbs weight to press the cover on top of the windshield (I stood on the fender and lower area of the windshield - this is not an advice, do it at your own risk).

Thanks all for showing and convincing that this is a simple DIY.
 
#315 ·
530i Windshield molding Solved

Thanks guys ans gals, this forum saved me about $200. BMW dealer said they had to remove the windshield in the rear to replace the molding. NOT even close. Called Pro Glass in Alpharetta GA and they came and replaced the rotting molding in 20 minutes for $75. I watched him do it then i did the front all by myself because it was getting bad as well. Thanks for the posts. parts for front and back will cost about $100.
 
#316 ·
I finally replaced the trim for my e60. What a pain in the rear! It's so easy if you know how to do it. My next attempt (if I keep the car that long) will only take 5-10min.

tips for the next person doing the front top (windshield cover). when installing the new one, insert the trim about 10 inches from the very left, then slide it all the way to the left. Then insert the other end of the trim 10 inches from the far right, then slide it all the way to the right. the rest of the trim will be bulging out, but just slowly work it in.

I started on one side, but when I got to the end of the other side, I couldn't get it to go in. took me 1 hr to finally figure it out.

sorry about the explanation, it's kinda hard to explain. But thanks for the DIY, saved me $$. :thumbup:
 
#318 ·
Thank you for all these suggestions, I am new to the forum and I would like to get some help finding this part. I have no leaks but the top rubber cover on my windshield is cracking and pieces are falling off.

After reading all your postings I searched online for the part to see if i can find it cheaper than the dealership, i found one but I just want to make sure it is the right one for my year and model: is it called "windshield molding frame front"? I'm guessing is just only the top strip, for the price ($25).

Also, would that be the only part i'll have to change in the windshield?

Thank you so much, the dealership told me I have to remove the windshield, from what I can see here I don't.
 
#319 ·
Thank you for all these suggestions, I am new to the forum and I would like to get some help finding this part. I have no leaks but the top rubber cover on my windshield is cracking and pieces are falling off.

After reading all your postings I searched online for the part to see if i can find it cheaper than the dealership, i found one but I just want to make sure it is the right one for my year and model: is it called "windshield molding frame front"? I'm guessing is just only the top strip, for the price ($25).

Also, would that be the only part i'll have to change in the windshield?

Thank you so much, the dealership told me I have to remove the windshield, from what I can see here I don't.
These are dealer OEM parts. Look at realoem.com for the parts and part numbers. The top and sides are one piece. You will have to remove the triangular pieces at the bottom to get the trim molding out. If those are rotting out, you should get them too.
 
#321 ·
Well, I just replaced the front windshield cover. This is replacement #2 for me. I guess we'll see how long it holds up. I also replaced the lower windshield cover piece...the one that the windshield wipers are housed in. Finally, the two lower triangular corner pieces were also replaced. In a nutshell, the windshield once again has a fresh clean look to it.

My cover installed rather easily. The corners are the big pain. I installed one corner first plus a bit of cover and then stretched the cover to install the other corner. This was the hard part but after tugging and pulling back 'n forth, I did manage to get both corners seated properly. After that, it was matter of pushing the molding in with my fingers. Overall, I'd say it didn't take longer than 15 minutes.

The corner triangular pieces took a little longer because I didn't pay close enough attention to how they were installed when I removed them. If you are replacing these, I suggest you take some pictures and study them for a few minutes. These took much longer as I couldn't quite get them right or quite understand how they went in until I futzed with them for a spell.
 
#322 ·
Newbee question please?

Thanks to everyone for all the excellent E39 information. I am in the middle of replacing the REAR windshield cover on a 1997 528i. Everything went very smoothly except that I can't get the top middle to lay flat. It seems inserted into the groove, but the back flange is not below the top edge of the groove and the cover is not flat and parallel with the body (make sense)? If I run my hand from the roof towards the bumper across the cover, I feel a few mm of cover material sticking up. Might anyone else have had this issue? Please advise? I inserted the right corner and edge, then the left corner and edge and these and the sides went in great. The only issue is about a foot long section in the middle. Is this typical? It seems almost there, but definitely different from the sides and top edges which are laying perfectly flat, and all the outside edge material sits inside the groove.

