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Today on my Bimmer I...

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819K views 11K replies 438 participants last post by  tomwas 
#1 ·
ive seen this type of thread on my toyota forum and it ends up being good.:thumbup:

anyways i'll start i guess, today i cleaned the wii out of my car and attempted to put my grilles in:)
 
#336 · (Edited)
Put my newer replacement ignition coils in, ordered a new blower motor cause mine is dying and its cold.

AND drove 160 miles without leaving town!
 
#352 ·
New heater blower install, oil change, and replace my hood emblem. Now I have to fix the short in my truck wire harness....again
 
#354 · (Edited)
I replaced my rear shock mounts with the aluminum RSM kit from Rogue Engineering. They rock. They are so much more beefy than the OEM BMW parts. The Rogue RSMs also came with seriously stout shock tower reinforcement plates with the mounting hardware welded to them for a bottom-mount design - major bonus. No more removing the trunk panels to change shocks or bushings! Since this was my first time doing this job, it took me about 1.5 hours. Now that I'm familiar with everything, I could probably do the job in under 45 minutes. I was also relieved to discover that my shock towers have no signs of damage or abuse.

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What I removed from my car today. Since my car has 95k miles on the clock, I'm guessing these are the original RSMs that were installed at the factory. This is further corroborated by the "98" stamped into the rubber (same number as the model year of my car). Gaskets? What gaskets?

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This is what went back into my car. They are made of solid aluminum, and are MUCH stronger than the stamped steel OEM units, especially in conjunction with the ultra-thick shock tower reinforcement plates that came in the kit (not pictured). Comparing photos online, the Rogue Engineering RSMs look much thicker than even those made by Ground Control. I should not have to think about RSMs for a long time to come.
 
#355 ·
This is what went back into my car. They are made of aluminum, and are MUCH stronger than the stamped steel OEM units, especially in conjunction with the ultra-thick shock tower reinforcement plates from Rogue Engineering (not pictured). Comparing photos online, the Rogue Engineering RSMs look much thicker than even those made by Ground Control. I should not have to think about RSMs for a long time to come.
OOO fancy how much do those run?
 
#356 · (Edited)
The kit costs $100.00, but it includes literally everything you need for a complete installation. Here's what came in the kit:

* Two (2) Rogue Engineering 6061-T6 CNC, Anodized aluminum rear shock mounts
* Four (4) Shore A 60 Rubber Bushings (30% stiffer than OEM, but still good on the street)
* Two (2) 303 Stainless Steel Bushing Spacers
* Four (4) 303 Stainless Steel Washers
* Four (4) Yellow Zinc plated M8 serrated lock nuts
* Two (2) Shock Tower Reinforcement Assemblies (more than twice as thick as BMW OEM, with 10.9 hardware welded for bottom-mount)
* Two (2) factory gaskets

So yeah, they are a bit more pricey, but they are really strong and can also be rebuilt very cheaply if I ever need to replace the rubber bushings (OEM style cannot be rebuilt). Another reason why I went with these over the "repair shop" style RSMs is that these are strong enough for track duty, but compliant enough for the street. By the time I added up the cost of the "repair shop" RSMs, plus reinforcement plates, plus gaskets, plus hardware, the Rogue Engineering RSMs weren't that much more. They are also vastly superior in strength than the steel "repair shop" style RSMs, and have the bottom-mount design to boot. It was a no-brainer, as far as I'm concerned.
 
#357 ·
WOW those sound like a great deal. When mine die i'm a getting those:thumbup:
 
#361 ·
I have some questions for you:

1) How long did it take you?

2) Did you have to open the coolant drain plug on the engine block? If so, how did that go?

3) Did you use RTV or silicone sealant on the housing gasket, or did you rely on the gasket alone to seal.

Due to a thermostat that's sticking open in cold weather, I'm going to be replacing my T-stat and housing in the next few weeks, too.
 
#362 ·
1) A little over an hour. ( didn't have the clutch fan tool, had to improvise)

2) Nope, didn't do that.

3) Sh!t, I didn't even think of that till you ask.:tsk: As of now, I am relying on the gasket seal itself.

Now I have to re-do it this weekend. :bawling: I will most likely use RTV this time.
 
#365 ·
1) A little over an hour. ( didn't have the clutch fan tool, had to improvise)

2) Nope, didn't do that.

3) Sh!t, I didn't even think of that till you ask.:tsk: As of now, I am relying on the gasket seal itself.

Now I have to re-do it this weekend. :bawling: I will most likely use RTV this time.
Mine has been improvised on far too many times, I'm going to have to buy a new one with the tool soon, or switch to electric, I dunno how many more times I can get it off without chewing it too pieces.
 
#363 · (Edited)
Based on the reading I've done, I don't think everyone uses RTV or silicone on the gasket. I could be wrong, but I was under the impression that you only need it if you have pitting and/or surface imperfections where the gasket meets the head. Not sure though. It's probably better to use sealant for the sake of peace of mind.

How much coolant did you spill after draining the radiator? Does draining the radiator empty out most of the coolant up high, thereby allowing one to remove the thermostat without spilling?
 
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