had the wiring checked over by a fitter, i think its a internal short =[ i just got a new amp from the supplier cause the last one did that same thing =[
Haha no. Didn't even shop around for them, I use pelican parts for a lot of the random stuff I buy. When I got my filter and plugs I threw these into the order too.
Today I missed the delivery of my K&N CAI... Now I have to wait til Tuesday. Oh well makes for a great Wednesday afternoon project. Also ordered my Schnitzer strut bar.
I replaced my rear shock mounts with the aluminum RSM kit from Rogue Engineering. They rock. They are so much more beefy than the OEM BMW parts. The Rogue RSMs also came with seriously stout shock tower reinforcement plates with the mounting hardware welded to them for a bottom-mount design - major bonus. No more removing the trunk panels to change shocks or bushings! Since this was my first time doing this job, it took me about 1.5 hours. Now that I'm familiar with everything, I could probably do the job in under 45 minutes. I was also relieved to discover that my shock towers have no signs of damage or abuse.
What I removed from my car today. Since my car has 95k miles on the clock, I'm guessing these are the original RSMs that were installed at the factory. This is further corroborated by the "98" stamped into the rubber (same number as the model year of my car). Gaskets? What gaskets?
This is what went back into my car. They are made of solid aluminum, and are MUCH stronger than the stamped steel OEM units, especially in conjunction with the ultra-thick shock tower reinforcement plates that came in the kit (not pictured). Comparing photos online, the Rogue Engineering RSMs look much thicker than even those made by Ground Control. I should not have to think about RSMs for a long time to come.
This is what went back into my car. They are made of aluminum, and are MUCH stronger than the stamped steel OEM units, especially in conjunction with the ultra-thick shock tower reinforcement plates from Rogue Engineering (not pictured). Comparing photos online, the Rogue Engineering RSMs look much thicker than even those made by Ground Control. I should not have to think about RSMs for a long time to come.
The kit costs $100.00, but it includes literally everything you need for a complete installation. Here's what came in the kit:
* Two (2) Rogue Engineering 6061-T6 CNC, Anodized aluminum rear shock mounts
* Four (4) Shore A 60 Rubber Bushings (30% stiffer than OEM, but still good on the street)
* Two (2) 303 Stainless Steel Bushing Spacers
* Four (4) 303 Stainless Steel Washers
* Four (4) Yellow Zinc plated M8 serrated lock nuts
* Two (2) Shock Tower Reinforcement Assemblies (more than twice as thick as BMW OEM, with 10.9 hardware welded for bottom-mount)
* Two (2) factory gaskets
So yeah, they are a bit more pricey, but they are really strong and can also be rebuilt very cheaply if I ever need to replace the rubber bushings (OEM style cannot be rebuilt). Another reason why I went with these over the "repair shop" style RSMs is that these are strong enough for track duty, but compliant enough for the street. By the time I added up the cost of the "repair shop" RSMs, plus reinforcement plates, plus gaskets, plus hardware, the Rogue Engineering RSMs weren't that much more. They are also vastly superior in strength than the steel "repair shop" style RSMs, and have the bottom-mount design to boot. It was a no-brainer, as far as I'm concerned.
Mine has been improvised on far too many times, I'm going to have to buy a new one with the tool soon, or switch to electric, I dunno how many more times I can get it off without chewing it too pieces.
Based on the reading I've done, I don't think everyone uses RTV or silicone on the gasket. I could be wrong, but I was under the impression that you only need it if you have pitting and/or surface imperfections where the gasket meets the head. Not sure though. It's probably better to use sealant for the sake of peace of mind.
How much coolant did you spill after draining the radiator? Does draining the radiator empty out most of the coolant up high, thereby allowing one to remove the thermostat without spilling?
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