:(

Thanks in advance for all your experience.
FHP
 
#325 ·
Thanks to everyone for all the excellent E39 information. I am in the middle of replacing the REAR windshield cover on a 1997 528i. Everything went very smoothly except that I can't get the top middle to lay flat. It seems inserted into the groove, but the back flange is not below the top edge of the groove and the cover is not flat and parallel with the body (make sense)? If I run my hand from the roof towards the bumper across the cover, I feel a few mm of cover material sticking up. Might anyone else have had this issue? Please advise? I inserted the right corner and edge, then the left corner and edge and these and the sides went in great. The only issue is about a foot long section in the middle. Is this typical? It seems almost there, but definitely different from the sides and top edges which are laying perfectly flat, and all the outside edge material sits inside the groove.

:(

Thanks in advance for all your experience.
FHP
It isn't in the groove fully. If I were you, I'd keep working on pushing it further in. If you feel that you done all you can, then I think you might have one of the following problems:

(1) obstruction in the window channel preventing full seating
(2) your cover is "bad" in this section (damaged, bent, bad)

I think I would try to carefully remove the cover and do some investigation on both the cover and the window channel. Mark the spots on both the channel and cover where you have issues so you can make comparisons.
 
#328 ·
Sorry, I don't recall what the channel looks like...likely just a metal springy piece that expands but I just don' remember.
 
#329 · (Edited)
First I have to say sorry for bringing up an old thread.....
I have had this problem three times on two of the Bimmers I own, my M5 (2000) and M3 (2004). Both have shown this natural rubber rot problem on the windshield. Now my M Roadster is showing this around the window seals.... so in reality its twice on the 5, once on the 3 and now the Roadster. GRRRR. I have used Gummi Fledge for the last two years, and it helps a lot, but in the end it does not prevent the eventual rot, even on new parts.
Now in fairness, I do live in a high heat area but I do park the cars in my garage so they don't bake in the sun.
Now to the point, replacment of the parts is not that hard nor is it that expensive (if you DIY), just time consuming for the DIYer and a general PIA to have to do it considering what these cars are and cost. It just shouldn't happen in my book. As someone else pointed out 'a POS 1968 car has better rubber!' That's disturbing that another car company makes better seal componet than BMW and it does not rot! Further, I'm disgusted that BMW won't take responsibility for it and repair it AT NO CHARGE to their costumer base, mostly because it IS a faulty material part in the first place. The slap in the face is dealing with BMW.... If you have them do it they charge four times the amount of what the job is worth, I've even had the local dealer tell me they would have to remove the windscreen. Anybody that has DIY on the E39 body knows that is a flat down fib. Don't get me going on the part mark up they charge! Better to buy it from a out source.
OK... I vented, off my soap box.... Has anyone ever had success with BMW, as pointed out in the earlier part of this thread, with getting a positive response. The point that BMW has not had enough complaints on this issue is beyond silly. Yes, I have complained and called and written. If you go to any older 5 series and look at the windscreen, 8 out of 10 will shown this problem. How can BMW ignor that? Even Japanese car companies goodwill parts on car long out of warrenty standing, I know this for a fact! I would certainly expect a high end German company to stand up and good will a $30 faulty part! Audi does, VW does, Mercedes Benz does, so what's up BMW?
Again, if anyone has had success with this issue please share the news as I'm sure it would be helpful to other owners that have this issue. If not, I fear we will be fending out hard earned monies on a worthless part that will fail in the end.
 
#330 · (Edited)
Just did the front moldings/covers (did it dry no soap ) easy as pie just use a shop vac and mineral spirits to clean channel and line up new molding ,I started at top rt corner and then went down side then other side just use the heel of your hand and the top pops right in ! NOW I need to know for SURE if the rear works the same way? ( without removing glass ) problem is I got a small leak in rear window BUT my sunroof broke ,mechanism, so the sunroof is not closing tightly ? so is the leak the sunroof or the rear glass???????
 
#331 ·
Mark5,
Unfortunately, if you wish to replace the rear seal it is a one piece.... so removal of the window seems to be the norm as far as I understand and can see. I can't say this is true on all models as I have never done the rear seal. Unlike the front 'cover' it is a true seal and by what I can tell by ALLDATA and RealOEM.com it is a wrapped seal that emcompasses the glass. I also recall reading this somewhere in this thread or elsewhere in the forum as I was going to tackle mine as well because my corner seals had gotten brittle. I used Gummi Phledge instead and got them pliable again. It does plauge US E39 owners with the natural rubber rotting. The front is the worst, but the corners in the rear also suffer the rot. Gummi Phledge is a good preventative to the rot if you can get it local. If not you can get it here http://www.1z-usa.com/ , really worth the invest.
Next on the front seal.... I hope you won't run into probs down the line since you used mineral spirt to clean with, it will dissolve the sealent on the winndshield and break it down over the long haul. It may also cause a discoloration or breakdown of the laminate shield within the safety glass. Hopefully you just used it sparingly on a soft rag and wiped up excess quickly. Just giving you a 'possible' heads up and hope nothing will occure. For future I would recommed a little Dawn/water 1 - 10 ratio in a spritz bottle for clean up with soft brush followed by clean water wash. Use a little tire mount cream to install seals and wipe excess. Drys clean and won't damage paint or componet. Next apply fresh wax to area to protect paint finish.
On the leak.... it may be possible that it may be a drain hose from the sunroof casset. Repair is easy, but time consuming. You might notice a water stain on the C pillar, rear seat deck or headliner area that may look like a rear windshield leak if it is in the upper corners. If it runs down the inner windshield glass on to the seat deck, then it might be a glass seal leak indeed. I hope not. You can check this with a friend by SLOWLY running some water on the suspect area(s) while you are on the inside and your friend trickles the water from the outside. If it doesn't show around the glass, then move to the sunroof seal and allow water to flow into the water channels on the side. They are designed to run a SMALL amount of water past the felt seal, so don't flood it or you will get a leak! Remember this is for test purpose so do it slowly. Think like a gentle rain ;) just in case it is not sealing properly. From the inside you should know if it is leaking from the drain hose. It may be possible that the drain cup and hose may be plugged with junk or mold and causeing the channel to flood. This is an easy fix if that is the case with some compressed air. If the hose needs to be replaced.... well that is more timely and will require the removal of the headliner and possible the casset itself to get at the drain cup. The set up is very similar to the E46 body so that should give you an idea of what to expect if you have to do that job.
In the end repairing right is the way to go if you have the coin and the time, but there is the inexpensive way to go as far as a get me by..... Silicon sealent. If you're careful you can do a nice job and it won't look to bad. I do mention this as it is a temporary fix, and I have seen some ugly attemps at doing it this way and in the long run is harder to clean up when you can fix it right.
I hope I helped and gave you some ideas,
Cheers, ABB
 
#332 ·
i just did mine today, i went to auto glass shop and he was about to start removing the whole glass.
actualy lot of auto glass shops refused to do it judt because they worried of damaging the glass.
thanks to you guys for all the information that you have provided, i explained to the tech person how to do it. at first i was worried if the glass brakes, but it was very easy it took less than 20mns.
they also install for me AC schnitzer spoiler(OEM ofcourse), splash gards front (R,L) all that for $80.
yesterday i installeed M5 mirrors (OEM of course) what a difference, and i installed door handels lights. i will take some pictures soon.
again i just want to say thank you all for sharing your knoowldge with all of us.
 
#333 ·
Windshield seal

I'm embarrassed that my car is less than 5 years old and the seal gives it the appearance of a much older vehicle. My research shows that it will cost around $300 and BMW won't cover it. I sent an email to Leonora.Vlaovich@bmwna.com and received an autoreply that my message was not delivered due to "too many hops". :( I think I'm going to "arrange a crack to be fixed" in my windshield, which is covered by insurance. That should get me a new seal.
 
#335 ·

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#336 ·
Crappy rear weatherstripping seal

I own a 2008 bmw 528i. The rear weatherstripping is almost completely gone. While driving down the road you can literally watch chunks fly off. I have been quoted from $500-$1200 to fix this. Its ridiculous that there are this many people with the same problem.

Today i took a shot and called another glass company and i am getting a new complete rear glass with seal for $275 bc the guy feels sorry for me bc of all the problems i have had.
 
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